D.S & Durga believe in perfume’s ability to conjure unseen worlds. The power of scent is equal to that of sight and sound. Artistry is their first priority.

D.S. is really the perfumer. He taught himself how to make perfume by immersing himself in all things fragrant. He is passionate about translating musical and literary spaces into scent. His distinct process involves creating accords of lifelike objects, places, characters and weaving them into rich narratives. The sniffer reading the description should be clearly able to sense the ideas within the perfume.

Kavi (aka Durga) designs everything. She approaches her work like an architect (the profession she left for ‘fumes’). Thinking in angles, light, shadow, and texture, Kavi seeks to create clarity in form and function for the houses of the perfumes. With great intention she honors the subtle messages of product design.

D.S. & Durga were pioneers in the DIY Brooklyn movement around the turn of the century. They began by turning things they loved into scents. At first handmade scented stories of cowboys, open terrain, Russian novel characters, folksongs etc, and packed them into hand-stamped boxes in their Bushwick apartment. They started from scratch, taught themselves as they went along, and did it their way.

All of their boxes contain descriptions, notes, stories, and anecdotes about the perfume inside. Though a perfume can be enjoyed without knowing its name, they believe it enriches the experience to talk about and understand what they are trying to say, why they made something, and what is in it.

This season sees the launch of the best-loved scents re-imagined. Let your self be enveloped by three scents that are now available as a luxurious body wash and lotion that will leave your skin hydrated, nourished and lightly scented by the world of D.S & Durga.

Unless you’ve been fully consumed by BREXIT this Summer, it’s been hard to miss and why would you want to ? The Jean Paul Gaultier Fashion Freak Show, a retrospective of the work of this Fashion Revolutionary. This became the hottest ticket in town where every celeb under the sun came to pay homage to the Gallic genius.

It’s disputable the effect this Frenchman has had on modern culture whether through his Fashions, fragrances or even through his participation on Eurotrash with Antoine de Caunes.

Now another way to access and participate in the work of this legendary style icon is the Jean Paul Gaultier watch collection, like his couture fashion is original, creative and glamourous. Bearing the name of the eponymous French “enfant terrible” fashion designer, the watches have all the hallmarks of the brand – from the familiar sailor stripes to punk chic studs and chains synonymous with the designer’s catwalk collections.

Each new collection in the watch portfolio features a key reference from the Gaultier repertoire: “Punk chic”, with faceted bracelets reminiscent of the famous corset and a rock n’roll heart. “Index”, a new line with Arabic figures and a toothed rim around the bezel. “Bord Cote”, a tubular design to create a ribbed effect on the mirror dial. “Navy Tattoo”, is a tribute to the classic Gaultier logo with an original rose tattoo design embossed on the dial with the designer’s name. “Decroche” pieces are inspired by the vintage telephone clearly seen on the dial and a detachable wide leather cuff for different styles. Finally “Cockpit”, an aviator style watch, with a white padded bracelet and a blue aluminium bezel.

All the watches are 316L stainless steel with ion plating finishing in different colours, such as gold, rose gold, gun metal etc. All watches are water resistant to 3, 5 or 10 ATM making them perfect for everyday use.

What is the skin microbiome? I hear you ask well, simply, just like our gut relies on certain types of bacteria to keep it healthy, the same goes for our skin. Our skin hosts roughly 100 trillion micro-organisms made up of more than 1000 species of bacteria, viruses, mites and fungi. The place where all this bacteria and other microorganisms live is called our skin biome. It’s a rich ecosystem that plays a key role in how our skin looks and feels and is largely affected by our surroundings, what we eat and the products we use. Scientists can now tell just by looking at a skin swab which people share the same home, office or even city and cohabiting couples can even be identified by their microbiome profile in nine out of 10 cases. Research is also indicating that some of these microbes promote skin health.

