Ask the Experts – Creative Directors Top Spring Buys

Yes it’s freezing outside and the nights don’t seem to be getting any shorter. Ahhh that can only mean one thing, it’s has to be the start of Spring in the retailer’s calendar. So to celebrate this stylish solstice we’ve crossed many a dangerous road, past countless unhelpful shop assistants and fought our way through many a ferocious PR to seek the wise counsel of a select number of the most creative minds behind some of the leading, and not to mention favourite, style brands to answer the question of, “What is your must have piece of the season ?”

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‘It is a lightweight and soft spring coat in easy volume, and features understated artwork inspired by late minimal artist Jan Schoonhoven’s amazing work. The artwork is not printed on the fabric but woven in a jacquard weave and from a little distance just looks like a texture but up close is made up of tactile and hand drawn lines.’

Martin Andersson, Head of Menswear Design at COS

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‘My absolute fave is the beige mac – it epitomises Whistles men for me, in that it is functional, modern, the fabric and make are of the highest quality, and it will last forever and get even better with age..’

Jane Shepherdon, CEO WHISTLES.

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‘My favourite piece from SS16 is the taped khaki bomber. It’s a hero piece of the collection and is a perfect update of a classic shape for the emerging streetwear military trend.’

James Lawrence, ASOS Head of Menswear Design

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image“My favourite piece from Spring 16 is the Heritage trench coat in stone colour. I Love the idea of a classic icon updated with innovative fabric and details. The fabric is a blend of cotton and metal giving the surface a unique texture and character”

Michael Anderson, Vice President, Men’s Product and Design, Banana Republic

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‘I love the Topman Design all over print revere shirt as it sums up the whole collection in one piece. The patches represent the spirit and ethos of the northern soul scene which was our starting point for the whole collection with a bit of a punk element thrown in for good measure.’
Gordon Richardson, Creative Director, TOPMAN.29_gordonrichardson1

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“This season, Jigsaw menswear is all about style rather than trend-driven with texture and fabric interest giving our collection a real point of difference. Marled and tonal colour variation appropriate to the fabric gives the collection more light and shade. My hero piece for the season is our double-breasted, unlined jacquard suit in indigo. Crafted and tailored in Portugal, it is cut on our popular ‘Bloomsbury’ block but is lightly structured with artist’s linen canvas under the collar.”

Frances Walker, Design Director, Jigsaw Menswear

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Be whisked off to Tuscany with Jo Malone – Orris & Sandalwood Cologne Intense by Jo Malone London

imageSurely an offer to good too be true, well unfortunately, yes it is. I know, I know and particularly when the weather gauge seems to have been slammed to Arctic conditions, I shouldn’t tease you. But what you can do is metaphorically slip away to the relaxing and Sareen oasis that is Tuscan countryside, with the new Cologne Intense by Jo Malone London, Orris & Sandalwood. A wonderful new scent which has the surprising duality of orris. Woody and floral. Powdery and deep. The scent of Tuscan hillsides with irises in bloom. Orris’ woody intensity wrapped in creamy sandalwood and sensual amber. Steeped in sunshine. Captivating and compelling, see you could almost be there.

Master Perfumer of the new fragrance, Pierre Négrin, who has in the past been responsible for iconic fragrances from such houses as Calvin Klein, Donna Karan and Ralph Lauren, says of his creation, “We wanted to work with orris because it’s an extremely precious ingredient in perfumery. Orris is the root of the iris plant and it has been harvested in Tuscany for centuries, originally by monks.This scent was about framing the orris to bring out its unique duality; it is both woody and powdery, floral and deep. We achieved this by using other woods as well as painting a picture of the iris flower itself.”

She’s a dedicated follower of Fashion – Lou Dalton X River Island Design Forum

imageThe venues of LC:M were barely cold after the excitement and throngs of stylish and creative folk and while a certain key British Designer was showing her Autumn/Winter 2016 collection, to rave reviews, I may hasten to add, a collaborative collection she had worked on prior was just hitting the stores and website of River Island. The designer in question, is Lou Dalton, the latest Great British luxury brand to work with the River Island Design Forum.

Synonymous with an impressive attention to detail and contemporary aesthetic, Dalton has established herself as a leading light of British Menswear who has the ability to develop exceptional well crafted garments that are both considered and thought provoking.

