It isn’t often that you can say this about your interviewee, that they changed the modern landscape of Fashion, but in Stuart Trevor‘s case, this is very much the fact. After spending seven years as Head of Menswear at, high Strett retailer, Reiss, Trevor founded All Saints in October 1994. Followed by his wife, Kait Bolongaro joining him in 1996. They developed their vision of a totally new genre of fashion and design, creating a cool, indie label with a grungy, distressed Rock DNA. It became super popular changed the way guys dressed and became much copied, sorry source of inspiration, for many brands from high street to high end.

The duo sold off the company in 2005 and after a period of holidaying and twiddling their thumbs they launched Bolongaro Trevor in 2006. This was a natural progression for them as designers – slightly mature in its outlook, more sophisticated and a real emphasis on quality. Bolongaro Trevor collections have a cleaner edge, blending British Victorian with vintage military and contemporary British street style and iconic subcultures– taking inspiration every season from musical genres such as Teddy boys, Mods, Skins, Punk, & New Wave. The collections are unique yet remain totally wearable and through this, the brand has successfully built up a major following with British actors, models, designers and bands, including Paul Weller, the Who, The Kings of Leon, Gwen Stefani, Liam Gallagher and Daisy Lowe.

The brand currently has four standalone stores in the UK with an imminent opening in Westfield Stratford with plans to open further stores across Britain and internationally in the next five years. Bolongaro Trevor has also been stocked in Selfridges, as well as internationally in cities such as Tokyo, Paris, Stockholm and New York.

If you could have invented anything what would it be ?

As a child, I was obsessed with the idea of inventing a source of energy that was perpetual, a Dynamo that could generate energy that magnified through transformers could produce more energy than was needed for the Dynamo to produce more energy. I am convinced that solar energy can transform the worlds energy problems today and I am pretty sure that there will be advances in science that will revolutionise the worlds problems within our lifetime – something that Elon Musk is working on today 

Best piece of advise you’ve ever been given and by whom?

I once was offered the role of Head Designer at Club Monaco the day I was offered the chance to launch All Saints. The CEO Joe Mimran told me to go for it as he once started CM and if it didn’t work out I could always get back to him. I bumped into him again years later and thanked him of course

What track would always get you on the dance floor ?

She Sells Sanctuary by The Cult. I could design a whole collection based on the lyrics “The sparkle in her eyes, keeps me alive! And the fire in her eyes, keeps me alive, keeps me alive!”

Who’s the most famous person’s number in your phone ?

Roger Daltrey

What are you most excited about at the moment ?

The new store we’re opening in Westfield Stratford City, a new chapter in Bolongaro Trevor as it will introduce the brand to a whole new group of people. The world has changed and many of our friends, our contemporaries, our generation, are now heading to this kind of mall, with their kiddies, and they’re looking for something other than High Street brands – I’m convinced of this by the positive feedback I’m hearing from so many of our friends, from all walks of life, people that I would never have thought would actually ever enjoy shopping there

What would be the name of your autobiography ? 

“Why All Saints? Because the rest of them are All C#nts!” 

Although my mum would hate that, maybe it would have to be toned down, I don’t like the overuse of that word either, however it would have to relate to All Saints as I would like to sell more than 100 copies! And I had a lot of fun creating the brand from scratch

If you could collaborate with one brand who would it be and why ?

Probably Paul Smith as I have always admired him and all that he has achieved. I nearly joined him when I graduated. I also think that I could bring something to his brand that they have never really covered or Ralph Lauren, for the same reasons

Favourite hotel in the world ?

Chateau Marmont in LA (above) – I once stayed in bungalow no 3 for a week, the one that James Belushi died in, we had a few amazing parties in there over New Year back in 1996, they kicked us out on New Years Day, after the 2nd big night!

If you could give your teenage self advice, what would it be ?

If you ever make a few million, invest most of it in U.S. Gold – the dollar was 2 to the pound and it increased in value 16 times in 2006-2007

How did you get into the industry, what was your big break ?

