Craig Tate – Nicholas Deakins – Textual Conversation

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Craig Nicholas Tate, whilst studying for a BA Honours degree in Fashion and Textile in London established Nicholas Deakins in 1991. An initial collection of only four styles was then made in England by, the historic Northampton based, W.J Brookes to exploit a niche in the market and the brand quickly became a favourite with the sharply dressed ravers of legendary nightclubs of the time including the Hacienda, Cream and Renaissance plus the well turned out residents of  football terraces around the country, this earning a loyal and dedicated fashion savvy following.

Now based in Tate’s hometown of Leeds, the Nicholas Deakins collection includes a full line of clothing and footwear, with the brand’s flagship store situated in the city’s uber trendy shopping location The Victorian Quarters. Nicholas Deakins continues to evolve, introducing new materials and production methods, whilst holding true to the classic British styles on which the brand has built its name upon. Recently we’ve seen collaborations with British Stalwart brands Harris Tweed and British Millerain, plus with the likes of The View, Devlin and Rizzle Kicks all fans of the brand, not bad for starting as a sideline while your studying, hey Mr Tate ? Anyway enough of me what has the man himself got to say ?

If you could collaborate with one brand (Who you currently aren’t) who would it be and why?

New Balance, a market leader who is immensely proud of its British heritage and continues to have a manufacturing base here in the UK.

 

If you could live anywhere where would it be & Why?

Easy, New York ! Such a creative, dynamic city with fantastic restaurants, bars and museums. You can lose yourself in the different neighbourhoods as each one offers a completely different vibe to the next. It also has 4 distinct seasons a year with extreme variations of hot and cold.

 

If you could give your teenage self advice, what would it be?

Listen to your elders!

 

How did you get into the industry, what was your big break?

The Nicholas Deakins business was started in the recession of 1991 during the summer holidays whilst studying a BA Honours in Fashion and Textile. I guess the big break was selling the first four designs into Strand (Leeds), Life (Manchester) and Psyche (Middlesborough) which just about launched the business overnight.

 

What track would always get you on the dance floor?

Playing with Knives – Bizarre Inc, brings back those Hacienda memories, happy days!

 

What piece of clothing best describes you?

A slim fitting three piece suit in navy blue.

 

What piece of clothing would you relegate to Room 101?

Juicy Couture tracksuits.

 

Have you ever bought a piece of clothing and regretted it? If so what & why?

Yes, far too often I’m afraid which is the disadvantage of being an impulse buyer – sometime it comes off and sometime it doesn’t! I cant remember a specific piece but do try to avoid being suckered into a purchase just because of a massive discount, remember there’s a reason it’s in the sale!

 

Who is your style icon? Why?

Steve McQueen, have a look at some of his photos…no further explanation required.

 

If you could only wear one brand/Designer (other then your own) for the rest of your life who would it be? Why?

Ralph Lauren, has everything you need.

 

Preview of the Autumn 13 Nicholas Deakins Collection

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Richard Anderson – Textual Conversation

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What Richard Anderson doesn’t know about tailoring really isn’t worth knowing and to say he knows Savile Row like the back of his hand is no exaggeration.  He is known first and foremost as one of world’s finest tailoring houses. At the heart of the company is a bespoke tailoring service, but this is not where the experience stops. Anderson also offers made-to-measure and a very high quality ready-to-wear product. The RTW(Ready to wear) product carries the ethos of the company throughout, creating a product that comes at a competitive price but is manufactured to exacting standards. Made in Italy, but predominantly with British fabrics and in the signature house style.

For Autumn 13 there are some incredible pieces in the collection, with outstanding double breasted overcoats and richly coloured corduroy suits and of course the single button suit which Richard Anderson is most renowned for remains in there too.  But enough of me, lets hear what pearls of wisdom Mr Anderson has in store for us today.

What would be the one piece of clothing you would rescue from your home in the event of a fire ?

