CLOTHES MAKE THE MAN

This season sees the eighth London Collections:Men, somewhat of a testament to the standard, continual and ever increasing quality that has become part and parcel of the diverse showcase that now brings followers from the four corners of the globe.

However, a rather long shadow was cast on the last day of the proceedings, as we woke to hear the news that the thin White Duke, David Bowie, had been taken from us, all too early. Many of the creatives involved in LC:M cite Bowie as a great inspiration not only to their collections but to their career.

Moving on, this season we took the decision of rather than myself and the team giving you their opinions and musings on the shows, collections and trends that we witnessed for Autumn/Winter 16, we’ve decided to cast our net further and ask the views of some of the leading creative lights on what many believe to be the most creatively interesting city and Fashion weeks on the planet. We lets get underway. First off

“Edward Crutchley really stood out for me with a collection based on his Yorkshire roots. With a mix of beautiful traditional textiles and flowing oversize streetwear shapes I am excited to see what is to come next form this new face on the LCM scene.”

Eilidh Greig, Fashion Editor ShortList

“London Collections is going from strength to strength, and the diversity is reflected throughout LCM. If I had to choose one overall favourite show this would probably be Coach, a masculine collection that included reimagined and wearable but luxurious items influenced from the streets of New York and retaining a sense of individuality that makes the label one of my favourites at the moment.”

Gary Kingsnorth, Fashion Editor, Coach Magazine and Editor, www.thestyleking.com

“I really enjoyed JW Anderson’s show. The colour palette was pretty varied meaning you had camel and khaki green one minute, drifting into baby pink and off white the next. The outerwear was particularly strong with full length top coats in those aforementioned colours, as well as a brilliant, furry overcoat in pristine cream that looked like you could have crawled inside it and spent the rest of your life sleeping warm and soundly.”

Matt Hambly, Style Editor, Mens Health UK

“For me the highlight show of LCM this season was Dunhill. The setting of the presentation, a private members club in Mayfair, was a decedent backdrop for a collection of perfectly tailored evening wear, an innovative yet true to brand offering of daywear that is as much for the true Dunhill man as it is for new adopters of the brand. Dunhill, I think, even win the award for the best casting of the season.”

Dan Hasby Oliver, Editor & Founder of LastStyleofdefense.com

“1205 is my favourite collection. It wasn’t a ‘wow’ show in itself but every piece was just super wearable. It was understated and very versatile – you know you would just live in it”.

Jessica Punter, Style & Grooming Editor, British GQ

“Bullseye! LCM hit it right in the you know where this time round. So much “newness” – is that a word – and so much promise for the seasons ahead.

Charles Jeffrey and the MAN kids killed it for me.

But then I got to Margaret Howell (pictured) and I saw the familiar replayed and worked up into best-mate pieces you can rely on. Wardrobe wing men if you like: those two beautiful Argyle knits; the wide (but not too wide as to be silly) trousers and a duffle coat I want to have babies with.”

Richard Gray, Creative & Fashion Director, Sunday Times Style

“Topman goes 70’s grunge. Autumnal shades of oranges and brown. crushed velvet suits, velvet devore gowns, silk satin wide leg trousers. Cropped chevron print harrington jackets, printed silky longline shirts under grungy bobbly knits, faded shredded denims and Converse style footwear with slouchy beanies.”

Lee Holden, Leading Menswear Stylist & Image Consultant

“Ooh, tough. Could I have two. Margaret Howell and Christopher Raeburn?(pictured) Howell for never feeling the need to reinvent the wheel. Just beautiful, quality classics always calmly presented in her Wigmore St store. Styling macs that will keep you dry. Raeburn for taking military and not making costume. Even his finale showpieces were clearly referenced from military clothing.”

Marcus Agerman Ross, editor-in-chief of Jocks&Nerds magazine

“I really liked Katie Eary! (Pictured) Loved the prints and the pyjama robe combo.
And Richard James, it’s always a solid good show and I would wear most of the collection.”
Robert Konjic, Male Supermodel & LC:M Commitee member

“E. Tautz’s catwalk show at showcased an excellently put together collection drawing inspiration from 1980’s Edinburgh roller disco scene which maybe and unlikely source for a Savile Row Tailor, that didn’t phase Patrick Grant whatsoever”.

Harry Bradbury, Contributing Style Editor, Clothes-Make-the-Man.com

“The duo have done it again, with a more maturecollection continuing on from the past few seasons they have showcased. Agi Mdumulla and Sam Cotton let loose, literally, with a collection built on roomy silhouettes, elongated proportions, and rich Italian fabrics. Trousers were broad and swooshed as models paraded, while coats were rounded at the shoulder and roomy with utility pockets. The earthy palette consisted of mud brown, army green and navy – with minimal pattern, except for small checks that popped on a long coat with a shearling collar”.

Keanu Adorable, Contributing Style Editor, Clothes-Make-the-Man.com

OK so we come to my opinion, I think we saved the best for last as this has to be the season of Lou Dalton. She showed her signiture collection off, inspired by the Shetland Islands, a home away from home for Lou. Men, nature, history, and beauty all came together in the rich fabrics and practical designs. Silhouettes were slouched and unfussy, with baggy trousers and soft-shouldered, rich flannel outwear playing key roles. Always understated improves every season ! While this was going on her Collaboation with River Island’s Design Forum launched and if that wasn’t enough, this busy lady was launching another co-venture, this time for Autumn 16, this time with Jaeger.