This collection draws inspiration from photographer Perry Ogden’s book ‘Pony Kids’ and films such as The Rat Catcher and The Selfish Giant, they all tell the stories of working-class children developing personal and working relationships with horses. Lou say of this collaboration;

“I’M A SUCKER FOR DETAIL AND FINISH AND IT WAS INCREDIBLY IMPORTANT THAT WE TRIED TO CAPTURE THIS THROUGHOUT THE CAPSULE COLLECTION. WORKING WITH SUCH A GREAT COMPANY LIKE RIVER ISLAND ALLOWED US NOT TO HAVE TO COMPROMISE, ALLOWING US TO DELIVER AN END PRODUCT THAT WAS A THOUGHTFUL ECLECTIC RANGE OF CLOTHING FOR THAT MODERN DAY FELLA”.

The 13 piece collection consisting of outerwear and tailoring infuse the modern with tradition and are among the hero pieces within the range, including a navy/ blue mesh technical Mac with nylon sleeves and oversized zip-pockets creates a modern contrast of texture and colour. Classic tailoring is highlighted in the navy twill blazer and trouser, which can be teamed with the white mixed panel shirt to create a smart separates look.

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Our Picks of the Collaboration

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London Collections Men – Highlights – Autumn/Winter 2016

This season sees the eighth London Collections:Men, somewhat of a testament to the standard, continual and ever increasing quality that has become part and parcel of the diverse showcase that now brings followers from the four corners of the globe.

However, a rather long shadow was cast on the last day of the proceedings, as we woke to hear the news that the thin White Duke, David Bowie, had been taken from us, all too early. Many of the creatives involved in LC:M cite Bowie as a great inspiration not only to their collections but to their career.

Moving on, this season we took the decision of rather than myself and the team giving you their opinions and musings on the shows, collections and trends that we witnessed for Autumn/Winter 16, we’ve decided to cast our net further and ask the views of some of the leading creative lights on what many believe to be the most creatively interesting city and Fashion weeks on the planet. We lets get underway. First off

edward crutchley“Edward Crutchley really stood out for me with a collection based on his Yorkshire roots. With a mix of beautiful traditional textiles and flowing oversize streetwear shapes I am excited to see what is to come next form this new face on the LCM scene.”

Eilidh Greig, Fashion Editor ShortList

Coach“London Collections is going from strength to strength, and the diversity is reflected throughout LCM. If I had to choose one overall favourite show this would probably be Coach, a masculine collection that included reimagined and wearable but luxurious items influenced from the streets of New York and retaining a sense of individuality that makes the label one of my favourites at the moment.”

Gary Kingsnorth, Fashion Editor, Coach Magazine and Editor, www.thestyleking.com

 

image“I really enjoyed JW Anderson’s show. The colour palette was pretty varied meaning you had camel and khaki green one minute, drifting into baby pink and off white the next. The outerwear was particularly strong with full length top coats in those aforementioned colours, as well as a brilliant, furry overcoat in pristine cream that looked like you could have crawled inside it and spent the rest of your life sleeping warm and soundly.”

Matt Hambly, Style Editor, Mens Health UK

dunhill“For me the highlight show of LCM this season was Dunhill. The setting of the presentation, a private members club in Mayfair, was a decedent backdrop for a collection of perfectly tailored evening wear, an innovative yet true to brand offering of daywear that is as much for the true Dunhill man as it is for new adopters of the brand. Dunhill, I think, even win the award for the best casting of the season.”

Dan Hasby OliverEditor & Founder of LastStyleofdefense.com

1205“1205 is my favourite collection. It wasn’t a ‘wow’ show in itself but every piece was just super wearable. It was understated and very versatile – you know you would just live in it”.

Jessica Punter, Style & Grooming Editor, British GQ

image“Bullseye! LCM hit it right in the you know where this time round. So much “newness” – is that a word – and so much promise for the seasons ahead.

Charles Jeffrey and the MAN kids killed it for me.

But then I got to Margaret Howell (pictured) and I saw the familiar replayed and worked up into best-mate pieces you can rely on. Wardrobe wing men if you like: those two beautiful Argyle knits; the wide (but not too wide as to be silly) trousers and a duffle coat I want to have babies with.”

Richard Gray, Creative & Fashion Director, Sunday Times Style

image“Topman goes 70’s grunge. Autumnal shades of oranges and brown. crushed velvet suits, velvet devore gowns, silk satin wide leg trousers. Cropped chevron print harrington jackets, printed silky longline shirts under grungy bobbly knits, faded shredded denims and Converse style footwear with slouchy beanies.”

