London Collections: Men Highlights – Spring/Summer 2016

Lou Dalton

Lou Dalton

Jeez where does the time go, we’re already half way through the year and yet another LC:M is upon us. It was promised to be the biggest, the best and drawing attention from all over the globe, now seen as a permanent and favourite fashion fixture on the style calendar, did it live up to expectations ?

Well things kicked off in a grand but intimate style. Grand in setting at the Shangri-La hotel, part of the AMAZING Shard building. Intimate, as Sir Paul Smith was in conversation with Deyan Sudjic of the Design Museum, discussing amongst other things, how he became Big in Japan and how he sustains that success.

Katie Eary

Katie Eary

We then move into more traditional activities akin to LC:M and who said women can’t design Menswear, let’s first make it very clear, I certainly didn’t as two ladies of menswear definitely put that theory to rest this season. Both Lou Dalton & Katie Eary delivered the collections of their careers, to date. Both went for it in the colour stakes one a little more muted than the other but both like a multi coloured locomotive first stopping at the most stylish festival you could ever want to attend and then onto the tripped out, My Little Pony gymkhana.

Coach

Coach

But it wasn’t just the girls playing with colour for Spring/Summer 2016, a whole host of Shiny Happy People came out to play. Stuart Vevers over at US brand Coach mixed up animal prints with Fluro hues and managed the near impossible in doing it a desirable way. Then you had Henry Holland, for his first menswear outing for his House of Holland brand offering a straight to store exclusive to Selfridges. Unmistakably Henry and of course with a little help from his friends in the shapely form of Alexa Chung, Pixie Geldof, Daisy Lowe and new judge Nick Grimshaw.

Sibling

Sibling

Keeping up the fun factor were urban collective Sibling, giving their unique take on Americana and Baartmans and Siegel with their take on the gritty open planes of North America.

Hardy Amies

Hardy Amies

Nevertheless, it wasn’t just about colour in London, the fashion capital is probably best known, thanks to its Savile Row heritage, for its tailors and their second to none tailoring skills. This was not only evident at the Jermyn Street Catwalk Show, showcasing the best in British brand including Turnbull & Asser, Jigsaw Menswear and Barbour. But outstanding collections were offered for our delectation by Gieves & Hawkes and Duchamp, on the traditional end of the spectrum and Richard James and Alexander McQueen on a more out there vibe.

Oliver Spencer

Oliver Spencer

Now, I’m afraid I have some bad news for all of you guys partial to your skinny jeans, basically, bin them, chuck ,em out, throw them away as they are no longer in favour with the world of fashion. Actually, think the absolute opposite of skinny jeans. Everyone from TOPMAN, who used the 1970’s as their main source of inspiration. Patrick Grant for his E.Tautz brand chose to channel a more 1950’s silhouette and a slightly more restrained, utilitarian Oliver Spencer all opted for a loose fit.

E.Tautz

E.Tautz

Lastly we have Belstaff and Christopher Raeburn who sort the height of masculinity as the backdrop for their collections, in that of military. Whether thats camouflage, used in that way that only Raeburn can manage to do or more desert force as Belstaff.

Belstaff

Belstaff

The Clothes-Make-the-Man team’s favourite shows from LC:M

Keanu Adorable, Contributor –  Maharishi

“Maharishi was an experience, not only through the clothes, but also through the music. The mix prayer of chants and grime gave the pieces more context.”

Elliott Parsons, Contributor – Agi & Sam 

My favourite show has to be Agi & Sam. Their combination of utility and stylised layering with those lovely overcoats was unmatched in my opinion.” 

Anthony McGrath – Editor – Katie Eary & Lou Dalton

“I’m sorry I can’t decide between to two ladies of British Mens Fashion. Both were equally colourful, fun and both turned the dial to maximum warp, in offering us the best collections of their career to date. Excellent ladies, keep up the good work.”

Party like it cost 19.99 – Essential advice if you’re attending a Prom

BIG DON’T’s FOR DRESSING ON PROM NIGHT

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Prom night is no longer the remit of the all American fairy tale, good overcoming evil, Taylor Swift music video, you know. Gone is the idea of it being reminiscent of cheesy films the like of ‘Grease’ or ‘High School Musical’, depending on your age. Proms are BIG business now with more than 85 per cent of schools in Britain holding these events even though the prom season is relatively short: only six-eight weeks from mid-May to mid-July. Yet the business is estimated to be worth about £100 million to retailers.  The average cost was £244 per person, with one in 10 spending more than £500 and two per cent splashing out more than £1,500, according to a survey carried out last year by hotel chain Holiday Inn.

