London Collections: Men SS14 Shows Review Part II

Screen Shot 2013-06-19 at 16.52.12One could say how do you follow yesterday’s post
regarding the first half of SS14’s London Collection:Men
(sorry still don’t like the name), well the answer is simple with
the likes of Alexander McQueen, Oliver Spencer, Burberry and
Paul Smith. And so lets not waste any more of either of our time
and get underway with one of the aforementioned style giants,
in the form of the house of McQueen. Like yesterday, as I said,
rather then me churner on giving my twopence on every John,
Dick & Agi, I’ll let the leaders of the Style pack give it
to you. This time round Lee Holden, leading Menswear
Stylist
gives us his take on the
Alexander McQueen Menswear show….
“It was great all black and white. Lots of surface
texture. Overlaid lace on suits. Brocade in black and white.
Edwardian silhouette. Long line jackets. Loads of parallel silk
shorts with cinchers on the sides of the knees”.

So from the royalty of McQueen we head to the equally regal
Oliver Spencer, with the PR’s on the
door whispering of a surprise and with Jesse Metcalfe, Dermot
O’Leary and David Gandy (of course) sat FROW the show can begin.
But who’s that walking to the Decks strategically placed in the
centre of the catwalk ???? None other then blicking, Luther
himself, Idris Elba !!!!! The show gets underway with as always a
character filled show, including Wretch 32 modelling. The
inspiration for this season’s collection was the early graffiti
work of the 1980’s Neo-expressionist painter Jean-Michel Basquiat,
with a colour palette of Faded Red, Amber and Sky Blue, anchored by
Navy.

Then its the schlep over to the banks of the River Thams and
Old Billingsgate Market, for the
Hackett show. All things 1960’s proved
to inspire Jeremy Hackett for this Collection, particularly the
work of iconic photographer Terry ‘ONeill, who has shot the Autumn
13 campaign for the brand. Plus the French illustrator René Gruau’s
work, but the standout point for the show has to be the full 38
piece Orchestra of the London Philharmonic supplying the score for
the show ! The Clothes, like Gieves offered us a holiday wardrobe
this more Rivera style, with lightweight summer tweeds, dog tooth
checks, turtlenecks and playful patterns and colours.

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Into the straights now for the final furlong of LC:M and onto the great man
himself Sir Paul Smith and all I can
say is what an honour to have him personally take me through the
collection himself. He explained to me his Best of
British
range and the unique suits that only Paul Smith
could do, in simply the most amazing fabrics that he worked on very
closely with the Yorkshire mill Joseph Clissold & Son.
While we were talking he was telling me about how they had re-make
some vintage pieces from the Paul Smith Archive for Matt Smith’s
Doctor Who costume, but he wouldn’t be drawn on who he would like
to see filling those shoes, maybe its him !

So feeling slightly dizzy with going back and fourth around London, we head back to
LC:M HQ in Covent Garden to view the wares of Marks
& Spencer’s Made in Britain collection
. SS14
will be the second season for this range and its hard to see how
they can build on the preview which they gave us of the Autumn
collection, to hit stores in September. Well they blooming well
did, my favourite pieces were the umbrellas which took all my will
power now to try and snaffle one for this inclement “summer”. The
bags not only looked but felt well beyond their retail price and
the Scottish Cashmere in the Modtro tailoring inspired by their
Leeds Archive was inspired.

Screen Shot 2013-06-19 at 17.02.14The designer of the next show was the
subject of last season’s profile, Mr Christopher
Raeburn
, still gains inspiration from nature and the
great outdoors, though this season he explores the notion of
protection, focusing on the men of the Long Range Desert Group. A
reconnaissance and raiding unit from World War II who experienced
the extreme conditions of the desert environment. Raeburn brings an
element of modernity to tailoring for his latest range, as
sportswear is blended with the former.

