CLOTHES MAKE THE MAN

(shot by Surgery TV a new fashion TV channel by Surgery PR)

Ok, before we start this morning I’ve a bit of a rant to get off my chest and I think it probably best put in the quote I’ve given to couple of publications, when asked to give my opinion on some of the more out there menswear shows we’ve seen this week during LC:M ;

“For Menswear designers today it’s increasingly difficult to obtain Media coverage so they know that, if they do wild and wacky pieces or collections they will achieve this. Very little has been spoken in the mainstream press about Agi & Sam who also were part of the MAN show, which included Craig Green and his, how can I put this, original face protection. This duo presented a great balance of directional and wearable clothing. Additionally, Oliver Spencer, Hackett, E.Tautz, Nutters of Savile Row or Matthew Miller, who all offered stand out collections that, virtually, any man could wear and look stylish and yet they receive very little column inches. It’s far easier to write negative articles about how crazy and mad Mens Fashion is even though the Fashion industry is worth £21bn to the UK economy.”

Jonathan Saunders AW13

OK end of rant, but I just find it sooooooo boring and lazy when people rip into Menswear, normally journalists who have very little experience of it and belittle and humiliate it when it’s a multi-million pound industry that is essential to the global economy and keeps millions of households in jobs every year alone.

Right then eyes down for round two and first on the agenda is Mr Jonathan Saunders, more known for his womenswear, this Scot is making real headway now with his Menswear. He drew his inspiration from the worlds of Op art, classicism and the Thin White Duke-era David Bowie, rather apt and maybe a good luck omen as it was Bowie’s birthday on this day. It was pleasant to see a collection which was so full of colour. My particular favourite piece was this harrington jacket in a gradation of colour like the sky at night when flying.

Richard James AW13

Over then to the re-furbished Cafe Royal for the Richard James Show who celebrates 21 years in the biz in 2013 and as you would expect showcased exceptional suiting and great re-working of the classic tuxedo in iridescent tones. According to the press release is was inspired by a unique fixture of London living that abounds with a curious, colourful life of its own. OK must have missed that but it was a great show.

Our next port of call was a Presentation called The English Gentleman at the Spencer House, which featured a mix of models dressed by Savile Row’s finest tailors. Forty different outfits were shown, spread through seven of the splendid rooms of London’s preeminent private palace. This essentially was a chance for Savile Row to, quite rightly, show off to the foreign press and just reiterate just how good at tailoring the UK is.

A mad dash ensued chasing round to attend a number of shows and presentations until the main event of the night, Alexander McQueen. Sarah Burton brought McQueen’s unique style of Gothic drama back to the UK and not since the Demeter carried Count Dracula to these shores have we seen such mystic. The models general demeanour was that of a rather demonic Max Headroom and the collection carried many of Burton’s trademark pagoda shoulder.This is something that won’t be to everyone’s likings, but there is no mistaking the sheer theatre of this collection.

The end of the Fashion world is nigh, well at least for London anyway before, its Milan’s turn to take on the baton. The subject of yesterday’s Post Christopher Raeburn started the final day of LC:M. Actor Russell Tovey, DJ/Presenter and face of Burton Menswear Reggie Yates (plus stylist Brother Cobi) Ohhh and we mustn’t forget Style Ambassador Dave Gandy all sat front row. Raeburn, invited us into his ethical world of outdoor pursuits, recycled and masculine menswear, with my personal favourites being his deconstructed checked parka with matching duffel bag.

E.Tautz AW13

A hop, skip and a jump over to join Patrick Grant at E.Tautz, here he offered his usual top class formal attire, where he perfectly blends the timeless traditions of Savile Row, yet manages to always deliver a bang up to date range. E.Tautz is one of those shows where you catch yourself thinking, want that, and that ohh and that. Keep it up sir.

Katie Eary AW13

Up next can only be described as an assault on your senses, almost a styling mugging, one could say. Kate Eary, managed to mash-up colours, patterns, prints and trends all without making look like some street wear dogs dinner. Everything from the styling to the music all worked in Eary’s favour. If you were feeling anyway jaded before you certainly felt lifted after that.

Lastly, what is starting to become LC:M’s equivalent of those memorable collaborations from the Brit Awards, like Dizzee and Florence, Justin and Kylie or Mick and Sam. Last year we saw Timothy Everest hook up with Superdry. This season we see the legendary Nutters of Savile Row team up with casual wear brand Peter Werth. These unusual bed partners came together while working on the wardrobe for the forthcoming film “Northern Soul”. The collection paid tribute to the archive of Tommy Nutter, oversized lapels, roped shoulders and wide leg trousers but mixed this with modern tailored sportswear so as to prevent it looking like a 70’s themed party. All these elements came together as a fitting an rip roaring finale to AW13’s LC:M, leaving just one question, how do you top that ?