Proms are a BIG deal and create lasting memories, it’s not just girls that need to look and feel their best. We live in an age of equality and guys want and need to look more chic than geek on their big night.

We sort some expert advice to assist you in looking your most dapper best, from John Mooney, Menswear Design Director, of Asos. You couldn’t really look for a more leading name than Asos when it comes to ensuring demands are met for male consumers wanting to look stylish at events of this nature. John let us in on a couple of golden nuggets of advice for you to follow, so listen up;

  • Styling tips to look your best on Prom night ?
  • Be comfortable, don’t go pretending to be someone you’re not, it generally fails and everyone can see through the façade. So keep it simple and don’t over style it. Do a bit of research and get an understanding of what prom means…it doesn’t have to be pastel tuxedos and ruffle front shirts.
  • When going for a Prom suit should you go Traditional or Contemporary ? 
  • Again you need to be true to your own style, there’s no point turning up dressed like you’ve just walked off the Saint Laurent catwalk if you generally wear v-neck knits and chinos and ever so slightly pointy brogues. However I think a comfortable balance can work really well, is a tux jacket and skinny black jeans appropriate, yes I think it probably is.

 

  • Any no no’s to stay clear from ? 
  • For some reason I have Jim Carey in dumb and dumber in my head….. The pastel tux’s…… Anything that looks like fancy dress is a no.
  • Your Top suit buy for the big night ? 
  • Buy something you’ll use again…. No one wants to be buying a suit that will just occupy space in your wardrobe and never see the light of day, make a sensible purchase…. Can you wear it again, how versatile is it, what else can you put it with. We have a vast range of suits and blazers at asos…. Personally I love this little cropped blazer we currently have in stock, can be dressed up with a slightly cropped trousers and lingline shirt or down with skinny jeans and t-shirt:

 Asos Prom

  • Tips/recommendations for those shopping for a suit with a budget ? 
  • Spend that extra £20 getting the suit altered, it really does make the difference, do a bit a research, find your best local alterations workshop [lots of info on blogs etc] and get the sleeves taken up [always show a bit of cuff], back taken in and trousers take  up…. Don’t be shy of a crop…. It can make all the difference and gets you closer to the bespoke look [well almost!]

 

  • Is it a good idea to co-ordinate with your date?
  • What, like Posh and Becks in leather……. in a word, no!

OUR TOP 10 DO’s for DRESSING ON PROM NIGHT

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1) Versatility – As John says, don’t go for a suit you’ll never wear again. Ever man could have a decent Blue suit as part of his repertoire and this 3pcs from Asos is an excellent example. Wear it together or break it up into pieces, key word with this suit is versatile.

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2) Classic – If it ain’t broke don’t mend it, there’s a lot  to be said for this phrase and there is nothing wrong with going classic on Prom night but ensure you don’t look like you’re wearing your Dad’s tux or you’ve hired it too late and they didn’t have your size left. As John advises get your suit altered to you by a reputable local tailor.

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3) Matching isn’t a must – You don’t have to go all out on a full on suit for the occasion. Remember don’t try and be something your not. Go for a great blazer and team it up with your favourite jeans, if it’ll make you feel more relaxed and confident.

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4) Traditional doesn’t have to be boring – As long as your follow the advice given in the today’s post you can’t go wrong. Make sure you go for a more contemporary fit, as offer by the likes of Asos. Fit is all important as it improves your posture therefore making you stand straight which it turn gives off a more confident air.

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5) Why does it have to be Dark – It’s your Prom not a funeral, lighten the mood with this great light, unstructured Summer suit. Proms happen in Summer, break from tradition, no one could say this look was casual, but team it with a tee and even sneakers and you be cool in every way possible.

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6) Ohhhh Velvet – Channel that inner playboy and let Hugh Hefner be your style icon for this look. A Velvet jacket is a great way of adding a bit of colour to your outfit without it getting too carried away. It always looks chic and this one by Red Eleven is a perfect example.

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7) Being Single isn’t always great on Prom Night – If the suit fits then wear it ! The Double breasted is back and hey it’s looking good. This is an amazing example from Antony Morato, the only hesitation I would have is if you are of a larger frame, like myself, DB isn’t always particularly flattering.

