CLOTHES MAKE THE MAN

As stores start to get in their new Spring 2013 ranges and as the weathermen start to inform us of blizzards and freezing conditions. I thought I’d try and lighten the mood and give us something to look forward to. In the last couple of months of 2012, I was lucky enough to have a preview of countless apparel’s brands Spring /Summer collections for this forthcoming season from high end designer to high street brands. So I thought I’d give you a sneak preview, but keep it to yourself 😉 ENJOY.

Channeling a little warmer weather Tommy Hilfiger had some of the best swimwear around this season.

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The Brilliant Sunglasses range Sunday Somewhere, well worth keeping your eyes peeled for, gettit !

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Looking sharp and expect the unexpected from Peter Werth, over the next couple of seasons.

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Look like a living work of art with casual wear brand FLY 53

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We’ll definitely be seeing more of Tourne de Transmission, well certainly on here anyway.

Have to be honest, I L O V E love Hancock and they have a great back story. I know let’s do a post on them !

I can honestly say Camouflage HAS to be one of the biggest menswear trends for Spring 13 and this shirt from Addict is a great way of saying it. I have an idea this isn’t the last we’ll see of camo pieces.

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I had to include this one, even though its more of a girls story, but if your stuck for a gift idea for the lady in your life these Eley Kishimoto X Clarks shoes will absolutely stunned.

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This was one of my favourite jackets from the Press days and great for that unpredictable summer weather, well done Banana Republic.

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Maybe its because of my love for Hitchcock but these sock from Thomas Pink are a much have for Spring.

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Sir Paul Smith never fails when it comes to adding a spot of colour to our life and always manages to keep it looking masculine.

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The day I saw this top with matching shorts from 55DSL, the weather was particularly fowl and left me longing warm barmy climbs.

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Dr Martens are continuing to prove that they are going from strength to strength in the shoe department.

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Smarten your act up over the summer with the simple deconstructed blazer by Boden.

Clarks have come up with this great footwear range based on its founder Nathan Clark, which has bags of potential to be expanded, in my humble opinion

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These great boat shoes with a twist were a real pleasure surprise from Romain Kremer X Camper shoes

Told you we’d see more camo and this time it’s a collaboration by Passarella Death Squad X Boxfresh

OK granted not the most exciting of pieces but I guarantee Lacoste will have more planned to celebrate their 80th Anniversary !

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One of the most exciting collaborations for Spring 2013 has to be Austin Reed X Spencer Hart, a lot of people have high expectations from this project and it don’t disappoint. More on this VERY soon.

A brand we haven’t heard to much from in this country for a while is J.Lindeberg. Well its well worth taking another look at them. The collection for Spring is amazing, this rucksack was a personal have but the burgundy tux and the tweed suits were worth smashing the piggy bank opening for !

The review of the Milan Menswear shows for this coming Autumn has a truly international feel to it, no not just because it’s Milanese, but we kick off with the review with the first lady of German, no not Angela Merkel,tut, the other iron lady Jil Sander and we conclude with the colourful Canadian duo the Brothers Caten and along the way we’ll throw in a Brit and a Yank for good measure.

Jil Sander AW13

You know when you attend a Jil Sander show it isn’t going to be all Peacock feathers, day glo and a gangster rap sound track and do you know what ? It wasn’t this season either, but what we were treated to was a vintage collection of true, pure Sander genius. There were covert military references, no surprises there, the colour palette was masculine and continued with the slight military undertone. But what was the show’s greatest success was the fact that it offered a sensible, wearable and contemporary collection without being boring.

Dolce & Gabbana AW13

Moving on to designers on more home turf for Dolce & Gabbana, who surely must be expecting a call from the Vatican’s legal team, for a share of their profits ? First they took the Rosary beads and turned them into a must have male Fashion accessory now they seem to have turned their attention to the miraculous medal, ask your Catholic friends. Their theme was “devotion” and boy did they mean it. They had turned their Teatro into a shrine, so much so, I nearly genuflected when I entered. This was full on Roman Catholic iconology, either a saints image was used to decorate a garment or the models looked as those they had stepped out of the seminary. Move over Geek chic this is parish priest chic !

Burberry AW13

Told you we’d throw a Brit in for good measure and who better then Mr Christopher Bailey MBE for Burberry Prorsum, who opted for the rather nostalgic theme of “I ♥ Classics” for his Autumnal showcase and on the whole I’d agree with him. It was a beautifully wearable collection but I’m just not quite sure about the injections of animal print, whether on bags, sunglasses, macs or on all the shoes throughout the show, maybe it’ll grow on me.

Next up is the all American brand helmed by the Italian Italo Zucchelli, Calvin Klein Collection. For this season Zucchelli seems to have fused a mix of contemporary masculine tailoring and futuristic sci-fi outerwear ala Blake 7, which saw the models look like either delegates or officers at some far flung inter galactic sartorial conference.

