Brandwatch: Chinatown Market – An insight into Mike Cherman’s rapidly growing streetwear brand

Words by Daniel Ramsdale-Harris

Chinatown Market has seen a meteoric rise in the last couple of years, with the brand now global and reaching 400k followers on Instagram last week. Started by Mike Cherman, the brand encapsulates the spirit of Canal Street New York, with its comedic aesthetic.

And this is what really provides the unique selling point for the brand, not taking itself too seriously, hence the ‘bootleg’ name, which in turn offers comedic connection with consumers, creating an authentic and strong community.

Comedic fashion that’s disrupts, perhaps this is a new way in which brands can be distinctive, in an industry which is now undeniably not the niche likeonce before. It also further provides more evidence that streetwear is proving that avant-garde designs and high price points are no longer the sole drivers of desirability.

The comedic narrative is portrayed across all aspects of the brand, from product, to messaging and alignments. All good brands have distinctive assets. The Supreme box logo, the Palace Tri-Ferg logo, Chanel’s interlocking C’s. For China Town Market, it’s the smiley face.

Yes, I know what your thinking, we’ve seen it before. But the brand has the ability to tell strong narratives around symbols that people can relate too. A lot of product is almost a parody of the fashion industry, with bootleg inspired designs, designs that mock society and an abundance of culturally filled references.

Their armoury isn’t limited, however. It would be disrespectful to dismiss the design quality and attention to detail, with expertly executed reflective and UV designs, which again demonstrate the jovial nature of the company.

As with all streetwear brands that hit the mainstream, a wave of backlash arrives almost immediately. Mike Cherman came out and publicly criticised this, claiming that it’s small problem in the streetwear industry that people just don’t want brands to hit new heights.

Chinatown Market can be found in Urban Outfitters, BTSN, Slam Jam and most recently came over to the UK through END and ASOS. Without a doubt, this has been a key factor in increasing awareness and accessibility for fans outside the U.S and away from its regular drop production model.

production model that’s unique, with China Town producing all of their garments in their own design studio, a reason for their ability to drop new designs on a daily basis, which is also something that allows them to keep up with the speed of Instagram demands and Gen Z’s appetite for newness.

There’s currently no denying that China Town Market are one of the hottest brands right now. Recent collaborations with Puma and Converse continue to add more weight to the name, and that is something that I can only see growing.

I know where it’s at – All Saints Watches

Words by Isaac Perry

So much has recently been going on that it’s been hard to summarise what some of our favourites have been. So now we feel like it’s the right time to share some interesting news with you all! Allsaints have recently moved into the wrist wear business offering a

diverse collection of 20-piece range, which combines style, precision, performance, and attitude. From clothes to bags to fragrances and now watches, AllSaints offers a uniform without uniformity

Allsaints was founded in 1994 by Stuart Trevor and Kait Bolongaro, they began through the wholesale game selling to exclusive stores such as Harvey Nichols & Harrods but soon realised that they had their own identity and a brand which could go much further.

Allsaints aesthetic is totally rock n roll and this vibe gets people hooked onto the brand. They are known for their beautiful leather jackets as well as having the perfect layering pieces each winter. Though this year they have offered something different releasing a range of watches called The Untitled and Subtitled Collection.

This new avenue led Allsaints to the underground culture exploring subcultures using each watch to explore Urban landscapes around the world.

A Love Letter to its home City – Private White VC

Private White VC, as a brand, is incredibly proud of, not only, their British roots but the city they call home and where all of their beautiful pieces are produced. To celebrate this heraldic relationship and showcase some of their collection, amongst other Great British brands including Globetrotter, Bamford Watch Department, and Johnson’s of Elgin, Private White VC  have produced a short film created by Visionarism .  It was shot on location across central Manchester, along the canals of Ancoats, in Albert Square in view of the iconic Town Hall build in 1868, from within the Private White V.C. factory where all the brands garments are lovingly handmade.

Private White V.C. CEO James Eden, tell of;

“What’s the last thing that you truly cared about?  Looking back, I think about the city and our industry and how much it has changed, yet I find myself right back to where it all started… and that’s with the people. 