Lee Holden, Leading Menswear Stylist & Image Consultant

image“Ooh, tough. Could I have two. Margaret Howell and Christopher Raeburn?(pictured) Howell for never feeling the need to reinvent the wheel. Just beautiful, quality classics always calmly presented in her Wigmore St store. Styling macs that will keep you dry. Raeburn for taking military and not making costume. Even his finale showpieces were clearly referenced from military clothing.”

Marcus Agerman Ross, editor-in-chief of Jocks&Nerds magazine

image“I really liked Katie Eary! (Pictured) Loved the prints and the pyjama robe combo.
And Richard James, it’s always a solid good show and I would wear most of the collection.”
Robert Konjic, Male Supermodel & LC:M Commitee member

imageE. Tautz’s catwalk show at showcased an excellently put together collection drawing inspiration from 1980’s Edinburgh roller disco scene which maybe and unlikely source for a Savile Row Tailor, that didn’t phase Patrick Grant whatsoever”.

Harry Bradbury,  Contributing Style Editor, Clothes-Make-the-Man.com

image“The duo have done it again, with a more maturecollection continuing on from the past few seasons they have showcased. Agi Mdumulla and Sam Cotton let loose, literally, with a collection built on roomy silhouettes, elongated proportions, and rich Italian fabrics. Trousers were broad and swooshed as models paraded, while coats were rounded at the shoulder and roomy with utility pockets. The earthy palette consisted of mud brown, army green and navy – with minimal pattern, except for small checks that popped on a long coat with a shearling collar”.

Keanu Adorable, Contributing Style EditorClothes-Make-the-Man.com

imageOK so we come to my opinion, I think we saved the best for last as this has to be the season of Lou Dalton. She showed her signiture collection off, inspired by the Shetland Islands, a home away from home for Lou. Men, nature, history, and beauty all came together in the rich fabrics and practical designs. Silhouettes were slouched and unfussy, with baggy trousers and soft-shouldered, rich flannel outwear playing key roles. Always understated improves every season ! While this was going on her Collaboation with River Island’s Design Forum launched and if that wasn’t enough, this busy lady was launching another co-venture, this time for Autumn 16, this time with Jaeger.

The Best of LC:M -Textual Conversation

As you loyal and ardent followers of our musings will know every season, at LC:M time we profile a different designer/brand/consortium. However, we like to keep you on your toes and mix things up, so this season rather than concentrate on profiling one, we thought stuff it ! Let’s catch up with TEN of, not only, the best that LC:M have to offer but also leading lights in the menswear field that we love what they are currently doing. So keep it up chaps ! 

imageGordon Richardson for TOPMAN Design
What inspires you ?

People who go against the odds who swim upstream. Pioneers in all walks of life from ancient explorers to modern entrepreneurs. People who through their beliefs and endeavours have changed the pace of life.

imageRichard James

Tell us something no one else knows?
If you make suits, you can only call yourself a tailor if you work for yourself. If you’re employed by someone else you’re a cutter.

imageLou Dalton

Who would be your ideal diner guest ?
At this moment in time the love of my life Justin Haigh, we haven’t been in each others company for a while due to the show. Within the public eye, from the past Princess Margaret, from the present David Hockney, both colourful souls with many a story to tell I’m sure.

imageOliver Spencer

Have you ever bought a piece of clothing and regretted it ?
Yes, A Yohji Yamamoto shirt, it was too big and made me look like a chef.

imageMarc Hare

If you could only wear one brand for the rest of your life who would it be ?
Bauhaus. Because they were trying to just make the world better and the mix of modernism and traditional craft just created great products by default. I bet their sneakers would have been ill.

imageChristopher Raeburn

If you could give your teenage self advice, what would it be?
I wish I’d happened across Fischli and Weiss advise on work a little earlier so I’d probably ask myself to have a quick read:
1.Do one thing at a time

2.Know the problem

3.Learn to listen

4.Learn to ask questions

5.Distinguish sense from nonsense

6.Accept change as inevitable

7.Admit mistakes

8.Say it simple

9.Be calm

  1. Smile

 

imageSimon Carter
What piece of clothing would you relegate to Room 101?

Baseball caps

imageJoe Casely Hayford

What track would always get you on the dance floor ?
I’m a dancing machine (in my head) there are too many tracks to even consider; this changes daily. Today it’s The Invisible “Wings” remixed by Floating Points.

imagePatrick Grant

What piece of clothing should everyman have in his wardrobe ?
A handmade grey flannel suit

imageJason Basmajian for Gieves & Hawkes
If you could have invented anything what would it be ?
Concorde – I love to travel fast