Milan Menswear Show Review SS14

As the sun sets on another LC:M for this season, its time to move out and move on, setting up camp in another style Capital this time it’s the turn of Italy’s Financial Capital, Milano. For Spring Summer 2014 the Italian houses seem to be in mixed moods, maybe reflective of the country wide mood, as the recession rumbles on and uncertainty is the mood du jour. So first we have some young blood who seem to be making waves in the right direction Les Homme. Continuing where London, left off and reflective of a number of their designers, Tom Notte and Bart Vandebosch of Les Homme blurred the lines of casual and formal and teamed leather t-shirts with suiting, formalised the shorts and bomber jacket all the time keeping the primary colour palette dark and sombre but highly wearable.

Calvin Klein Collection

Calvin Klein Collection

For Calvin Klein Collection, Italo Zucchelli, was all about 40 shades of blue, rather then the grey, which several of his fellow designers seemed to relish. Every hue of blue must surely have been used at some point during the show, offering, as always, his minimal, futuristic take on menswear.  Whether it be simply Navy, or Sky blue, Yves Klein blue, no relative, to Midnight blue they were all present as Zucchelli celebrates a decade at the helm of the good ship SS Calvin Klein.

Vivienne Westwood

Vivienne Westwood

Now as we mentioned in the London Show Reviews, I’ve sort the views of a number of Fashion industry soothsayers, for their opinion on their key shows and first of today’s viewpoints comes from British GQ’s Associate Editor, Mr Robert Johnston,  who has forgotten more about Fashion and style then many people will EVER know.

“I loved Vivienne Westwood. Fresh, fun and wearable while still being classic Westwood. The Indian prints took you to a chic Goan beach house mixed with the drama of a white evening cape for a modern mix of east meets west.”

Then onto an Italian Family Dynasty, who are hopefully putting the sad events of this year behind them to concentrate on more happier times. Missoni, who like many designers this season are opting for a more conservative, maybe even recession proof collection. Obviously it goes without saying the show wasn’t without the unmistakable family pattern evident on many of their key pieces, but this was made all the more wearable by mixing it with a much sober palette of navy, beige and sage.

Prada

Prada

And as almost to act as a colour interlude from all the darker tones of Milanese Designers, Prada should present to us their collection for SS14, but I will leave this to the more then capable Dan Rookwood, Style Director of Mens Health UK to expand upon.

“Every season the one show everyone expects the most from is Prada – and every season the fashion powerhouse more than meets those expectations. Prada’s HQ had once again been reinvented. This time we were transported back in time to a steamy 1950s tropicana scene. I got a sense of pre-Revolution Havana when the mob were running the casinos. All the models had been spritzed to look like they were glistening with sweat, mirroring some of those squished into the front row. The tiered seating was aqua blue like a swimming pool and the ceiling was sky blue like the, erm, sky. The models walked around the pool edge past a painted set of sunsets and palms. The colour palette was quite moody and muddy for a summer collection – burgundy, bottle green, khaki and navy – but was enlivened by bold, colourful Hawaiian print buttoned-up shirts and standout leather briefcases and overnight bags, festooned with tropical patterns. Trend-wise, we’re looking at a wider leg trouser worn with a casually tied canvas belt; generously-lapelled jackets with the sleeves turned up; and 50s-style shirts. The universal verdict: yet another Prada triumph.”

Gucci

Gucci

So from one great Stylish man to another, this time Fashion Director of American Esquire, the ever dapper and unflappable Nick Sullivan, give us his take on the iconic house of Gucci designed by Frida Giannini.

“Gucci was a breath of fresh air for me this time round. The glitzy side was played down in favour of a comfortable mix of romantic print and technical sportswear. Highlights were floral print cotton suits and a couple of others with simple dot prints reminiscent of pocket squares… The navy ones got my name on it. On the sports side I loved the bright yellow sailing top with its technical bonded seams and sone of the texhnical looking pants. To me the combination of romance and sport was unlikely but the sheer unadulterated quality of everything made it work just great.” 

Couldn’t have put it better myself fellas!

