Stutterheim, mightn’t be a brand you think you’ve heard of before, but they recently worked along a number of high profile brands including Balmain, Lanvin and Balenciaga on a collaboration collection curated by Shawn Carter aka Jay Z and housed by the Uber retailer Barneys New York, entitled “A New York Holiday.”

The collection includes a black leather backpack from Balenciaga, a black square-print scarf from Balmain, a hoodie from Rick Owens, a tailored jacket from Lanvin, a black leather duffel with faux crocodile trim from Proenza Schouler and an 18-karat-gold double ring from Hoorsenbuhs. Though a majority of the brands involved worked on a single piece, a few explored further territory. The Elder Statesman, for example, created a black-and-ivory color-blocked cashmere blanket as well as a cashmere ski mask, OK. Jay Z conceived the entire range within a white, black, silver and gold color scheme.

“This is my first collaboration, as my rain project is quite new,” said Stutterheim creative director and founder Alexander Stutterheim, who crafted a raincoat with gold snap buttons for the assortment. “Initially, I had intended for it to remain a solo project because I did not want anything to compromise my ideas and design, but I have always appreciated Jay Z’s unique creativity. He also seems like a nice person, husband and father, which is just as important to me.

However, Stutterheim’s back story is as interesting as any project with Mr Z, his range is very much inspired by his Grandfather and impressive muse who was a poetry writing Fisherman by day and managed a local theatre in Stockholm by night. One day when he was in his Grandfather’s barn he came across his old rain coat. He describes it as, “It was both stunningly cool and very practical (although as big as a tent). With great care, I brought it back home to my kitchen and imagined it in an updated, contemporary version. A homage to my granddad, and the quest for life”.

After what can only be described as a labour of Love, Stutterheim, with the help of a couple of skilled craftsmen & women, who opposed great attention to materials and detail they realised their raincoats should be handmade. A great way to honour his granddad’s durable and practical raincoat.

The coat. With all its seams taped and sealed, in the very best quality. Handmade and with a discreet, classical cut. The first 200 coats – Arholma Svart – were made and sold in his apartment. Each coat was signed and numbered by the seamstress, as they still are, to really make sure the quality matched the very highest of standards. However, after a couple of months, (when his neighbours became suspicious of all the people in black rain coats) Alexander had to move the business to another location.

Where do they put it ? Is a question I often ask when I find myself in the Internationally renowned Temple of Consumerism, Selfridges. It literally seems to be like some sort of TARDIS which is able to squeeze in more and more interesting collaborations, brands, themes and what-have-you. Last week it was the AMAZING Louis Vuitton Townhouse, this week its the turn of Mallorcan Footwear and accessories brand Camper to exclusively showcase its Camper Together collections on its world leading men’s shoe floor.

The area will include Camper’s innovative and unexpected collaborations with Kvadrat, the Scandinavian upholstery manufacturer, Bernhard Willhelm, whose unconventional style developed the hugely popular Himalayan sneaker(see below), yes you read that correctly, and Romain Kremer’s conceptual hybrid shoe. These will sit beside Camper’s signature range of men’s shoes in Selfridges Oxford Street flagship store, one of the most recognisable department stores in the World. The history of the two retailers is almost parallel – Camper’s Spanish heritage begins in 1877 and Selfridges, (as fans of the popular ITV period drama will know) in 1909. Both established by pioneering fearless visionaries, Antonio Fluxa and Gordon Selfridge respectively.

I first came across the brand Joules, whilst away with the Outlaws a couple of years ago in Padstow in Cornwall and was completely unaware that they even produced Menswear until a few years later when I attended aPress day for them and was completely bowled over to see their Mens Apparel. This is a family run business in EVERY sense of the word and there is some family, or friend, connection with pretty much everyone who works for Joules.This comes across so very clearly whenever you meet someone from the brand and they discuss it with such passion and understanding.

Joules was literally established in the fields of Great Britain or more specifically in Leicestershire and it today still has strong roots in the small rural town of Market Harborough, where the very first shop and head office are based. Following in his father’s footsteps, Tom Joule began selling country clobber at equestrian and country events across Britain, more than three decades ago. Quality was a foundation element in the formation of the brand and is never compromised and its promised that it will never be sacrificed for price. The feel of the fabric, the detail, linings and fit have all been given a huge amount of attention to deliver the best product. Bringing that countryside state of mind to the City.

