CLOTHES MAKE THE MAN

For summer 2012 the British casual wear brand Supremebeing have worked with three contemporary photographers and let them use their new generation Supremebeing Tee as a canvas for their work. The photographers Peter Holm, Andrew Kuykendall & Jason Pachos all worked to this season’s themes Faded Future and The Wash.

Peter Holm travelled extensively through Asia, Australia and North America, chronicling his stories along the way using vintage equipment and old-school photographic techniques to create a series of images which capture urban exteriors shot from the hip, produced in LOMO vibrant colours, with burn out techniques reminiscent of 1970’s Polaroids.

Andrew Kuykendall lives in Los Angeles,but hopes to someday live in a trailer in the Desert, OK each to their own. He is inspired by the ability of using the medium of imagery to tell stories, whether that be of his journeys or through his professional work which has appeared in numerous international Fashion magazines. Ohhh and he’s learning to play the accordion.

Jason Pachos studied photography in Cambridge, but now resides in Sao Paulo working for visual ventures and freelance photography. Pachos likes photography to be allured in every aspect of it, the theme, style, trend or aesthetic. He believes, “If it’s good, I’ll like it, It’ll inspire me”.

They’ve just dropped at the Supremebeing website… here

There was a time that if you mentioned that you were from Manchester, wherever you were in the World, and I literally mean anywhere, take my word for this, the other person no matter their nationality would smile at you and say, “ahhhh Manchester United, the Haçienda” and maybe, “Coronation Street”. The world renounced Superclub paved the way for the likes of Cream, The Ministry of Sound, plus countless Ibizan club night running to this day and even earned the accolade of, “the most famous club in the World”, by Newsweek Magazine.

It was far more then a nightclub, owned by the late music Svengali, sometime TV Presenter and all round Mancunian legend Anthony (or Tony) H Wilson with the groundbreaking group New Order. Much has been documented about the unique way the Haçienda or Haç, as it was universally known was managed, its gangland violence and drug troubles, its legendary Nights, DJ’s and musical acts including, Beautiful 2000, Flesh, Nude, Graeme Park, Mike Pickering, Dave Haslam, The Smiths and someone called Madonna’s first UK performance.

This year marks, what would or should have been, the club’s 30th Anniversary and as part of a series of cultural events to celebrate this, the Haçienda team have worked with the Sports heritage brand Ellesse on a bespoke collection to commemorate three decades of the legendary club.

This anniversary tribute honours the spirit and history of The Haçienda and the style influences which evolved from the iconic club, the collection being themed as “Label, Location, Legacy”.

This unique and limited edition collaboration will be previewed at a launch event in Manchester’s Harvey Nichols store on Thursday 17th May, four days prior to The Hacienda’s actual anniversary, 21st May 2012. The in-store event will also see a Q&A session with Peter Hook, Graeme Park and other characters from FAC 51’s, the Haçienda individual number, which was given to every project undertaken my Wilson’s Factory Records, plus DJ sets and the first chance to order the highly limited numbers of the commemorative Haçienda shirts.

A point of interest for all you memorabilia geeks, sorry I mean collectors is, the metal buttons on this limited capsule collection sourced from the legendary venue itself, offering each purchase a true piece of Haçienda history. With three designs, coming individually numbered in runs of only 51 shirts, each signed by The Haçienda’s Peter Hook. Each shirt in the collection is individually named and comes with bespoke design elements and packaging, which ensures these pieces are sure to become much sought after collectors items for the many Haçienda and Factory devotees.

Alongside the limited edition product launch, there is set to be a trio of Manchester events(X1, X2 & X3, get it), details of which can be found at fac51thehacienda.com and also at facebook.com/fac51thehacienda.

The anniversary will also see an exhibition at Manchester Photographic Gallery running throughout May, which will feature a specially constructed model of The Haçienda and a whole host of unseen Haçienda material and original photography from the archives.

www.facebook.com/fac51thehacienda

http://www.ellesseheritage.com/

Richard James, celebrates 20 years, this year, as a resident of Savile Row. The ever sartorially Nick Sullivan, now of US Esquire, wrote in 1992 for it’s British counterpart, of James. “There’s a new boy in the Row and he’s causing quite a stir. What’s more, he’s not a tailor. Richard James is too busy to worry about his neighbours”.

Ever since then Richard James has been both too busy and causing quite a stir in equal measures on what has to be the most famous of streets on the face of the Earth, when it come to matters of the cloth, scissors and chalk. He first caused raised eyebrows for, bless yourself, introducing Saturday Opening on Savile Row !!! But maybe a few more browed were raised when his Ad campaign back in 1996 featuring a man dressed impeccably in one of his suits is seen throwing himself off a building, resulting in it being banned, OK moving on.

