Thomas Harvey, Aquascutum – Textual Conversation

 

Thomas Harvey, Aquascutum

Thomas Harvey, Aquascutum

Aquascutum is a brand with an enviable heritage and renown for its understated elegance. A cornerstone of the British fashion industry for over 160 years. Playing an intrinsic role in the history of waterproof garments, the Aquascutum brand has been lauded for fine craftsmanship, designer fabrics, and attention to detail in their pursuit of being the pinnacle of style.

The brand’s evolution began in 1853, John Emary, owner of a tailor shop in Regent Street, invented a revolutionary waterproof cloth. The cloth proved to be such a success that the company was aptly renamed Aquascutum – ‘aqua’ meaning water and ‘scutum’, which translates as ‘shield’ in Latin. Talking of Shields, Aquascutum supplied trench coats (hence the name) to our boys during both World Wars.

Now it wasn’t long before the chic and sophisticated nature of this protective piece of clothing caught the eye of many a Hollywood star and starlet, Greta Garbo and Sophia Loren parading their Aquascutum raincoats to great effect.

So with a history that encompasses clothing the likes of the Queen Mother, Winston Churchill and Humphrey Bogart, the stalwart legacy of Aquascutum continues to influence its fashion collections today

Enough about the History of the brand, we wanna know what’s going on now in the 21st Century. Well, for Autumn we see an iconic Ad campaign(see images below) Shot by renowned fashion photographer Alasdair McLellan and featuring award winning British actor Damian Lewis, yes, aka Nick Brody !!!and enigmatic British supermodel Eliza Cummings. McLellan photographs the couple in elegant black and white portraits under the atmospheric iron arches of Macclesfield bridge on London’s Regent’s Canal. The romantic and cinematic environment captures the two in intimate stolen moments.

The gentleman in charge of helming the contemporary and creative output of this historic house has a resume that covers diverse brands including Marc Jacobs, Duckie Brown, Reiss plus of course Aquacutum, the house is in safe and protective hands with Thomas Harvey. So lets learn a little more about this man.

The Flagship Menswear Store on London's, Jermyn Street

The Flagship Menswear Store on London’s, Jermyn Street

If you could only wear the clothes of one brand for the rest of your life who would it be ?

If I was to be restricted to buying from just one place, I would go bespoke and use Richie Charlton, who cuts the suits I currently wear when I’m not wearing Aquascutum. The key to building a good wardrobe is buying staple pieces from different brands, as depending on which category you’re shopping for, your go-to brand should change.

If you only had one day to live what would be your biggest regret ?

I try not to live my life with regrets, if there’s something I want to do then I generally try to find a way to make it happen.

What inspires you ?

People, travelling – we try to design clothes at Aquascutum for real people so we always ask ourselves when designing whether your average gentleman on the street would feel comfortable in what we offer.

What would be the one thing you would rescue if your house was on fire ?

My Grandfather’s war medals and uniform

Who is your style icon ?

Douglas Hayward – he’s the person I looked up to in the early stages of my career and helped dress many inspirational people over the years

What style advice do you live by ?

Don’t take yourself too seriously. Be comfortable in your own appearance, where you can, buy quality staples pieces over fast fashion items that won’t last.

If you could collaborate with one brand who would it be?

We collaborated with Anthony Gormley and Esquire to create an electroplated suit in 2009 when I was at the brand previously. It would be interesting to do more projects like this, where the boundaries of art and fashion collide. I also really admire Andreas Gursky’s work – I like his photography and it would be interesting to see what influence or twist he could give on Aquascutum

If you could give your teenage self advice, what would it be ?

Travel more, see the world when young and do as much as you can to gain as much vaired experience as possible.

What piece of clothing should everyman have in his wardrobe ?

A well cut navy suit dressed up or down, it works for all occasions.

Tell us what your favourite hotel in the world is ?

Blackberry Farm in Tennessee – I spent last New Year’s here. It’s the perfect place to forget about the world – from time to time I like to get out of London, and immerse myself in country life.

What piece of clothing would you relegate to Room 101 ?

Club check baseball caps!