I won the Smirnoff Fashion Award for Menswear at The Royal Albert Hall in 1988 which was televised and David Reiss called the University and insisted I came to meet him and he offered me the job as his first ever designer/buyer

Who would do you ideal diner guests ?

David Bowie, Bryan Ferry, Roger Daltrey, Rod Stewart, Debbie Harry, Siouxsie Sioux, Marianne Faithful, Yoko Ono, John Lennon, Bob Dylan, Bob Marley & Kate Bush – to discuss their life, their music and inspirations. Yves Saint Laurent, Cristobal Balenciaga, Christian Dior, Elsa Schiaperelli, Jean Paul Gaultier, Vivienne Westwood & Kait Bolongaro – to discuss their life, their inspirations and fashion. Charlie Chaplin, Charles Bukowski and Albert Einstein to discuss their life’s work and their philosophy. Now that’s a party

What do you have to do after this conversation ?

A few emails and go to bed with my beautiful wife

What would you like to be doing after this conversation ?

Night diving in The Maldives

What piece of clothing would you relegate to Room 101 ?

Boot cut jeans for men

Our picks of the Bolongaro Trevor Autumn 15 collection 

Before becoming Head of Menswear for one of the the most respected and iconic of British brands, Ian Bergin, was Managing Director of men’s fashion brand One True Saxon, a brand he founded 11 years ago. Prior to that Ian spent over 10 years with Paul Smith in various roles including Brand Director R. Newbold (Paul Smith Japan), Brand Director Paul Smith Jeans and culminating with Divisional Director Paul Smith Casualwear.  But it’s with Barbour Bergin has made the most impact. He is responsible for the overall design direction and strategy for all of the menswear collections for Barbour and Barbour International, developing ranges with his team for each brand for Spring/Summer and Autumn/Winter from outerwear through to shirts, knits, trousers, footwear and accessories.

However, the Barbour story dates back well before Ian joined the company in 2010. It began in 1894 in South Shields in the North East of England. Founder John Barbour began supplying oilskins and other garments to protect the growing community of sailors, fishermen and dockers. These first weatherproof items quickly established Barbour’s reputation for innovation and quality.

Today, Barbour remains a fifth generation family business and has grown into a lifestyle brand offering a wardrobe of stylish functional clothing for men, women and children inspired by the unique values of the British countryside. This includes shirts, trousers, knitwear, accessories and footwear alongside Barbour’s legendary outerwear. The iconic wax jackets continue to be made by hand in Barbour’s factory in South Shields.

For Autumn 2015 Barbour are to reveal one of their best and most exciting collaborations to date, the first collaborative Autumn/Winter collection for global markets, with Japanese brand, White Mountaineering. The collection focuses on combinations of fabrics – waxes, corduroys, leathers and tweeds to create intricate clothing based on Barbour’s heritage and Britishness with White Mountaineering’s high attention to detail.

Founded in 2006 in Japan, the White Mountaineering name was inspired by the dominance of concrete buildings in Tokyo which appear to glow white. The company is renowned for its imagination in combining design, utility and technology into its garments and since 2006 has been producing rugged, heritage inspired collections with a strong emphasis on fabrics, construction and technical features.

Yosuke Aizawa, Designer, White Mountaineering said “I grew up with an understanding of Barbour and from our first collection together, I believe I have created collections which incorporate both White Mountaineering’s design and Barbour’s original functionality. The more you get to know Barbour’s history and the North East of England’s landscape, the more you feel interested and excited about the brand’s craftsmanship. It is in this amazing environment that our creation is being carried out.”

What’s your favourite piece of clothing?

Barbour ANTIQUE A7. Lightweight Wax international from 1978. Beautiful worn hickory/ black 6 oz black motorcycle jacket. Grey cord collar and plain black capped snaps.

If you could only wear one brand for the rest of your life who would it be?