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8) Dont be a Wall Flower – as we’ve said, it’s your Prom not a funeral, so enjoy it ! You don’t have to follow the crowd, go for something a little different from the norm and this Peter Werth suit sums it all up. Not so different and its screaming look at me, but different and stylish enough to ensure you look the part.

image9) Investment buys – We’ve mentioned a couple of times about, ensuring that if you make a suiting purchase for Prom Night, making sure it doesn’t gather dust at the back of your wardrobe, think investment. I LOVE this suit, not only is it 3 pcs, which is not only on trend at the moment but more versatile. Plus, Tweed is going nowhere as a trend, if you look after this suit it will look after you, long into your old age. A piece you’ll just keep wearing and wearing.

image10) Wear it with confidence – Yes I know we’ve been banging on about versatility and investment pieces, but if you want to make a statement at your Prom, look no further than Noose & Monkey, the brother brand brand to Without Prejudice. As long as you have the confidence and swag to carry it off, they can tailor for your need, without having to take a second job to pay for it.

It’s a fond farewell to the Stylish Mad Men of Sterling Cooper

When God closes a door he opens a dress.” – Roger Sterling.

Yes after seven wonderfully stylish seasons we bid a bereft farewell and enter a solem period of mourning, of course looking chic in black with a cigarette in one hand and a whiskey in the other, for Don, Peggy, Roger and of course, who could forget Joan, ahhhhh Joan, now there’s a woman ! Yes, the four time Emmy-winning show, Mad Men came to an end last night, starting in the 1960’s, surely we have never seen such a sartorial leading TV series as this ? Showcase the cut and thrust of the heady world of Advertising. We watched events play out and were often reminded of just what a bizarre and alien world the 60s really were, the death of Marilyn Monroe, J.F. Kennedy’s assassination, the Vietnam War and the rise of The Beatles.

As a homage to celebrate the end of what has been a revolutionary show, those equally suave people over at STYLIGHT have created profiles of the main five characters which reveal their dual personalities and delve into the hidden facts that you may not have known.image

Take it easy on yourself – ABOUT Loungewear

imageAn underwear and Loungewear brand isn’t the first thing that springs to mind when you think of Lithuania, in fact thermal underwear under lots of layers of clothes is probably more accurate. But ABOUT has been producing top grade underwear for over 45 years. ABOUT pride themselves on their Baltic heritage and being an innovative underwear brand that, creates for everyone who sees beauty in function and comfort in cuts & materials. This wellness-motivated product range is designed to smart customers and combines the latest technological possibilities and the sense of zeitgeist in design trends.

Their latest innovative range all share healing and sensitive properties including;
· Natural properties of AloeVera
· Moisturizing and soothing properties typical of aloe plant
· Which helps remove and absorb body moisture
· Suitable for sensitive skin
· Hygienic

imageThis fabric for this range was specially made for the ABOUT Trend collection and enriched with /AloeVera/, which is known for its anti-irritation and antibacterial qualities. Garments enriched with this finishing are noted for their moisturizing and soothing properties typical of the aloe plant.

This range is perfect in keeping with ABOUT’s brand ethos which excel in ensuring everyday use and specific needs in wearing underwear – their products are designed with a function in mind. All the time with the modern combination of comfortable to move, functional style and innovative qualities of their products.

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Somewhere only we know – John Lewis Menswear

imageThe Department Store John Lewis is probably better known for their excellent Christmas tear jerking Adverting campaigns rather than as a Menswear Destination. But over recent seasons they’ve been working really rather hard to change this perception, back in February 2013 the retailer launched it’s Family brand KIN, designed to appeal to those thirty plus men who appreciate quality, clean-cut tailoring at a competitive price. The collection was John Lewis’ most contemporary own brand formalwear offering. Since then the brand and its Menswear offering has moved on a great deal.

imageFor Spring 2015,  its once again upping it’s menswear fashion credentials, adding to its existing portfolio through expanding its contemporary branded offering and  new exclusive additions to its menswear portfolio. This includes, LAUNDRYMAN by Barbour, inspired by Barbour’s heritage in industrial work wear, the Laundryman capsule brings together shirts, chinos, hoodies and tees, all with a heavily laundered finish and an on-trend distressed look. For this season, Barbour Laundryman will be exclusively available from John Lewis stores.

Plus, Bellerose which offers premium clothing for the entire family with authentic brand values. From military parkas to leather brogues and tees, the collection creates a casual and unique allure with strong references to the army and work wear.

Additional, to these two exclusive collections, the department store have invested in some interesting imageniche Scandinavian Brands like RAINS and Wood Wood. These collections are influenced by street wear and have a strong focus on detail that brings a twist to classic menswear items. Then to complement these brands John Lewis is also supporting fledgling T-shirt brands Dedicated, Supreme Being and Secret Store & Pear Shaped Apparel.

Lastly, having just shown during the recent LC:M, the retailer welcomes Soulland,  A brand with real design principles and an aesthetics with its origins in Scandinavian artisanship combined with a contemporary feel that aims to push menswear forward in all the right directions.

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