The Jacket that never goes out of Fashion – The Denim Jacket

M apparel 7The origins of the Denim Jacket are not only very humble but very simple, originally created for the workplace; it formed part of the overall denim uniform that was rugged and durable for the manual worker of the 18th Century. In the late 1800s, it began to become more of a part of general clothing and it became a serious part of fashion attire thanks to companies like Levi Strauss. The company began seeing success with denim jackets in the early 1900’s and never looked back.

However, although not really changing a great deal over time regarding its overall design, the denim jacket is a cultural icon and has played a key role in the overall look of many sub cultures since its conception. Whether it be the western cowboy look which is never-endingly begin interpreted and reinterpreted by brands as a source of inspiration. The British Skinhead following of the 1970’s or the Hell’s Angels Rock inspired movement. The Americana image of the 1950’s Double denim rebel made famous by James Dean in “Rebel Without a Cause” or staying with the American influence of their Redneck brethren.

Screen Shot 2013-08-21 at 11.15.16Virtually every brand on the planet today gives their take on this piece of clothing from TOPSHOP and GAP, to the daddy of Denim Levi’s and Wrangler, right the way through to Ralph Lauren and of course Calvin Klein. Many of these brands have produced unforgettable and zeitgeist advertising campaigns including Nick Kamen taking off his 501’s in the laundrette, Leigh Bowery asking, “Where’s Pepe ?” Lee’s “Jeans that built America”. But my personal favourite has to be a beautiful and rather young Brooke Shields, pondering,”You want to know what comes between me and my Calvins? Nothing.” This not only sent people running out to buy denim in their droves but it made Jeans SEXY !

Since this moment Calvin Klein Jeans have been knocking it out of the ball park when it comes to marketing denim, not only using Brooke Shields, but Marky Mark Wahlberg accompanied by an early appearance by Ms Kate Moss. Jamie Dornan, pre his Serial Killer tendencies in “The Fall” or even being a little too controversial and having their Ad campaign banned altogether, which only added fuel to the fire of their desirability.

Calvin Klein Jeans continue to rework the sense of structure to their traditional denim jacket and shirts. The garment’s authentic details and aesthetic features with a mixture of shapes and colours.

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Obsessed with Obsession – Obsessed by Calvin Klein

Obsessed Calvin Klein PerfumeObsession by Calvin Klein was and still is iconic in every way, shape and form. It was a fragrance that completely summed up a period of time. In 1993, a certain Kate Moss, who was THE Supermodel at that time, became the fragrance’s face. She was 18 years old when her then boyfriend, MARIO SORRENTI, aged 20, shot her for the campaign.

Kate Moss Calvin Klein

Sorrenti already displayed prodigious talent as a photographer, while Moss was fast becoming not just a model, but a star. CALVIN KLEIN himself, having been shown some of Sorrenti’s informal holiday photography of Moss by the uber-art director Fabien Baron, sent the couple away alone, to the Virgin Islands.
They were asked to replicate the intimacy and informality of the earlier photography for OBSESSION; there was no photographic team, no hair and make-up crew and no art directors present.
The ground-breaking and provocative imagery that ensued reflected the couple’s real love story; besides portraying a mutual flourishing of first love, the images also reveal an obsession with both a subject and a medium by the photographer.

Kate Moss Calvin KleinAs the legendary campaign approaches its 25th anniversary, the House of Calvin Klein finds itself with a new, Chief Creative Officer, in the shape of Belgian design phenomena, RAF SIMONS.

Who believes now is the right time for the re-invention of an iconic fragrance. OBSESSED plays on the evocation of memory through scent. Mixing memory and desire, masculine and feminine, the past and the present, these compelling fragrances echo the original OBSESSION, yet blur and reformulate scents for both men and women today.

As Simons states, “I suppose you could say we were obsessed by OBSESSION. If one thing summed up CALVIN KLEIN for us visually, it was Mario Sorrenti’s OBSESSION campaign with Kate Moss. It lived in our heads for so many years and became a touchstone of sensuality when we arrived at CALVIN KLEIN. We thought about a scent that could reflect such an idea of memory and desire for today. Of male and female, of the memory of somebody else on your skin.”

