My Favourite Grooming Products – David Olsen, vice president of global beauty & grooming, MR PORTER.COM

imageToday sees the launch of a new feature where we ask key industry figures to let us in on those essential items they couldn’t live without. The subject of today’s feature is David Olsen, vice president of global beauty & grooming for both NET-A-PORTER.COM and MR PORTER.COM. In his role, Olsen oversees the global beauty and grooming planning, buying, sales, marketing and communication functions, for the group. Olsen has a Bachelor of Arts from UC Berkeley and a JD/MBA from the University of Miami.

1) Czech and Speake-manicure setimage

 

Having nice, clean looking nails is a must, especially when you are in front of clients day in, day out. This set is the highlight of our Czech & Speake collection – it’s premium, unique and can be easily packed away in a suitcase.

2)  Aesop-Dapper Gentleman

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Aesop collaborated with us to design this bestselling exclusive. The kit includes the products every man needs to freshen up tired skin.

3) D R Harris-Arlingon kit

imageD R Harris has been around since 1790. That says it all. When I have time for a proper shave, this is my go-to brand. The products are well made and the Arlington scent is classic and refreshing.

4) Patricks Pomade

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Patricks hair product range is truly one-of-a-kind. The packaging design is unique – it features a double lock system so the package doesn’t open while travelling, dimensions inspired by the Fibonacci sequence, and a no-slip rubber grip system – that it’s easy to forget that the pomade contains a hair loss prevention compound.

5) Bigelow-Rose Salve

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This is the ultimate skin defense for the UK’s cold temperatures. C.O. Bigelow has been a Manhattan institution for over 100 years. I can always rely on them for quality products, with a rich and old-New York feel.

6) Pankhurst-Silver Fox Shampoo

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I’m counting on this product to help me age gracefully. Pankhurst’s award-winning formulations and handsome packaging will take you straight back to the Bentley-designed barber chairs of their Carnaby Street Shop.

A Historic Pairing – Nigel Cabourn X Fred Perry

Screen Shot 2015-04-13 at 15.39.04Nigel Cabourn and Fred Perry are two monumental names in British Menswear, both share great similarities in that they always stay true to their design principles, have never been swayed by the fads and passing trends of Fashion and both share a passion for Sport. Perry’s is a more obvious one, with his heritage deeply entrenched in tennis, but Cabourn too finds great inspiration in Sporting attire.

Premium menswear retailer, Woodhouse Clothing has been selected as one of 10 limited retailers who are housing the exclusive Nigel Cabourn for Fred Perry SS15 collection which is inspired by table tennis. The 12 piece collection which comprises of polo shirts, shorts and lightweight jackets.

Gavin Crossland, head of buying at Woodhouse said “We’re delighted that Woodhouse has been chosen to sell the Nigel Cabourn collection for spring/summer 2015. The collection is steeped in heritage and ticks all the right boxes for our consumer. As we head towards our 40th anniversary this year, it cements our position in offering exclusive brand collections.”

We were lucky enough to be invited to Nigel Cabourn’s Army Gym concept store in Covent Garden to talk with the man himself about the collection.

 

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Can you explain a bit about this collection and the thinking behind it?

This particular project is really about Fred himself. Obviously when you do a collaboration, from my point of view, it should be 50/50. I have a big interest in table tennis anyway, I was a young kid in the ‘50s and table tennis was quite a big sport then and that’s when Fred Perry began his clothing range.

When the team at Fred Perry came to me and asked would I work with them I immediately said I’d be interested but I wanted to focus on Fred because he was world champion in table tennis in 1929. They sort of dropped their jaws a little bit because I’m not sure how aware they were of that – everyone thinks of him as a Wimbledon Champion before anything else.

I said if we can do the collaboration on table tennis then we’ll do it, so basically this is a combination of my love of Ping-Pong as a kid and the fact that was where Fred really began.

Do you still play?

Oh yeah! I play a lot, I’ve got my own table and up until recently I was probably playing 4 or 5 times a week. I’m very much into keep fit but unfortunately I can’t do everything, I’m doing a lot more boxing and army training at the moment but table tennis is really good for your mind and quick thinking.

 What’s your favourite item from the collection?

The Sweat Suit is definitely my favourite, it’s basically what Fred Perry were making around 1954 and in 54/55 as a kid I was wearing that same tracksuit bottom with the over the head half zip top which was actually a football kit of the day.

I love the full suit, you’ll see from my Instagram that I’ve been wearing it a lot. I’ve been using it for everything from riding my fat bike to boxing and playing tennis, it’s great. 

Can you describe the collection in a few words?

It’s based on table tennis, it’s inspired by table tennis and it’s really what Fred Perry were specialising in from 1952. The collection is true to that and uses all of the original fabrics from the early 50’s as well as the original branding from the laurel wreath to the back neck label. It epitomises Fred Perry at the beginning. 

Can we expect any more Fred Perry x Cabourn in the future?

Well this is the first one, I’ve designed two more since then so we’ve got three collections coming out in the next 18 months and I’m pretty sure we’ll be doing another one, so it’s going to be a two year collaboration.

The next one is based on Fred training with the Arsenal football team in 1936, which again, not a lot of people know about. When he was a tennis player challenging at Wimbledon during the height of his success in tennis he was also at the training ground with Arsenal.

The next collection is heavily focused on that. It’s really cool, there’s roll neck sweaters like the old goalkeepers wore mixed in with sweat pants and tops.