At the moment I’m loving my lightweight 3 piece oatmeal Donegal tweed suit which will be part of our AW13 collection. That will definitely be coming through the flames with me.

What inspires you ?

My family, work colleagues, customers – everyone and everything.

If you could only wear one brand/Designer for the rest of your life who would it be ?

My own – why not?

Who is your style icon ? Why ?

As a seventeen year old apprentice, it would have to have been Huntsman’s managing director and head cutter Colin Hammick. Splendid in navy mohairs, grey pick for pick and navy spots (this is suiting) worn with pale blue voile shirts and heavy maller dutcha blue spot ties.

What piece of style advise do you live by ?

Less is more, simple clean lines equal elegance.

What piece of clothing should everyman have in his wardrobe ?

A single breasted navy suit in a medium weight classical cut, one button, two vents with slim fitting trousers. Great for business, and formal occasion, ticks all the boxes.

What piece of clothing would you relegate to Room 101 ?

I’m not a fan of slim suits

What do you have to do after this conversation ?

We are just back from the states where we visited 7 cities over a 3 week period, so I’ve got a lot of making up to do and getting work in hand. The plus side is I love doing it, and it’s always great to have the work ticking along

If you could live anywhere where would it be & Why ?

NYC is cool, id like that … yeah NY would be nice for a while …

If you could collaborate with one brand (Who you currently aren’t) who would it be and why ?

My friend Robert Godley company’s Psycho Bunny maybe fun to do something with.

 

RICHARD ANDERSON SUMMER 2013

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A Gentleman and a Scholar, Patrick Grant

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The subject of today’s LC:M textual conversation has incredibly, his fingers in MANY pies, in fact the hardest thing about this entire interview is where do you start when discussed the sickeningly talented Patrick Grant. Do you begin with E.Tautz, one of the brands he is Creative Director of, that he showed earlier this week during London Collections: Men or the other one, the Savile Row institution that is Norton & Sons. Or his many collaborations, a truly inspired partnership with Barbour for Autumn 13, which we’ll discuss later in the season or his venture, Hammond & Co, joining the expanding ranks of the Designers Portfolio at High Street retailer Debenhams. Not to mention his blossoming media career as a judge on the BBC TV show the Great British sewing Bee ????

Surprisingly though, Grant doesn’t come from a particularly Design background, or even creative, some might say. He has a Bachelors degree in Materials Science & Engineering, sorry what,  from Leeds University and Universite d’Orleans and a Masters in Business Administration from the University of Oxford. He lived and worked in five countries and in a number of different industries before the desire to follow a career in Menswear possessed him. Craftsmanship and a passion for old British brands lead him to Savile Row tailors Norton & Sons which he took over in 2005. Then in 2009 Patrick re-launched the historic British sporting and military tailoring house of E. Tautz as a men’s ready to wear collection.

He won the British Fashion Council’s Menswear Designer of the Year award in December 2010 for his work on E. Tautz. In 2012 he won the BFC’s Fashion Forward award and was shortlisted for Designer of the Year at the Scottish Fashion Awards and International Designer of the Year at the WGSN Global Fashion Awards.

If fact why don’t I shut up and let Mr Grant tell you about Supermodels flashing at him or the Davids all coming over for a Dinner party and well…. I’ll let him tell you. Enjoy.

If you could collaborate with one brand who would it be and why ?

One of the great British carmakers, either Bentley or Rolls Royce. They’re a pretty rare blend of engineering excellence, craftsmanship, heritage and beautiful design.

 

Favourite hotel in the world ?

Lafayette House New York. A beautiful little brownstone, lovely old slightly rickety furniture, wonky floors, few but great staff, no reception or restaurant or gym or doorman. Feels like home.

 

If you could give your teenage self advice, what would it be ?

Sleep less, do more (do everything). When you get to 40 everything will start to creak.

 

In your words, describe the SS14 collection ?