Another Christopher up next
but this time its Shannon rather then Raeburn and it’s the turn of
the inimitable Mr Richard Gray, Associate Fashion
Director of the Sunday Times Style
to give his
unique take on Christopher Shannon’s
collection…

“This is the next level, la!
I’ve got middle-aged man-tits and grey riah and wanted it ALL. Will
have it all. That doesn’t mean it’s for old lads, it just means
it’s opened up to more people.
1. The colour – did a lil sex-wee over
it.
2. Collars in
colour – recalcitrant teen in court, circa 1974. Want to be
him.
3. The Junior
Gaultier-y branding and stars. SOLD!”

OK then, that brings us so nicely to not only the penultimate show of the review but what has to be
the most exciting and awaited, as Christopher Bailey brings
Burberry Prorsum home to the UK to
show its SS14 Menswear collection and lets just say it didn’t
disappoint. I have to admit, I am a Johnny come later fan of the
work of Bailey and I’d sit through numerous Burberry shows in Milan
and listen to Journalists and Stylists tell me about how great the
show was and I’d think I don’t get it. Then akin to St Paul on the
Road to Damascus, I had an epiphany moment and haven’t looked back.
This collection was a cracker, of course inspired by David Hockney
and like Hockney the use of colour, whether is be with the watches,
sunglasses or any garment was genius. Keep up the good work Bailey
and heres to seeing you back in London again in January.

And so it is the end of the third London Collections:Men, getting bigger and
better each time, a bit like my blisters and who may we see on the
schedule for next season ???? Vivienne Westwood maybe, Neil
Barrett, possibly maybe ever a count of our international cousins,
who would be very welcome in the cold that will be January 14 ! But
hold you horses, we have one more show and for us at
Clothes Make the Man, a blinder of a
designer and the subject of this season’s profile. Mr
Patrick Grant for
E.Tautz.
Patrick takes us on a journey in and
around the many ethic cultures that call London home and make it
such a cosmopolitan hotbed. From the Bangladeshi community of East
London to A Japanese man who reads his book wearing a traditional
robe as Grant cycles past in King Edwards Park. All groups
retaining parts of their over clothing identity but encompassing
parts of their new home, normally height duty coats to combat the
environment of the UK. Grant managed to bring in all of these
factors and make them work as part of one solid collection.

