CLOTHES MAKE THE MAN

Words By Randa Zaid

Let’s talk about sex. And why it shouldn’t have anything to do with skincare.

Men’s skin is around 20 – 25 per cent thicker than women’s skin. It contains more collagen and elastin and tends to produce more oil due to the amount of testosterone in the male body. But women also have certain levels of this hormone, it’s not exclusive to men. So, there are some minor differences, but human skin has almost the same structure regardless of gender.

Yet, wander down the aisles of the health and beauty sections of large stores and supermarkets and a different picture is painted as the packaging palette morphs from flowery pastel to darker, monochromatic, where ‘suitable for men’ labels appear.

(image by Jernej Grej)

In ancient Egypt, beauty held significant value, and x and y chromosomes were neither known about nor had any influence over the products used for self-care. Both men and women went to great lengths with their skincare routines with the emphasis on cleanliness. Taking care of the body was necessary for good health and the same products have been found in the graves of both men and women.

In modern society we have tended to view self-care as being just for women and many men haven’t wanted to be seen taking that sort of care for themselves. But that is changing. We need to get away from the idea that taking care of our skin is about preventing wrinkles or focusing on anti-ageing. It’s not about vanity, it’s about nourishing our skin and taking care of ourselves. It’s less about gender and more about being holistic. Today’s men and women are more likely to be focused on greener, cleaner formulas than gender.

(Image by Curology)

There have been concerns in the past that male skin would be sensitised due to shaving which has led to products for men being branded as lighter. But it’s unnecessary to differentiate in this way and these traditional views are rapidly disappearing. The American Academy of Dermatology has found there is no medical or scientific reason for products to be divided by gender. Products should be all about feeding the skin, regardless of gender.

The focus in any skincare routine should be the needs of your skin and not your gender. Is your skin oily, dry, sensitive or a combination? Your gender doesn’t determine your skin type and by specifying products in this way, many people might be missing out on optimising their skincare routines. Men and women eat the same food after all. They might prefer some different flavours, and some might eat more than others but many ingredients are the same and enjoyed by both. We don’t market food to feed male and female bodies differently so why do we do it when it comes to feeding our skin?

(Image by Christopher Campbell) 

GlobalData, which provides expert analysis for companies in the world’s biggest industries, reports that rising expectations from consumers are now driving up the transition to gender-neutral products and smart retailers are already re-designing their stores in a shift away from the traditional male and female sections.

Start with products that suit your skin type. Keep it simple. We really don’t need hundreds of different products. Find a routine that works for you and stick with it. The days of husbands and boyfriends having to be coerced into using a face wash or moisturiser are diminishing in our enlightened world, but if men are embracing a skincare routine for the first time it makes sense to look for natural products. Don’t make the leap from never using skincare to suddenly slapping on something with a harsh retinol base. The key ingredients to look out for are products with antioxidants and vitamins, especially A, C, D and E as well as B12 for hydration. The fewer the ingredients the better. A gentle cleanser with milk and honey or an olive oil soap won’t strip away the skin’s natural oils. A high-factor sunscreen in the morning should set you up for the day. Overnight an oil-based moisturiser will calm and nourish. And that is all anyone really needs, with perhaps a serum boost a couple of times a week for added hydration.

 (Image by Hisu Lee) 

https://hayatynatural.uk

In the second of our probing of some of the greatest and most stylish minds of menswear, we set them the puzzling question of, “What is your favourite piece of clothing for Autumn/Fall 2022?”

First up this time we have Mr Damien Paul, head of menswear at MATCHESFASHION.

“So many to choose from! The collections were fabulous for AW22, from leather pants at Blazy’s debut at Bottega Veneta, to tonal white at Jil Sander, to s.s.DALEY’s voluminous trousers and western inspired statement denim from Y/Project in collaboration with Jean Paul Gaultier.”

How do you follow that? Well with Daniel Greengrass – Buyer/Store Manager of Wellgosh, that’s how !

“Its Got to be the daily paper vasity jacket.”

Following this is Olie Arnold, Style Director MR PORTER.

“Knitwear. All kinds, from fine gauge turtlenecks to chunky cable knits with The Elder Statesman and Dries Van Noten are always top of my list.”

Next up is Adrian Gibson of Robert Goddard.

“The item I am most excited about come from another new brand we are very excited to be working with and that is the luxury sneaker brand Android Homme. Conceptualised in Los Angeles and manufactured to very high quality in Portugal they can add a stylish accent to any outfit. The Marina Del Rey is made from quilted nylon, leather and features an oversized heel clip. Subtle but just enough detail to attract attention. Again, we have already had an amazing rection to this brand in store and are rolling out to more locations.”

ANDROID HOMME / android homme – Robert Goddard

Finally, for this post Pete Parry founder of Steranko.
“Would have to say the Folk patch shirt will be hard to beat. Stonking, jumbo cord shirts, slightly oversized and in ace colours.”

French Fashion Design Legend agnès b. announces a special collaboration with Corail, a brand who shares similar values. From September 2022, the two houses will offer co-branded sneakers,

available in agnès b. boutiques in France and abroad and on their respective e-shops.