Well I’d have to say Barbour quite genuinely as it’s just so timeless and offers such a great wearable range for so many ages. It’s that great understated style and reserve and rugged construction that’s so appealing.

For Formal I still like Paul Smith. His mainline is great and he uses lots of really interesting influences. Properly cut suits in my opinion. If his brand was a dog it would be an Irish Wolfhound. Effortlessly stylish.

Who is your style icon?

Michael Caine. Sharp and smart but masculine. In his heyday he looked properly cool but not as if he’d spent half an hour thinking about it.

Clint Eastwood in the 1970’s especially the Dirty Harry films. Outrageously cool haircut and sharp style.

Best piece of advice you’ve ever been given?

About business- Sales are Vanity, profit is sanity, cash is king. And make sure you choose your business partners with care.

I do like Groucho Marx’s view. –something like- “Life is about Honesty and Fair dealing and if you can fake that you’ve got it made”

What are you most excited about at the moment?

The new Star Wars Film directed by JJ Abrams. He’s a great homage Director and although I’m not a Star Wars loon I saw all the original films as a boy when they were first released and totally loved them.

I’m excited about buying a new car- Audi RS6- the Mike Tyson of the Motoring World or a classic 911 which is all about the drive. I do a lot of research and stretch it out. Been saving for these so looking forward to finally making a decision.

If you could collaborate with one brand, who would it be?

I’d like to collaborate with one of the original Massimo Osti Brands such as CP or Stone Island. They were icons when I was growing up and his design ethos was extremely impressive. I’d also like to work with an industrial designer like Tom Dixon or Marc Newman as they would bring a totally different mind-set to the product.

If you could live anywhere where would it be and why?

San Francisco. Love it there. It’s where I got married. The climate. The food. The fact you can drive up or down the western Seaboard up to Seattle or Down to San Diego and its all so evocative and exciting.

Closer- actually North west Majorca. Stunning, great food, great hikes, great weather really easy to get anywhere in Europe in a few hours.

Favourite hotel in the world?

Hotel Tresaunton. St Mawes. A lesson in how a small hotel should be run. Its owned by Alex Polizzi so it should be good and it is. Great location, laidback but totally professional staff, lovely food.

If you could give your teenage self some advice, what would it be?

Don’t sweat the small stuff and buy your own Wahl hair clippers and give yourself a number 4. You never look back.

How did you get into the industry, what was your big break?

When I left University ( I studied Politics) I worked as an electricians mate during the housing boom in Buckinghamshire. Eventually I moved back to London after earning some money and thought I should find a “ Proper,” job. I eventually got a job at Arthur Andersen in London as a Management Consultant. On my first day I was given a plastic briefcase and calculator. I thought this isn’t me and promptly left immediately. I walked back across the Strand and up through Covent Garden and happened to pass the Paul Smith Shop on Floral St where there was a small hand written sign in the window saying “ Help wanted”

I went in and met Paul and worked for him for 14 years. I loved it.

Who would be your ideal diner guests?

Icon- Ernest Shackleton. His book “South” and the story of the doomed Endurance expedition is totally inspiring. Vanessa Paradis. You’d just have to wouldn’t you?

What piece of clothing would you relegate to Room 101?

I have a pair of old “Ball “ jeans from Italy bought years ago in the “ Underground Market “ in Manchester. The’re really baggy. It’s really not a good look either then or now.

The Autumn 2015 Barbour X White Mountaineering Collaboration Preview

Sam Phillips is a busy man with a career which can only be described as on the up, not only currently starring in the latest adaptation of Thomas Hardy’s Classic ‘From from the Madding Crowd’ with somebody called Michael Sheen and some girl called Carey Mulligan. But is also to be seen in the third season of the BBC’s hugely popular drama The Syndicate. The all new season is written by BAFTA winning writer Kay Mellor and will see Sam play the role of ‘Spencer’, stepson of ‘Lord Hazelwood’ (Anthony Andrews) and self-righteous heir to the once impressive, now debt ridden Hazelwood Manor. Phillips’ past work has included a heady mix of Stage, Screen and TV work from ‘Inherit the Wind’ with Kevin Spacey at the Old Vic to contemporary tale ‘Late Night Shopping‘ with Sienna Guillory to the Cult BBC3 drama ‘In the Flesh‘. Inbetween all this running around Sam managed to find the time to squeeze in a couple of questions from Clothes-Make-the-Man 

What would be the name of your autobiography ?