London Collections: Men SS14 Shows Review Part I

Without wanting to sound like a an OAP complaining about the passing of time, I really can’t believe that we are already at the Spring Summer 2014 shows, when it feels like Summer 2013 is looking increasing looking like a non-starter. Shhh where is the time gone ? As my Father would have said ?
Well no reason to get melancholy, as the third London Collections:Men gets underway. An unusual way to kick proceedings off in the shape of one of the UK’s most trusted names and producer of, probably the best Christmas Ad campaigns in recent years, John Lewis. Yes, it’s not a mistake, it wasn’t an all singing, all dancing Catwalk show, but a more simple and parred down
presentation to Showcase their British made in house brand John Lewis & Co, in front of Aston from JLS, Russell Tovey and
Kimberley Wyatt (Pussycat Doll). Following this, we then had a couple of hours to prepare for what can only be described as an
extravaganza in the shape and form of the opening of the new exclusively menswear store and a preview of their Tailoring line,
oh who, you ask, well only the Italian dynamic duo Domenico Dolce & Stefanio Gabbana ! It was a low key intimate affair… Of
bloody course not, not from these guys, it was full on, full throttle and in the words of Ms Ciccone’s, t-shirt in the Papa don’t preach video, Italians do it better ! All with a little help from Dame Kylie Mingoue of Erinsborough, no less.
Screen Shot 2013-06-19 at 11.49.02So with a slightly fussy head it was off into town for the proceeding of the day to commence, with more then a little feeling of, they better appreciate this, at this unholy hour on a Sunday Morning. First port of call was a coffee and a catch up with the always lovely British Esquire team at the John Smedley Presentation. Styled brilliantly by Luke Day, the Smedley brand is going through somewhat of a butterfly transformation, everything about the event seemed in a playful mood, with the models in a school gym backdrop and every colour of the rainbow being present within the range. Something for everyone, one might say.
Then off to the pub, del,l no not literally, on second thoughts, yes literally, as TOPMAN had taken over the Old Crown
Public house and were using at as a much needed pit stop for Press inbetween shows. Seriously, Sir Pip of Arcadia, whoever came up with this brilliant idea needs knighting ! The whole purpose of this visit was to pick up our tickets to the TOPMAN Design show. This season a much shorter and concise show, not to everyone’s taste, but you can’t keep everyone happy all of the time
and if  TOPMAN are anything its brave and willing to try different things. The TREND and really the only trend of the show was Cowboy. I caught up with Gordon Richardson, Design Director, after the show who told me it was all about Destroyed Glamour , finding inspiration in the Robert Altman Classic Western “Nashville” , but on closer inspection there are a number of 1950’s B movie references within the embroidery on the pieces.
Screen Shot 2013-06-19 at 11.55.08Now as part of this season’s review of the Mens Fashion Weeks for SS14, I’ve sought the opinions of some of the most well respected and top of their game, minds within Menswear, ohh and all friends and ardent fans of Clothes Make the Man. First up is Menswear Stylist for The Independent, Lee Holmes, who had a soft spot for……
“Richard Nicoll was one of the stand out shows for me as it was both wearable but didn’t lack impact. Prints made up of old school gay porn, snakes and hawks was a winning combination.”
We then moved on to a brand which couldn’t have given us more of a juxtaposition if we’d have tried, Gieves and Hawkes. The Savile Row giant with the enviable address of No 1 Savile Row, under the new Creative direction of Jason Basmajian who also masterfully styled the presentation, gave us a glimpse of what it would be like to embark on a long summer holiday with stops planned in Amalfi, Nairobi, Barbados and Shanghai and what one would wear during the many events and occasions one would experience during such a trip, beat two weeks in Corfu anyday.Screen Shot 2013-06-19 at 11.58.07After this pleasurable jaunt, it was back to zig zagging across London to, what in my opinion has to have been one of THE shows during LC:M, Agi & Sam. Although producing probably their most grown up collections to date they never once lost sight of their fun and playful nature which is one of the most enduring qualities of this pairing. Well, this and the fact that Agi’s parents were seat in front of me and seemed the proudest and loveliest of people. They showed us a throughly modern range including ever element within the gambit of a man’s wardrobe but done in their inimitable style. Ohhh plus a sneaky lil cameo endorsement from no less then Sir Paul Smith, who told me himself he was a great admirer of there work.Screen Shot 2013-06-19 at 12.02.44Spencer Hart was next to show us his wears for Spring Summer 2014 and what a visual experience is was, full of Eastern promise. The show opened and pretty much closed with offering us an alternative to the traditional tuxedo, teaming a dinner jacket with a traditional Arabic Jalabiya. The casting showcased some of the coolest black models in the industry today, including, Actor Nathan Stewart-Jarrett of Misfits, this begged the question of, why don’t we see more of these guys on the catwalk, but that’s a much bigger kettle of fish then we have time for. Hart teased us with a collection of must have tailoring, making you want to cast off every piece of casual wear you ever possessed.

The next gem on the agenda was none other then that master of Ladies footwear Jimmy Choo, who are turning their hand to mens shoes. I know what you’re thinking I had the same preconceptions and really had to be coerced into attending, I have no idea what I was letting myself in for, but was more then pleasantly surprised ! Everything from a high tops to a porn penny loafer and don’t get me started on the porn camo or paisley, great shoes with a great sense of humour and all done in the BEST possible taste !

Screen Shot 2013-06-19 at 12.06.26Finally, to the last designer for the first part of our review of London’s finest, Clive Darby’s RAKE. Inspired by the extravagantly talented gentleman Racer François Cevert, including the wreck of the very car in which Cevert lost his life, which was a little too macabre for my liking. But nothing could prevent my liking of this collection, as cool as the man who acted as muse, highly wearable with lashings of style.

