CLOTHES MAKE THE MAN

Rumours of this partnership have been rumbling around for about a year now with many people dismissed it as pure speculation and never gonna happen. Well, here it is, Savile Row’s finest, Nick Hart Creative Director and Founder of the renowned sartorial brand, Spencer Hart is set to launch an exclusive collection in February 2013 with British tailoring brand, Austin Reed.

Nick, adds the finishing touches to the suit

Orlando Bloom, Benedict Cumberbatch, Robbie Williams, Dermot O’Leary, David Beckham, P Diddy and David Bowie are all fans of Nick’s designs and for this project, entitled AR RED Nick Hart, its tried to encompass his trademark influences from the world of music. From British jazz, soul and funk from the 70’s and 80’s, whilst taking inspiration from some of todays leading musicians such as Alex Turner of the Artic Monkeys.

Nick Hart says of the launch, “Taking into consideration the extensive tailoring heritage of Austin Reed, I have designed a range in my vision that is entirely accessible and wearable for the office and exudes the style expected of a modern day gentleman who has a contemporary attitude to businesswear and style.”

The collection includes Hart’s signature Shawl lapels, Peak Lapels and dresswear all cut with a very tailored fit. Key pieces include the sharp, slim fit suit in statement teal. A 3- piece dress suit with black satin lapel in both slim peak and shawl, offering a modish sophistication.Waistcoats are a major feature to the collection featuring Hart’s trademark lapels. Silk scarves and dark ties complete the looks.

Casualwear brings together key pieces including seersucker jackets, a gingham Harrington jacket and navy Harrington bomber style jacket.

Carven Menswear AW13

After we bid a fond Arrivedercci to Milano, its Paris, the city of love’s turn to show us its wares. Carven, was first off and also a first for them to host a Menswear Catwalk Show, it blended contemporary office wear with vintage ski attire, perfect for the weather at the moment. The collection offered beautiful tailoring and everything a modern man could possible yearn from his wardrobe. However, I’m really not sure the trouser length of just below the knee will catch on, them poor models’ll catch their death !

Louis Vuitton Menswear AW13

Over to Louis Vuitton next, where the Men’s Style Director Kim Jones transported us to the Himalayas offering us all sorts of animal prints and pelts. British Art duo Dinos and Jake Chapman, one of Jones’s Favourite artists, worked with him on a number of motifs across the collection, including their “Garden in Hell” which appeared on tuxedos, luggage and pyjamas. What more could a well travelled gentleman ask for ?

Maison Martin Margiela Menswear AW13

Maison Martin Margiela, was the next port of call and offered a brilliantly cast show showcasing gentlemen full of gallic charm and character. Although I love the wearability, usually, of this brand, sometimes I find it a little lost on me and I’m sure I’m not solo on this. Why ruin a great double breasted suit by making it into a jumpsuit or trash loads of vintage biker jackets to make a cape, which wouldn’t have been out of place on a horror film villain ? But on the whole, I still love what Martin does in his Maison.

Riccardo Tisci for Givenchy Menswear AW13

As Christopher Kane looked to his dark side in the form of Franenstein’s Monster for his Autumn 2013 collection, now it was the turn of Riccardo Tisci for Givenchy. The candles laid out around the catwalk gave a seance feel to the proceeding and one hoped this wasn’t an omen for the range. Not at all in fact Tisci, interpreted, in a rather gothic fashion, the images of American artist Robert Mapplethorpe using monochrome tones. Plus, loved the styling tip of tying your jacket around your waist, bring it on !

Ami by Alexandre Mattiussi Menswear AW13

Ami is quickly establishing itself as a label of choice for those in the know and its really not difficult to see why the label designed by Alexandre Mattiussi is doing so well. Its success, like main key brand of the moment in its ease, easy to wear, easy to put together, easy to outfit build which in turn makes your life easier. The show’s set was staged to be the morning’s commuter train, where sharp dressed chaps made their way to the grind.

And to, what has to be the most anticipated event for seasons, the last show of the schedule, an unmistakable Parisian Fashion house with a new name, kinda, with a new designer, kind of…..Saint Laurent by Hedi Slimane. His first menswear show, well his second as he was at the house for a short time back in 2000, but now he’s back and in a big way and….. Well, and not a great deal, nothing we hadn’t seen before and nothing you couldn’t pick up elsewhere for a fraction of the price. I want to leave it there as I believe Hedi Slimane is a great talent and look forward to seeing what he produces for next season, as we have to remember this is the man who caused literally a revolution in mens clothing, in what we wear and how we wore it, back at Dior Homme.

