Milan Menswear Shows -Shows Review -Spring /Summer 2015

The Milan Menswear Shows have come around again and although many are complaining about London stealing Milan’s Thunder with the hugely successful London Collections:Men, surely no one can moan when your schedule contains such household names as Gucci, PRADA, Giorgio Armani, Versace and Calvin Klein, to literally name but a few ????

Dolce & Gabbana

Dolce & Gabbana

Now, its not uncommon for designers to cite jaunts to far off climbs as inspiration for their collections, but this season in Milan I half expected Judith Charmers to jump out from the end of the Catwalk and start giving me a review of her stay while in Milano. We had Donnatella Versace falling in love with the people of Cuba, there was Stefano Pilati of  Ermenegildo Zegna finding divine inspiration from a temple in Greece and Dolce & Gabbana drawing on the Spanish occupation of Sicily and that was for starters.

Calvin Klein

Calvin Klein

Apart from all that travel malarkey, Italo Zucchelli for Calvin Klein worked with lots of naked flesh tones for Spring 2015 from pastey whites to sun kissed browns and inserted flashes of primary colours in for good measure.

Missoni

Missoni

However, over at the House of Missoni nothing could be further from the truth. Angela Missoni working to the tried and trust recipe of producing great clothes in this most wonderful house pattern and not managing to make it look like a dogs dinner.

Prada

Prada

Then over at PRADA we saw a collection, where at times you were left puzzled as to whether you were watching a Womenswear or menswear show. Miucchia Prada held her show set around a swimming pool and had both boys and girls parade around it, although very 1970’s inspired garb, at the same time incredibly commercial and equally wearable.

Diesel Black Gold

Diesel Black Gold

Diesel Black Gold continued with its reboot under the watchful eye of Nicola Formichetti, who like John Varvatos was on a real military tip mixing a contemporary rebel skater silhouette with Crimean military style jackets.

 

Fendi

Fendi

Penultimately, we have an ultra wearable collection for next Spring from Fendi, offering Summer must haves for ever well dressed international jet setters, catering for the rich young things who party in all the beautiful places and insist on being impeccably turned out.

Lastly, we get to those crazy Canadian combo Caten twins, Dean & Dan of DSquared, see the below image as the twins kinda take on military. In their fluro camo print, which we predict will be one of the most ripped off, sorry inspired prints that we see on the high. Street next Summer.

DSquared

DSquared

London Collections:Men – Show Review – Spring/Summer 2015 – Part II

So after yesterday’s instalment of LC:M for Spring Summer 2015 we conclude it with highlights from such illustrious brand as Burberry, Tom Ford and MOSCHINO !

As in past seasons, I like, for both of our sakes, to ask the opinion of leading figures within this industry, in fact the third largest in the country, if statistics are to be believed, and this season is no different. Let’s start with Mr David Heyes, leading freelance Fashion Writer, who had to say the following regarding Christopher Bailey’s Burberry show.

image“Christopher Bailey has got the Burberry formula down to a fine art. Put up a tent in the middle of one of London’s Royal parks, have your fingers crossed for sun, but don’t be too disappointed if it pours down – this is Britain’s heritage rainwear brand after all – and send of out loads of quite nice coats whatever the season. Spring/summer 2015 stuck to the script (no rain, just iPhone melting sunshine) but added a few surprises by way of off-beat colour – think poisonous greens and purples – and a mix of rich fabrics such as tonic suiting, plush velvet and superfine ‘ombre’ knits. Oh and some pretty cool rainbow hued trainers. The take away ideas for next season? Denim jackets buttoned to the top as a key layer under coats, duffle coats and cardigans yet again (surely timed to coincide with the new Paddington Bear movie?) and cute typographical prints that went someway to explain the show’s ‘Book covers and Bruce Chatwin’ title. What best to leave back in Burberry HQ? Those floppy felt hats of course.”

imageSo from a British Power House to a Italian one, who we welcome with open arms, Moschino, and we asked the opinion of one of the rising stars of the publishing industry, in Ms Mandy Pang, grooming Editor of none other then Shortlist Magazine.

