Style Archives - Page 19 of 38 - CLOTHES MAKE THE MAN

Spring has sprung, finally, or at least that’s what the Great British High Street’s Retailers are telling us, even if nobody has bother to tell the Great British weather that it needs to buck its ideas up. One common thread that we are seeing emerge from the vast majority of High Street brands is the colour blue whether that be plain and simple Navy, or the more adventurous Electric Blue to the summery tone of turquoise like its high end designer counterparts they have drawn inspiration from every shade possible and put it into shorts, knits, shirts, jackets, socks and underwear for this season. Plus, the retailers on the whole have really smartened their ideas up for this season showing us in a great and stylish way how to wear that all important Smart Casual look for Spring.

Marks & Spencer pushing the boat out with this suit that is perfect for a Spring Wedding or can be worn highly effectively separately.

Really getting their act together with their Menswear is New Look

Mix and matching it up for a timeless Spring look is Ted Baker

Patrick Grant’s Hammonds & Co range for Debenhams is going from strength to strength season upon season.

River Island showing us Blue isn’t just for formal wear and mixing it up for that essential smart casual look

Burton showing a real contemporary look for Spring it look both wearable and aspirational to boot.

We arrive in the final destination on our round up of the male Fashion weeks for Autumn/Winter 2015. Bonjour Paris and we start the proceedings off with a brand not short on that certain Je ne said quoi, yes Louis Vuitton and what a way to start. Kim Jones just seems to be going from strength to strength during his tenure with the Luxury Power house. He drew his inspiration this season, on a personal hero, in the shape of British Designer Christopher Nemeth who was relatively unknown outside of Japan. He interpreted four of Nemeth’s signature prints and at the same time managed to work them expertly into the Vuitton aesthetic, that only he could have achieved to such a high level. Once again leaving everyone, a baited for next season to see what magic he may conjure.

Next up, onto a designer who left me agog with the beauty of his collection, Junya Watanabe, who based the look of his Autumn/Winter 2015 collection on the sub culture of the ‘sappers’ the nattily dressed gentlemen from the Congo. Think, those immaculately dressed dandies of 1930’s Harlem in their Sunday Best fit for Church and an audience with God himself. Nonetheless, this was no retro obsessed collection, this was modernity personified.

Then to Riccardo Tisci’s Givenchy, we saw a departure from the sweatshirts and Tees which have made the Fashion brand such a favourite of the likes of Professor Green through to Kanye West in recent years and a move towards the formal roots of the Parisian house. However, this was a dark and eerie at time unnerving presentation by Tisci and the Devil was literally in the detail.

Madison Kitsune

Paul & Joe

Ami may not have the heritage of some of the other players on the Paris schedule but it nonetheless delivers and leaves you wanting to run backstage and put an order in with them there and then, not having to wait 6 or so months before it hits the stores and websites. It offers impeccably desirable clothes that you just want. Another French brand able to entice us with such wearable and interesting ranges is Carven offering up a more boxy and sculpted silhouette this season. Relative new comers are Maison Kitsune the duo of Masaya Kuroki and Gildas Loaec, think of this like a pseudoFrench Alban, where they leave you wanting literally every piece from the collection from suiting to Tote bag. The thing all these brands have in common is their comforting lack of avant garde, there is no danger you may need the lookbook just to know have to wear an outfit from these brands but you can rest assure you still know, you look the bis when wearing their wares. This is the same with Paul & Joe, this is not a tricksy brand, where from season to season you’re not quite sure what you might see or get from them. This is a true bastion of wearable apparel.

Kris Van Assche for Dior Homme, seemed to run his show in reverse this season opting to start the presentation with formal attire in tuxedos in various forms then moving between smart and smart casual throughout. Mixing that juxtaposition of high formal then throwing in denim, a baseball cap, trainers or maybe even all three, just because he can.