Reflecting on things – Mark Powell in his Soho Store

Mark Powell, is somewhat of a modern day maverick, he can often be seen striding around the streets of Soho, almost resembling a great kindly monarch prevuing over his kingdom and acknowledging his subjects as he goes. Additionally, and in complete honesty, it has to be said Powell is one of London’s most iconic and influential bespoke tailors. Renowned for his nostalgical and classically inspired tailoring, combined with experimental cuts and styling, he was one of the first tailors to successfully bridge the gap between the traditions of Savile Row and modern street style.

Over the years he has dressed literally every leading zeitgeist celebrities including George Clooney, Harrison Ford, Mick and Bianca Jagger, David Bowie, George Michael, Bryan Ferry, Naomi Campbell, Tom Jones, Take That, The Kray Twins, Ant and Dec, Daniel Radcliffe, Usher, Frank Lampard, Morrissey, Neil Tennant from The Pet Shop Boys, The Killers, Paul Weller, Keira Knightley, Rupert Friend, Martin Freeman and Jonathan Rhys Meyers, now that’s what you call a celebrity rota and what you’d give to be at a party with all those in the room !

Away from all of this celebrity nonsense, Mark is a true craftsman and this has seen him work with everyone from Marks & Spencer to Mulberry in the past, who have sort him for his signature balance between true Savile Row tailoring and contemporary vision. Lets see what the man who is never short of a thing to two to say, makes of the questions from Clothes-make-the-man.com –

If you could have invented anything what would it be ?

Shoes, I love them.

If you had one day to live what would be your biggest regret ?

Only having one day left to live

What would be the one piece of clothing you would rescue from your home in the event of a fire ?

My brown double breasted alpaca and cashmere Ulster coat.

What inspires you ?

Great style, old Hollywood movies and Soho for its diversity.

Bunny Roger

Who is your style icon ? Why ?

Amongst many, one would be Bunny Roger for his neo-Edwardian style.

Tell us something no one else knows ?

Sorry, I can’t, it’s a secret.

What piece of style advise do you live by ?

Always wear a suit with a tie, can’t stand the current relaxed look without one.

Who would do you ideal diner guest and why ?

Ava Gardner because she was very beautiful and headstrong which I like in a person.

What piece of clothing best describes you ?

One of my bespoke suits because they’re unique, stylish and characterful, like me.

How did you get into the industry, what was your big break ?

I got into the industry from my personal interest in tailoring, people started to ask me where my suits were from so I started making them for them. My first big break was opening my first shop, Powell & Co. in Archer Street, Soho in 1985.

A young but still very dapper Mr Mark Powell

www.markpowellbespoke.co.uk

As stores start to get in their new Spring 2013 ranges and as the weathermen start to inform us of blizzards and freezing conditions. I thought I’d try and lighten the mood and give us something to look forward to. In the last couple of months of 2012, I was lucky enough to have a preview of countless apparel’s brands Spring /Summer collections for this forthcoming season from high end designer to high street brands. So I thought I’d give you a sneak preview, but keep it to yourself 😉 ENJOY.

Channeling a little warmer weather Tommy Hilfiger had some of the best swimwear around this season.

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The Brilliant Sunglasses range Sunday Somewhere, well worth keeping your eyes peeled for, gettit !

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Looking sharp and expect the unexpected from Peter Werth, over the next couple of seasons.

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Look like a living work of art with casual wear brand FLY 53

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We’ll definitely be seeing more of Tourne de Transmission, well certainly on here anyway.

Have to be honest, I L O V E love Hancock and they have a great back story. I know let’s do a post on them !

I can honestly say Camouflage HAS to be one of the biggest menswear trends for Spring 13 and this shirt from Addict is a great way of saying it. I have an idea this isn’t the last we’ll see of camo pieces.

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I had to include this one, even though its more of a girls story, but if your stuck for a gift idea for the lady in your life these Eley Kishimoto X Clarks shoes will absolutely stunned.

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This was one of my favourite jackets from the Press days and great for that unpredictable summer weather, well done Banana Republic.

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Maybe its because of my love for Hitchcock but these sock from Thomas Pink are a much have for Spring.

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Sir Paul Smith never fails when it comes to adding a spot of colour to our life and always manages to keep it looking masculine.

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The day I saw this top with matching shorts from 55DSL, the weather was particularly fowl and left me longing warm barmy climbs.

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Dr Martens are continuing to prove that they are going from strength to strength in the shoe department.

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Smarten your act up over the summer with the simple deconstructed blazer by Boden.

Clarks have come up with this great footwear range based on its founder Nathan Clark, which has bags of potential to be expanded, in my humble opinion

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These great boat shoes with a twist were a real pleasure surprise from Romain Kremer X Camper shoes

Told you we’d see more camo and this time it’s a collaboration by Passarella Death Squad X Boxfresh

OK granted not the most exciting of pieces but I guarantee Lacoste will have more planned to celebrate their 80th Anniversary !

