CLOTHES MAKE THE MAN

The extraordinary mens blog for the modern man
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The Best of British Luck, Marks & Spencer Best of British range

Screen Shot 2013-09-23 at 18.13.25Way back in January of this year, during London Collections:MEN, we had an invite to come along and have a look at a best of British range, yeah OK, be a bit of a break from the treadmill of show after show in the pouring, freezing rain. Yet this invite was from no fashion designer, or cutting edge East London label, no, but from a very bastion of Britishness a quintessential National Treasure, none other then MARKS & SPENCER ! Yep, you’re not mistaken and any of you more loyal readers will note what followed, was yours truly falling in love with a Marks & Spencer product range more then their Christmas Sandwich selection !

Even M&S had underestimated their pulling power, for as we turned up shaking off the excess of the wintery showers, so did Supermodels David Gandy & future face of the collection Oliver Cheshire. Fashion Director of the Sunday Times STYLE Richard Grey, Shortlist’s Style Director, Adrian Clark, British GQ’s Editor, Dylan Jones and a plethora of style press big shots.

The collection is a celebration of the best in British design and manufacture, using some of the industry’s best cloths, suppliers and age old knowledge to produce a collection which is completely contemporary all the whilst drawing on inspiration from stylistic British icons.

The Man behind this concept is Tony O’Connor(see below), the brand’s Head of Design for menswear, who joined the company in 2008 bringing with him a wealth of experience and a strong focus on design and brand clarity and who we caught up with to find out a little bit more about the collection and his good self.

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In your words, describe the collection ?

The Best of British collection is an edit of timeless pieces – I would describe them as confident and masculine, constructed in contemporary shapes with an emphasis on traditional British craftsmanship and quality

What was the inspiration for it ?

The M&S archive in Leeds was a key reference point for the collection. We were able to look back at traditional British styles that M&S has made through the decades, and the craftsmanship that went into British made items, to produce an updated collection that not only shows an appreciation for the technical skill involved, but also has a timeless essence that remains relevant today  

What are the key pieces in it

The double breasted suits and coats are a key stand out shape for the collection

If you could collaborate with one brand (Who you currently aren’t) who would it be and why ?

Quite honestly, it’s been really exciting working with the British suppliers for this collection, such as Cheshire Bespoke for suits and Cheaney’s for shoes

If you could give your teenage self advice, what would it be ?

Start thinking about what you want to do as a career, explore it and do it! I got into art and photography at an early age, which was a useful start to my career

How did you get into the industry, what was your big break ?

I got a taste for menswear, after getting a Saturday job at a clothing store in Newcastle. Working here helped me decide what to do creatively

What piece of clothing best describes you ?

The formal jacket and the pocket square

What piece of clothing would you relegate to Room 101 ?

Dungarees

What piece of clothing should everyman have in his wardrobe ?

A tuxedo for special occasions

What piece of style advise do you live by ?

Choose British made shoes

Who is your style icon ? Why ?

As young men, Hugh Hefner and Oliver Reed. They had a sexy masculine style.

If you could only wear one brand/Designer for the rest of your life who would it be ? Why ?

Working on a collection born in Britain and with British suppliers has been a lifelong ambition of mine, so it would have to be this brand!

 The Best of British collection hits Marks & Spencer Store and website from 10th October.

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I wanna do whatever Common People do – Common People

Common People 3 AW13Common People is essentially Kestin Hare, who cut his creativity teeth as Head of Design for the master of Outerwear Nigel Cabourn. Throughout his time here he never lost sight or love of his home town of Edinburgh and so after fifteen years of working for other people, he decided to return to Scotland create his own label and raise a family in his home town of Edinburgh.

Hare wanted to create a menswear brand that fused his love of Vintage and quality menswear into something of his very own, manufactured in the UK and was affordable to people with a common interest in quality menswear and this was the birth of Common People.

Common People is designed for people with a common interest in premium clothing and footwear. Common People represents a movement back to provenance and focuses on premium quality, craftsmanship and local sourcing to create a contemporary product with identity.

Common People AW13 jpgFor Autumn Kestin has drawn inspiration from some key vintage finds from the Prohibition era,  which influence the collections key shapes and details. The signature CP workwear blazer reinvents itself in pinstriped wool with matching cinch back, railroad trousers. The brands classic Mackinaw and Norfolk jackets are fabricated in a knitted woven style ushering a new direction into traditional styles for this season.