I’ll Start Again On Monday

What’s your Favourite movie ever ?

Dead Man’s Shoes

If you could give your teenage self advice, what would it be ?

Stop being so lazy!

What track would always get you on the dance floor ?

‘I Want You Back’ by Jackson 5

Best present you’ve ever received ?

My Fender acoustic guitar on my 13th birthday.

Who’s the most famous person’s number in your phone ?

Kevin Spacey. We worked together at the Old Vic.

Favourite hotel in the world ?

The Banyan Tree in Bintan, Indonesia.

What is you most memorable moment ?

Getting a standing ovation when I was doing my first job in town. Can’t beat that feeling!

How do spent your free time ?

Eating out, going to the gym and watching films.

What piece of clothing best describes you ? 

A pair of distressed jeans- sturdy, practical and a bit rough around the edges.

If you could give £1,000,000 to someone who would it be ? 

www.arts-emergency.org. The arts need it right now.

Who would be your ideal diner guest ?

Jimmy Hendrix. I’d suggest we eat our food quickly so he could give me a guitar lesson and share his stories!

What piece of style advise do you live by ?

Never mismatch your socks.

 What piece of clothing should everyman have in his wardrobe ?

 A good pair of brogues.

Can you tie a bow tie ? If yes, who taught you ?

Yes. I was taught by a wardrobe mistress for a play I was in.

Who is your style icon ? 

Tom Ford. He makes a fine suit.

If you could only wear one brand for the rest of your life who would it be ? 

Acne. I love their Scandie style.

Sam is appearing in Far From the Madding Crowd in cinemas now and BBC’s The Syndicate 3 in June

Leading Image by Ben Johnson

Image From Far from the Madding Crowd by Alex Bailey

As Sergeant Doggett in Far from the Madding Crowd

Nigel Cabourn and Fred Perry are two monumental names in British Menswear, both share great similarities in that they always stay true to their design principles, have never been swayed by the fads and passing trends of Fashion and both share a passion for Sport. Perry’s is a more obvious one, with his heritage deeply entrenched in tennis, but Cabourn too finds great inspiration in Sporting attire.

Premium menswear retailer, Woodhouse Clothing has been selected as one of 10 limited retailers who are housing the exclusive Nigel Cabourn for Fred Perry SS15 collection which is inspired by table tennis. The 12 piece collection which comprises of polo shirts, shorts and lightweight jackets.

Gavin Crossland, head of buying at Woodhouse said “We’re delighted that Woodhouse has been chosen to sell the Nigel Cabourn collection for spring/summer 2015. The collection is steeped in heritage and ticks all the right boxes for our consumer. As we head towards our 40th anniversary this year, it cements our position in offering exclusive brand collections.”

We were lucky enough to be invited to Nigel Cabourn’s Army Gym concept store in Covent Garden to talk with the man himself about the collection.

Can you explain a bit about this collection and the thinking behind it?

This particular project is really about Fred himself. Obviously when you do a collaboration, from my point of view, it should be 50/50. I have a big interest in table tennis anyway, I was a young kid in the ‘50s and table tennis was quite a big sport then and that’s when Fred Perry began his clothing range.

When the team at Fred Perry came to me and asked would I work with them I immediately said I’d be interested but I wanted to focus on Fred because he was world champion in table tennis in 1929. They sort of dropped their jaws a little bit because I’m not sure how aware they were of that – everyone thinks of him as a Wimbledon Champion before anything else.

I said if we can do the collaboration on table tennis then we’ll do it, so basically this is a combination of my love of Ping-Pong as a kid and the fact that was where Fred really began.