Why should we use probiotics in skincare then? Microbes were present long before we started using products and our skin functioned in a healthy native state. The rise of preservatives in skin and body care along with a number of other factors have eradicated cultures of good bacteria present on our skin. Research is still in its infancy so we’re only just starting to understand the impact this has had on us. Correlative data shows that as our modern hygiene products have advanced, so has the rise of skin concerns such as acne, eczema and dermatitis.

Using probiotics in skincare not only increases cultures of good bacteria on the skin but also optimises their healing benefits; providing a protective barrier by outnumbering bad bacteria, maintaining skin pH and taking down inflammation among many others. It is believed the skin microbiome is the basis of healthy-looking skin.

With a living ecosystem that is out of balance, it’s difficult for it to do the job it needs to. Because of this, the biggest benefit of using probiotic and biome-friendly products is that it helps your skin look and feel good on its own

Probiotic, Prebiotic and Postbiotics; what’s the difference? Probiotics are defined as live bacteria that deliver a benefit to their host. For Mother Dirt their probiotic is the live, patented strain of Ammonia Oxidising Bacteria, Nitrosomonas Eutropha.

Prebiotics are food for good bacteria that ensures their survival and growth. Their bacteria feeds off your sweat (specifically ammonia) so sweat is essentially the prebiotic here which we product naturally so it’s is constantly feeding and growing. The removal of ammonia from the skin helps the skin maintain a normal skin pH.

Postbiotics are by-products of the bacteria’s natural function and can be powerful molecules that support your skins healthy barrier. For Mother Dirt the postbiotic is created when the AOB bacteria converts ammonia into Nitrite and Nitrite Oxide which help calm and soothe the skin.

It’s a terrifying notion but new clothes bought in the UK produce more carbon emissions per minute than driving a car around the world six times.

It is estimated that more than two tonnes of clothing are bought each minute in the UK. That produces nearly 50 tonnes of carbon emissions – the same as driving 162,000 miles in a car.

Emissions from clothes bought in the UK every second are equivalent to driving a car from London to the Costa del Sol and back. And per hour this equates to driving around the world 360 times.

Buying one new white cotton shirt produces the same amount emissions as driving a car for 35 miles. The is based on a 100 per cent cotton shirt with a net weight of 220 grams, which amounts to 10.75kg of CO2 and other greenhouse gases.

An item of clothing could travel 21748 miles – from a cotton field in the U.S, to production units in Bangladesh, to the shipment of the product to Germany and finally to the customer.

Despite these huge figures, a study of 1,000 British adults found more than half – 53 per cent – are not aware fast fashion is damaging to the environment.

The study was commissioned by Oxfam for its Second Hand September campaign, where consumers pledge not to buy anything new for the whole month.

In one month alone the emissions from new clothes bought are greater than those from flying a plane around the world 900 times. This is the amount of emissions the nation could save if we all took part in Second Hand September.

Not only is the textile industry one of world’s major polluters, many of its products are thrown away. Each week, 11 million garments end up in landfill in the UK. To keep prices low, throwaway fashion is made by garment workers often from poor communities, and paid below the living wage.

The statistics produced by Oxfam are based on lifetime emissions for new clothing bought in the UK, including sourcing raw materials, manufacturing, production, transport, washing and disposal. Oxfam’s says the poorest people in the world who did the least to cause climate change are suffering most.

The richest 10 per cent of world are responsible for around 50 per cent of global emissions, while the poorest half are responsible for 10 per cent.

The statistics also found the carbon footprint from new clothes we buy every year as a nation is more than if all 66 million of us flew to Malta for a holiday.

In 2016 it was estimated 1,130,000 tonnes of clothing were purchased in the UK – an increase of 200,000 tonnes from 2012. This results in 94,166 tonnes of clothing being bought per month.

The study of Brits also found the average adult spends £27 a month in fast fashion outlets and two items are currently owned which remain unworn. One sixth own as many as five unworn items. But worryingly, three in 10 said that although they are shocked at how much damage fast fashion has on the environment, they probably won’t change their habits.