The Missoni show and its 60th anniversary was marred with the sad news that Vittorio Missoni and his wife Maurizia Castiglioni are still missing after their plane disappeared off the coast of Venezuela last Friday. The family decided the show must go on and indeed it did. The family run business famed for its patterned knitwear, offered a collection that couldn’t fail to please, not only were the aforementioned knits on display in outdoorsy hues. But the iconic family patterns were more subtly used in the weave of the fabric used in the construction of overcoats and suiting.

Prada AW13

What can I say about Prada, well I want that Blue jumper NOW ! for starters. This collection wasn’t tricksy or whimsical, apparently the design team have been working on the exact tones of colour for months and it certainly paid off for them. Sub-culture references were there, this time Teddy boys, but it wouldn’t be a Prada show without these. If I had to make one criticism of it, be it a small one, was I found the casting distracting, the models looked like the 3 stooges and their dad or some odd Slovakian version of Hollyoaks, but it wasn’t enough to detract from the show.

Gucci AW13

And so from one Italian Dynasty to another, Gucci are freakin good at what they do and Frida Giannini, is doing a sterling job as Creative Director, almost to the point of making it an impossible task to think who could ever replace her at the iconic Fashion house and who would have thought that after Tom Ford. The Gucci vision and DNA is so strong there is no mistaking a piece from this company from accessories to a tuxedo, it is undoubtably Gucci and this collection does not disappoint and can be summed u in one word, Classic, this is without a doubt Giannini’s most traditional of collections to date.

DSquared2 AW13

Finally, to the Dynamic DSquared2 duo of Canadian Twins Dan and Dean Caten. What a show ! Congratulations lads, the best collection to date and it all centred around 1940’s jazz clubs. But don’t let the retro theme fool you this was bang up to date and offered something everyman could buy into.

Vile, there’s no other word to describe the weather at the moment and because Summer, and hopefully nice warm weather, seems such a long way away at the moment. I thought I would cheer us all up by taking a look at the best of what the big High Street names have in store for us over the coming months, when we don’t have to wrap up in layer after layer.

Proving that they are more then a one season wonder, boohoo.com the new kid on the block is proving that they can play, nicely, I hope, with the big boys.

I always feel Burton struggle a little with catering for their customer in the Spring season but they haven’t done too bad at all with this collection.

Camouflage is a massive trend for SS13. Before, you say anything, I’m not even contemplating advising going for a drink in head to toe camp. Well unless it’s for a TA meeting. But believe it or not this highly directional look is from no other then Debenhams.

I have to say, H&M for SS13 have really got their stuff together. They are offering us guys a greg selection from casual to more formal and as always at their unbelievable prices.

I can’t believe these images have come from no other then, get ready for it, JOHN LEWIS !!!! They’ve blown me away for SS13, it was a tough call to choose just one image from their selection for this season. Well done guys, please keep it up

I know this is kinda stating the the obvious but M&S are amazing at suiting and SS13 certainly isn't an exception. Their casual wear for this season isn't bad either, but if your looking for a suit over the coming months, you'd do a lot worse then starting here.

I know this is kinda stating the the obvious but M&S are amazing at suiting and SS13 certainly is no an exception. Their casual wear for this season isn’t bad either, but if your looking for a suit over the coming months, you’d do a lot worse then starting here.

See what I mean about Camo, its everywhere, but thought New Look had captured the trend in a very wearable way. This brand both seem to be started to get their menswear and its improving season on season. So keep it up New Look you can’t afford to rest on those laurels.

Holy froly, Reiss are bloody good at what they do. What they do is produce GREAT trend driven clothes that are easy to put together and wear. My only criticism, maybe do them is slightly larger sizes, thats all.

River Island are on it when it comes to translating trends at affordable prices. What more can I say.

No mean, moody, gothis images this season. Here come the sun and TOPMAN is awash with colour and celebrating all things surf. I’m starting to warm up now.

For Spring/Summer of this year the Italian Fashion Powerhouse, Prada, have made a couple of impressive calls for their Advertising campaign, not content with using one major player in modern cinema they have used four. Four leading men – two of them true iconic actors of a generation, Benicio Del Toro (Traffic, The Usual Suspect) and Harvey Keitel (Taxi Driver , Reservoir Dogs). Two of them new school shining lights who are making a name for themselves in their own rights, Dane DeHaan (Chronicle, The Place beyond the Pines) and Aaron Taylor-Johnson (Savages, Kick Ass).

For the Campaign, the gentlemen, who were shot by the equally iconic photographer David Sims, appear in a series of intimate monochrome images which concentrate of the character of the subjects then what is going on around them. Additionally they’re styled simply with layered shirting, low cut polo shirts, functional eyewear and the utilitarian clean lines of jackets and lightweight coats.

The results speak for themselves, offering a striking, elegant and effective series of images, but judge for yourself.