Kate Moss Calvin KleinAs part of the campaign to promote this fragrance OBSESSED utilises never before seen imagery from that time and personal biography to further explore and evoke the idea of memory, past love and present iconography.  As the first fragrance formulated and promoted under RAF SIMONS as Chief Creative Officer of CALVIN KLEIN, OBSESSED can be seen as a celebration of CALVIN KLEIN fragrances past, present and future. OBSESSED is about how memory, the sensual and the visual intertwine today.

OBSESSED FOR MEN is an Oriental Woody Amber fragrance with top notes of Oro Blanco Grapefruit Sichuan Pepper Black Cardamom. Leading into Cedar Leaves Labdanum Firnat Blonde Leather and finally dry Patchouli Cœur Black Vanilla Infusion Ambrox Super. A compelling heart of Black Vanilla is sophisticatedly structured with dark, dimensional woods, providing the tension between a feminine melodiousness and masculine strength. Ambrox elegantly cuts through all, lending a sleek and contemporaneous edge.

Obsessed Calvin Klein Perfume

Ask the Experts – Winter Coats

You know we love a good collaboration at Clothes-Make-the-Man, but this time it’s an internal one we have Six of the Best X Ask the Experts to come together to create the Mutha of all Goddamn Posts.

If the good folks over at the Met Office are to be believed, plus the fact that ole Mentalist himself Keith Barry are predicting the coldest Winter on record, we better wrap up and what better way then getting Six of the Best Brains in the history of Menswear Buying to predict their best Winter coats of the season. I think you’ll be rather surprised by the outcome and choices, but some clear and defiant examples are given which I hope, help you dear reader. We set them the question of, If you were to buy ONE coat this season, what would it be ?” And the answers were as follows??????

AW14OURL068003800-BLACK“The Parka was one of the shapes of the season and this waxed version from Our Legacy also has pop-out bomber jacket so you are getting g 2 trends for the price of one – as well as very warm winter coat.”

Screen Shot 2014-11-10 at 17.42.06Ben Andrew – Menswear Buyer, Liberty

 

Screen Shot 2014-11-10 at 17.10.59“My favourite coat for this winter is our single breasted Corsivo Corsini overcoat with faux fur collar. This coat is a real investment piece; the luxurious wool and cashmere fabric and the detachable collar means you can wear it with a formal suit or with more relaxed daywear.”

Screen Shot 2014-11-10 at 17.17.30Ross Wilson – Head of Buying, House of Fraser

 

Screen Shot 2014-11-10 at 17.02.19“This jacket from Canada Goose is a firm favourite in the Mr Porter office. Goose down filled and crafted from a durable, water-resistant shell with ribbed-knit trims to keep out the cold, it’s the perfect marriage of function and laidback luxury. A big win for Winter ’15.” 

Sam Kershaw - HeadshotSam Kershaw – Senior Buyer, MRPORTER.com

 

Screen Shot 2014-11-10 at 16.51.06‘A longer-length coat should be at the top of every man’s list this season – and Haider Ackermann’s slim-shouldered, embroidered style one of the best. Wear it unbuttoned, and offset the richness of the fabric with relaxed layers – it would look incredible over sweatpants and a cashmere roll-neck.’

imageStacey Smith – Menswear Buyer, MATCHESFASHION.COM

Screen Shot 2014-11-10 at 16.23.37“It’s is the Odel jacket from Calvin Klein in a technical nylon twill. I really like the clean lines styling but it is still really practical with 4 front pockets and a great hood to keep out winter chills. And it is Exclusively available at HN”.

Adrian Gibson, Buyer – Men’s Casual & Formal Collections, Harvey Nichols

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“ I’ve been obsessed with Arctic Parkas ever since Liam Gallagher donned one for the entire 1996 Brit Awards leading to his infamous acceptance speech having beaten Blur to “Best British Band”. They don’t come around very often and you have to have a certain degree of confidence to wear with conviction. Our Legacy to me is one of the best brands in the world and their take is as good as its going to get. Resin coated cotton, quilted lining and storm flap with full zip through. It’s a contemporary take on a military classic.