For Winter 13, Joules have clearly takes inspiration from the Prince of Wales, Edward VIII and his iconic wardrobe; focusing on the traditional and regal styling of a British Heritage wardrobe whilst bringing them to life with an injection of rich and royal colours. Multi fabrication and reinforcement detailing on outerwear and brushed- wool shirting in over checks give this story the traditional country twist.

COMPETITION TIME

If you fancy channeling your inner Country Gent without looking out of place on the City streets, then now’s you chance, as we have teamed up with Joules to offer one lucky winner the chance to win the following key outfit from the Joules Winter 2013 Collection !!!! We are offering the Windsted French navy jacket, Whitfield Navy stripe shirt and the Stretton French navy Chinos and all you have to do is sign up to Clothes-Make-the-Man.com from now until midnight (GMT) on 1st November 2013, YES IT’S THAT EASY, I PROMISE

*PLEASE NOTE the above items are available in sizes 30, 32, 34, 36,38 or small-XXL

Well, its been quite a week for the French Fashion house, of Louis Vuitton, firstly they announce, former Balenciaga creative visionaire, Nicholas Ghesquière as Artistic Director of its women’s collections, with immediate effect. Ghesquière commented at the briefing: “Louis Vuitton has always incarnated for me the symbol of ultimate luxury, innovation and exploration. I am very honored of the mission that I am entrusted with, and proud to join the history of this great Maison. We share common values and a vision. I can’t wait to join the team. Together we will build the future of the brand while preserving its precious heritage.”

Now if that wasn’t enough, today, the gallic luxury uber-brand will inaugurate a new store, the Louis Vuitton Townhouse, located in the renowned department store, Selfridges. Built over 3 inter-connecting floors, the Townhouse follows a new architectural concept by the French-born and internationally acclaimed designer and former RCA student, Gwenaël Nicolas, whose past clients have included Issey Miyake and Lexus.

Through this unique space the brand promise their clientele a unique journey of surprise and discovery, a real dialogue between modernity and tradition inside the largest European department store-based destination. This is achieved by such features as the symbolic spiral structure which rises through the historical building. The ground floor will showcase the new collections of leather goods, accessories and travel items, with a dedicated and interactive digital platform of personalisation – a worldwide first for Louis Vuitton. Crafted glass art pieces become a striking background for the Vuitton leather collections including city bags, luggage and hard-sided pieces as well as the Maison’s iconic special orders and Mon Monogram.

Further into the store, a state-of-the-art circular elevator is revealed, which connects the upper floors. The short journey inside the elevator reveals a head-turning surprise as the glass structure gently spins inside a glass tube, following the movement of the spiral construction and offering an experience like no other. The amber brown patterns which are designed to evoking memories of sunset lights, are the prefect setting, for the first floor presents, for the first time the full Mens ready-to-wear, shoes and accessories collections presented by the in-house mens designer, Kim Jones, and is contrasted by strong patinated glass elements.

Morning Style seekers, wherever you may arise, the subject of today’s textual conversation is a lady who has very much cut a dash in the male obsessing world of menswear. After graduating from, what was, Nottingham Poly with a first Class degree in Fashion & Textiles (Ohhhh Clever clogs), and surely whats stated as her graduation year on her biog, must clearly be a typo. Frances Walker was not only instrumental in devising and set up Nicole Farhi Menswear, as sole designer in 1988 having joined Nicole Farhi upon leaving university. She also played a key role in formulated the unique silhouette which became synonymous with the uniquely iconic designer.

Following this, Walker joined Jigsaw in February 2011 to set up and relaunch Jigsaw Menswear after it’s hiatus, the first incarnation having been a hugely respected and successful brand which operated from 1993-1999.  The Spring Summer 13 collection launched into 20 Jigsaw stores, a standalone Menswear store and of course online. She continues to be very hands-on as well as directing the design across all areas of the collection and driving the brand from strength to strength.

Frances describes her inspiration for the Autumn 2013 collection as “I always start off with colour. The tonal approach of Mark Rothko and Sean Scully, with their soft colour blocking, led to this idea of working patchwork into the collection in shades of navy, seaweed, charcoal, grey, cranberry and a dark rusty colour we’ve named ‘squirrel’.”