Opulant, lengthy, shawly; the three ages of Edwardianism (the first one, the Teds, and the Peacock Revolution), central asian mens clothes, The Life of Birds. The Kandura.

 

What is you most memorable moment ?

Winning the Menswear Designer of the Year award at the BFA’s.

 

What track would always get you on the dance floor ? Blackout Crew – Put A Donk On It?

 

Who would do you ideal diner guests and why ?

David Ogilvy, David Niven, David Walliams, (anyone called David it seems).

Irreverent humorous Englishmen.

 

What piece of clothing best describes you ?

A well worn hiking boot.

 

What piece of style advise do you live by ?

To paraphrase Hemingway ‘Everyone has his own style, and there should be no rules about how style should function.’

 

What piece of clothing should everyman have in his wardrobe ?

A handmade grey flannel suit

 

If you could have invented anything what would it be ?

Air? That would be worth a few quid.

 

Who is your style icon ?

Jarvis Coker. Just splendid.

 

Tell us something no one else knows ?

A supermodel once tried to put me off on my final (victory clinching) question in a game of trivial pursuits by flashing her boobs. 

E.Tautz Autumn/Winter 2013

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E.Tautz Spring/Summer 2014

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Martin Franklin – Foxhall London – Textual Conversation

Screen Shot 2013-05-07 at 19.59.29No don’t worry, I know there are times my spelling and grammar leave a lot to be desired, but its OK put the red marking pen away, on this occasion. Today’s subject is , Martin Franklin, the man behind the, relatively, new brand Foxhall London, although only founded in 2010 after seeing a gap in the market for a new kind of British menswear targeted to 30-45 year old guys living a modern metropolitan life. And so Foxhall was developed to offer these men an edited contemporary wardrobe, with a full category offering, covering contemporary tailoring through to technical urban outerwear and wardrobe essential items such as selvedge denim, great T-shirts, fitted shirting, classic knitwear and robust, stylish accessories.

Inspired by sports and outdoors brands, functional details with consideration for urban life were considered and incorporated into key outerwear items.  The collection has developed a sharp tailored look, and designed to be easy to understand and wear – items that form the foundation of a modern man’s wardrobe.

The name FOXHALL comes from the London Borough of Vauxhall and is probably best explained by Franklin himself,           “It’s a much earlier spelling of Vauxhall, the area of London that is amazingly not famous for the spectacular Pleasure Gardens found there for 250 years from the 17th to 19th centuries. Having lived in the area for quite a few years, I learnt more about them and they were an amazing centre of urban recreation – with spectacular energy, a diversity of people, a certain hedonism – everything that makes London such a great city today. I realised 350 years on not much has changed, and because Foxhall celebrates London’s urban fabric, I thought the Pleasure Gardens were a great inspiration for the brand story”.

For Summer 2013, the brand’s collection continues on its tip of offering contemporary ready to wear and accessories in the brand’s signature style. Key developments include summer separates; creating iconic staple designs which will continually evolve with the seasons to provide trademark capsule collections.

Inspired by the various pursuits of the urban lifestyle, each design is created with attention to detail providing form and function in equal measure. Consideration towards transitional design is encompassed within the collection, creating an easy to wear day to night wardrobe. Trends include the development of light outerwear, the Wren ¾ length raincoat and Catesby technical blazer are offered in performance Teflon-coated cotton, whilst high summer sees the introduction of style essentials: jersey shorts, pure cotton fitted vests and the new utility cargo shorts.

The first store opened at 20 Earlham St, Seven Dials Covent Garden, in August 2012 with the Autumn/Winter 2012 Collection. The webstore, foxhalllondon.com, opened for business in October, and ships Foxhall merchandise globally. Anyway enough of me, what has he got to say;

In your words, describe the collection? What was the inspiration for it? What are the key pieces in it?

