London Collections:MEN Autumn/Winter2013 part I


Following on from the stella success of London Collections:Men‘s launch back in June last year, eveything went quite, in a ohhh God how can we top that kinda way. Well Gawd bless the BFC and it has to be said GQ’s Dylan Jones they’ve only gone and done it ! London Collections:MEN (sorry just cant get use to that name) has bounced back for Autumn/Winter 2013 bigger, better, faster, stronger with a schudule that includes such names as Hackett, Richard James and Rake, keeping the side up for the formal side of Great British Tailoring and Lou Dalton, Richard Nicholl and Christopher Shannon, no surprises there, yeah OK, OK. But, the BFC etc have been on a charm overdrive offensive and have been working their little socks off as they have enticed,drum roll please, Alexander McQueen, Bally and no other then get ready for it Mr Tom Ford to showcase their menwear wares !!!!

Lou Dalton A\W 2013

Lou Dalton A\W 2013

So to kick the proceedings off it fell on the first lady of British mens style, MsLou Dalton, to show the lads how it should be done. She graced us with a much more grown up collection for Dalton, as always, her suiting is impeccably cut, my personal favourites were the tweed numbers. Lou seems to be evolving into a confident and contemporary designer, but more importantly isn’t losing her sense of fun and humour, which Fashion so often lacks at times. Olympian and Strictly come Dancing contestant Victoria Pendleton sat front row flanked by the beautiful Catherine Hayward of British Esquire and fresh from spending his royalty cheque thanks to John Lewis, was 80’s pop icon, Frankie goes to Hollywood front man Holly Johnson.

From this great start I pulled on my hiking boots and headed over to for the launch of luxury brand, Bally, they were conducting their first capsule collection to cememorate the Sixtieth anniversary of the scaling of Mount Everest. Present at this soiree was a mixed bag of celebs which included TV presenter Rick Edwards, Merlin actor Alexander Vlahos, Libertines front man Karl Borat, Swimmer Marc Forster and fonejacker comedine Kayvan Novak , all out to celebrate both this feet of mankind’s conquering of nature’s elements and an unsurprisingly luxourious range by Bally.

John Smedley A\W 2013

John Smedley A\W 2013

Then onto a great colourful presentation laid on by the Forefather of fine gauge knits John Smedley, who have been proudly producing their wonderful knitwear in the UK since 1784 and did you know we have to be grateful to Mr Smedley for the invention on the Long Johns thermal underwear, you learn something new….

From here it was a well earned pit stop at the Bloggers suite care of The St Martins Lane Hotel. The perfect and most luxe way to file copy, check ones email and refill, before out into the breach again. Onwards & upwards !

TopMan Design A\W 2013

TopMan Design A\W 2013

Next up was TopMan Design and what a difference a season makes, no reference to surfers or surfing for this collection, as we saw with their last offering. No it was full on luxury explorer and his sherpa companion travelling and making their way through some urban comtemporary landscape. The first section of the show was very East 17’s “Stay another day”, but in a good way, honest. Then came a full on colour explosion on the senses in Reds and Oranges and if we are to believe Gordon Richardson and his TopMan design team, the Parka IS the coat for next Winter and they offered us options in all shapes, sizes and lengths.

Mr Start A\W 2013

Mr Start A\W 2013

Mr Start was next on my schedule, the uber stylish boutique of East London, where Nick Grimshaw sat next to Designer Henry Holland both with matching haircuts. The fabulous Mr Hare came along and of course a show isn’t quite complete without the two book ends of LC:M Model David Gandy and Man about Town Mr Tenie Tempah. Start offered us a beautifully sophisticated Man of Mystery, drawing on such iconic figures as George Smiley in Tinker, Tailor, Solider, Spy and Mid Sean Connery in his Bond years, almost a modern day vintage super spy. The collection felt rather Miu miu Menswear with its 60’s silhouette.

I can’t finish day 1 of LC:M without mentioning the Hackett show, which had a setting which was equal to how beautiful the collection was, The Crypt of St Paul’s Catherdal no less ! The range was masterfully styled by William Gilchrist and once again illustrated how a true gentleman should dress for every occasion.