Pounding the Pavements in Levi’s City Inspired Trainer

image-3Levi’s Jeans occupy a very privileged place in the apparel Universe. No one can argue that over time no other denim brand has been so historically iconic from their birth by Levi Strauss & Co in 1873, to being the most desired and traded object on the black market in countries behind the iron curtain in the 1980’s and producing some of the most memorable Advertising campaign of any brand from Nick Karman’s  501’s to errr Flat Eric.

Bringing us to today where Levi’s have looked back at their extensive heritage as inspiration for their latest venture of urban running trainers. The Levi’s brand knows that trainers are an essential part of a man’s wardrobe whether he likes to wear them while relaxing in his jeans on the weekend or teaming them up with chinos for a mid-week night out. They’re a go-to item that works no matter what you’re up to.

The Design boffins over at Levi’s have taken classic running style shoes from the eighties and reinterpreted them to instill a strong sense of craftsmanship and refinement for today’s contemporary man.  An interesting eco element of the shoe is the fact that they have shredded old shoes and mixed them with a rubber compound to become a new outsole and in keeping with their denim heritage, while you might normally associate chambray with Levi’s shirts, the new city runners have been lined with this stylish fabric to give them some additional refinement on the inside.

 

 

 

 

A Super Out of this World Collaboration – French Connection and Warner Brothers

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For Summer 2013, there are a number of blockbusters that have people chomping at the bit with excitement and has them waiting in anticipation to sit in a darkened room for 2 and a bit hours. There’s Star Trek 2, The Great Gatsby, Monsters University, The Wolverine, but the one that has the most people all giddy is Superman, Man of Steel ! To mark this movie-llous Summer of film, French Connection who have built up a reputation of promoting film heritage through its product, continues its longstanding collaboration with retro comic book giant DC.

The French Connection Design team were invited to explore the archives of DC Comics, following original design guidelines and producing an exclusive range of T-shirts featuring original artwork  of Kal-El (Superman’s Krypton name) as well as imagery from the new release, giving the range a vintage aesthetic through the use of screen printing.

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Father’s Day Gift Guide in association with M&S

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Yes, its come round again Father’s Day is this Sunday, well just in case the above banner, courtesy of our kind friends at Marks & Spencer, wasn’t a big enough clue. Hey, you can’t ever say Clothes-Make-the-Man don’t help you out we’ve scoured the internet looking for some of the best gifts around for the Big Man in your life. Gift’s that will have your Pop wiping a tear from his eye and saying things like, “But son you shouldn’t have” and “So much thought must have gone in to that son”. We’ve gone for more unusual gift ideas for this year, no don’t worry no weekend yoga retreats in the middle of nowhere, or chocolate coated crickets, you’re alright. Now if that wasn’t enough M&S have also supplied us with their top ten gift ideas for Dad’s. What more you ask for ?

1) OK first off let’s aim high and you can’t get much higher then the all new and UK’s first Helicopter sightseeing tour. It starts from either the Heliport in London’s Battersea or the Redhill Aerodrome near Gatwick Airport. The route over London follows The River Thames from Putney in the West to Greenwich in the East, climbing to over 1,000ft above the City’s stunning skyline. During the flight passengers will get to see some of the capital’s most historic landmarks including Buckingham Palace, Westminster Abbey, The Tower of London, and Shakespeare’s Globe Theatre and new attractions like The Shard.  Famous sporting venues including Wembley, The Emirates (ohh well) and the Olympic Stadium are also visible from the route and last for approximately 20 minutes.

Chris Mann, MD of The London Helicopter says: “We’re thrilled to have launched the first London based helicopter sightseeing service from London’s only Heliport.  Joining the likes of New York, Las Vegas and Cape Town makes us enormously proud.”  PS, Shhhhh for Father’s day any dads taking flights will receive an exclusive goodie bag of gifts.