PREVIEW OF THE AUTUMN AD CAMPAIGN

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London Collections:Men Designer Profile – Jeremy Hackett

imageJeremy Hackett is a name which has become synonymous with British Style and the best of British tailoring.  After set up his Business in 1983 with the first store bearing the Hackett name, on the Kings Road. Selling vintage men’s clothes and accessories, discovered in house clearances and antique markets, Hackett soon gained cult status amongst London’s sartorially inclined. Word quickly spread abroad and soon Americans and Japanese, as well as French, Italians and other Europeans, were making the journey to the “wrong end” of the King’s Road in search of “le style Anglais”. It soon became apparent, however, that market demand would always exceed the supply of vintage men’s clothes and accessories, so Hackett and decided that the answer was to reproduce new clothes made from natural fibres in traditional English styles.

Today, Hackett has continued its expansion with Galeries Lafayette in Paris being added to the prestigious list of department stores alongside Harrods and Harvey Nichols. Hackett franchises have opened stores in Geneva, Zurich, Kuwait City, Johannesburg Airport, Cape Town, Amsterdam, Pozuelo (Madrid), Knokke (Belgium), Brussels, Delhi, Bangalore, Chandigarh, Shanghai, Shenyang and Kuala Lumpur.

As well as the development of the stores’ look and feel, the Hackett clothing and accessories collections were refreshed by taking inspiration from the early DNA of the brand and the new slogan “Essential British Kit”. Key additions to the collection included the “Hackett Mayfair”, “Aston Martin Racing” and “Little Britons” ranges.

The Hackett Mayfair collection embodies the lifestyle of the late 1950s and early 1960s gentleman. Inspired by the iconic photography of Bailey, O’Neill, Donovan and Duffy, the signature streamlined tailoring takes London’s legendary Savile Row as its starting point. What began as a single suit has now evolved into a full range of formalwear and gentlemen’s club-style accessories: all presented under its own exclusive Hackett Mayfair logo of bowler hat and crossed umbrellas.

2012 proved to be a very successful year for Hackett. In June 2012, Hackett was one of the pioneers of the British Fashion Council’s new men’s fashion week – London Collections:Men. Launched to showcase the UK’s wealth of menswear talent, the Hackett London collection was successfully premiered to international buyers and press. Now in its fifth season, the Hackett show is one of the most anticipated during the biannual event and an established fixture on the LC:M schedule.

For it’s Autumn 2014 show Hackett experienced perfect serendipity, the right location, at the right time, with the right collection. It celebrated the age of stylish travel, a global traveller, the collection styled the different characters of ‘The Leading Man’ on his global travels.

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In our exclusive insight Jeremy he describes his Spring/Summer 2015 collection as, “We are well recognised for our sporting sponsorships so we have built the collection around Spectator Kit, what to wear for instance to the polo or Henley or to watch Aston Martin Racing or what would be perfect to wear to a tennis tournament ( coincidentally I am writing this between watching the tennis at Queens our latest sponsorship )”. Anyway enough of me.

If you could have invented anything what would it be ?
Although I am not personally on Facebook I wouldn’t have minded inventing it.

If you had one day to live what would be your biggest regret ?
That I never learnt any foreign languages, to be honest I still struggle with English.

Favourite hotel in the world ?
Over the years I have been to New York quite regularly and I stay at The Carlyle where the service is perfect and the cocktail bar even better.

If you could collaborate with one brand who would it be and why ?
I really like watches because it is one of the few accessories men can wear so I would like the opportunity to collaborate with say, IWC. The Mark 15 Pilots watch was the first that I owned.

If you could give your teenage self advice, what would it be ?
Believe in yourself because if you don’t why should others. Also have a good financial partner.

How did you get into the industry, what was your big break ?
My father once said to me ” If you don’t pull your socks up you will end up working in a shop”. Fortunately that is exactly what happened. Clothes at the time were one of the few things that I had an aptitude for. When I opened Hackett in 1983 it was more as a bit of fun and a way to sell some second hand kit, and when I started to make new clothes it was the birth of the brand and I haven’t looked back since.

If you could only wear one brand/Designer for the rest of your life who would it be ?
Being able to have my clothes made by a good tailor would be my ideal as I could determine the outcome.

Who is your style icon ?
David Hockney who dresses as well as he paints.

What piece of clothing should everyman have in his wardrobe ?
At the risk of repeating myself I would consider the navy blazer to be a vital part of any man’s wardrobe. It can be dressed up or down.

Who would do you ideal diner guests and why ?
Stephen Fry, he is so engaging and would make any dinner party swing and the fact that we dress him for the BAFTA’s is by the way. Sorry that’s it,back to the tennis.