Harvey Keitel

Dane DeHaan

Aaron Taylor-Johnson

Benicio Del Toro

Prada.com

(shot by Surgery TV a new fashion TV channel by Surgery PR)

Ok, before we start this morning I’ve a bit of a rant to get off my chest and I think it probably best put in the quote I’ve given to couple of publications, when asked to give my opinion on some of the more out there menswear shows we’ve seen this week during LC:M ;

“For Menswear designers today it’s increasingly difficult to obtain Media coverage so they know that, if they do wild and wacky pieces or collections they will achieve this. Very little has been spoken in the mainstream press about Agi & Sam who also were part of the MAN show, which included Craig Green and his, how can I put this, original face protection. This duo presented a great balance of directional and wearable clothing. Additionally, Oliver Spencer, Hackett, E.Tautz, Nutters of Savile Row or Matthew Miller, who all offered stand out collections that, virtually, any man could wear and look stylish and yet they receive very little column inches. It’s far easier to write negative articles about how crazy and mad Mens Fashion is even though the Fashion industry is worth £21bn to the UK economy.”

Jonathan Saunders AW13

OK end of rant, but I just find it sooooooo boring and lazy when people rip into Menswear, normally journalists who have very little experience of it and belittle and humiliate it when it’s a multi-million pound industry that is essential to the global economy and keeps millions of households in jobs every year alone.

Right then eyes down for round two and first on the agenda is Mr Jonathan Saunders, more known for his womenswear, this Scot is making real headway now with his Menswear. He drew his inspiration from the worlds of Op art, classicism and the Thin White Duke-era David Bowie, rather apt and maybe a good luck omen as it was Bowie’s birthday on this day. It was pleasant to see a collection which was so full of colour. My particular favourite piece was this harrington jacket in a gradation of colour like the sky at night when flying.

Richard James AW13

Over then to the re-furbished Cafe Royal for the Richard James Show who celebrates 21 years in the biz in 2013 and as you would expect showcased exceptional suiting and great re-working of the classic tuxedo in iridescent tones. According to the press release is was inspired by a unique fixture of London living that abounds with a curious, colourful life of its own. OK must have missed that but it was a great show.

Our next port of call was a Presentation called The English Gentleman at the Spencer House, which featured a mix of models dressed by Savile Row’s finest tailors. Forty different outfits were shown, spread through seven of the splendid rooms of London’s preeminent private palace. This essentially was a chance for Savile Row to, quite rightly, show off to the foreign press and just reiterate just how good at tailoring the UK is.

A mad dash ensued chasing round to attend a number of shows and presentations until the main event of the night, Alexander McQueen. Sarah Burton brought McQueen’s unique style of Gothic drama back to the UK and not since the Demeter carried Count Dracula to these shores have we seen such mystic. The models general demeanour was that of a rather demonic Max Headroom and the collection carried many of Burton’s trademark pagoda shoulder.This is something that won’t be to everyone’s likings, but there is no mistaking the sheer theatre of this collection.

The end of the Fashion world is nigh, well at least for London anyway before, its Milan’s turn to take on the baton. The subject of yesterday’s Post Christopher Raeburn started the final day of LC:M. Actor Russell Tovey, DJ/Presenter and face of Burton Menswear Reggie Yates (plus stylist Brother Cobi) Ohhh and we mustn’t forget Style Ambassador Dave Gandy all sat front row. Raeburn, invited us into his ethical world of outdoor pursuits, recycled and masculine menswear, with my personal favourites being his deconstructed checked parka with matching duffel bag.

E.Tautz AW13

A hop, skip and a jump over to join Patrick Grant at E.Tautz, here he offered his usual top class formal attire, where he perfectly blends the timeless traditions of Savile Row, yet manages to always deliver a bang up to date range. E.Tautz is one of those shows where you catch yourself thinking, want that, and that ohh and that. Keep it up sir.

Katie Eary AW13

Up next can only be described as an assault on your senses, almost a styling mugging, one could say. Kate Eary, managed to mash-up colours, patterns, prints and trends all without making look like some street wear dogs dinner. Everything from the styling to the music all worked in Eary’s favour. If you were feeling anyway jaded before you certainly felt lifted after that.

Lastly, what is starting to become LC:M’s equivalent of those memorable collaborations from the Brit Awards, like Dizzee and Florence, Justin and Kylie or Mick and Sam. Last year we saw Timothy Everest hook up with Superdry. This season we see the legendary Nutters of Savile Row team up with casual wear brand Peter Werth. These unusual bed partners came together while working on the wardrobe for the forthcoming film “Northern Soul”. The collection paid tribute to the archive of Tommy Nutter, oversized lapels, roped shoulders and wide leg trousers but mixed this with modern tailored sportswear so as to prevent it looking like a 70’s themed party. All these elements came together as a fitting an rip roaring finale to AW13’s LC:M, leaving just one question, how do you top that ?

CLOTHES MAKE THE MAN

Spring 2013 Preview

Milan Menswear Shows AW13

Preview of the Best of the High Street for SS13

Prada Spring/Summer 2013 Menswear Campaign

London Collections:MEN Autumn/Winter 2013 part II

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