Do you still play?

Oh yeah! I play a lot, I’ve got my own table and up until recently I was probably playing 4 or 5 times a week. I’m very much into keep fit but unfortunately I can’t do everything, I’m doing a lot more boxing and army training at the moment but table tennis is really good for your mind and quick thinking.

 What’s your favourite item from the collection?

The Sweat Suit is definitely my favourite, it’s basically what Fred Perry were making around 1954 and in 54/55 as a kid I was wearing that same tracksuit bottom with the over the head half zip top which was actually a football kit of the day.

I love the full suit, you’ll see from my Instagram that I’ve been wearing it a lot. I’ve been using it for everything from riding my fat bike to boxing and playing tennis, it’s great. 

Can you describe the collection in a few words?

It’s based on table tennis, it’s inspired by table tennis and it’s really what Fred Perry were specialising in from 1952. The collection is true to that and uses all of the original fabrics from the early 50’s as well as the original branding from the laurel wreath to the back neck label. It epitomises Fred Perry at the beginning. 

Can we expect any more Fred Perry x Cabourn in the future?

Well this is the first one, I’ve designed two more since then so we’ve got three collections coming out in the next 18 months and I’m pretty sure we’ll be doing another one, so it’s going to be a two year collaboration.

The next one is based on Fred training with the Arsenal football team in 1936, which again, not a lot of people know about. When he was a tennis player challenging at Wimbledon during the height of his success in tennis he was also at the training ground with Arsenal.

The next collection is heavily focused on that. It’s really cool, there’s roll neck sweaters like the old goalkeepers wore mixed in with sweat pants and tops.

Fred Perry have got such a good following and the great thing about this project is it’s a very natural one for me as you can see, you can’t just make that stuff up.

It’s a big part my heritage as well, I’m 65 for god sake and my brand is already 45 years old, Fred Perry is about 60 odd years old too. I knew a lot about this and it looks great.

There are certain companies, individuals, brands that shun the rule books and constraints of traditional thinking, Apple, Dyson, Virgin the list goes on and a new name to add to that list is Savile Row tailors Cad & the Dandy. Who have establish themselves on dismissing the premiss that quality comes at a heavy price. They have broke with tradition and operate with the conviction that high end bespoke tailoring should be accessible to all.

Their suits offer a modern British cut, are made using age old hand tailoring techniques and are delivered with a personal touch. They don’t over complicate things, operating from intimate premises in Savile Row and The City, with our trained Savile Row tailors, cutters and finishers, offering a friendly and welcoming approach and not a whiff of a Ooo Suits your sir carry on. All of their suits start with pattern creation, done by hand and retained for all future orders.

We caught up with one half of the dynamic duo in James Sleater to put the world to rights;

Best piece of advice you’ve ever been given?

Always put other people at ease.

If you could Dress anyone who would it be ?

Steve McQueen – he was fortunate in that he always looked effortlessly cool

What’s your Favourite movie ever ?

Zulu – It’s a combination of Great military clothing and empire and its bravado

What would be the name of your autobiography ?

Stitch it bitch.

If you could collaborate with one brand who would it be ?

LandRover – to design new defender coming out in 2yrs – replacement of iconic british vehicle.

Favourite hotel in the world ?

The Savoy because of the amazing bar and rooms with incredible London river views.

If you could give your teenage self advice, what would it be ?

Work harder.

Who would do you ideal diner guests ?

Churchill, Thatcher, Bush Jnr, Berlosconi – Just to sit back and watch the magic happen.

What piece of clothing best describes you ?

Bespoke 3 piece suit – the finest British craftsmanship to give the ultimate silhouette and first impression.

What piece of clothing would you relegate to Room 101 ?

Rucksack – kills a suit and looks shit.

What piece of style advise do you live by ?

Always polish your shoes. The small details matter.

If you had one day to live what would be your biggest regret ?

Not having another day to live.