Catch up with us tomorrow for the second part of LC:M

 

Nearly as handy as a Swiss Army Knife – Christopher Raeburn

Screen Shot 2013-01-06 at 20.48.13Is Christopher Raeburn the busiest man in Fashion at the moment ? Well, all signs and signals point to YES. As you read this post his Menswear Autumn/Winter 13 show for London Collections:MEN should be taking place, as he readied himself to present his womenswear collection next month, during the womenswear shows in London. Only last week it was announced by Victorinox, the creator of the Swiss Army Knife, that he has been appointed the Artistic Director of its Fashion Division. After they commissioned Raeburn to create a Remade in Switzerland capsule line for AW11. 2013 will see Christopher work with his brother Graeme, lead product designer with the Brilliant and uber trendy cycling brand Rapha, on a special edition capsule range for city cyclists.

He’s come a long way since appearing on a Fashion Design Reality TV Show, Project Catwalk. Launching in 2008, his collection was selected by the Imperial War Museum for their exhibition “Camouflage”. His signature collections consists of elegant outerwear for Men and Women which is made from decommissioned military stock, matching ethical values with cutting-edge design.

His Spring/Summer 13 Mens Collection is the embodiment of the two characteristics his designs have become known for: style and function.  The collection demonstrated his commitment to supporting the British textile industry, this season features fabrics either sourced from London’s Crescent Trading or manufactured by Halley Stevenson of Dundee.

In he’s first interview since becoming the Artistic Director of Victorinox, the NEWGEN MEN and British Fashion Award winner, gives us an insight not only into his forthcoming AW13 collection but what makes Christopher Raeburn tick.

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If you could have invented anything what would it be ?

Amazing question; maybe the Swiss Army Knife? It’s amazing to have invented something that so many people share an emotional relationship with and that’s so universally trusted and respected.

 

If you had one day to live what would be your biggest regret?

Not seeing the Northern Lights (yet); in fact not making it that far North in the world at all (or South). Not quite sure where my obsession with the bleakness and fragility of the Antarctic and Arctic comes from but I’d like to get to see them one day.

 

What inspires you?

Archeology, good design, animals, print, graphic, emotion, sport, colour, textures, happy accidents, travel, collaborations, provenance, technique, skill, aptitude, Inuit survival skills, BBC documentaries, Neil Young, pressure, age, reading, listening to people, teaching.

Who is your style icon? Why?

I always find this type of question tricky – I’ve realized that my icons have changed dependent on what I’m looking for or am interested in at that point. Steve McQueen has got to be up there but I’ve got a lot of admiration for Sir Ranulph Fiennes.

 

If you could give your teenage self advice, what would it be?

I wish I’d happened across Fischli and Weiss advise on work a little earlier so I’d probably ask myself to have a quick read:

1.Do one thing at a time

2.Know the problem

3.Learn to listen

4.Learn to ask questions

5.Distinguish sense from nonsense

6.Accept change as inevitable

7.Admit mistakes

8.Say it simple

9.Be calm

10. Smile

 

In your words, describe the collection ?

Strong, masculine, textured and rich in stories.

 

What was the inspiration for it ?

I’ve had a long-standing obsession with the Redsand sea forts; they were build during the Second World War to defend London. Essentially they’re seven giant metal towers that were towed out to the sea and then sunk to form defensive platforms; metal bridges connect them to one another. I’ve tried to design the collection imagining what it would be like to live in them today; we’ve worked a lot to bring interesting fabrics, techniques and detailing to the collection so that each piece really has it’s own story.

 

What are the key pieces in it?

I’m really proud of this season’s Pop-Out Parka; it’s a duel layer garment – the outer shell is constructed from 1950’s rubberized cotton capes mixed with foul weather trousers. We completely deconstruct the original garments and then re-work them into a new, limited edition piece – they all have the labeling “Remade in England”. Other key pieces include the Breton jersey range and the new accessories – we have some fantastic new rucksacks, satchels and hold-alls.

 

What track would always get you on the dance floor ?

Anything by Pulp, or Joy Division (although probably not everything). Am I allowed to say Fleetwood Mac?

 

How do spent your free time ?

Cycling is still a must for me and I’m keen on the odd challenge – last year I did the Welsh 3000’s (climbing the 15 mountains above 3000ft in 24 hours), basically I’m happy doing anything that gets me out and about.

 

What piece of clothing would you relegate to Room 101 ?

I was going to say shell-suits but couldn’t banish the 1980s childhood memories completely (rose-tinted spectacles I guess). Time and a place for everything I suppose.

 

If you could collaborate with one brand (Who you currently aren’t) who would it be and why?

I’m always keen to collaborate with brands where it can be a true partnership and make sense for both parties – John Smedley on Knitwear would be amazing. It’s also nice to think a little leftfield; Disney would be fun or I’d quite like to collaborate with a furniture designer or even product design.

What piece of style advise do you live by?

