CLOTHES MAKE THE MAN
The extraordinary mens blog for the modern man
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Milan Menswear Show Review SS14

As the sun sets on another LC:M for this season, its time to move out and move on, setting up camp in another style Capital this time it’s the turn of Italy’s Financial Capital, Milano. For Spring Summer 2014 the Italian houses seem to be in mixed moods, maybe reflective of the country wide mood, as the recession rumbles on and uncertainty is the mood du jour. So first we have some young blood who seem to be making waves in the right direction Les Homme. Continuing where London, left off and reflective of a number of their designers, Tom Notte and Bart Vandebosch of Les Homme blurred the lines of casual and formal and teamed leather t-shirts with suiting, formalised the shorts and bomber jacket all the time keeping the primary colour palette dark and sombre but highly wearable.

Calvin Klein Collection

Calvin Klein Collection

For Calvin Klein Collection, Italo Zucchelli, was all about 40 shades of blue, rather then the grey, which several of his fellow designers seemed to relish. Every hue of blue must surely have been used at some point during the show, offering, as always, his minimal, futuristic take on menswear.  Whether it be simply Navy, or Sky blue, Yves Klein blue, no relative, to Midnight blue they were all present as Zucchelli celebrates a decade at the helm of the good ship SS Calvin Klein.

Vivienne Westwood

Vivienne Westwood

Now as we mentioned in the London Show Reviews, I’ve sort the views of a number of Fashion industry soothsayers, for their opinion on their key shows and first of today’s viewpoints comes from British GQ’s Associate Editor, Mr Robert Johnston,  who has forgotten more about Fashion and style then many people will EVER know.

“I loved Vivienne Westwood. Fresh, fun and wearable while still being classic Westwood. The Indian prints took you to a chic Goan beach house mixed with the drama of a white evening cape for a modern mix of east meets west.”

Then onto an Italian Family Dynasty, who are hopefully putting the sad events of this year behind them to concentrate on more happier times. Missoni, who like many designers this season are opting for a more conservative, maybe even recession proof collection. Obviously it goes without saying the show wasn’t without the unmistakable family pattern evident on many of their key pieces, but this was made all the more wearable by mixing it with a much sober palette of navy, beige and sage.

Prada

Prada

And as almost to act as a colour interlude from all the darker tones of Milanese Designers, Prada should present to us their collection for SS14, but I will leave this to the more then capable Dan Rookwood, Style Director of Mens Health UK to expand upon.

“Every season the one show everyone expects the most from is Prada – and every season the fashion powerhouse more than meets those expectations. Prada’s HQ had once again been reinvented. This time we were transported back in time to a steamy 1950s tropicana scene. I got a sense of pre-Revolution Havana when the mob were running the casinos. All the models had been spritzed to look like they were glistening with sweat, mirroring some of those squished into the front row. The tiered seating was aqua blue like a swimming pool and the ceiling was sky blue like the, erm, sky. The models walked around the pool edge past a painted set of sunsets and palms. The colour palette was quite moody and muddy for a summer collection – burgundy, bottle green, khaki and navy – but was enlivened by bold, colourful Hawaiian print buttoned-up shirts and standout leather briefcases and overnight bags, festooned with tropical patterns. Trend-wise, we’re looking at a wider leg trouser worn with a casually tied canvas belt; generously-lapelled jackets with the sleeves turned up; and 50s-style shirts. The universal verdict: yet another Prada triumph.”

Gucci

Gucci

So from one great Stylish man to another, this time Fashion Director of American Esquire, the ever dapper and unflappable Nick Sullivan, give us his take on the iconic house of Gucci designed by Frida Giannini.

“Gucci was a breath of fresh air for me this time round. The glitzy side was played down in favour of a comfortable mix of romantic print and technical sportswear. Highlights were floral print cotton suits and a couple of others with simple dot prints reminiscent of pocket squares… The navy ones got my name on it. On the sports side I loved the bright yellow sailing top with its technical bonded seams and sone of the texhnical looking pants. To me the combination of romance and sport was unlikely but the sheer unadulterated quality of everything made it work just great.” 

Couldn’t have put it better myself fellas!

Fendi

Fendi

Italy are known for their great family Dynasties from the Borgias, to the Guccis, The Medicis to the Fendis and the latter house offered as a HUGELY wearable collection for SS14 to the point that I challenge you not to find a least one outfit that you wouldn’t like to purchase. The colour palette, the cut, everything about this collection just screamed WEAR ME ! From casual chic to fresh formal, it owned the Fendi man a complete wardrobe from dusk til dawn.