The blurry shapes of the artists’ paintings translate effortlessly into soft yarns such as Alpaca in the knitwear, washed Harris Tweed made in Britain, lush velvets and Jigsaw Menswear’s signature tartans, which have been specially developed with Lochcarron of Scotland to complement the collection’s somber palette.

The theme is expertly variegated textures and fabrics – the idea is that you can layer the different textures, tone-on-tone to create our Autumn/Winter look. With her key pieces within the collection being the wool bomber jacket, the Double breasted shawl collar merino knitted jacket, the wool gingham Abraham Moon(the prestigious British Cloth factory) suit, the harris tweed coat, the patchwork tweed stitch roll knit sweater, the patchwork and tartan tailored trousers, the Teddy bear coat (a shawl collar pea coat).

If you had one day to live what would be your biggest regret ?

That it was my last day!! Still so much I want to do/experience. This may sound dull but as a mum… it would be not seeing my kids (both teenagers) grow up: they are so so fabulous and my finest achievement by far!

If you could have invented anything what would it be ?

The zip…. the printing press… a fine-liner drawing pen!

What would be the one piece of clothing you would rescue from your home in the event of a fire ?

My first piece of Comme des garçons: a fab long black velvet/silk dress circa 1994 I reckon. it was a gift and by far and away my most expensive piece of clothing ever as it was full price!

What inspires you ?

Wow!…so many things. At the moment, I am loving the portrait paintings of the American painter, Alice Neel particularly the series she did of men. Antique clothing has always been a source of inspiration for me; specifically the love, care and attention with which it was not only made, but also the beautiful repairs and patching that kept it going. People you see or meet who are comfortable in their skin, whose style is effortlessly handsome and at the same time individual. people who don’t take themselves too seriously. I worked with Nicole Farhi for years; she had the most wonderful personal style she never looked like she tried to hard… I love things which are a bit off… not quite right

If you could only wear one brand/Designer for the rest of your life who would it be ?

Of course I wear a lot of JIGSAW and the pieces complement my life style, but if I was thinking international stage Comme des garçons: I adore the fabrics and finishes, the basics/core styles evolve but the underlying fit stays the same and the seasonal pieces are always full-on and creative in a way which truly brightens up your life. I love the pieces which make you gasp and wonder where the ideas came from… the imperfect perfection (wabi sabi!) of them.

Who is your muse and why ?

It changes, Lucien Freud, is often on the mood board along with Steve McQueen. Nick Wooster always looks pretty good too!

Tell us something no one else knows ?

As an intern at Next in about 1986, I was given some letraset (cant recall more than a couple of computers in the graphics dept at Next at that time!)and asked to come up with some labelling ideas. They used one of the logos I designed for many of their Mens garments (I remember the underwear in particular!) and their company lorries for years to come. the label read Pinooers in British Menswear I remember!!!Sir Paul Smith bought me my first Marguerita at a fabulous bar (wish I could remember the name!) in NYC in 1986 the year he opened his first american store on Fifth Avenue… I was in NY with 3 other students after winning a competition Paul had set across 4 arts courses for my year group at Nottingham Poly. Paul kept hold of my passport as I looked about 12. It was the most amazing trip and Paul was wonderful to us all and totally infectious to be around! I had a trolley race with him a few years later in baggage reclaim at Heathrow after bumping into him collecting his bags after a trip. I just remember him saying race ya and that was it, he was off ! cant remember who won!!!

What piece of clothing should everyman have in his wardrobe ?

A great pair of Jeans (and an expensive pair of shoes)

What piece of clothing would you relegate to Room 101 ?

Flares

What do you have to do after this conversation ?

Crack on with designing some knitwear for AW14

What would you like to be doing after this conversation ?

Flying off to NYC

JIGSAW MENSWEAR AUTUMN 2013 COLLECTION

CLOTHES MAKE THE MAN

Stutterheim state of mind – Stutterheim Raincoats

Setting up Camp in Selfridges – Camper Pop up

The Crown Joules – Joules

COMPETITION TIME

Home is where the LV heart is – The new Louis Vuitton Townhouse at Selfridges

Putting the pieces back together, Jigsaw Menswear – Frances Walker, Textual Conversation

JIGSAW MENSWEAR AUTUMN 2013 COLLECTION

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