“Jeremy Scott has brought back the best of Moschino and the 90’s with bold logos and branding. His take on “counterfeits” of other major designer brands such a Louis Vuitton, Gucci and Armani as inspiration for the prints and designs were fun, in your face and made the whole show very tongue in cheek. The incorporation of power cut suits, netted vest tops, oversized print, a generous splattering of pop colour and a nod to popular cultural references meant that the collection also stayed true to it’s Moschino identity. It’s loud branding at it’s best!”

imageKeeping on that international tip and welcoming another new face to LC:M is Tiger of Sweden, we caught up with Neil Thornton, leading menswear blogger with The Science of Appearance, informed us .

“If there’s one thing that Tiger of Sweden do, and do very well, it’s the skinny suit. They totally own it and they know. For SS15, Tiger of Sweden showcase their best and most signature styles with seasonal updates. While not groundbreaking, which I don’t think it ever intends to be, Tiger of Sweden’s offering is slick and undeniably cool. Their staple palette of blacks and greys, that show the trends that will crossover into mainstream fashion, were interspersed with rust hues and leaf prints as well as the now synonymous baseball jerseys while trouser lengths stayed above the ankle. The collection is effortless and above all, totally wearable.”

imageBack to a Brit, well a Scotsman, in the form of Patrick Grant for his Savile Row Brand E.Tautz, for this I sort the opinion of  UK’s leading men the world of Blogging, Simon Glazin of The Very Simon G who described the show as.

“I did actually love the school boy stripes from E Tautz and the big belt buckles on the trousers. It was clearly inspired by the 70s but without just throwing in flared trousers and psychedelic prints and we saw denim introduced for the first time which was fresh, minimal and wearable.”

imageNow last up but by no means least, is the Texan who every man in the know wants to be and every woman has a secret crush on Mr Tom Ford, for this man I had to turn to one of the biggest names in British men’s blogging, Marcus Jaye of The Chic Geek.  Jaye summed up Tom’s Spring 2015 offering as.

“The big news from Tom Ford was the introduction of jeans. Made in USA, all 3 styles are fitted and made the whole look much younger.”

London Collections:Men – Show Review – Spring/Summer 2015 – Part I

The wise scholar, and sometime fashion raconteur, Mr Kanye West OBE, once said, ” Work it harder, make it better,
do it faster, makes us stronger”. 
Which sums up the latest  instalment of London Collections:Men for Spring/Summer 2015, I know Summer 2014 has barely shown us it’s beautiful face and I’m talking about 2015, well that’s Fashion for ya. Anyway, we are back in London and it’s a packed schedule from YMC to KTZ to DKNY, this gives Anthony very little TLC and it’s down to work. We give you the best overview, of what is becoming THE Fashion eventing the calendar. With international name like MOSCHINO, Tiger of Sweden and of course DKNY throwing that very sartorial hat into the ring, London’s becoming a Cosmopolitan hotbed of talent.

imageHowever, first up we have, the irrepressible but more importantly lovely Lou Dalton. For this season Ms Dalton has taken a bit of a risky change in direction, but boy did it pay off ! We saw a more mature, confident and stylish collection. The tailoring, Sportwear fusion was still present but everything felt, tighter (not physical), sharper and generally more impressive. Keep up the good work Dalton A*.

imageNext up, the first of many zig zagging around the capital, to Kent and Curwen, the second season for the brand to be showing as part of LC:M. It has come a long way since launching as a modest collection of ties and cricket sweaters and has grown into one of the most sought after sporting brands in the country. The Brand further fused their take on English dress codes with that juxtaposition of graphic patterns, which mixed with their casting gave a feeling of David Bowie’s thin white Duke.

imageHardy Amies, (above) like its Savile Row neighbour, Gieves & Hawkes (below) showed a blinder of a Masterclass in Great British Tailoring, cool, contemporary but above all wearable. Exquisite ! Plus with the likes of Richard James, E.Tautz and Hackett. It doesn’t take a genius to see why the UK, and London has regained it’s crown for being THE destination for suiting.

