CLOTHES MAKE THE MAN

I think its pretty damn fair to say the two most important races in the cycling calendar are the Giro d’Italia and the Tour de France, who both this year have something to shout about. Firstly, the Giro, which will be marking their 96th edition, which began in 1909, This year the events organisers, RCS Sport Cycling, have invited Sir Paul Smith, to design the leaders jerseys.

The four jerseys are, the Maglia Rosa is the jersey worn by the leader of the time general classification. The Red Jersey is worn by the leader of the points general classification. The Blue Jersey, is the symbol of the King of the Mountain classification leader and finally the White Jersey is worn by the best young rider in the general classification.

In addition to the British designer’s signature on the jerseys’ collar, the left sleeves will bear the iconic Paul Smith stripes as the hallmark of his work. The race started on 4th May with the Grand Departure in Naples. The riders will then face 21 stages finishing up on May 26th in Brescia. Paul said recently of this collaboration;

“I started cycling at the age of 12 and raced until I was 18. A bad crash put me in hospital for several months, after which I discovered the world of creativity, design and fashion and started my career, which luckily has progressed to what it is today.

During that period I have always followed cycling and have been privileged to meet many key riders, building friendships with Bradley Wiggins, Mark Cavendish, David Millar and many more. I also have a huge collection of jerseys from the 70s right up to current times, often signed by the riders.

With all this in mind, it was an absolute honour and delight to be asked to design the four jerseys for the Giro and I hope that the simple approach that I’ve made is acceptable to you all; putting red piping with the pink, cleaning all of the jerseys up to keep them as simple as possible and adding a little drawing of a cyclist by myself onto the jerseys.”

Then, we have the other European cycling powerhouse, The Tour de France, this year celebrating its centenary year and French Sports brand Le Coq Sportif have designed a unique jersey specifically for the 100th year of the tour. The 2013 yellow jersey or Maillot Jaune – is a symbol of this great, now international, bike race – brings innovation to the fore. The ever symbolic yellow of the jersey, even brighter this year, features a translucent « Moor’s Head » imprint on the main body of the jersey. This is a first, in recognition of the island – Corsica – which is to host the Grand Départ of the 100th Tour on 29th June.

Another special feature of this year’s race is the grand finish, which is to take place, for the first time, at night, inspiring le coq sportif to incorporate an array of reflective detail in the golden tunic.

Few films are guaranteed to effect trends in Menswear and even fewer before they even hit the cinema screens, OK James Bond is always a dead cert, but The Great Gatsby has almost been anticipated with baited breathe. The Original book by F Scott Fitzgerald, takes place in 1922, during the Roaring Twenties, a time of prosperity in the U. S., post World War I. The book received critical acclaim and is generally considered Fitzgerald’s best work. It is also widely regarded as a “Great American Novel” and a literary classic, capturing the essence of an era. The Modern Library named it the second best English language novel of the 20th century, amongst many of its accolades.

Over the years the book has been turned into a number of film versions for both the big and small screen, from a silent version in 1929, to probably the most famous interpretation starring Robert Redford and Mia Farrow. To a made for TV version in 2000 in which Toby Stephens & Mira Sorvino played the lead characters. But the latest incarnation is definitely the one creating the most attention, the vision for this Gatsby is in the Hands of Australian Director Baz Luhrmann (Romeo & Juliet and Moulin Rogue). Now here’s where the problems begin for me, although the aforementioned films are greats, Mr Luhrmann is also responsible for the dreadful Australia with Nicole Kidman and Hugh Jackman and that Chanel Ad with Ms Kidman, you know “I’m a dancer !” Also, and I can’t believe I’m doubting the work of the legendary Mr Carter, also known as Jay Z, who is responsible for the soundtrack. I say this, solely, because of the hideous cover by Mr Andre 3000 & Mrs Carter (Beyonce) who together have tortured the Amy Winehouse (RIP) classic “Back to Black”. Then, it managed to lure me back with another cover, this time a Jazzy 1920’s reworking of the Beyonce, work of genius “Crazy in Love” by the Scottish songbird Emeli Sandé, I know.