Fred Perry have got such a good following and the great thing about this project is it’s a very natural one for me as you can see, you can’t just make that stuff up.

It’s a big part my heritage as well, I’m 65 for god sake and my brand is already 45 years old, Fred Perry is about 60 odd years old too. I knew a lot about this and it looks great.

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Survival of the fittest – Natural Selection

imageNatural Selection found life back in 2009, when John Park sought inspiration from Charles Darwin’s book ‘Origin of Species by way of Natural Selection’ the brand was conceived on the notion of constant evolution in a highly competitive world. Starting as a denim brand, and using only Japanese selvedge, Natural Selection marries modern silhouettes and finishing techniques to authenticity and high-fidelity construction.

imageFor this season Natural Selection throughly embraces the chaos and energy of artist Tim Woolcock, a latter day proponent of the St Ives School of Painting, to create a collection of non–linear abstraction. Following the architecturally design  collection for last season, where irregularity was introduced through peppered tweeds, flecked chambrays and an errant polka dot motif. The shirting, shorts and sweaters feel sportier whilst silhouettes retain their clean, vertical lines.

The colour palette of the collection of blue, grey and stone are reminiscent of Woolcock’s work and compliment the crisp, uncluttered essence of the clothing. The brand continuously strives to challenge the norms of garment construction and craftsmanship with details such as buttons, pockets and seams concealed to produce flawless design with no compromise on functionality.

imageProving its survival and even triving, later this month the brand open it’s first flagship store, on London’s Monmouth Street. Offering the discerning consumer the opportunity to shop both ready to wear and the extensive denim range, the Natural Selection store will also have curated collections from specially sourced designers; namely No.288 footwear from New York and Parisian eyewear brand Thierry Lasry. Cosmetics from Dr Jackson’s all-natural skincare range and fragrance from Histoires de Parfums will also complement the store’s all round offering.

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AMEN to that – A*MEN ULTRA ZEST Limited Edition

imageA*Men, originally launched back in 1996 as a men’s fragrance created from the richness of Thierry Mugler’s own imagination, drawing heavily on his characteristic symbolism. The fragrance itself reflects the duality of the Mugler man: a powerful, strength of character belying an emotional sensual side beneath. This original scent evoked by the fresh, metallic purity of peppermint and lavender, combining with a reassuring sensuality of a woody blend of patchouli and Atlas cedarwood. Contrasting this is a fiery explosiveness of coffee, styrax, and powerful notes of musk and tonka bean.

However, the man of the 21st-century is very different to his counterpart of the last millennium and so A*MEN brings you a new twist on the original: Ultra Zest. Shaken, not stirred, this new male fragrance will tantalise the senses as it bursts with fresh, citrus, spicy and woody notes. This refreshing cocktail dares you to stand out from the crowd, be bold and go where most won’t dare to go.

It offers the perfect cocktail of woody, spicy and citrus notes and once again evokes emotions in equal measures. We have, Vigour, supplied by The fresh scents of mandarin, blood orange and ginger to tantalise the senses. Attitude, comes thanks to a mix of cinnamon, coffee and black pepper to give the fragrance its strength and unwitting character and of course,  Seduction, thanks to vanilla, patchouli and tonka bean to create a sophisticated and sensual scent.

The energetic orange flask containing this elexia explodes with colour whilst the signature star of Thierry Mugler, shines from within.

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Tailoring his own path – James Sleater – Textual Conversations

Screen Shot 2015-03-26 at 10.48.24There are certain companies, individuals, brands that shun the rule books and constraints of traditional thinking, Apple, Dyson, Virgin the list goes on and a new name to add to that list is Savile Row tailors Cad & the Dandy. Who have establish themselves on dismissing the premiss that quality comes at a heavy price. They have broke with tradition and operate with the conviction that high end bespoke tailoring should be accessible to all.

Their suits offer a modern British cut, are made using age old hand tailoring techniques and are delivered with a personal touch. They don’t over complicate things, operating from intimate premises in Savile Row and The City, with our trained Savile Row tailors, cutters and finishers, offering a friendly and welcoming approach and not a whiff of a Ooo Suits your sir carry on. All of their suits start with pattern creation, done by hand and retained for all future orders.

We caught up with one half of the dynamic duo in James Sleater to put the world to rights;

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Best piece of advice you’ve ever been given?

Always put other people at ease.

If you could Dress anyone who would it be ?

Steve McQueen – he was fortunate in that he always looked effortlessly cool

What’s your Favourite movie ever ?

Zulu – It’s a combination of Great military clothing and empire and its bravado

What would be the name of your autobiography ?

Stitch it bitch.

Screen Shot 2015-03-26 at 10.50.31If you could collaborate with one brand who would it be ?

LandRover – to design new defender coming out in 2yrs – replacement of iconic british vehicle.

Favourite hotel in the world ?

The Savoy because of the amazing bar and rooms with incredible London river views.

If you could give your teenage self advice, what would it be ?

Work harder.

Who would do you ideal diner guests ?

Churchill, Thatcher, Bush Jnr, Berlosconi – Just to sit back and watch the magic happen.

What piece of clothing best describes you ?

Bespoke 3 piece suit – the finest British craftsmanship to give the ultimate silhouette and first impression.

What piece of clothing would you relegate to Room 101 ?

Rucksack – kills a suit and looks shit.

What piece of style advise do you live by ?

Always polish your shoes. The small details matter.

If you had one day to live what would be your biggest regret ?

Not having another day to live.

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