A Historic Pairing – Nigel Cabourn X Fred Perry

Screen Shot 2015-04-13 at 15.39.04Nigel Cabourn and Fred Perry are two monumental names in British Menswear, both share great similarities in that they always stay true to their design principles, have never been swayed by the fads and passing trends of Fashion and both share a passion for Sport. Perry’s is a more obvious one, with his heritage deeply entrenched in tennis, but Cabourn too finds great inspiration in Sporting attire.

Premium menswear retailer, Woodhouse Clothing has been selected as one of 10 limited retailers who are housing the exclusive Nigel Cabourn for Fred Perry SS15 collection which is inspired by table tennis. The 12 piece collection which comprises of polo shirts, shorts and lightweight jackets.

Gavin Crossland, head of buying at Woodhouse said “We’re delighted that Woodhouse has been chosen to sell the Nigel Cabourn collection for spring/summer 2015. The collection is steeped in heritage and ticks all the right boxes for our consumer. As we head towards our 40th anniversary this year, it cements our position in offering exclusive brand collections.”

We were lucky enough to be invited to Nigel Cabourn’s Army Gym concept store in Covent Garden to talk with the man himself about the collection.

 

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Can you explain a bit about this collection and the thinking behind it?

This particular project is really about Fred himself. Obviously when you do a collaboration, from my point of view, it should be 50/50. I have a big interest in table tennis anyway, I was a young kid in the ‘50s and table tennis was quite a big sport then and that’s when Fred Perry began his clothing range.

When the team at Fred Perry came to me and asked would I work with them I immediately said I’d be interested but I wanted to focus on Fred because he was world champion in table tennis in 1929. They sort of dropped their jaws a little bit because I’m not sure how aware they were of that – everyone thinks of him as a Wimbledon Champion before anything else.

I said if we can do the collaboration on table tennis then we’ll do it, so basically this is a combination of my love of Ping-Pong as a kid and the fact that was where Fred really began.

Do you still play?

Oh yeah! I play a lot, I’ve got my own table and up until recently I was probably playing 4 or 5 times a week. I’m very much into keep fit but unfortunately I can’t do everything, I’m doing a lot more boxing and army training at the moment but table tennis is really good for your mind and quick thinking.

 What’s your favourite item from the collection?

The Sweat Suit is definitely my favourite, it’s basically what Fred Perry were making around 1954 and in 54/55 as a kid I was wearing that same tracksuit bottom with the over the head half zip top which was actually a football kit of the day.

I love the full suit, you’ll see from my Instagram that I’ve been wearing it a lot. I’ve been using it for everything from riding my fat bike to boxing and playing tennis, it’s great. 

Can you describe the collection in a few words?

It’s based on table tennis, it’s inspired by table tennis and it’s really what Fred Perry were specialising in from 1952. The collection is true to that and uses all of the original fabrics from the early 50’s as well as the original branding from the laurel wreath to the back neck label. It epitomises Fred Perry at the beginning. 

Can we expect any more Fred Perry x Cabourn in the future?

Well this is the first one, I’ve designed two more since then so we’ve got three collections coming out in the next 18 months and I’m pretty sure we’ll be doing another one, so it’s going to be a two year collaboration.

The next one is based on Fred training with the Arsenal football team in 1936, which again, not a lot of people know about. When he was a tennis player challenging at Wimbledon during the height of his success in tennis he was also at the training ground with Arsenal.

The next collection is heavily focused on that. It’s really cool, there’s roll neck sweaters like the old goalkeepers wore mixed in with sweat pants and tops.

Fred Perry have got such a good following and the great thing about this project is it’s a very natural one for me as you can see, you can’t just make that stuff up.

It’s a big part my heritage as well, I’m 65 for god sake and my brand is already 45 years old, Fred Perry is about 60 odd years old too. I knew a lot about this and it looks great.

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Tailoring his own path – James Sleater – Textual Conversations

Screen Shot 2015-03-26 at 10.48.24There are certain companies, individuals, brands that shun the rule books and constraints of traditional thinking, Apple, Dyson, Virgin the list goes on and a new name to add to that list is Savile Row tailors Cad & the Dandy. Who have establish themselves on dismissing the premiss that quality comes at a heavy price. They have broke with tradition and operate with the conviction that high end bespoke tailoring should be accessible to all.