 HACKETT MAYFAIR COLLECTION FOR AUTUMN 2014

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The Superguy from Superdry, James Holder – Textual Conversation

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Superdry has become a juggernaut of a fashion brand in what seems to be a blink of an eye, if anyone was in doubt of its status as an aspirational brand  all they need do is visit, the frankly enormous, flagship emporium of the brand which along with another stella British Designer name, in Burberry dominate the retail architecture of Regent Street. Plus, on a recent jaunt to Egypt, Superdry was quite clearly amongst the top five Fashion brands who were subject to the highest form of flattery, if you know what I mean.

So where did the journey for this Superbrand’s begin ? Well of all places, believe it or not, that Fashion Capital, Cheltenham. This is where Julian Dunkerton, founder of CULT Clothing, joined forces with designer James Holder who had previously founded the Bench brand, to develop and create a new in-house brand and Superdry was born.

Instantly recognising a gap in the market James and Julian travel to Japan in 2003, where Julian’s passion for vintage Americana and James’s love of Japanese imagery, plus their shared love of British tailored fits, all came together to create this shared vision. Since this point the brand have managed to entice one or two celebrity fans including David Beckham, Leonardo DiCaprio and Kate Winslet to name but a few.

As the brand has grown, James has turned his creative eye to new areas including launching womenswear and denim along with unexpected collaborations with established British designers and brands including Joseph Cheaney and Timothy Everest. More, recently, Superdry have played a key and interesting role in establishing London Collections:Men as the premier destination in the Menswear Fashion calendar.

As we conducted this interview there where projects for the brand going on in Coachella LA, Snowbombing in Austria and planning a top Secret event to coincide with LC:M next month. To say James is a busy man is kind of an understatement in atomic proportions.

If you had one day to live what would be your biggest regret?
I don’t really have any major regrets, I have an incredible family, both personally and at Superdry… we work closely together and many of the teams are friends as well as colleagues. I truly believe in pushing boundaries, living each day to the full and filling it so it is literally overflowing, meaning there is little time to reflect or regret.

I have a positive outlook and this helps my creative flow. Life is good.

What would be the one piece of clothing you would rescue from your home in the event of a fire?image
My absolute favorite at the moment is our forthcoming Diablo biker jacket… (pictured above) the quality, fit and heritage detail is off the scale, a true rock and roll piece.

Who is your style icon ?
For menswear, although it may considered to be a little clichéd, I think that David Beckham has impeccable style… whatever he wears looks effortless and of the moment. Like Superdry, he doesn’t follow trends although when he chooses a style he defines it.

Tell us something no one else knows ?
Branding doesn’t have to be in your face to work. We are continually designing garments that are extremely branded but done in such a highly considered, intelligent manner that the design works and no one notices the quantity of discreet Superdry logos being used. We also devote as much time and effort to the inside of garments as we do the outside and it is within these internals that we can be more vibrant and bold with our designs. These styles often became best sellers and attract customers of different demographics.

Can you tie a bow tie ? If yes, who taught you ?
Currently not, but I would have to be shown only once to learn.

My tailoring style is sharp but more relaxed. Dinner jackets have to be millimeter perfect slim and these will be paired with high cotton white shirting, skinny dark jeans and a burnished saddle leather belt.
Have you ever bought a piece of clothing and regretted it ? 
Since the birth of the brand (over 10 years ago) rightly or wrongly I’ve only worn Superdry. If the garment didn’t exist within our wardrobes we wouldn’t have created it.

Working so closely with the whole design team, I genuinely love and believe in every incredible product in the collection. For me, there’s little need to look elsewhere.

I am sure during my hedonistic 90s there may have been some acid house inspired faux pas but I cannot recall any specific horrors.

What do you have to do after this conversation?
My life is a constant juggle of roles and job responsibilities: one moment I may be looking at fixtures for a new store, then overseeing detail for an event, attending board meetings, approving a new fragrances, accessory ranges, detail on a new zip or perhaps choosing the perfect leather for watch straps… it is utterly diverse.

Today, however, I am flying back from the Superdry Snow event in Austria. Superdry partnered with cult festival Snowbombing where we launched our technical ski wear line to the Fashion press and held a weeks worth of DJ events in the Superdry Arctic Disco on top of a mountain. After that I will be talking to our team who are in LA for a secret event we are organising, at the Coachella music and art festival (coachella.com). Following that we begin our line review to approve the SS15 products and a call with the British Fashion Council to discuss ideas for the next London Collections: Men. If I can get out of the office before it gets dark, I will go for a cross-country run. I live in the middle of the Cotswold’s and hard running helps me relax and is part of my personal mantra – a good physical state of mind and body stands you in good stead – I always have to push myself both professionally and physically.