The heritage elements of the collection are combined with technical nylons, which reflect a contrasted sportswear feel. The bonded mac stands out with its electric blue neoprene lining whilst the short technical parkas add a new feel to the brand and collection.

Further to this the brand recently opened a flagship store in Edinburgh, no surprises there. The store is located in the unique destination area of Stockbridge and is nestled between contemporary interior boutiques, barbers shops, and the best cocktail bars and delis. The store interior has a minimal luxe feel with bold industrial features including original lighting design by Hare constructed from reclaimed bed frames, and a beautiful salvaged stainless steel table. This merging of clean lines with vintage also mirrors the signature style of Common People – modern heritage.

Common People 2 AW13

 

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This season’s top hairstyles for Autumn/Winter 2013

Screen Shot 2013-09-30 at 10.19.02On a purely selfish tip here, but I’m sure I’m not on my own, I’m in need of a good hair cut and also a bit sick to death of my usually short back and sides. So, it got me to thinking I should seek the advice of a professional and out came the Clothes Make the Man little black book, actually the not so little, I’ll have you know, and top of the list came the Award-winning hairdresser, owner of two salons, global ambassador for Matrix Haircare, TV personality and British Hairdresser of the Year 2013 & 2012 nominee, none other then Mr Jamie Stevens. Jamie has fast established a well-deserved reputation as one of the nation’s most successful and talented celebrity hairstylists.

This charismatic and gifted man has seen him work with everyone from Kylie Minogue, Elle Macpherson and Eva Herzigova to Christian Slater, Hugh Grant and Olly Murs. He has also been recognised for his exceptional men’s hair skills, twice winning the British Hairdressing Awards Men’s Hairdresser of the Year Award, as well as being the English Hair & Beauty Awards Men’s Stylist of the Year 2013 and winning the first ever Men’s Stylist of the Year category at the HAIR Awards 2013. OK, OK I’ll shut and let him speak.

Screen Shot 2013-09-30 at 19.49.00Slick & Side Parted – Seen on everyone from Leonardo Di Caprio to Justin Timberlake, defined side partings were a key trend for Spring/Summer and show no signs of going away for Autumn/Winter. This trend kicked off with pop culture influences from shows such as Boardwalk Empire, Downtown Abbey, Pan Am and Mad Men, where the guys wore hair very slick and this classic cut with clean edges, is definitely enjoying a renaissance.

To achieve this, you should ask for a hair cut tapered at the sides and cut into the parting, whilst maintaining enough length on top to comb over to the side. It does require regular maintenance trims to keep it looking sharp, but it looks super stylish and is so easy to style, you just need a comb and product – opt for gels, pomades and glossing products, rather than those with a matte finish.

The finished style can be worn sharper or softer, depending on your face shape and preference. At its sharpest, style from wet with a comb and a good strong hold gel such as Matrix Design Pulse Rock Solid, keeping the hair as flat as possible and making sure product is evenly distributed.

The softer version, think Leonardo’s Gatsby, where volume is present and hair more styled, use a Denman brush and dry the hair backwards towards the crown. Then, using a wax paste like Matrix Design Pulse Shape Scene, apply from front to back for a more textured finish, with flexibility and movement

Screen Shot 2013-09-30 at 19.50.17Longer Hair & Natural Texture – In contrast, longer hairstyles embracing the hair’s natural texture are also a key look for Autumn/Winter. This look is about dishevelled unfussy hair, like your man has just rolled out of bed, think Harry Styles, as well as a return to even longer lengths. After washing your hair, liberally work a sea salt spray into the hair and apply a small amount of a matte clay, such as Matrix Design Pulse Beach Clay into your roots and shape into the desired look. Let it dry naturally or in the colder months, scrunch dry it with your fingers and mould into shape.

Screen Shot 2013-09-30 at 19.51.38Quiffs – We’re seeing a lot of textured quiffs in demand, where the back and sides are cropped short to really heighten the impact of the length on top. This work best on hair with a natural wave, but we’ve also been seeing an increase in requests for perms to achieve this look on hair that doesn’t naturally curl so easily, just make sure your stylist uses big rods as this will make it wavier and will sit back better.