And almost one in 10 admitted they are ‘not bothered’ about the impact their shopping has on the environment. However, over one third said they are shocked and will change the way they purchase clothes.

 Words by Cameron McLauchlan

Welcome to something for the weekend! In this week’s iteration we’ll be matching a duo of pieces from a couple of our favourite British designers. And a pair of subtle Soulland shorts. Lets get into it.

1. JW Anderson patch logo knit – £389.00 reduced to £195.00

This beautifully knitted crewneck is perfect for this time of year, bridging the gap from warm to cool. Irish designer Jonathan Anderson founded his signature brand in 2008. Quickly establishing his identity in the realm of both womenswear, menswear and accessories. The earliest memory for me being the iconic JW anchor handbag. JW still runs successful

ready-to-wear lines for both men and women. As well as his popular bi-annual link-up with UNIQLO. And more recently & frequently — Converse.  

JW is easily one of the most decorated British designers of recent years. Since graduating from The London College of Fashion in 2005 he was received several British Fashion Awards simultaneously from 2012 to 2015. Including both Emerging Talent Award Menswearin 2012 and a double award in 2015 for menswear and womenswear. 5 awards in 4 years! Oh, and also womenswear designer of the year  in 2017. More Silverware than Man U, well a couple of years ago.

To shop the knit at a steal! Hit the image —

2.  Soulland mini-logo swim short – £69.00

Danish brand Soulland was birthed in 2002. Its parents are CEO Jacob Berliner and Creative director Silas Adler. The brand principles are inspired by “scandinavian artisanship” as quoted from their website. The spirit of Soullands artisanship is based upon the Adler Fedora — A distinctive baseball style cap made by hand. In Denmark.

The brand operates through its various stockists around the world including — Colette (Paris), Harvey Nichols (London) and Bloomingdales (New-York). In addition the flagship store in Copenhagen opened its doors in 2013. The brand prices are relatively cheap compared to some of streetwears bigger names and offers quality clobber with some contemporary design above your average hoodie, sweats and t-shirts set-up.

The link to the shorts are below :

To browse their latest collection including a collaboration with Playboy: 

https://soulland.com/collections/soulland-meets-playboy 

3.  Vivienne Westwood x Asics GEL LYTE – £180.00

The second item of our British designer duo in this post comes from fashion/punk icon Vivienne Westwood. These particular Asics are part of a duo piece collab and my personal favourite out of the two. The other pair features a full all-around painted print on the upper. Both inlays and overlays are printed with an angelic painting. A tad too loud for me. This isn’t the first time VW has teamed up with Asics this year. May 19′ — saw a very red couple of pairs released but equally as striking.

Vivienne Westwood originally Vivienne Isabel Swire was born in Glossop, Derbyshire on the 8th of April 1941. Skipping on a few years from this date, Westwood met art student Malcom Mclaren in London and began creating many forms of clothing. All anchoring heavily to reference points of past youth cultures. In the 60’s the pair sold mainly rock & roll fashion at their store on kings road.  Later on in the early 70’s  VW & Mclarens work evolved into pieces which catered to those with a very particular desire for fetishism such as bondage trousers, leather spiked heels, and removable straps or ‘bum flaps’ on the more sensitive areas of ones self.

Serving as a fourth course to the fetishwear, the store also sold many pieces with equally eye attracting graphics ranging form naked body part prints to hand printed Swasticka sweaters.

 “I’ve constantly tried to provoke people into thinking afresh and for themselves, to escape their inhibitions and programming.” Vivienne Westwood

As of today, whilst the brand of Vivienne Westwood has somewhat calmed down on the shock and awe front it has replicated such desires commercially for both men and women — selling vast quantities of read to wear, jewellery and fragrances.

To shop the trainers above hit the link in the image:

Thankyou for reading another week of something for the weekend! 

Hit us up @clothesmaketheman to let us know which brand we should cover next!