What piece of clothing best describes you?
I would say a Premium Superdry leather biker. Something with an impeccable, slim silhouette that is steeped with integrity, cuts a rock and roll style and never let’s you down.

What track would always get you on the dancefloor ?
Anything from Black Butter Records is good, from Rudimental to Clean Bandit – it has to have an all-encompassing bass that captures you. As a die hard illegal acid house raver, anything epic and electronic will usually does the trick with the new incarnation of The Prodigy being the perfect example.

Check out the lineup for the last Superdry Arctic Disco at the recent Snowbombing event for an insight into my musical preference.

What is your most memorable moment?
From a personal point of view it has to be the birth of my son, the meeting of my partner Charlotte and the impending arrival of our baby daughter. That gives purpose to my crazy world.

From a business point of view, I still get a buzz when I see people walking down the street in far-flung countries wearing our product – this is always a moment for me… even today I am straight on the phone to my partner Julian to tell him where we are being worn.

If you could give your teenage self advice, what would it be?
Trust your instinct and take risks. Mistakes will be made along the way but the successes should far out weigh them and define you as a person and brand.

If you could collaborate with one brand, who would it be and why?
It would have to be someone who shares our passion and dynamic; someone with integrity and to whom design and progression – both through people and product – are the driving factors.
We have so much talent here in Britain with heritage and Great British design values being of paramount importance. Working with like-minded contemporary British tailor Timothy Everest showed me how successful a collaboration with the right partner can be. I am always keen to work with new and exciting talent and when the right, long-term opportunities with brands or individuals come along we will do more of them.

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Textual Conversation – Timothy Everest

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Timothy Everest built his business purely on a hunch he had back in the 1990’s, he felt the male consumer at that time was ready and primed to be, as he put it, “introduce a new generation to the joys of handmade clothing – investment pieces that were built to last.”

Putting it mildly, he couldn’t have been more correct,  twenty years later, Everest presides over a bespoke tailoring business with clients ranging from art dealers to accountants to rock stars, whom he encourages to dress as (in) appropriately as they wish. He’s proud of the fact his brand has no “House Style” and passionately believes, “We’re about individuality, and expressing your personality through style, shape, and all the quirky little details that make each commission uunique.”

Its this unique approach to dressing and Everest’s healthy disdain for the stuffiness of Savile Row, which was most probably instilled into him during his apprenticeship with Master and Maverick Tailor, Tommy Nutter (the legendarily iconoclastic tailor to the Beatles and Rolling Stones in the 60s and 70s), that sees his approach to his clients as begging very hands on. He sees each of his customers as indivduals and establishing a relationship with them is paramount to Everest. He feels,  “We’re for people who’ve gone beyond the dictates of high fashion and want a modern, invigorated, very British, not-tooo-reverent take on contemporary tailoring.” This down to earth and refreshing approach to tailoring has seen Timothy collaborate with a complete sprectrum of brands including Marks & Spencer, Superdry, The England Football team and his love of bikes brought him together with both Rapha and Brooks. Anyway enough of me, lets hear from the man himself and learn a little more about what makes him tick.

If you could have invented anything what would it be?

The fold up bike

If you had one day to live what would be your biggest regret ?

Not telling my family I love then even more than I do already…

What inspires you?

Spitalfields and everything in it. I also love travelling and often get flashes of inspiration from different cultures and food also inspires me.

What’s your favourite piece of clothing ?

My new three-piece Prince of Wales suit with tapered trouser leg

If you could only wear one brand for the rest of your life who would it be?

I’m a big fan of Maison Martin Margiela. I love the simplicity and careful cut of his work

Who is your style icon?

David Bowie. The epitome of individual style, Bowie knew how to push the boundaries and had the confidence to break down style barriers.

What piece of style advice do you live by?

Always dress for yourself.

What piece of clothing should everyman have in his wardrobe?

A well-tailored jacket (I am biased!)

If you could live anywhere where would it be?