They’re the thinkers, the dreamers but most of they are the doers that work tirelessly to master every inch, angle and possibility regardless of the time and effort required to realise the vision; just at should be; authentic, traditional, progressive.

Yet still some will say it’s the slow way round but for us it’s the right way round. It’s all we’ve ever known. 

We’re the last remaining clothing factory in the world’s first industrial city. Over 100 years old embedded into the fabric of this great city. This is dedication. This is us”A celebration of the best of British design. 

ASK THE EXPERTS – THEIR FAVOURITE BRAND FOR AUTUMN 2019

It’s all good and well, me spouting on about how great this is or how wonderful that is, but sometimes you need to hear from the proverbial horse’s mouth. So as Autumn is pretty much upon us, no point in denying its onset any longer, we seek the counsel of three of the leading menswear buying experts around.

In the second of this season’s “Ask the experts” we sort the answer to the age old dilemma of “What brand are you most excited about for Autumn 2019?”

“We’ve been really excited about bringing-on Reese Cooper, one of the latest brands to launch on MR PORTER. After meeting Reese and seeing the FW19 collection back in January, I instantly wanted to introduce the brand to MR PORTER’s global audience. It’s quite rare to find a new designer with a collection that appeals to a broad age range; I can see younger guys wearing his tee’s to a slightly older customer wearing his high-quality plaid shirts or outwear pieces. The brand is also uninfluenced by trends or by what other dominant brands are doing.”

George Archer, Buyer, MRPORTER.com

“ Bellerose we (and our customers) are loving this brand at the moment. Based in Antwerp they have a real knack of producing timeless pieces which are also pretty on trend too. Chore Jackets & soft corduroy over shirts are particular highlights this season.”

Pete Parry, Founder and Owner – Steranko

 


It would have to be Noon Goons – the LA-based streetwear brand, which draws on movements including surf, skate, punk and hip-hop culture. The A/W collection includes easy-to-wear slogan sweatshirts, window-pane check shirts and a statement tiger-print jacquard cardigan – perfect for revamping cold-weather wardrobes.”

Damien Paul’s (Head of Menswear, MATCHESFASHION.COM)

There’s more to Harry’s then this – Harry’s new Grooming range

Chilly winter mornings as we prepare for the clocks to go back, will cause the average Brit to spend an extra 24hours in bed over the colder months.

Now, we’ve all heard of Harry’s and how they’ve revolutionised the way we approach shaving and how we buy our shaving accoutrements. Plus the sterling work they have done in highlighting mental health, in particularly the desire state of male mental health provision. But, that’s not all Harry’s are all about, they are now an all encompassing, all purpose, answering all the grooming needs of all men with a brand spanking new grooming range.

So, you can forget sluggish mornings and the snooze button, Harry’s NEW FIG SHOWER GEL which will give you a glimpse of fresh summer air on a beach in Santorini – the perfect refreshing, wake up call to motivate you to start your day.

Harry’s are bringing the enjoyment back into your morning, starting your day right with an energising and rich formula, of fruits and spices, which bloom as the foam amps up, provides a blast of fig, blood orange and cardamom, that make each shower feel (or at least smell) like a holiday to the Aegean Islands.

Plus, a 2 IN 1 SHAMPOO & CONDITIONER Provides a balanced clean with everyday hydration. This unique formula cleans deep but doesn’t strip your hair of natural oils. It lathers richly and is formulated with 0% sulphates, parabens, and dyes.

Then we have a hair styling product for whatever way your hair is feeling on any given day. This taming cream both enhances natural texture and moisturises. By acting as a mild conditioner for curly, coarse, or thick hair, it helps keep unruly hair smooth and in check. Bonus: It’s so lightweight you’ll forget it’s even there.
Or TEXTURIZING PUTTY spruces up your natural look with immediate control and lasting definition. This supple putty adds a healthy dose of texture to help keep your hair tidy yet full of volume. Its flexibility lets you easily shape and reshape throughout the day and lastly the SCULPTING GEL. This locks in bold, sharp styles without flaking or fading throughout the day. But unlike potentially harsh hair gels, this alcohol-free formulation doesn’t dry or damage hair in the process.