Fendi

Fendi

Italy are known for their great family Dynasties from the Borgias, to the Guccis, The Medicis to the Fendis and the latter house offered as a HUGELY wearable collection for SS14 to the point that I challenge you not to find a least one outfit that you wouldn’t like to purchase. The colour palette, the cut, everything about this collection just screamed WEAR ME ! From casual chic to fresh formal, it owned the Fendi man a complete wardrobe from dusk til dawn.

 

 

Nothing more, nothing less, Just William

Foto 7-318335_CJust William
is a new British brand with a discerning eye for the
details, that creates exceptional products for travel and
work, for an astute customer. The “younger brother” to the older
more established luxury brand, William & Son, who wished
to engage with a younger, more urban clientele. The brand
comprises a carefully selected leather collection of 11 styles in
an array of colours, including a 48 hour bag, document case and
wallet, and focuses on quality, refreshed seasonally but not
trend-led. Timeless elegance is fundamental to the core branded
range, demonstrating craftsmanship and an eye for detail, texture
and pattern. Each leather product is carefully crafted in a small
family workshop, using skills passed down from generation to
generation. The collection uses 100% vegetable-tanned leather from
the rolling hills of southern Spain, Italian palladium brushed
nickel hardware and “the Rolls Royce of zippers” – Riri of
Switzerland. Vegetable-tanned leather is tanned using tannin and
other ingredients found in vegetable matter, such as tree bark
prepared in bark mills, and other natural sources. To compliment
the collection, they have gathered together a select range of
accessories in cashmere, silk and wool, including scarves, pocket
squares and bow ties to finish any look. Just William Photo 2-317310_C  

Pearly King – A proper Cockney knees up, well not really.

Please don’t expect this brand to be all mother of pearl buttons and Cockney East End inspired, nothing could be further from the truth when it comes to Pearly King. They strived to create a timeless, masculine collection by delving in to a time where true icons rode motorcycle and braved the wilderness! Pearly King have become students of these old school pioneers, recreating pieces that embody their rebellious, carefree lifestyle.

Creating a wardrobe that will instil a brooding sense of confidence in any man, featuring luxurious leathers, robust tweed jackets and t-shirts that have survived a life time. The look is very wearable, easy but with an air of rustic elegance. Garments that have survived the rough trials of time to become heirlooms.

For Summer 2013 Pearly King have focused on two main influences, Rockabilly culture and class and style of the Riviera. The fusion of these two contrasting looks has resulted in a collection that offers a rebellious yet refined look, featuring vintage inspired work wear fabrics drenched in sun bleached Riviera hues.

The brand have delved into a rich archive of 1950’s drag car racing culture and old pictures of The Rolling Stones in Cannes. This has yielded a range that embodies a mentality that is all about high rolled sleeves on printed chambray shirts and sun bleached – super soft vintage jerseys matched with jeans whose only wash has come from diving off the side of a luxury yacht, you know the look, think Mick and the boys of yesteryear having fun on their holidays.

Pearly King Summer 2013

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Hey ! Nothing Fishy about this, OK well maybe a little – Fish Hair Products

Screen Shot 2013-06-20 at 08.43.56I first came across the Fish brand and Paul Burfoot the man behind the business in the late 90’s when I was just starting out and assisting Mr Tom Stubbs, fellow blogger and raconteur. At that time Fish was a trendy hair salon, way before the trend in barbers shops made a comeback, nestled right in the heart of, London’s Soho, it had and still has a reputation for cutting edge styles and quality cuts combined with a nice relaxed, down to earth vibe. The Salon got it’s, how can I put this, unusual name because 26 years ago when an former Soho sex shop was being converted into a brand new hair salon, Burfoot discovered it used to be an old fishmongers……and so the ‘Fish’ brand was born.

To celebrate its twentieth anniversary, the salon launched a special limited edition Platinum range of Fish styling products with a new and distinct fragrance.

Screen Shot 2013-06-20 at 08.39.19Whatever you’re up to, day or night, the Platinum Edition Fishfingers Medium Hold Shape Defining Wax will hold your style in place. Simply apply a small amount of wax to dry or towel dried hair and massage through. Then simply mould, sculpt, define and shape – whatever your desired style.