Next we have the Luxury house of Luxury Houses, Hermes offering a Masterclass in the modern male’s wardrobe and what it SHOULD contain for every possible eventuality, whether that be a business meeting or what to wear for that all important down time, Veronique Nichanian had it covered to a tee, T-shirt that is.

Like Hermes, Alber Elbaz over at Lanvin did his take on what a the contemporary man needs for his functional wardrobe. He divided it into uniform sections which included, pinstripes, tweeds in grey, country plaids, army coats and military jackets.

Penultimately, we have Sir Paul Smith flying the flag for British Sartorialism on the continent. Like so many brands this season he too has adopted the maxim of Orange is the new Black or maybe he’s been watching too much Netflix, either way we have seen everyone from Christopher Raeburn to Missoni, Moschino and Vivienne Westwood all take on the sunshine hue. Smith looked back to move forward this season and saught his design team to plunder his archive of decades of hoarding.

Finally we have Umit Benan who like Pablo Copolla for Bally seems to have been inspired by the films of Wes Anderson. Rather than the The Royal Tenenbaums, Benan appears to have emmerised himself in ‘The Life aquatic’ as whether is was fishing rods or bucket hats his models possessed some element of fishing paraphernalia. But at no time did Umit collection veer to the realms of silliness or gimmick.

If someone said to you we need a show to really kick Milan Mens Fashion Week off, one brand comes straight to mind. Now throw into the mix that this said brand are celebrating 20 years in the Fashion business and you could expect fireworks and good on those pesky Canadian twins Dean and Dan Caten of DSquared, they didn’t disappoint ! Offering up almost a Greatest Hits of a retrospective of their best work the twins send a host of ridiculously beautiful models down the catwalk including a bevy of Victoria’s Secret Angels to delight the crowd clad in allsorts of Hunter, Biker, Redneck attire, all of course with that Caten Canadian spin. Now if that wasn’t enough, acting as the finale to the proceedings a certain diva in the shapely form of Ms Mary J. Blige belted out U2’s “One“, without Bono, Thank God.

What a hard act to follow and talk about going to the other end of the Style spectrum, next up is Jil Sander, debuting Rodolfo Paglialunga first menswear collection for the label, his voluminous trousers might not have been everyone’s cup of cappuccino, but there is no disputing his mastery in Outerwear and offering a coat to suit everyman.

Onto an award winning American designer in Michael Bastian choosing to show his signature collection in Milan, which was quintessentially US Preppy Chic at its best. One could almost say a rival in the court of Ralph Lauren himself.

Next up a fellow Yank, more known for his Rock Star edge then Ivy League, John Varvatos channelled his inner Doris Stokes to summon up incarnations of Bob Dylan. This was a sterling collection for Varvatos offering a highly wearable but in no way boring look in a completely autumnal, sorry Fall like, colour palette.

Onwards to Bally then and WOW! Designer Pablo Coppola, looked to one of my favourite films for inspiration in Wes Anderson’s “The Royal Tenenbaums” and did not disappoint. Far from being a literally take on the film, not one headband in sight, OK the occasional tennis shoes, Coppola used this reference as a starting block for his collection and then built upon it, in a truly LUXE manner.

As sure as the Italians love Pasta, so to do Dolce & Gabbana love dipping into Italian culture for reference points. Last season it was the Spanish influence on Sicily, which for them was pretty damn loose, but this season the duo drank long and hard from the cup of vino and focused their attention on Il Famiglia. From the Holy Family to the traditional portrait of an extended Italian Family with Mama and Papa.

Flying the flag for the British contingent is the grand Dame herself Vivienne Westwood, who took a rather unusual muse, for her punk heritage ways, in the shape of HRH The Prince of Wales. The show started off rather tamely enough, in what could be described as Westwood’s take on Savile Row Tailoring and how in her mind she would probably dress Prince Charles if he was a regular customer of the Queen of Punk. However as the show developed, it became less the Princely figure we all know and more a character in Dame Viv’s reality of the world, including this brilliant suit complete in Pound note print. Gawd Bless her !