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One of the most exciting collaborations for Spring 2013 has to be Austin Reed X Spencer Hart, a lot of people have high expectations from this project and it don’t disappoint. More on this VERY soon.

A brand we haven’t heard to much from in this country for a while is J.Lindeberg. Well its well worth taking another look at them. The collection for Spring is amazing, this rucksack was a personal have but the burgundy tux and the tweed suits were worth smashing the piggy bank opening for !

The review of the Milan Menswear shows for this coming Autumn has a truly international feel to it, no not just because it’s Milanese, but we kick off with the review with the first lady of German, no not Angela Merkel,tut, the other iron lady Jil Sander and we conclude with the colourful Canadian duo the Brothers Caten and along the way we’ll throw in a Brit and a Yank for good measure.

Jil Sander AW13

You know when you attend a Jil Sander show it isn’t going to be all Peacock feathers, day glo and a gangster rap sound track and do you know what ? It wasn’t this season either, but what we were treated to was a vintage collection of true, pure Sander genius. There were covert military references, no surprises there, the colour palette was masculine and continued with the slight military undertone. But what was the show’s greatest success was the fact that it offered a sensible, wearable and contemporary collection without being boring.

Dolce & Gabbana AW13

Moving on to designers on more home turf for Dolce & Gabbana, who surely must be expecting a call from the Vatican’s legal team, for a share of their profits ? First they took the Rosary beads and turned them into a must have male Fashion accessory now they seem to have turned their attention to the miraculous medal, ask your Catholic friends. Their theme was “devotion” and boy did they mean it. They had turned their Teatro into a shrine, so much so, I nearly genuflected when I entered. This was full on Roman Catholic iconology, either a saints image was used to decorate a garment or the models looked as those they had stepped out of the seminary. Move over Geek chic this is parish priest chic !

Burberry AW13

Told you we’d throw a Brit in for good measure and who better then Mr Christopher Bailey MBE for Burberry Prorsum, who opted for the rather nostalgic theme of “I ♥ Classics” for his Autumnal showcase and on the whole I’d agree with him. It was a beautifully wearable collection but I’m just not quite sure about the injections of animal print, whether on bags, sunglasses, macs or on all the shoes throughout the show, maybe it’ll grow on me.

Next up is the all American brand helmed by the Italian Italo Zucchelli, Calvin Klein Collection. For this season Zucchelli seems to have fused a mix of contemporary masculine tailoring and futuristic sci-fi outerwear ala Blake 7, which saw the models look like either delegates or officers at some far flung inter galactic sartorial conference.

The Missoni show and its 60th anniversary was marred with the sad news that Vittorio Missoni and his wife Maurizia Castiglioni are still missing after their plane disappeared off the coast of Venezuela last Friday. The family decided the show must go on and indeed it did. The family run business famed for its patterned knitwear, offered a collection that couldn’t fail to please, not only were the aforementioned knits on display in outdoorsy hues. But the iconic family patterns were more subtly used in the weave of the fabric used in the construction of overcoats and suiting.

Prada AW13

What can I say about Prada, well I want that Blue jumper NOW ! for starters. This collection wasn’t tricksy or whimsical, apparently the design team have been working on the exact tones of colour for months and it certainly paid off for them. Sub-culture references were there, this time Teddy boys, but it wouldn’t be a Prada show without these. If I had to make one criticism of it, be it a small one, was I found the casting distracting, the models looked like the 3 stooges and their dad or some odd Slovakian version of Hollyoaks, but it wasn’t enough to detract from the show.

Gucci AW13

And so from one Italian Dynasty to another, Gucci are freakin good at what they do and Frida Giannini, is doing a sterling job as Creative Director, almost to the point of making it an impossible task to think who could ever replace her at the iconic Fashion house and who would have thought that after Tom Ford. The Gucci vision and DNA is so strong there is no mistaking a piece from this company from accessories to a tuxedo, it is undoubtably Gucci and this collection does not disappoint and can be summed u in one word, Classic, this is without a doubt Giannini’s most traditional of collections to date.

DSquared2 AW13

Finally, to the Dynamic DSquared2 duo of Canadian Twins Dan and Dean Caten. What a show ! Congratulations lads, the best collection to date and it all centred around 1940’s jazz clubs. But don’t let the retro theme fool you this was bang up to date and offered something everyman could buy into.

CLOTHES MAKE THE MAN

I ♥ this collaboration – Nick Hart for Austin Reed

Paris Menswear Shows Autumn/Winter 2013

A true man of the cloth – Mark Powell

Spring 2013 Preview

Milan Menswear Shows AW13

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