Following on from the stella success of London Collections:Men‘s launch back in June last year, eveything went quite, in a ohhh God how can we top that kinda way. Well Gawd bless the BFC and it has to be said GQ’s Dylan Jones they’ve only gone and done it ! London Collections:MEN (sorry just cant get use to that name) has bounced back for Autumn/Winter 2013 bigger, better, faster, stronger with a schudule that includes such names as Hackett, Richard James and Rake, keeping the side up for the formal side of Great British Tailoring and Lou Dalton, Richard Nicholl and Christopher Shannon, no surprises there, yeah OK, OK. But, the BFC etc have been on a charm overdrive offensive and have been working their little socks off as they have enticed,drum roll please, Alexander McQueen, Bally and no other then get ready for it Mr Tom Ford to showcase their menwear wares !!!!

$Lou Dalton A\W 2013$

Lou Dalton A\W 2013

So to kick the proceedings off it fell on the first lady of British mens style, MsLou Dalton, to show the lads how it should be done. She graced us with a much more grown up collection for Dalton, as always, her suiting is impeccably cut, my personal favourites were the tweed numbers. Lou seems to be evolving into a confident and contemporary designer, but more importantly isn’t losing her sense of fun and humour, which Fashion so often lacks at times. Olympian and Strictly come Dancing contestant Victoria Pendleton sat front row flanked by the beautiful Catherine Hayward of British Esquire and fresh from spending his royalty cheque thanks to John Lewis, was 80’s pop icon, Frankie goes to Hollywood front man Holly Johnson.

From this great start I pulled on my hiking boots and headed over to for the launch of luxury brand, Bally, they were conducting their first capsule collection to cememorate the Sixtieth anniversary of the scaling of Mount Everest. Present at this soiree was a mixed bag of celebs which included TV presenter Rick Edwards, Merlin actor Alexander Vlahos, Libertines front man Karl Borat, Swimmer Marc Forster and fonejacker comedine Kayvan Novak , all out to celebrate both this feet of mankind’s conquering of nature’s elements and an unsurprisingly luxourious range by Bally.

$John Smedley A\W 2013$

John Smedley A\W 2013

Then onto a great colourful presentation laid on by the Forefather of fine gauge knits John Smedley, who have been proudly producing their wonderful knitwear in the UK since 1784 and did you know we have to be grateful to Mr Smedley for the invention on the Long Johns thermal underwear, you learn something new….

From here it was a well earned pit stop at the Bloggers suite care of The St Martins Lane Hotel. The perfect and most luxe way to file copy, check ones email and refill, before out into the breach again. Onwards & upwards !

$TopMan Design A\W 2013$

TopMan Design A\W 2013

Next up was TopMan Design and what a difference a season makes, no reference to surfers or surfing for this collection, as we saw with their last offering. No it was full on luxury explorer and his sherpa companion travelling and making their way through some urban comtemporary landscape. The first section of the show was very East 17’s “Stay another day”, but in a good way, honest. Then came a full on colour explosion on the senses in Reds and Oranges and if we are to believe Gordon Richardson and his TopMan design team, the Parka IS the coat for next Winter and they offered us options in all shapes, sizes and lengths.

$Mr Start A\W 2013$

Mr Start A\W 2013

Mr Start was next on my schedule, the uber stylish boutique of East London, where Nick Grimshaw sat next to Designer Henry Holland both with matching haircuts. The fabulous Mr Hare came along and of course a show isn’t quite complete without the two book ends of LC:M Model David Gandy and Man about Town Mr Tenie Tempah. Start offered us a beautifully sophisticated Man of Mystery, drawing on such iconic figures as George Smiley in Tinker, Tailor, Solider, Spy and Mid Sean Connery in his Bond years, almost a modern day vintage super spy. The collection felt rather Miu miu Menswear with its 60’s silhouette.

I can’t finish day 1 of LC:M without mentioning the Hackett show, which had a setting which was equal to how beautiful the collection was, The Crypt of St Paul’s Catherdal no less ! The range was masterfully styled by William Gilchrist and once again illustrated how a true gentleman should dress for every occasion.

Catch up with us tomorrow for the second part of LC:M

Is Christopher Raeburn the busiest man in Fashion at the moment ? Well, all signs and signals point to YES. As you read this post his Menswear Autumn/Winter 13 show for London Collections:MEN should be taking place, as he readied himself to present his womenswear collection next month, during the womenswear shows in London. Only last week it was announced by Victorinox, the creator of the Swiss Army Knife, that he has been appointed the Artistic Director of its Fashion Division. After they commissioned Raeburn to create a Remade in Switzerland capsule line for AW11. 2013 will see Christopher work with his brother Graeme, lead product designer with the Brilliant and uber trendy cycling brand Rapha, on a special edition capsule range for city cyclists.

He’s come a long way since appearing on a Fashion Design Reality TV Show, Project Catwalk. Launching in 2008, his collection was selected by the Imperial War Museum for their exhibition “Camouflage”. His signature collections consists of elegant outerwear for Men and Women which is made from decommissioned military stock, matching ethical values with cutting-edge design.

His Spring/Summer 13 Mens Collection is the embodiment of the two characteristics his designs have become known for: style and function. The collection demonstrated his commitment to supporting the British textile industry, this season features fabrics either sourced from London’s Crescent Trading or manufactured by Halley Stevenson of Dundee.