And from Viv we pass the mantle onto Italy’s very own Grand Dame, Miuccia Prada, who I never knew was a fan of the early 90’s Manchester Music scene as her male models looked highly reminiscent of Bez, Ian Brown, even an Ian Curtis for good measure was present. Like the fashions of this time where we saw lads and lassies wearing a unisex uniform, Prada showed not only her Menswear collection but her Womans Pre-Fall together. No not a pair of Joe Blogs Flares or tie dyed hooded top in sight but reference aplenty to Prada’s Nylon period of the 90’s.

Lastly, we have Marc Jacobs, no longer preoccupied with his Louis Vuitton duties, Jacobs can now plough all his energies into his own brand and for this Autumn/Winter 15 and he was very much in a dress down Friday sorta mood. For this season, even in the most formal of look he managed to give them a casual feel the most moody of teenagers would be proud of.

We start this season’s round up of all matters of a Sartorial nature in London and what better place to get the ball rolling than at an honest to goodness PUB QUIZ !!! OK with a rather stylish twist to it, in that it’s compare was Hacienda DJing Legend Mr Elliot Eastwick and it was organised by the Savile Row Tailoring trailblazers that are Cad & The Dandy, only in London.

TOPMAN DESIGN

Bright and breezy, otherwise known as flipping freezing, start to the day, but a warm reception was waiting at the TOPMAN Design show which was piled high with Northern Soul references, like being at a Wigan Pier Weekender. There was nods to The Bay City Rollers, Mark Boland right the way through to James Hunt and any show that finishes with Crazy Horses by The Osmonds is a winner in my books.

I was spoilt for choice on the first day of LC:M with a number of fave brands showing their wares but high points had to be David Keyte’s Universal Works, offering us a conceptual performance, which can go either way for me. But it didn’t disappoint, working on the principle upon which the brand is founded, the idea of Passing on, not in an deathly kinda way but how clothing can be passed on from being old to young and in doing so can be reinvented and reinvigorated.

One of my overall highlights of the entire schedule has to be the Barbour Presentation, which showcased the second season of their wonderful collaboration with the Japan company White Mountaineering, best summed

Barbour

up by the unique, Thank God, Mr Richard Gray, of The Sunday Times STYLE;

“I guess this collab is Tokyo cool meets Prince Charles or something like that. I spoke to Aiwaze San the designer of White Mountaineering, who told me the wax you see, which makes a Barbour jacket waterproof, was the Gortex of its day. And, in fact, it works as well as any new scientific development. Including Gortex. I look forward to the day the Royal Family wear White Mountaineering.“

Hackett

Then what a way to finish off the first day then to head over to one of London’s hidden architectural gems, No 2 Temple Place for a spot of dinner and to look at some exquisite attire by none other than Hackett, entitled, ‘Sheep, Shape and London Fashion’, this capsule collection paid homage to the prestigious longstanding textile mills of Britain. The 12 looks were an amalgamation of different checks and patterns in the finest British wools.

The second day started off with a great breathe of fresh air in the shape of the LC:M Exhibition, this never fails to impress me and I always fall head of heals for at least one brand this season my head couldn’t help being turned by the wonderful Gloverall and then the cashmere delights of ESK, this just has to be British craftsmanship at its best. And from one great example to another with Mr Nigel Calbourn who is never swayed by the short lived trends of Fashions but driven by inspirational stories of real people in history and vintage military, outdoor and work wear pieces.

Over then to Fraser Moss and YMC and once again I search the counsel of the ever wise Ms Sarah Gilfillan, contributor of this wonderful publication and founder of Sartorialab.co.uk ;

“I’ve always loved their simple understated look, and I particularly liked the clever layering and outerwear. The mixture of taloring with sportswear inspired pieces like the drawstring trousers takes me right back to the 90’s when they first started .I find their collections are minimal enough in design to appeal to the everyday man but they always have a subtle point of difference so they’re never boring. I have no doubt I’ll be buying many of these items with my clients next season and I can’t wait!”