 

 

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A Super Out of this World Collaboration – French Connection and Warner Brothers

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For Summer 2013, there are a number of blockbusters that have people chomping at the bit with excitement and has them waiting in anticipation to sit in a darkened room for 2 and a bit hours. There’s Star Trek 2, The Great Gatsby, Monsters University, The Wolverine, but the one that has the most people all giddy is Superman, Man of Steel ! To mark this movie-llous Summer of film, French Connection who have built up a reputation of promoting film heritage through its product, continues its longstanding collaboration with retro comic book giant DC.

The French Connection Design team were invited to explore the archives of DC Comics, following original design guidelines and producing an exclusive range of T-shirts featuring original artwork  of Kal-El (Superman’s Krypton name) as well as imagery from the new release, giving the range a vintage aesthetic through the use of screen printing.

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Oliver Sweeney pops up in John Lewis – Oliver Sweeney Shoe Tattoo pop up in John Lewis Flagship Store

Screen Shot 2013-06-03 at 19.19.35Oliver Sweeney is somewhat of a legend when it comes to Mens footwear, from the age of 16 when he ran away from home and lived for a time on the Circle Line in the London Underground, no that isn’t a mistake on my part, you read it right. This is where he saw an advert in a Shoemakers window looking for an apprentice, the rest they say is history.

Since its foundation in 1989, his signature company, has always made its own path through the industry pitfalls. With a good eye for sharp but always comfortable footwear. Built around their unique Anatomical Last, which mimics, as accurately as possible, the profile of the human foot. A celebrated design created after years of research, it’s sculpted to give support to the arch, the instep points to the big toe, like the real foot. A gentle twist through its length simulates the natural shape of the foot, and helps reduce rolling to the outside of the foot.

From now until June 24th, Sweeney has opened a pop up shop housed within one of the UK’s most well known and trusted retailers John Lewis. During this time, in it’s flagship Oxford Street store, the shop in shop will stock a wide selection of their Footwear, Outerwear and Accessories. Throughout its duration Sweeney will be bringing their unique shoe tattoo service, what tattoo a shoe ? Poppycock ! No, no Oliver Sweeney will be offering you the chance to create a pair of shoes with your own exclusive, indelible mark. Perfect for commemorating your wedding day this summer or for letting your dad know that he’s one of a kind this Father’s Day. Tattoos can be of any design, size and location, the only recommendation being to choose a tan or light coloured shoe or accessory to ensure the best outcome, but hopefully, that goes without say, yeah ? And the tattoo service will be free of charge at John Lewis with every pair of Oliver Sweeney shoes or tan accessory purchased.

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Spec-tacular glasses – Archibald Optics

Screen Shot 2013-05-23 at 20.25.29If like me and countless other guys out there you wear glasses you know what a minefield it is when it comes to picking a new pair. You know the score, your happy with your spectacles, it took you long enough to select the last pair so why do you need to put yourself through the agony of going to your optician, having to try on loads of pairs, feeling ridicules and thinking, can I not just have these again ? Ohhhh I got these 5 years ago, OK. Help is at hand, in the form of Archibald Optics, founded on the ideal of producing great eyewear that is both functional and aesthetically pleasing. Archibald Optics takes inspiration from the styles of yesteryear to create eyewear that is bold, brave and unique, while at the same time not running the risk of having you look like you bought a job lot of Elton John’s cast offs at his last car boot sale, him and David need the cash with that ever growing family.

Screen Shot 2013-05-23 at 20.24.03Archibald’s USP is they aspires to bring quality eyewear directly to the customer, bypassing opticians and retail chains. So through our unique business model,  they are able to charge the customer a more responsible price for eyewear designed in London and handmade by trained artisans at their manufacturing facilities in Fukui, Japan. However, the overriding bonus to this is, it can all be done from the comfort of your own home. So you can browse through their online collection and choose your 3 favourite frames. Not sure which style works best for you? Then why not use the Virtual Try- On System to see which styles suit you face shape best, see everything, all thought of.

Once you have narrowed your choice down to 3 specific frames, you create your own account, Archibald will then send you your 3 preferred styles to your abode. What you need to do then is over the next 5 days decide which frame floats your boat. After all that all you have to do is follow the easy-to-use directions so that can collect all your bespoke requirements, including prescription details. Eight to ten working days after your order has been confirmed, your personalised pair of Archibald spectacles will arrive directly at your doorstep.

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A lil Teaser for LC:M SS14

I can’t believe Lonodn Collections:Men, the third one, is nearly upon us June 15th it starts and I was sent this trailer for the proceedings the other day so I thought I would do the decent thing and share it with my loyal readers and in the process do a little flag waving for how great British Style actually is. Here you go folk;