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Thom Scherdel – Buyer, The Idle Man

 

24 carot – Platinum by Calvin Klein

Screen Shot 2014-10-13 at 17.37.30Calvin Klein is a brand known for many things and other designer fashion houses would literally kill for an ounce of what they have, one could say if they could bottle it, but they already have several times over. Whether it be denim, underwear, fragrances etc Calvin Klein is legendary and shows no sign of slowing down or lessening its popularity.

For Winter this year they have teamed up with the retailer of ultimate luxury and bastion of everything aspirational, Harvey Nichols to stock this exclusive collection. It offers a new take on the classic and formal inspired by the pursuit of perfection. Simplicity and precision.

Platinum prides itself on natural luxury embodied in clean shapes with updated proportions, designed in rich fibers and yarns. Heroic and confident with architectural and studiously crafted looks. Hidden interior details offer a sense of concealed sophistication.


Screen Shot 2014-10-13 at 17.37.01The collection offers a look that is elevated and tailored. Three and two-button jackets with soft constructions are paired with boat neck sweaters and tapered ankle cropped pants. For outerwear, a covetable camel wool/cashmere slim top coat, or a roomy, fleck-speckled pressed tweed balmacaan. A dark damson wool jacket over a black turtleneck sweater and black pants; or a Bordeaux iridescent weave nylon parka with neoprene trimmed hood, worn with a boat neck merino sweater and cropped black pants — both add graphic color to the season’s muted palette. Head-to-toe black styling, as in a quilted leather bomber jacket, turtleneck and flannel pant, presents a modern, city aesthetic. Alternatively, a pared down pale grey wool cashmere shaker sweater and flannel cropped pants introduces an element of ease.

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Milan Menswear Shows -Shows Review -Spring /Summer 2015

The Milan Menswear Shows have come around again and although many are complaining about London stealing Milan’s Thunder with the hugely successful London Collections:Men, surely no one can moan when your schedule contains such household names as Gucci, PRADA, Giorgio Armani, Versace and Calvin Klein, to literally name but a few ????

Dolce & Gabbana

Dolce & Gabbana

Now, its not uncommon for designers to cite jaunts to far off climbs as inspiration for their collections, but this season in Milan I half expected Judith Charmers to jump out from the end of the Catwalk and start giving me a review of her stay while in Milano. We had Donnatella Versace falling in love with the people of Cuba, there was Stefano Pilati of  Ermenegildo Zegna finding divine inspiration from a temple in Greece and Dolce & Gabbana drawing on the Spanish occupation of Sicily and that was for starters.

Calvin Klein

Calvin Klein

Apart from all that travel malarkey, Italo Zucchelli for Calvin Klein worked with lots of naked flesh tones for Spring 2015 from pastey whites to sun kissed browns and inserted flashes of primary colours in for good measure.

Missoni

Missoni

However, over at the House of Missoni nothing could be further from the truth. Angela Missoni working to the tried and trust recipe of producing great clothes in this most wonderful house pattern and not managing to make it look like a dogs dinner.

Prada

Prada

Then over at PRADA we saw a collection, where at times you were left puzzled as to whether you were watching a Womenswear or menswear show. Miucchia Prada held her show set around a swimming pool and had both boys and girls parade around it, although very 1970’s inspired garb, at the same time incredibly commercial and equally wearable.

Diesel Black Gold

Diesel Black Gold

Diesel Black Gold continued with its reboot under the watchful eye of Nicola Formichetti, who like John Varvatos was on a real military tip mixing a contemporary rebel skater silhouette with Crimean military style jackets.

 

Fendi

Fendi

Penultimately, we have an ultra wearable collection for next Spring from Fendi, offering Summer must haves for ever well dressed international jet setters, catering for the rich young things who party in all the beautiful places and insist on being impeccably turned out.

Lastly, we get to those crazy Canadian combo Caten twins, Dean & Dan of DSquared, see the below image as the twins kinda take on military. In their fluro camo print, which we predict will be one of the most ripped off, sorry inspired prints that we see on the high. Street next Summer.

DSquared

DSquared