Hardy Amies

Moving on to a brand which, to quote Messers Daft Punk and Williams, “Like a Phoenix from the ashes” WOW I can quite simply sum the Hardy Amies collection as, Beautiful clothes, where you find yourself wanting piece after piece.

Christopher Raeburn

Much like Mr Christopher Raeburn, who like Nigel Cabourn draws greatly on the great outdoors and nature in all its beauty for their inspiration and once again he does fail to impress. This season utilising Royal Navy rafts as his material of choice.

Belstaff

Now stay with me here, but I had my reservations when I headed towards an underground car park, not a million miles away from The House of Commons. Surely I must have taken a wrong turn, it wouldn’t have been the first time and this can hardly be classed as a glamorous setting for a stylish presentation for a brand like Belstaff ? Well, as I see Fashion Royalty like Ms Suzy Menkes, Mr Edward Enniful and Ms Caroline Rush spilling out of it, I can’t be wrong. Belstaff, took its inspiration from the ‘Ton-Up Boys’ of the 1950s. Heavily into their rock‘n’roll and motorcycles, these ‘greasers’ would rendezvous at cafés and attempt to ‘do a ton’ (exceed speeds of 100mph) on their custom-made bikes, both fearless and reckless in their stylish pursuit.

Casely-Hayford

Moving into the straits now we had a blinder of a show from Father and Son duo Joe and Charlie Casely-Hayford. Set to a sound track of Bjork and Bowie a tribe of Stylish Outsiders did the honours for u. Mixing Oranges and Pinks seamlessly with Blacks and Navy to create a riveting colour palette.

E.Tautz

Opening to a surmon by his Holiness Pope John Paul II isn’t the most obvious start to an E.Tautz show but give Patrick Grant his dues it certainly got the audience’s attention in what Grant called his most personal collection so far, for the Savile Row house. Every coat and piece of outerwear he sent out was one you lushes and craved for already, no brights or pastels for Grant this season only monochrome in his highly wearable colour spectrum.

Tom Ford

Now here’s the battle of the big boys of LC:M, the Texan and the Yorkshire lad, up first we have Tom Ford who showed us a much more causal side to him, which I have to say I’d really not expected to see which included jeans and trainers, I lie to you not ! Then we have Christopher Bailey in the Burberry Check corner, offering us Classical Bohemian in ponchos, florals and paisley, fresh off a hazy trip back in time to India.

Well, there you have it for another season next stop Milan, ding, ding !

Christmas throws up a few more style conundrums than usual, and all in a short space of time – office Christmas parties, lunches out with family, drinks parties at the neighbours and so on and so forth. These are the sort of occasions that most of my clients welcome a little sartorial guidance on in order to nail the elusive “smart/casual” look. So here we’ve put together six looks to see you through the holiday period with it’s varying activities.

For your office Christmas party, add festive flair to a classic work ensemble with your choice of accessories. If you look carefully, you’ll notice this shirt has a jacquard camouflage print giving a subtle twist to a work staple. Wear with this sumptous red velvet tie giving seasonal cheer and hold in place with this unusual silver stag tie slide. Continue the deep red tones through to the patterned pocket square to add further dashing appeal.

Grey single breasted wool blend blazer – Mr Rick Tailor at Liberty
Navy straight leg wool blend trousers – Alexander McQueen at Liberty
Camouflage jacquard white cotton shirt – PS by Paul Smith at Matches
Deep red velvet tie –Lanvin at Liberty
Silver stag tie slide – Mr Start
Square print silk pocket square – Canali at Mr Porter

An outfit for the school nativity play requires a nonchalant and laid back elegance. Swap jeans for cords, and shoes for brogued boots, and give a nod to Noel with a pine green checked shirt. Finish off with a blazer such as this knitted one which combines a tailored look with a comfortable feel, and allows plenty of movement in the arms for all that furious clapping you’ll be doing for your budding little star on stage.