Layer up

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Spring/Summer 2013 Christopher Raeburn Menswear

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christopherraeburn.co.uk

 

 

 

 

Merry Christmas One and All From All at Clothes Make The Man

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As the message says Merry Christmas Everybody, but also we would like to wish you have a restful, relaxing and stress free Yuletide plus, health, happiness and good fortune in 2013. Many Thanks for joining us here at Clothes-make-the-man.com please continue joining us day in and day out. 2013 is going to be an interesting year, I promise.

 

Take care & good luck

Thank you

A.M.

Christmas all wrapped up, thanks to Stephanie Weightman

250x250Hardly anyone looks forward to wrapping their Christmas presents, and of that few that do get some odd perverse enjoyment from this, very few people are actually any good at it. In fact because of this fact the sale of decorated gift bags have sky rocketing in the last five years. Now as you all know by now we at Clothes Make The Man get great enjoyment out of making your life easier and so to finish off our essential guide to all things Christmassy we have sort the wrapping advice of an EXPERT. Yes, none other then QVC Presenter and all round Crafting Genius, yes and I don’t use that word freely, Stephanie Weightman ! Let me leave you in very skilled hands;

Wrapping Presents (Lo Res)

 

 

For more information on Stephanie or tips on Crafting go to Crafting.co.uk

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What do you buy the man who has everything ? (Personally, Nothing !)

250x250As we hurtle closer to the big day, there is always, that male relative who is especially hard to buy for, why ? Because he has everything !!!!! You ask him every year, what do you want for Christmas ? Or you think you have the perfect gift idea, until you see him with it already ! Arghhhhhhhh how infuriating it is year in year out, well no longer, hear me, no longer. We at Clothes make the man hear and feel your pain and so we got our thinking cap on because, well we are those men who have everything and we can empathise, because, well me know how hard we are to buy for, so here are some ideas, folks.

 

 

What better gift idea for the man who has everything other then SOCKS ! No not just any old sock the finest Cashmere socks from Patherella from the finest of Sock e-tailers. Richmondsocks.com

What better gift idea for the man who has everything other then SOCKS ! No not just any old sock the finest Cashmere socks from Patherella from the finest of Sock e-tailers. Richmondsocks.com

 

Like us all the Man who has everything DOES have down time and like us all is partial to a spot of LEGO. Hey, this isn't building a car or a house, oh no this is Architecture LEGO that has taken some of the finest examples of Modern Architecture and transported it to the world of the brick. See the Guggenheim Museum here, but you can also acquire the Sydney Opera House, The Empire State Building and  Burj Khalifa.

Like us all the Man who has everything DOES have down time and like us all is partial to a spot of LEGO. Hey, this isn’t building a car or a house, oh no this is Architecture LEGO that has taken some of the finest examples of Modern Architecture and transported it to the world of the brick. See the Guggenheim Museum here, but you can also acquire the Sydney Opera House, The Empire State Building and Burj Khalifa.

 

 

Mere mortal trainers like what we wear just don't cut the mustard. Check these bag boys out from Gucci, no less.

Mere mortal trainers like what we wear just don’t cut the mustard. Check these bag boys out from Gucci, no less.

 

The Man who has everything, finally will have when he unwraps this beauty from Parda come Christmas Morn.

The Man who has everything, finally will have when he unwraps this beauty from Prada come Christmas Morn.

 

Of Course, Smythsons of Bond St, personalised Stationery, an ideal gift, when one is stuck for what to get for that bligher !

Of Course, Smythson of Bond St, personalised Stationery, an ideal gift, when one is stuck for what to get for that bligher !

 

If you wish to share the same Tailor as 007 himself. Seek out the service of Designer extraordinaire Mr Tom Ford. Yes, you will have to dig deep into those perfectly bespoke pockets, but it'll be worth it, trust me.

If you wish to share the same Tailor as 007 himself. Seek out the service of Designer extraordinaire Mr Tom Ford. Yes, you will have to dig deep into those perfectly bespoke pockets, but it’ll be worth it, trust me.

 

You can't buy the man who has everything a simple off the shelf scent ! He can't be smelling the same as us plebs. Invest in a signature fragrance for him. Boutique fragrance house Miller Harris offer this service where they will literally create your own scent, specifically for you from your instructions and personally preferences.

You can’t buy the man who has everything a simple off the shelf scent ! He can’t be smelling the same as us plebs. Invest in a signature fragrance for him. Boutique fragrance house Miller Harris offer this service where they will literally create your own scent, specifically for you from your instructions and personally preferences.

 

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