Now to the clothing, where to begin, the costumes for this lavish production have been handled by long time collaborator of Baz Luhrmann, in work and play, as they are a husband and wife team, Catherine Martin. For Luhrmann’s Gatsby, she sort a female silhouette, reflective of this era, which could only come from one Fashion house, Prada. Martin worked particularly close with Miuccia Prada to achieve a stunning result. So stunning is the final result on the silver screen, that the work of this collaboration can currently be seen up close and personal in an exhibition, at the Prada New York Epicentre on Broadway NYC, which then moves onto to both Tokyo and Shanghai.

For the male characters of the motion picture, Catherine Martin chose an American clothing institution, in it’s oldest retailer, Brooks Brothers.

“ Brooks Brothers is mentioned numerous times in Fitzgerald’s writings as a representation of the ultimate gentleman’s purveyor of fine clothing to the American man of distinction,” stated Catherine Martin. “It is this most basic and fundamental connection that has made our collaboration so authentic.”

Brooks Brothers were so impressed by Martin’s interpretation of their archive that they have release a limited edition collection inspired by the very film. The collaborative effort consists of formalwear and daywear, including tuxedos, tailored suits, suiting separates (sport coats, waist coats, and trousers), shirts, ties, shoes, and accessories, what more could a dapper gent need ? (See the behind the scenes video below)

But Brooks Brothers and Prada are not the only retailers to have been enthralled by the Gatsby Spell, literally everyone from Marks & Spencer to Harrods latest Summer 2013 Ad campaign have a little more then the Gatsby about them (See below).

Harrods campaign Summer 2013

Marks & Spencer Summer 2013

Brooks Brothers for the Great Gatsby Summer 2013

OK before I launch into today’s post, I have to stress, I am not about to moan, I promise you. But, in this line of business you are asked to attend alot of things. Things including meals at Posh Eateries, parties, even trips abroad for launches, I can hear your groans already, along with the violins, yeah yeah I deserve it. Anyway, the point I’m trying to make is, when you have been in this game as long as I have and when you have been asked to as much as I have, lets just say the novelty wore off a long time ago. So when I was asked to visit a new Haberdasery, of a Savile Row Tailor, I had certain preconceptions and it was only down to the friendship I have with the PR that I agreed.

Now, I, like I am sure a lot of you guys have certain presumptions when you hear the words Savile Row, Stuffy, Pricey, Oo Suits you sir, the list goes on. All I can say about the Anderson & Sheppherd Haberdashery(actually on Clifford St parallel with Savile Row) is, that I was proved wrong. YES I admit it, I was wrong and I’ll even go as far to say, I was wrong on pretty much all of my biases.

The store genuinely offers a carefully curated collection of trousers, shirts, knitwear, swimwear, ties, belts, hats, and other accessories for the thoughtfully stylish man, honest. The emporium is overseen by Audie Charles, the longtime right-hand woman of the legendary London tailor Doug Hayward. Who explained to me, “Doug lived above his shop, and, eventually, his flat sort of crept into the shop,”

She best summed up the thinking behind the concept as, “The haberdashery is meant to be like that: welcoming, like someone’s Mayfair home. The scarves and sweaters are not behind some glass front. We encourage people to pick them up and play with them, to get the full tactile experience.”

The attention to detail is sublime, no thought has been overlooked, from the warmest of welcomes once you walk in through the door, to the light and airy environment, some what against convention, to the equally warm exit you receive that ensures you want to return, even for just a nosey around.

Virtually everything in the haberdashery is exclusive to Anderson & Sheppard and has been sourced from the British Isles, whether fisherman’s sweaters from Ireland, knitwear from Scotland, or cabled shooting socks from Cornwall. And Clifford Street is proudly unseasonal, offering heavy woollens and light weight knits, all year-’round, so that no matter where you live or might be about to holiday, Anderson & Sheppard will have what you’re looking for—in stock, ready to go.

First-time Anderson & Sheppard visitors are made as welcome at Clifford Street establishment. The front sitting room, with its muted music and beautiful fireplace, offers refuge from the bustle of the outside world, while a corridor leads back to the airy, gloriously skylit room where most of the merchandise is displayed. Visitors are encouraged to linger, have a drink from the bar, and settle into the TV room at the back.

Plus, with handkerchiefs costing as little as £10 and neckties starting at £40, the haberdashery has something appealing for every man, Audie, who I now feel I’ve known all my life, wants it to be, “A familiar destination: a place you come to whenever you’re in town.”