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2) Always remember there’s nothing wrong with buying socks as a gift, as no man can never have too many socks, well almost. Now it’s not the sock giving, where problems arise, but the actual socks themselves. Now if you’re looking to impress your dear old Dad, your really can’t go wrong with Richmondsocks.com, we’ve mentioned them a couple of time here and they are doing a sterling job in bringing great socks to the great masses.Offering everything and anything any man could possibly want in sock formation from Corgi to Wolsey.

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3) Now we all know smoking is not only a social faux pas but a big time no no generally on every possible front, plus with the smoking ban being ever extending, these wonderful luxurious chocolate cigars from the men’s collection of luxury Italian Chocolatier Venchi’s, don’t half do the trick.

SONY DSC4) You know when you see something and you think, thats genius ! Why hasn’t someone thought of that before ? Well, when you see the work of Tommy Sauce, you’ll ask yourself that very question.  Their aim is simple: to provide football fans with something beautiful for their homes. As Andrew and Ben, the brains behind this wonderful idea put it, “Inspired by the vibrant colours, chants and deeply rich history of the national game, we want our work to capture the true passion of football.” Ohhh and the most surprising thing about this gem of a product is the price and thats all I’m saying, see for yourself. Now just to show we are totally impartial here at Clothes Make the Man we’re going to show two of their images, one for the best football team in the world and some other team.

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5) Grooming products are always a winner for Dad no matter what age, as a rule of thumb here at Clothes-Make-the-Man we try and stay clear of clique  grooming gifts and there are no excuses at the moment as their are great gift set about at the moment. If you’re looking for something a little different maybe take a look at I Coloniali. This Italian range of Men’s Skin Treatments contains a unique Calmiskin phytoagent of white willow bark extract to soothe and regenerate skin. Or if your looking for a bargain this Father’s day look no further then Clinique who are offering the below FREE with the purchase of any two or more Skin Supplies for Men products up until Saturday 15th June.

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6) Cufflinks can be perceived as a traditional gift even sometimes a little bit cheesy, but one thing that can never be said about these cufflinks by Rachel Eardley is that they’re Cheesy. She creates beautiful pieces that are handcut from decommissioned coins and finished in sterling silver. These stylish hound cufflinks are handcut from Irish coins and are simple yet stylish.

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7) If Dad is partial to a spot of boys only games night, then this is the perfect gift for him, ensured to leave him lost for words. From Aspinal of London, this exquisitely hand bound by master craftsmen in the finest quality Black Lizard calf leather over a handmade wooden box frame with the interior lavishly lined in Aspinal signature Purple padded suede. Each Leather Poker Chip set comprises of 100 poker chips, five poker die and two decks of ‘Faberge inspired’ playing cards. A genuine item of luxury for the dad who appreciates the finer things in life!

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8) A watch is a timeless gift, see what I did there, that any Father will value, sorry I seem to be sounding like a Hallmark card. Uniform Wares offer great timepieces that encapsulate classic design but couldn’t be more contemporary and are a real investment  without costing an arm and leg. This example is part of the new 152 Series it’s a modern reinterpretation of the classic dress watch and has a refined, ultra-thin silhouette.

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10) Finally, talk about the gift that keeps on giving, this amazing, get ready for it, 85″ S9 Ultra High Definition LED TV by Samsung breaks new boundaries in the world of HD TV. With breath-taking picture quality and concert quality audio, this stunning 85″ screen and unique design delivers an unreal, excitingly immersive experience. As for performance, Smart Evolution – technology unique to Samsung – gives you the world’s first Future Ready UHD TV. Ohhh and you’ll need a spare £35,000.00 OK £34, 999.00 to pay for it. I wonder how they get it in your house ?

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THE MARKS & SPENCER TOP TEN FATHER’S DAY GIFTS

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