Their suits offer a modern British cut, are made using age old hand tailoring techniques and are delivered with a personal touch. They don’t over complicate things, operating from intimate premises in Savile Row and The City, with our trained Savile Row tailors, cutters and finishers, offering a friendly and welcoming approach and not a whiff of a Ooo Suits your sir carry on. All of their suits start with pattern creation, done by hand and retained for all future orders.

We caught up with one half of the dynamic duo in James Sleater to put the world to rights;

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Best piece of advice you’ve ever been given?

Always put other people at ease.

If you could Dress anyone who would it be ?

Steve McQueen – he was fortunate in that he always looked effortlessly cool

What’s your Favourite movie ever ?

Zulu – It’s a combination of Great military clothing and empire and its bravado

What would be the name of your autobiography ?

Stitch it bitch.

Screen Shot 2015-03-26 at 10.50.31If you could collaborate with one brand who would it be ?

LandRover – to design new defender coming out in 2yrs – replacement of iconic british vehicle.

Favourite hotel in the world ?

The Savoy because of the amazing bar and rooms with incredible London river views.

If you could give your teenage self advice, what would it be ?

Work harder.

Who would do you ideal diner guests ?

Churchill, Thatcher, Bush Jnr, Berlosconi – Just to sit back and watch the magic happen.

What piece of clothing best describes you ?

Bespoke 3 piece suit – the finest British craftsmanship to give the ultimate silhouette and first impression.

What piece of clothing would you relegate to Room 101 ?

Rucksack – kills a suit and looks shit.

What piece of style advise do you live by ?

Always polish your shoes. The small details matter.

If you had one day to live what would be your biggest regret ?

Not having another day to live.

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Ground Control to Major Tom – Tom Joule – Textual Conversation

imageOnce upon a time in the Great British Countryside a man had a dream. The time was the late 1980’s, the man, is, Tom Joule and his dream was to establish a brand renowned for selling well made, colourful, country inspired, aspirational clothing for all the family.

Tom learnt his trade quickly, selling branded country life apparel at shows and events around Britain, his stall fast became the go-to destination for the discerning customers. In 1999, seeing a gap in the market for a design lead,  country inspired, quality clothing brand, he began selling only Joules branded products.

Fast forward, the dream has become very much a reality with 97 Joules stores, with an established wholesale business (including partnerships with John Lewis, Selfridges and Next) a successful e-commerce site and a growing International following, Joules continues to be a firm favourite for families up and down the country and the company can still be found at Britain’s leading country shows and events.

Outside of work, Tom lives a somewhat envious life in the English countryside with his family. He has a small holding with chickens, sheep, horses, rabbits, cats and a vegetable garden. In his spare time, he likes to escape to the British coastline and can regularly be found with his family on the Norfolk coast or visiting local antiques and collectables yards. Joule is an avid rugby fan, having played until the age of 40 and is a keen golfer, not a bad life then, hey ?Screen Shot 2015-03-14 at 14.00.12

If you had one day to live what would be your biggest regret?
Not spending every waking hour with my children.

What would be the one piece of clothing you would rescue from your home in the event of a fire?
An original Naval Peacoat.

What inspires you?
The coast, the countryside, New York and my Mum.

If you could only wear one brand for the rest of your life who would it be? 
If cost was no object, Brunello Cucinelli – always classically up to date, wonderful fabrics, amazing cut and accessories to die for.

Who is your style icon?
Edward VIII. He was the epitome of style, wore great clothes, had individual flair and put a unique twist on classic pieces.

What piece of clothing should everyman have in his wardrobe?
The new Joules Rainier Waterproof Mac, a must-have for every man!

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What piece of clothing would you relegate to Room 101?
Crocs.

What do you have to do after this conversation?
Review our Spring Summer 16 collection – there’s lots to look forward to!

Screen Shot 2015-03-14 at 13.59.50What would you like to be doing after this conversation?
Flying to the West Coast of the USA to play Pebble Beach Golf Course.

Who would be your ideal diner guests?
The late Richard Attenborough; a humble man with an extraordinary life. Reginald D Hunter; for his incredible wit, so dry. Anne Hathaway; need I explain!?

If you could give your teenage-self advice, what would it be?
Don’t be frightened to ask.