It’s the complete urban wardrobe. The inspiration behind the label was the plain navy crewneck T – I didn’t know where to find a good one that was neither £20 nor £80 – rather somewhere in-between.  I asked all my friends and they didn’t know either.  I developed the idea and realised that menswear was missing a contemporary mid-price brand focusing on beautifully made wardrobe essentials fitted to a lean, body-conscious silhouette. The key pieces in our SS13 collection are the Catesby Technical Blazer – it’s a style you won’t find anywhere else, it uses technical Teflon-coated cotton with sealed-seams so it weathers wind and rain well, and it has a great sleek look that can dress smart or casual.  Then the Mayhew Light – a half-lined tailored cotton jacket, which is a perfect summer weight, which can be paired with the Symes tailored smart short – to make a very elegant summer short suit.  And finally the Bentham Light hooded cotton zip-through – a fitted, lightweight summer top in great colours that will be a comfortable holiday essential.  Those three themes comprise the Foxhall collection essentially – Urban Technical wear, Sleek Tailoring and luxe Jerseywear. The urban wardrobe covered. 

 

If you could collaborate with one brand (Who you currently aren’t) who would it be and why?

We’re into our second season and feel confident each design has been thoroughly considered. We are definitely keen to introduce, longer term, brand extensions including footwear, eyewear, technical sportswear etc. and will want to collaborate with the leading companies in their field. It’s more about working with these experts than specific brands but we’re definitely keen to align with these longer term.

 

Favourite hotel in the world?

Tough choice – probably between the Sukothai in Bangkok, the Raffles in Phnom Penh or the Oberoi in Agra.  Hotels that stand out need an exotic location, a concierge who can read you perfectly, a bar with its own atmosphere, a no-holds-barred breakfast and a pool area that feels like an event in itself – and each of those hotels delivers in all areas.

 

If you could live anywhere where would it be & Why ?

London is unquestionably top of the list. After arriving back from anywhere in the world, London is always a good place to land and call home. It’s the capital of the world for almost everything that’s important to me.

 

How did you get into the industry, what was your big break?

I got into the industry because I decided to leave Procter&Gamble. I had learnt how to build a brand, and wanted to build my own.  I saw the gap in the menswear market based on my own shopping experience, and felt that would be a good place to start. My big break, I think any entrepreneur would agree, was when my investors confirmed their interest in being involved with the project and the first day of the store opening was equally momentous– that’s when it became real.

 

What do you have to do after this conversation?

Finish the financial projections for our next 2-year business plan.  But, given it’s such a spectacular sunny day in London and they’re never to be taken for granted, I would like to be meeting a few people for long cocktails somewhere outside and park like.

 

What piece of clothing would you relegate to Room 101 ?

The chunky collegiate graphic hoodie. It’s been so remorselessly imitated and cheapened a thousand different ways. 

 

What piece of clothing should everyman have in his wardrobe?

At least 3 good white shirts – in smart, casual and summer variations. When it’s a quality piece it makes anything you wear with it look sharp. I have around 15 in my wardrobe but it’s the Foxhall ones that I wear the most now. 

 

What piece of style advice do you live by?

Buy expensive shoes.  Never gone wrong with that.

 

Who is your style icon ? Why?

Probably Vidal Sassoon.  He was so elegant in what we wore, and always dressed so effortlessly appropriately – I remember meeting with him on P&G Sassoon business on a cool-ish November morning in LA and he had just come from the gym and he looked so urbane – a fitted taupe leather biker, casual shirt and jeans – expensive and elegant but understated and casual – like he had made an effort, but not a big effort – as though it happened quite naturally, which for him I suppose it did. For me that’s the best kind of style.

 

Tell us something no one else knows?

My first-ever fashion week experiences were in 2001 in London and New York when Sassoon was still a big sponsor. I was really nervous about what to wear and what would be considered fashionable enough for fashion week. After much deliberation I just went for black from head to toe, and it totally worked. It didn’t stand out or make a bold statement but it worked, and I felt confidently a part of everything. That was the useful lesson that fashion week taught me.