These unique sneakers are made from plastic recovered from the Mediterranean Sea and the coast of Marseille

thanks to clean-up operations carried out with the help of Marseille fishermen and local associations. The plastic collected this way is recycled to make the soles, uppers, linings and even the laces of the sneakers, which are manufactured in a traditional way. The production is artisanal: the artisans make the sneakers by hand, and take attention to the smallest detail, because recycling does not prevent quality. These materials are sustainable, 100% vegan and cruelty-free.

The company was founded in 2019 by two long-time friends, Paul Guedj and Alexis Troccaz, sneakers fans but also disgusted

by the amount of plastic waste found on the beaches of southern France.

In 2019, they also launched the «Nique pas ta mer»* operation, in collaboration with fishermen who collect the rubbish floating at sea, thanks to trawls attached to the back of their boats. At the same time, they organize litter collection on the beaches. Paul and Alexis then transform this waste into sneakers and backpacks. These operations also allow fishermen, who are severely affected by climate change, to receive additional income.

agnès b. has been in love with the sea since childhood. Even as a child, she sailed with her father and her brother Bruno Troublé, who later became a renowned skipper.

In 2003, together with her son Etienne Bourgois, she bought the schooner Tara, which carries out scientific expeditions for the protection of the ocean.

She is still the main sponsor of the Tara Ocean Foundation, directed by Romain Troublé. This collaboration with Corail reinforces her commitment to the protection of the oceans and reinforces the values of the brand in these comfortable and modern sneakers!

BIOEFFECT uses, not surprisingly, biotechnology to restore and maintain the skins natural health and vitality with pure, clean, safe ingredients and truly effective advancements in skincare.

When we talk about purity in skin care, this Icelandic cult skincare brand hit all the right notes, from clean formulations with very few ingredients and filtered Icelandic water, all created and grown in a high-tech ecologically-engineered greenhouse in Iceland powered by sustainable geothermal energy. BIOEFFECT was founded by three Icelandic scientists when they discovered, after over a decade of research, a way to produce plant-based EGF (Epidermal Growth Factor) in barley plants.

BIOEFFECT pride themselves on the award-winning science and technology behind the creation of Barley EGF skincare and also have conducted over 50 scientific in-house efficacy studies, lasting from 2 months up to 3 years. The results of these studies clearly show that topical application of Barley EGF has a powerful and positive effect on skin’s appearance – including boosting hydration, smoothing, firming, and helping support the skin’s natural production of collagen.

The product range features anti-aging, plant-based EGF skincare. Recently launched, the EGF Power Cream is a deeply nourishing miracle worker targeting signs of ageing and the bestseller EGF Serum delivers proven results with only 7 pure ingredients. Other products in the range are the Hydrating Cream and the EGF Essence, a light, hydrating face essence enriched with EFG and pure Icelandic water to prep the skin for serum and moisturiser.

“The EGF Power Cream is definitely a new generation of anti-aging face cream. We have created a unique complex featuring our key ingredient Barley EGF as well as our new Barley Beta Glucan, Niacinamide, and the multi-functional plant extract Oridonin, a hidden gem in the world of skincare. These amazing ingredients work in perfect synergy to boost the complicated regenerative processes in our skin.“ says Dr Björn Örvar, BIOEFFECT co-founder and Chief Science Officer.

Not only that but their EGF (Epidermal Growth Factor) is a protein in our skin. It plays a vital role in the production of collagen, elastin, and hyaluronic acid to maintain skin’s healthy, dense, and youthful appearance. Once we reach maturity, in our twenties, the natural production of growth factor proteins starts to decrease. As a result, cell turnover and repair slow, eventually affecting our appearance – skin starts to sag, and fine lines and wrinkles appear. To combat these visible signs of aging, BIOEFFECT scientists invented a way to produce the world’s first plant-based EGF protein in barley, our Barley EGF, using cutting-edge biotechnology.

Since 1924, Belstaff has been synonymous with adventure. From traditional explorers to modern venturers, Belstaff caters to those who want to push every day to its limit. With almost a century of expertise under its belt, the London-based label has established a dedicated and loyal following, renowned for its rugged yet dapper collections that are rooted in the worlds of motorsports, aviation and the Navy. The brand’s signature jackets have been worn by the likes of Steve McQueen, Che Guevara and Sir Ben Ainslie, who is part of the brand’s ongoing social campaign this year.

Belstaff was created in 1924 by Eli Belovitch and his son-in-law Harry Grosberg and the brand name is actually a combination of Eli’s surname and his Staffordshire home. An avid traveller, Belovitch traversed the globe in search of innovative technologies. Returning to the UK having discovered Egyptian waxed cotton – and its applications for making breathable yet waterproof apparel – Belovitch laid the foundation of the next 94 years. And now, Belstaff has a permanent place in our wardrobes.

This season the brand launches a new proprietary fabric, Wave Dye for AW22 paying a modern tribute to a key source of inspiration for the brand this season – the ocean. The Wave Dye Nylon is made using 100% recycled materials and a unique hand-dying process to create a distinctive mottled two-tone effect that makes each garment unique and seen across Down filled jackets, overshirts and Belstaff’s signature Parameter jacket. The finish is also seen across fine merino knits, sweatshirts, T-shirts and accessories in amber, graphite grey, graph green and ocean blue. 

The ocean references continue in a core inspiration for the season: a Royal Navy Windproof Smock commissioned for the British Military in the 1970s. Design motifs from this archive style are reimagined through distinctive curved pockets, snaps, trims and stitching across outerwear and apparel.