Frede gingham check cotton shirt – NN.07 at Mr Porter
Grey slim fit corduroy jeans – Burberry Brit at Mr Porter
Crinkle knitted navy blazer – Club Monaco at Mr Porter
Brown leather belt – Alvaro at Mr Porter
Patterned lightweight scarf – Paul Smith at Mr Porter
Leather lace up brogue boots – Paul Smith at Mr Porter

I’m sure Santa would give many elves to swap his red suit for this fabulous cosy red sweater! Alas, it’s too late to change his style now, but whilst he gets busy in the chimneys you can take yours up a notch or two by donning this sweater with jeans and a relaxed bomber to head to the pub for the Christmas Eve celebrations.

Red and damson colour block sweater – Paul Smith
Damson wool blend bomber jacket – Paul Smith
Tapered fit dry indigo jeans – Paul Smith
Red twist stripe wool scarf – Paul Smith
Black Saffiano leather billfold wallet – Paul Smith
Burgundy leather Bernofsky chukka boots – Paul Smith

A bracing Boxing Day walk works wonders at refreshing you after the previous day’s indulgences. Keep wintery winds at bay with a jaunty red gilet layered over a chunky sweater, and add a sense of holiday fun with some striped gloves. A.P.C. have thoughtfully designed these stylish walking boots which will look just as good pounding the city pavements when you get back to town, as stomping around the countryside.

Freestyle quilted down gilet – Canada Goose at Matches
Wool and cashmere blend roll neck sweater – Inis Meain at Matches
1967 505 straight leg jeans – Levi’s Vintage at Matches
Striped wool gloves – Paul Smith at Mr Porter
Marled cotton blend socks – Anonymous ISM at Mr Porter
Alaska leather walking boots – A.P.C. at Matches

Personally I feel that dressing up on Christmas Day adds a lovely sense of occasion to the day. These tailored tartan trousers and holly hued sweater, are fitting for the festivities whether that includes lunch in or out, charades or cards, telly or talking, snoozing or losing at board games. The wearing of stylish socks at Christmas is also crucial for those house visits to the “no shoes inside” homes.

Checked slim fit trouses – Alexander McQueen at Farfetch
Forest green crew neck wool sweater – Moncler at Farfetch
Light grey cotton classic shirt – A.P.C. at Farfetch
Green cotton blend ribbed socks – Gallo at Farfetch
Black leather classic belt – Paul Smith at Farfetch
Black leather Oxford brogues – Grenson at Farfetch

Fine tune your acccessories to dress up your suit for the New Year’s Eve celebrations. This smart shirt has a double layered “origami” collar which adds an interesting point of difference to a classic white shirt. Step up the formaility by wearing a bow tie instead of a regular one, and give a refined finish to your outfit by wearing a small piece of art, in the form of a pocket square, which is the result of a collaboration between Drakes and the Royal College of Art. And finally don’t forget an elegant timepiece for the essential count down to welcome in the New Year!

Slim fit tailored blue suit jacket – Sandro
Slim fit tailored blue suit trousers – Sandro
White formal shirt – Banana Republic
Green knitted silk bow tie – +People at Farfetch
Green silk pocket square – Drakes X Royal College of Art
Sterlind silver Nevil chronograph watch – Triwa at Liberty
Black high shine leather Derby shoes – Sandro

Preview of the Best of the High Street for Spring 2015

Paris Menswear Shows Highlights – Autumn/Winter 2015

Milan Menswear Shows Hightlights – Autumn/Winter 2015

London Collections:Men – Highlights – Autumn/Winter 2015

Make sure your Festively Dapper during the Yuletide by Sarah Gilfillan

Categories