I’m just back from a stint to the West Coast of America for a collaboration I did with Woolmark, I could definitely live in Palm Springs, or California, its got so many positive people there, and each day definitely has a sunny disposition about it

 

Carolyn Massey of Lyle & Scott -Textual Conversation

imageFor today’s Textual Conversation we had the utter pleasure of catching up with Carolyn Massey, head of design for British Heritage brand Lyle & Scott. After completing her MA in Menswear at the Royal College of Art, Carolyn launched her own successful and critically acclaimed label under her own name. She was awarded the NEWGEN MEN award by the British Fashion Council three consistent times which allowed Carolyn to present catwalk on the official London Fashion Week schedule. Then in 2012 Massey was appointed Head of Design at Lyle & Scott to create on brand concept and direction. 2014 is an achievement of a year for Lyle & Scoot who celebrate their 140 anniversary !!! The brand prides itself on seven brand pillars that underpin Lyle & Scott today. Its heritage is unrivalled. Its Britishness is a given. It will always be premium quality. Its close relationship with golf informs the design aesthetic. The Classic designs offer a timeless style. A contemporary outlook is essential. And a refusal to conform comes from a strong sense of self.

So for Spring 14 we see the brand looking back through the archives and delving into the roots of the brand to create an 11 piece premium line. The collection exclusively features the original ‘L&S ltd’ logo which is indicative of where the brand started. Alongside this, the embroidered tonal eagle sits proudly on the sleeve subtly recognising where the brand is today.

Unlike the bright colours the brand has become associated with due to its strong golfing heritage, the palette is drawn from the Lyle & Scott tartan forming sedated Scottish tones ofberry, blue, black, navy and ivory. Ohh and is only available for the anniversary year, so get your skates on. Ave a read….

If you could collaborate with one brand who would it be and why?

We have 2 really exciting collaborations coming up for AW14with 2 very different designers that are totally relevant to the brand. One is the Glasgow born Jonathan Saunders for the Scottish kinship and the other is Universal Works for David Keyte’s personal history & relationship with the brand. In the future I’d love to work with an artist, Lyle & Scott has such a history in colour, someone who could reflect that. Watch this space!

 

If you could give your teenage self advice, what would it be?

Trust your intuition. Know yourself. These things come after time and experience, as a creative I often don’t know why I’m doing things at the time, but know myself well enough these days to trust that part of the process.

 

How did you get into the industry, what was your big break ?

I studied a BA and then a Masters degree in Menswear. I’ve been lucky to have a few big breaks, working alongside some fantastic people. Getting sponsored by Topman to show on schedule at London Mens’ was always going to be a great highlight.

 

What track would always get you on the dance floor?

‘I wanna dance with somebody’ by Whitney Houston, clearly…

 

Who would your ideal dinner guests be ?

Oh wow.. that’s a question- Joseph Heller (Author of myfavourite book “Catch 22”), August Sander (Photographer who travelled through pre-war Germany photographing tinkers, vagrants and circus-folk amongst others- his book Citizens of the Twentieth Century is a firm favourite and a book I turn to for constant inspiration), Brian Clough (you’ve got to have one controversial character at the dinnertable), Massimo Osti (so that I can charm my way into his archive), Oliver Sacks (author of one of my favourite books “The man who mistook his wife for a hat”) and my Grandfather.

 

What piece of clothing best describes you?

I’d like to think I’m Churches’ monkstrap brogue. Black in winter, brown in summer.

 

What do you have to do after this conversation?

I’m preparing for a presentation to the business about how one of our new ranges should look.

 

Have you ever bought a piece of clothing and regretted it? 

Always! Particuarly in my fashion student days. A rather fetching over sequined top springs to mind. My tutor at the time, the wonderful Ike Rust, told me I reminded him of an out of season Christmas bauble. It wasn’t the most the most stylish of tops! Now I tend to buy once and buy well, but I do get bored of clothes quite quickly.

 

What piece of clothing should every man have in his wardrobe?

Why a Lyle & Scott Lambswool jumper of course! Seriously though, its a really great piece, something we are really proud of, a true part of our 140 year heritage.

 

Who is your style icon? Why?

I’ve got some amazing print outs above my desk of guys wearing Lyle & Scott in the 80s – peoples dads, lads out watching football, boys in teenage bedrooms. These men are my style heroes and inspiration.

 

If you had one day to live what would be your biggest regret?

I don’t have regrets- it’s a waste of energy!

Lyle & Scott 140 Anniversary range

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