Screen Shot 2013-06-20 at 08.39.36If you’re looking for the ultimate hair texturiser, look no further than the Platinum Edition Fishshape Firm Hold Texturising Cream. More subtle than a wax, this cream is ideal for defining short to mid-length hair and creating choppy, chunky styles. It will hold your style 24/7 and won’t dry hard like other styling products.

 

A Gentleman and a Scholar, Patrick Grant

PATRICK 01

The subject of today’s LC:M textual conversation has incredibly, his fingers in MANY pies, in fact the hardest thing about this entire interview is where do you start when discussed the sickeningly talented Patrick Grant. Do you begin with E.Tautz, one of the brands he is Creative Director of, that he showed earlier this week during London Collections: Men or the other one, the Savile Row institution that is Norton & Sons. Or his many collaborations, a truly inspired partnership with Barbour for Autumn 13, which we’ll discuss later in the season or his venture, Hammond & Co, joining the expanding ranks of the Designers Portfolio at High Street retailer Debenhams. Not to mention his blossoming media career as a judge on the BBC TV show the Great British sewing Bee ????

Surprisingly though, Grant doesn’t come from a particularly Design background, or even creative, some might say. He has a Bachelors degree in Materials Science & Engineering, sorry what,  from Leeds University and Universite d’Orleans and a Masters in Business Administration from the University of Oxford. He lived and worked in five countries and in a number of different industries before the desire to follow a career in Menswear possessed him. Craftsmanship and a passion for old British brands lead him to Savile Row tailors Norton & Sons which he took over in 2005. Then in 2009 Patrick re-launched the historic British sporting and military tailoring house of E. Tautz as a men’s ready to wear collection.

He won the British Fashion Council’s Menswear Designer of the Year award in December 2010 for his work on E. Tautz. In 2012 he won the BFC’s Fashion Forward award and was shortlisted for Designer of the Year at the Scottish Fashion Awards and International Designer of the Year at the WGSN Global Fashion Awards.

If fact why don’t I shut up and let Mr Grant tell you about Supermodels flashing at him or the Davids all coming over for a Dinner party and well…. I’ll let him tell you. Enjoy.

If you could collaborate with one brand who would it be and why ?

One of the great British carmakers, either Bentley or Rolls Royce. They’re a pretty rare blend of engineering excellence, craftsmanship, heritage and beautiful design.

 

Favourite hotel in the world ?

Lafayette House New York. A beautiful little brownstone, lovely old slightly rickety furniture, wonky floors, few but great staff, no reception or restaurant or gym or doorman. Feels like home.

 

If you could give your teenage self advice, what would it be ?

Sleep less, do more (do everything). When you get to 40 everything will start to creak.

 

In your words, describe the SS14 collection ?

Opulant, lengthy, shawly; the three ages of Edwardianism (the first one, the Teds, and the Peacock Revolution), central asian mens clothes, The Life of Birds. The Kandura.

 

What is you most memorable moment ?

Winning the Menswear Designer of the Year award at the BFA’s.

 

What track would always get you on the dance floor ? Blackout Crew – Put A Donk On It?

 

Who would do you ideal diner guests and why ?

David Ogilvy, David Niven, David Walliams, (anyone called David it seems).

Irreverent humorous Englishmen.

 

What piece of clothing best describes you ?

A well worn hiking boot.

 

What piece of style advise do you live by ?

To paraphrase Hemingway ‘Everyone has his own style, and there should be no rules about how style should function.’

 

What piece of clothing should everyman have in his wardrobe ?

A handmade grey flannel suit

 

If you could have invented anything what would it be ?

Air? That would be worth a few quid.

 

Who is your style icon ?

Jarvis Coker. Just splendid.

 

Tell us something no one else knows ?

A supermodel once tried to put me off on my final (victory clinching) question in a game of trivial pursuits by flashing her boobs. 

E.Tautz Autumn/Winter 2013

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E.Tautz Spring/Summer 2014

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