For the cut, ask your stylist for a skin fade as this will give you the best cut to maximise the top length. To style, apply a styling cream into the hair before blow-drying such as Matrix Design Pulse Loosely Defined to give hold and lift. Dry the hair back in the direction you want it to sit and as big as possible. With a clay-like product – Matrix Design Pulse Quick & Dirty, rub it generously into your hands and fingers and starting at the back of your head imagine you’re putting the product on your scalp and start to work it forward, encouraging lift at the front to maximise the quiff. Finish some good hairspray for guys.

Alternatively, you can blow-dry the quiff out into more of a Beckham-inspired look that has been so popular – the key here is the cut as he has been clippered with one grade to really show separation between the lengths.

 

To learn different ways of styling your hair at home, ask your stylist when having your hair cut for specific tips and tricks on how to adapt your look and the key products required to achieve it, so that you change your look up depending on your mood.

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Back for Good ? Unfortunately not, only for a short time – The Farrell Pop up Shop

_DSC1573The National treasure, Sir Robbie of Williams, is no longer just a singer, ohhh no siree ! I’ll have you know the multi-platimun award winning crooner has ventured into the clothing industry, as I’m sure you all know as we interviewed his highly talented Design partner Ben Dickens last year. Farrell, as the brand is known, is named after Williams’ grandfather Jack Farrell and based on the principles of British honesty, style and integrity.

For Autumn the brand has taken the decision to showcase its collection within a pop up retail space and in turn creating a brand emporium. Thinking long and hard for the right location the brand opted for Earlham Street in London’s Covent Garden, chosen for its blend of unique village identity and charm, the 500 square feet space will house the entire AW13 FARRELL collection while the store itself reinterprets distinctly English tones through its beautifully curated fixtures and visual merchandising.

Key pieces from this season’s collection such as trenches, reefers and other military inspired designs will be on show, each style meticulously designed and contemporized through fit, while ensuring each item keeps all of the functionality and durability it was known for. In addition, sharp tailoring, crisp cotton shirts, chunky knitwear and a full range of accessories will also be available, catering for the more sartorially minded consumer.

Williams says of the project, “I’m really excited to be able to present the Farrell experience under one roof and have the opportunity to show exactly what we do and what we stand for.  We’re here for a good time, not a long time”

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An Iconic Shirt designed by Icons – Ben Sherman X The Icons

Continuing the collaboration with Teenage Cancer Trust, Ben Sherman is pleased to announce The Icons – a shirt project that involves icons from the world of music and art from the last 5 decades. 5 different icons from the 1960’s to 2000 have designed a print to go on the iconic Ben Sherman button down shirt. Launching in September at Ben Sherman stores, the shirts are limited to 250 per design, hand numbered and priced at £125 with all net proceeds will go to Teenage Cancer Trust.

Roger Daltrey_FFR_21960’s – Who else but legendary front man from The Who and Patron of Teenage Cancer Trust, Roger Daltry. His shirt design was inspired by the Union Jack, which is an iconic emblem featured on The Who’s most memorable album – The kids are Alright.

Peter Blake1970’s – Sir Peter Blake became one of the best known British pop artists of his time. His creation for the shirt uses the signature star symbol used throughout his work appliqued onto the chest pocket. His actual signature has also been embroidered onto the shirt, making it a collector’s item for any avid fans.

Bernard Sumner1980’s – Bernard Sumner is a legend, a musician, singer, songwriter, guitarist, keyboardist, producer, and former Nightclub owner (The Hacienda) his body of work has been seminal for decades. He is a founding member, lead vocalist and guitarist of New Order and he is also known for being a founding member of the bands Joy division and Bad Lieutenant. His design uses a black cotton button-down shirt with a ‘Veritas’ emblem on the front pocket, which means ‘Truth’ in Latin.

Jarvis Cocker1990’s – An excellent choice to represent a decade of such unforgettable music, Mr Jarvis Cocker is an English musician and frontman for the band Pulp. Through his work with the band, Cocker became a figurehead of the Britpop movement of the mid-1990s. His shirt design is based on a classic pale-blue Oxford shirt and showcases his signature thick-rimmed spectacles embroidered on to the font pocket.

Jake & Dinos2000’s –  Few British Artists’ work has gained such note as a Jake & Dinos Chapman,  who work together as a collaborative sibling duo. They were nominated for the annual Turner Prize in 2003 and their work continues to maintain huge global interest. The shirt they have created is a white oxford with red smiley faces.

 

teenagecancertrust.org