Favourite hotel in the world?
Hullet House, Kowloon, Hong Kong (see below)

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 If you could collaborate with one brand who would it be ?
Triumph Motorcycles. Joules take tradition and bring a modern twist using the latest fabrics and detail to work with customers’ needs. I’d love to take a brief from the likes of Triumph and put my twist on a great jacket.

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The Best Part of the Day – Luke Day – Textual Conversation

imageLuke Day‘s resume reads like a wish list for any photographer, stylist or essentially any stylish creative, wanting to cut the mustard in the cut throat Fashion industry. His Editorial credits include Attitude, i-D, Dazed & Confused, V-Man, Arena Homme +, Wonderland, not to mention being the Fashion Director of UK GQ Style but countless  GQ’s & GQ Style from around the world. His Sartorial Midas touch has been responsible for transporting numerous celebs from the Z-list of style right the way to the top of many a best dressed list. From film, music, sport and fashion if they are in need of a dapper pick me up, Luke get’s the call. Now the list of people who Day has answered the phone to, ranges from David Haye, Rhys Ifans, Joe Jonas, Levi’s, Sam Clafin, One Direction, Lyle & Scott, Max Irons, Belstaff, Channing Timageatum, Paul Smith and of course he single handedly transformed the fortunes of some 5 piece, 4 piece currently 3 piece northern band called Take That when they decided to give it another go back in 2006.

In fact in 2008 he was named in The Times UK ‘Music’s Top 20 Star-makers’, citing the industry’s most powerful and in-demand players today. Luke was the only stylist included in this list which was topped by Lucien Grainge, Chairman and CEO of Universal Music Group International, and Simon Cowell who ranked in at number 2. Stick that in your pipe, hey Louis Walsh !

imageHot of the heels of another stellar London Collections:Men for Luke where he styled shows for James Long, TOPMAN Design, Hackett and Tiger of Sweden, we had the pleasure of catching up and having a breather with this talented and ever charming man.

If you could give your teenage self advice, what would it be ?

Take more photographs. Always make time for friends. Take more holidays. You’re not here for a long time, you’re here for a good time.

How did you get into the industry, what was your big break ? 

I called up Adrian Clark, who was Fashion Director at Attitude at the time. I asked him to do a month internship. Within that month he had already let me style a cover and I just kept turning up until they created a position for me. He really was my foot in the door and mentor. I owe him a lot.

Favourite Hotel in the world ?

I love lots of hotels, I’d live in one if I could! I had my 30th birthday in The Berkeley. It was a very long, fun night so I have a fondness for it.

What would be the name of your autobiography ? 

Mother Knows Best

What’s your Favourite movie ever ?

A very difficult question. I always think the answer should be a film you can watch over and over again. I’m mad for rom-coms, I particularly like How to Lose a Guy In Ten Days

If you could Style anyone who would it be ?

Elvis Presley and One Direction.

What music are you listening to at the moment ?

New Madonna is the soundtrack to my year so far.

Best present you’ve ever received ?

I’m not so into presents, giving or receiving. I wear a piece of jewellery from a friend that passed away, that I cherish.

Who’s the most famous person’s number in your phone ?

My Take That guys I guess.

What are you most excited about at the moment ?

The next issue of GQ Style and the next season of Game of Thrones.

What track would always get you on the dance floor ?

Ride Like The Wind by Christopher Cross

Best piece of advise you’ve ever been given ?

‘Mark my word’ is a an often exclaimed term by a dear friend that often means to take his advice, generally about a person.

What piece of clothing best describes you?

That would change regularly but a white sock or speedo is pretty much my constant.

Have you ever bought a piece of clothing and regretted it ? 

It’s more what I’ve regretted not buying.

What piece of style advise do you live by?

Trust your instincts and buy rather than procrastinate. Take risks, they can pay off or you can learn from them.

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The Renaissance Man – Robin Porter, Textual Conversation

Screen Shot 2014-11-24 at 21.21.31Robin Porter is a contemporary Renaissance man in every sense of the term, whether it be designing for globally recognised fashion and sportswear brands such as Nike, Stussy and 55DSL, producing music for his label Immigrant Records or directing short films.

Porter grew up during Manchester’s acid house era of the late 80’s and the outdoor party scene of the early 90’s – this was his introduction into the emerging UK music, fashion and design culture. Taking inspiration from the attitude and output of Factory Records, Peter Saville, New Order and the iconic US DJ’s from Chicago and Detroit that played at the Hacienda during this period, he decided to give it a go himself.