 

 

FOXHALL LONDON SUMMER 2013 COLLECTION

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There’s nothing Savage about this man – A.Sauvage

Adrien Sauvage aka A. Sauvage

Adrien Sauvage aka A. Sauvage

 

Its hard to believe that A.Sauvage or Adrien Victor Sauvage has only been on the fashion scene as a brand since 2010. This force of nature swept into fashion town and quickly established himself a reputation for not only being a style maverick but a real renaissance man, who will unforgivingly not be pigeonholed, turning his hand to photography, film making and of course designing. After turning his broad back, he stands at 6ft 5, on a truly promising life as a track or basketball player, Adrien takes the rather, how can I put this, unconventional decision to become a life coach, using the name, “Untitled Muse”. Sauvage rapidly drew clients from society and celebrity circles and the worlds of rock, film, and politics, quickly morphing from life coach to stylist to designer. With no formal training in design, Sauvage created looks for his growing client base always with his mantra in mind, ‘DE’ DRESS EASY.

The A.Sauvage Working wardrobe for the Café Royal

The A.Sauvage Working wardrobe for the Café Royal

In 2010 he formally launches A.Sauvage, which literally like everything he does, quickly gains notoriety and started to produce pieces for women as well as men, due to sheer demand. Adrien’s vision to make exclusivity accessible sees the launch of the ‘Dress Easy’ collection introducing casual separates and leather goods. As a rule the brand doesn’t follow the fashion schedule, but in turn focuses on the evolving needs of its customers.

More recently he’s turned his talents to collaborate with iconic British footwear brand Dr Martens to produce one of the most desired shoe ranges in recent years. Also, when the restored London landmark hotel, The Café Royal, re-opened its doors and wanted a suitably luxurious working uniform for its staff, they naturally sort the skills of Sauvage to supply a sartorially envious ensemble.

So, of course Clothes-Make-the-Man wanted to get under the skin of this stylish raconteur and learn a little more about him;

 

 

 

 

If you could collaborate with one brand who would it be and why ?

Nike. My Autumn/Winter 2013 collection is heavily influenced by sportswear, I guess in a return to my basketball roots. I’ve always been a fan of Nike and I’d love to create a range of trainers to compliment the collection.

 

If you could give your teenage self advice, what would it be?

Dress Easy, Live Easy.

 

How did you get into the industry, what was your big break?

I started styling my friends’ wardrobes and this gradually lead to the big time, working with a large portfolio of high profile figures. In 2010 I decided to use this experience to establish my own label, House A. Sauvage. A. Sauvage has been well received since my first capsule collection, entitled ‘This Is Not A Suit’. But I suppose I felt the big break came when we moved to our flagship store on Maddox Street last year.

 

How do spent your free time ?

I like to play ball, watch ball, travel… and take long baths in between.

 

What track would always get you on the dance floor?

Michael Jackson.

 

Who would do you ideal diner guest and why?

Warhol and Saint Laurent – great minds, great creatives and great sources of inspiration.

 

What piece of clothing best describes you ?

Anything elegant, low-key and easy to wear that can be worn without a belt or cufflinks.

 

What do you have to do after this conversation?

Shoot my Spring/Summer 2013 campaign in Hong Kong.

 

What would you like to be doing after this conversation?

Interviewing you.

 

Have you ever bought a piece of clothing and regretted it? If so what & why?

I bought my girlfriend some underwear for Christmas but decided I liked her better without it.

 

Who is your style icon? Why?

Anyone can be a style icon to me if they look good and believe in what they wear. My photography focuses on Natives – from my home country Ghana, for example, or the courts of Venice Beach.

 

If you could have invented anything what would it be?

Coca-Cola, because then I’d save myself a fucking fortune.

 

A.Sauvage Spring 2013 Collection

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