As you loyal and ardent followers of our musings will know every season, at LC:M time we profile a different designer/brand/consortium. However, we like to keep you on your toes and mix things up, so this season rather than concentrate on profiling one, we thought stuff it ! Let’s catch up with TEN of, not only, the best that LC:M have to offer but also leading lights in the menswear field that we love what they are currently doing. So keep it up chaps !

Gordon Richardson for TOPMAN Design
What inspires you ?

People who go against the odds who swim upstream. Pioneers in all walks of life from ancient explorers to modern entrepreneurs. People who through their beliefs and endeavours have changed the pace of life.

Richard James

Tell us something no one else knows?
If you make suits, you can only call yourself a tailor if you work for yourself. If you’re employed by someone else you’re a cutter.

Lou Dalton

Who would be your ideal diner guest ?
At this moment in time the love of my life Justin Haigh, we haven’t been in each others company for a while due to the show. Within the public eye, from the past Princess Margaret, from the present David Hockney, both colourful souls with many a story to tell I’m sure.

Oliver Spencer

Have you ever bought a piece of clothing and regretted it ?
Yes, A Yohji Yamamoto shirt, it was too big and made me look like a chef.

Marc Hare

If you could only wear one brand for the rest of your life who would it be ?
Bauhaus. Because they were trying to just make the world better and the mix of modernism and traditional craft just created great products by default. I bet their sneakers would have been ill.

Christopher Raeburn

If you could give your teenage self advice, what would it be?
I wish I’d happened across Fischli and Weiss advise on work a little earlier so I’d probably ask myself to have a quick read:
1.Do one thing at a time

2.Know the problem

3.Learn to listen

4.Learn to ask questions

5.Distinguish sense from nonsense

6.Accept change as inevitable

7.Admit mistakes

8.Say it simple

9.Be calm

Smile

Simon Carter
What piece of clothing would you relegate to Room 101?

Baseball caps

Joe Casely Hayford

What track would always get you on the dance floor ?
I’m a dancing machine (in my head) there are too many tracks to even consider; this changes daily. Today it’s The Invisible “Wings” remixed by Floating Points.

Patrick Grant

What piece of clothing should everyman have in his wardrobe ?
A handmade grey flannel suit

Jason Basmajian for Gieves & Hawkes
If you could have invented anything what would it be ?
Concorde – I love to travel fast

Graham Fish isn’t a name that you automatically associate with the Glamourous world of Beauty and Grooming, nonetheless you will have definately heard of the brands he has worked with the and the accomplishments he has achieved with these brands.

Over the last three decades Graham’s CV includes, Alberto Culver for 20 years with the VO5, Tresemme, Alberto andIndola ranges. He has turning around the loss making UK division taking VO5 styling to Number 1 styling brand. He was also responsible for developing Tresemme professionally and building overall sales to exceed £90 million.

With men-ü, Fish’s is passionate about the fundamental objective of the brand, to introduce more men to quality grooming whilst educating them on the modern brand and modern benefits, incorporating products that are different and make a difference.

Men-ü is a contemporary grooming range of men’s hair and skincare products. All products are ultra – concentrate formulae which facilitates use of a high percentage of active ingredients and the secret is to get them to where they are needed without waste meaning a longer lasting experience. The products fit neatly in the hand and into a man’s lifestyle, bathroom, sports or travel bag.

The range is also complemented with Italian PRO BLACK shaving brushes which use up to 40% less shave crème than animal bristles and are easier to keep clean and therefore more hygienic with no bristle loss. The black bristles which are exclusive to the brand are manufactured to be smooth, solid and non-absorbent.

However, the brand have another very significant string to their bow through the men-ü salon academy, based in Southampton. This is the centre for men-ü professional training and the product range, inviting salons and barbers to learn more about male grooming needs whilst highlighting the product benefits.

When the Global athletics brand New Balance approach the traditional British bench-made shoe makers Grenson and they come together to redefine the premium sneaker collaboration, with the Made in England 576GRB, surely only a thing of pure beauty can result from this encounter ?

Manufactured across both Grenson’s Northampton factory, and New Balance’s UK factory in Flimby, Cumbria, which then take advantage of the years of expertise and utilise the craftsmanship, know how and premium materials of both parties, the 576GRB is a collaboration in the truest sense of the word.

Grenson’s best Italian grade A calf-skin leather has been expertly worked into the 576 pattern at Flimby, before being shipped back to the craftsmen at Grenson to apply their signature burnishing and broguing details and essential giving them one last once over.

The components are then returned to the New Balance factory to be assembled by their skilled workers into the final sneaker. This project is one of New Balance’s most ambitious ever sneakers to make, due to the complexity and delicacy of the process, the 576GRB represents a new benchmark and yardstick in luxury athletic footwear.

It’s day 4 and the last day of LC:M A/W 16. It has been a wonderful week for British fashion, from the well established brands to the young and upcoming designers; it is clear that the whole world is taking notice once again, of the creative talent that has come from these shores. And of course, we can’t forget the stylish figures that have created a buzz and demand for street style photography. On to the next one.

Photos by Harry Bradbury/ Words by Keanu Adorable

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