In he’s first interview since becoming the Artistic Director of Victorinox, the NEWGEN MEN and British Fashion Award winner, gives us an insight not only into his forthcoming AW13 collection but what makes Christopher Raeburn tick.

If you could have invented anything what would it be ?

Amazing question; maybe the Swiss Army Knife? It’s amazing to have invented something that so many people share an emotional relationship with and that’s so universally trusted and respected.

If you had one day to live what would be your biggest regret?

Not seeing the Northern Lights (yet); in fact not making it that far North in the world at all (or South). Not quite sure where my obsession with the bleakness and fragility of the Antarctic and Arctic comes from but I’d like to get to see them one day.

What inspires you?

Archeology, good design, animals, print, graphic, emotion, sport, colour, textures, happy accidents, travel, collaborations, provenance, technique, skill, aptitude, Inuit survival skills, BBC documentaries, Neil Young, pressure, age, reading, listening to people, teaching.

Who is your style icon? Why?

I always find this type of question tricky – I’ve realized that my icons have changed dependent on what I’m looking for or am interested in at that point. Steve McQueen has got to be up there but I’ve got a lot of admiration for Sir Ranulph Fiennes.

If you could give your teenage self advice, what would it be?

I wish I’d happened across Fischli and Weiss advise on work a little earlier so I’d probably ask myself to have a quick read:

1.Do one thing at a time

2.Know the problem

3.Learn to listen

4.Learn to ask questions

5.Distinguish sense from nonsense

6.Accept change as inevitable

7.Admit mistakes

8.Say it simple

9.Be calm

10. Smile

In your words, describe the collection ?

Strong, masculine, textured and rich in stories.

What was the inspiration for it ?

I’ve had a long-standing obsession with the Redsand sea forts; they were build during the Second World War to defend London. Essentially they’re seven giant metal towers that were towed out to the sea and then sunk to form defensive platforms; metal bridges connect them to one another. I’ve tried to design the collection imagining what it would be like to live in them today; we’ve worked a lot to bring interesting fabrics, techniques and detailing to the collection so that each piece really has it’s own story.

What are the key pieces in it?

I’m really proud of this season’s Pop-Out Parka; it’s a duel layer garment – the outer shell is constructed from 1950’s rubberized cotton capes mixed with foul weather trousers. We completely deconstruct the original garments and then re-work them into a new, limited edition piece – they all have the labeling “Remade in England”. Other key pieces include the Breton jersey range and the new accessories – we have some fantastic new rucksacks, satchels and hold-alls.

What track would always get you on the dance floor ?

Anything by Pulp, or Joy Division (although probably not everything). Am I allowed to say Fleetwood Mac?

How do spent your free time ?

Cycling is still a must for me and I’m keen on the odd challenge – last year I did the Welsh 3000’s (climbing the 15 mountains above 3000ft in 24 hours), basically I’m happy doing anything that gets me out and about.

What piece of clothing would you relegate to Room 101 ?

I was going to say shell-suits but couldn’t banish the 1980s childhood memories completely (rose-tinted spectacles I guess). Time and a place for everything I suppose.

If you could collaborate with one brand (Who you currently aren’t) who would it be and why?

I’m always keen to collaborate with brands where it can be a true partnership and make sense for both parties – John Smedley on Knitwear would be amazing. It’s also nice to think a little leftfield; Disney would be fun or I’d quite like to collaborate with a furniture designer or even product design.

What piece of style advise do you live by?

Layer up

Spring/Summer 2013 Christopher Raeburn Menswear

christopherraeburn.co.uk

As the message says Merry Christmas Everybody, but also we would like to wish you have a restful, relaxing and stress free Yuletide plus, health, happiness and good fortune in 2013. Many Thanks for joining us here at Clothes-make-the-man.com please continue joining us day in and day out. 2013 is going to be an interesting year, I promise.

Take care & good luck

Thank you

A.M.

Hardly anyone looks forward to wrapping their Christmas presents, and of that few that do get some odd perverse enjoyment from this, very few people are actually any good at it. In fact because of this fact the sale of decorated gift bags have sky rocketing in the last five years. Now as you all know by now we at Clothes Make The Man get great enjoyment out of making your life easier and so to finish off our essential guide to all things Christmassy we have sort the wrapping advice of an EXPERT. Yes, none other then QVC Presenter and all round Crafting Genius, yes and I don’t use that word freely, Stephanie Weightman ! Let me leave you in very skilled hands;

Wrapping Presents (Lo Res)

For more information on Stephanie or tips on Crafting go to Crafting.co.uk

CLOTHES MAKE THE MAN

London Collections:MEN Autumn/Winter 2013 part II

London Collections:MEN Autumn/Winter2013 part I

Nearly as handy as a Swiss Army Knife – Christopher Raeburn

Merry Christmas One and All From All at Clothes Make The Man

Christmas all wrapped up, thanks to Stephanie Weightman

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