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imageFrom some of the oldest names in British style to one of the more newer ones in, Christopher Raeburn, who gave his very unique take on Military. Working with a traditional regimental colour palette, Raeburn worked in Fighter jets and missile prints and showed he improves and builds season upon season.

imageNot only was Jonathan Saunders showing us his signature collection but in the exhibition space we saw his GREAT Second season collaboration with Lyle & Scott,  which was based on the Shane Meadow’s film of the Stone Roses Reunion, Made of Stone. Additionally to this they also showed their other sterling collaborative effort with Universal Works. Plus to Cap off the collaboration craziness area was the BEAUITFUL  range by Barbour X White Mountaineering, (above) one to definitely keep an eye out for.

Oliver Spencer, continues with his successful formula of producing wearable, timeless, pieces that form part an impeccable wardrobe. Last season we had Idris Elba providing the entertainment on the decks. This season Olie followed suit and as the eyes of the world focuses of Brazil he had the UK’s foremost Brazilian percussion group supply the entertainment, complete with Carnival dancing girls ! Somewhat a highlight of the day.image

Will it be coming home ? World Cup fever approaches !!!!

Can you believe the anthemic choon of Baddiel and Skinner, with a little help of Ian Broudie, Three Lions or as it commonly known after a couple of drinks, “It’s coming Home”, is Eighteen years old this Summer ! Yes ladies, four years has come around again, see your other halves turn into zombie, footsie viewing slabs, where you haven’t a cat in hell’s chance of getting a syllable of sense out of them for the entire tournament.

In just over a week’s time we see it all kick off in Brasil where teams from literally every continent will be fighting it out to bring Football home. In preparation for the opening ceremony, we’ve selected some of the best clothing ranges on offer to you .

Of course, when we think of Brasil and clothing, one brand automatically springs to mind, Havaianas and the Brazilian flip flop giant has produced their iconic footwear in the colours of many of the participant nations and in line with the Brazilian superstition about putting their right foot forward first.

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yoox.com, in collaboration with the football/style magazine Sepp, have worked with Ten designers from different countries in creating an exclusive collection of unisex sweatshirts and made in Italy by custom print inspired by their country of origin.

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More known for his prowess on the tennis court, back in the day Bjorn Borg is probably nowadays more a recognisable name in the underwear games then in sport, no I’m not going to make any jokes about balls, urgh. Like Havaianas Borg is playing on the spirt of national pride and produced a range of underwear bearing the national flags of some of the competing nations.

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Finally, we have Franklin & Marshall who have taken a bit of a retro spin on their World Cup inspired rangeimage

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Add a touch of St Tropez to your Life – Karl Lagerfeld’s capsule collection

imageNo I’m not talking about the leading brand in fake tanning, I’m chatting about the chic and stylish restort on the French Riviera, that’s right, no less then St Tropez has been the inspiration behind, Uber creative genius, Karl Lagerfeld’s  new high summer capsule collection, which turns city wardrobe staples into chic holiday must haves. Cobalt blue is the leading colour, in a fitted suit that makes the perfect outfit for a beach wedding. A variety of shirts, from light weight denim to blue contrast cotton, are seamlessly paired with white chinos and elegant raffia lace ups. A simple blue toned leather weekend bag is all you need to fit your essentials, including trainers, mirrored sunglasses and a light knight block coloured jumper to stay warm when the evening temperature drops, even though the atmosphere around you still sizzles.

The collection will be stocked in his recently opened Flagship store on London’s, Regent Street, joining the likes of Burberry, Apple and Barbour to share this increasingly desired postcode.

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