Two weeks after graduating university, Porter jumped on a plane to Los Angeles with his portfolio and a bag of 12″ vinyl. He founded Immigrant Records in 1998 and helped introduce the “Tech House” sound of the UK to the US, while working with artists to create a unique sound for the label. The name Immigrant Records was a nod to living in the US without a green card, but nobody really needs to know that do they?

Now back in Manchester, he has launched A PROPER AGENCY – a boutique creative agency partnering with lifestyle brands on their strategy, product design and compelling digital content. Recent clients include So Cal menswear brand DTE of California who produce finely crafted U.S. made luxury menswear, street wear brand Judge and Jury (now available online at House Of Fraser) and L.A. based tattoo royalty ‘Jun Cha’ of Monarc Studios who just received a new brand identity from the agency.

Porter’s plans for PROPER, include building long term relationships with current clients, working with inspirational new companies and creating and launching it’s own fashion and music brands. ‘It’s all about having an international vision but maintaining that Northern integrity and sensibility.’


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What was your big break into the industry ?

I don’t ever recall a specific break but I have definitely taken the opportunities presented to me with both hands. I was fortunate to experience Manchester music scene in the late 80’s which continues to inspire my work and outlook on life. I was also obsessed with American hip-hop and sport culture and my decision to live and work in the US for 10 years opened many doors, but I’ve always been very clear about what I want to acheive. My career has been a combination of vision, passion and hard graft. 

 If you could have invented anything what would it be ?

A time transporter. For me it’s all about moments in time that changed the course of history but how about when Jordan threw down the very first dunk from the ‘free throw’ line or when DJ Pierre discovered that a piece of kit discarded by Roland called the TB-303 could actually be used to create a new musical genre coined ‘acid house’ – I’d have to be in that room to witness that epiphany. Finally I’d journey back to discover how or who created us. Deep, but I’d be sorted for life from the royalties from my book sales. 

 If you had one day to live what would be your biggest regret ?

I don’t have any regrets. Like everybody else, I’ve made mistakes in both my life and career but you can’t change what happened yesterday. I’ve been very lucky to make my passions my daily work and be paid for it so I really can’t complain. 

What inspires you ?

Traveling to new places is such a buzz, meeting new people and experiencing other cultures is both humbling and inspiring but raising my kids and watching them develop is truly a gift. Fundamentally I suppose I’m also a sucker for an underdog and there’s nothing more emotional to me than seeing someone succeed when the odds are stacked against them. 

If you could only wear one brand/Designer for the rest of your life who would it be ?

I don’t enjoy wearing one particular brand or style. I like to mix up classic sartorial with street and sportswear and Mark McNairy ticks all those boxes currently. 

If you could give your teenage self advice, what would it be ?

This is very on topic as I have an 18 and a 3 year old son. I would advise myself to maintain my individuality and never get sidetracked from achieving my goals and remember that time is precious, so don’t procrastinate and always do today rather than put off until…pretty much everything a teenager doesn’t want to hear!

Screen Shot 2014-11-24 at 21.23.01 Favourite hotel in the world ?

The Delano in Miami is always a pleasure as is as the Roosevelt in Los Angeles. 

What would be the one thing you would rescue if your house was on fire ?

After the kids it would be my hard drives containing a lifetimes body of work, photos of family and friends, plus my Techniques 1210’s and as much of my vinyl collection as I could carry. The rest is replaceable. 

 What piece of clothing would you relegate to Room 101 ?

It has to be my raving dungarees from circa 86-88. Those bad boys experienced some crazy days but the off-the-shoulder-strap vibe hasn’t been a good look since the Daisy Age. 

What is your most memorable moment ?

The mixed emotions of intense love and utter fear during the birth of my sons. No other moment has come close. 

What track would always get you on the dancefloor ?

Here’s today’s top 5…but tomorrow’s a new day.

‘Voodoo Ray’ – A Guy Called Gerald

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gGBlG12bXhc

 

‘Someday’ – Ce Ce Rogers.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DlZYz9DuZA8

 

‘Me, Myself And I’ – De La Soul

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FJEzEDMqXQQ

 

Move your Body’ – Marshall Jefferson

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QAR8cq5Bl94

 

‘Ain’t Nobody’ – Chaka Khan

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SvPZo52X5vo

 

(Right that’s us off for a dance around the photocopier)

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