The very first Advertising campaign from Lacoste back in 1933

Bonjour Style Trekers and welcome to a, particularly Gallic post today to celebrate an amazing milestone in the history of an exceptional brand. So without further ado, Happy Birthday Lacoste ! or Joyeaux Anniversaire for you linguistic sticklers. So what you gonna do for your birthday crocodile ?

Well, a whole host of celebrating 80 years of evolution, revisiting, reinventing and renewing of glamour, essentially.

It all started on a tennis court in 1933 when French tennis champion René Lacoste, or “the Crocodile” performed viva la revolution of men’s fashion by replacing the classical woven, long-sleeved starched shirt with a light and comfortable short-sleeved one in airy petit piqué fabric, better known today as the classic LACOSTE polo shirt.

Authenticity, audacity, empathy and a certain “joie de vivre”
inherited from the 30s are the four pillars that made LACOSTE a successful worldwide fashion brand. Today the iconic Croc insignia has more than 1160
boutiques throughout 110 countries, selling two items every second !!!!

Yes, all good and well, but what are the brand going to do to celebrate this historic event ? Well, first in the series of projects is, EDITION – a capsule collection of classic iconic Lacoste items inspired by images taken from the archive.

Next up we have, the Custom Polo shirt, the brand has created 12 very special limited edition custom polo kits, which, lets face it are bound for collectors item status. So throughout 2013, Lacoste will propose each month one custom polo kit, distributed exclusively in an F-Store available on the LACOSTE Facebook page (Facebook.com/Lacoste). Fans will have the opportunity to customise a white L.12.12 polo shirt using different techniques such as coloring, sewing, embroidery, flocking or graffiti.

Talk about saving the best for last and personally my favourite of the projects. Lacoste to commemorate 80 stylish years, invited the celebrated British designer Peter Saville, yes the same man responsible for designing some of the most memorable album covers EVER, including Closer by Joy Division, Happy Mondays’ Pills, Thrills and Bellyaches and responsible for designing the Identity logo to the best city in the UK, Manchester. Saville was asked to create a symbol to represent this milestone in the Brand’s history. Peter, of course, successfully rose to the challenge with a specially crafted 80th Anniversary Logo.

The resulting motif elegantly epitomises 80 years of Lacoste history with a contemporary vision. Peter worked alongside Lacoste Creative Director, Felipe Oliveira Baptista and Lacoste Design Director, Christophe Pillet to translate his celebratory configuration of circles forming a symbolic ‘80’ numeral which is designed to frame a multiplicity of visual content.

Ahhhhh thats what you need, first thing of a Morning, a press release dropping into your in-tray, which evokes a, “Hello There !” moment. That sure as hell happened with this lil gem. TENT by Esther Porter , offers a collection of British designed, utilitarian outdoor bags.

Now then, the beauty and USP, excuse the marketing crap, of TENT is, all the bags are made from a combination of, get ready for this, recycled tent fabric (reclaimed from summer music festivals of yesteryear, so when you were wetter then a British Summer holiday after the mud bath that was Glastonbury, Reading or even Coachella, sorry what on earth am I thinking). British rubber-bonded cotton canvas for increased water resistance and durability, equestrian-grade cotton webbing in the straps for comfort, and nickel hardware for strength, what a combination !

This season, TENT introduces a new backpack style in addition to their signature barrel, holdall, satchel and rucksacks. The backpack is simply constructed, boxy in shape and inspired by military bags, cycle-panniers and dive wet-bags. It features a fold-over style that keeps things secure and waterproofed. Plus, new colours include; sky blue, sandy-khaki, golden yellow and soft grey. Finished to the highest standards in terms of technical properties, fabric and appearance the final product remains minimal, refined, practical and hardwearing.

CLOTHES MAKE THE MAN

What winning jersey will you be wearing – Giro d’Italia or The Tour de France ???

Lets hope for the Great Gatsby rather then the Not so Great Gatsby !

This is no Ye Olde Curiosity Shop – Anderson & Sheppherd Haberdashery

Heureux Quatre-Vingtième Anniversaire Lacoste de Vêtements-Font-le-Man.com OR Happy Eightieth Birthday Lacoste from Clothes-Make-the-Man.com

And here’s one I made earlier – TENT Bags

TENT by Esther Porter Spring 2013 Bag collection

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