The philosophy of this man is to produce classic clothing of unsurpassable quality, but to push the boundaries through design, colour and cut, which has resulted in Richard winning many awards from the British Fashion Council’s Designer of the Year & GQ’s Man of the Year.

Over the years he’s dressed everyone from Tom Cruise, Mr James Bond himself, Daniel Craig, both Liam & Noel Gallagher for their wedding days, Robert De Niro, David Beckham and even SpongeBob Square Pants, kinda.

Even the old school of Savile Row have softened to the charms of Richard as he was made one of the founding members of the Savile Row Bespoke Association, which is formed by the Row’s tailors to promote and protect the traditions of bespoke tailoring on Savile Row.

Recently, as the more regular readers of Clothes-make-the-man.com will know, he has worked with that bastion of British retailing on an inspired by Savile Row suit range for Marks & Spencer. But amongst all of this he managed to answer a couple of questions for our good selves, enjoy.

If you could have invented anything what would it be?

The suit. A perfect piece of design, the detail of which affords endless opportunities to express individuality.

If you had one day to live what would be your biggest regret?

That I haven’t traveled more. It’s such an inspiration and there are too many countries that I haven’t seen. Bolivia, Peru, Ecuador…

What would be the one piece of clothing you would rescue from your home in the event of a fire?

A floral Mr Fish shirt from the late sixties. The shop was on Clifford Street, just a couple of doors away from where Richard James Bespoke is now.

Who is your style icon?

Tommy Nutter. He made Savile Row so exciting in the 70s.

The tailoring icon Tommy Nutter

If you could only wear one brand for the rest of your life who would it be?

It would have to be Richard James. I get a discount!

Tell us something no one else knows?

If you make suits, you can only call yourself a tailor if you work for yourself. If you’re employed by someone else you’re a cutter.

What piece of style advice do you live by?

Dress for yourself, not for other people.

Have you ever bought a piece of clothing and regretted it?

Stunning vintage Cazal sunglasses. Too bling for me. But I still put them on from time to time and try to convince myself that they’re not.

What do you have to do after this conversation?

Have a cup of strong coffee and work on the very exciting show we’re doing for London Collections: Men in June.

What would you like to be doing after this conversation?

Exactly what I am doing. I love my work.

Who would be your ideal dinner party guests ?

Tommy Nutter, The Queen Mother, Lady Gaga, Les Dawson and Greta Garbo. That would be interesting.

Images from the Spring/Summer 2012 Richard James Collection

www.richardjames.co.uk

So good they named it twice, the city not the Empire State Building.

For the second of our essential city guides, Home & Away, what other city could you choose, Norwich, Preston, Inverness. No, the city that never sleeps, the concrete jungle, where dreams are made of etc etc the city that has been the inspiration for a million and one songs & films. New York !

Top 5 Things to do

5) Do the open top Bus Tour you get to see so much in just a relatively short space of time.

4) Take a stroll round NOHO (North over Houston) and SOHO (South over Houston) and work your way down to Century 21 (c21stores.com), even if you hate shopping, you will find yourself buying something and the prices have to be seen to be believed.

3) Wear trainers, sorry sneakers and walk, you’ll recognise so much from years of watching Films and TV Series.

2) Visit the Moma (Museum of Modern Art – moma.org) on a Friday evening as it’s free or the Metropolitan Museum (metmuseum.org), free entry but a donation is HIGHLY recommended. Great to partake in a lil drinky on the roof over looking Central Park in the Summer.

1) While over at Central Park, hire a bike and take a ride round the park. Must see stops are the Roller blade disco. After laughing and dancing from the side lines, go and grab a drink, I recommend a Dirty Martini from the Boat House.

Eat – The Fat Radish (thefatradishnyc.com)

Sleep – The Standard(standardhotels.com/new-york-city/)

Drink – Freeman’s Alley(freemansrestaurant.com)

Ask a Local – Ben Kay

“Take a walk over the Bridges, think BMW, Brooklyn, Manhattan, Williamsberg. Brooklyn Bridge being my Fav”.

Today’s textual conversation is with Jonathan Lovett,Head of Design at Burton Menwear London. The Brand has been through somewhat of a change in image recently with the launch of such brands as Drift King and Montague Burton and with the website having a re-design to clean it up and make it easier to navigate. Captain Lovett has been at the helm of the SS Burton keeping it steady as it goes.

Before turning his hand at Burton, Jonathan oversaw menswear at Debenhams and his CV also includes Marks & Spencer and Tu at Sainsburys. He lives in East London and LOVES the east end way of life, his favourite cafe being Fix, on Curtain Road, as for its people watching ability and favourite shops in the area are Anthem on Calvert Street and HUB off Broadway market for divine inspiration.

If you could have invented anything what would it be ?

Invented……I don’t think I could invent anything apart from a good story however I would of love to have come up with the idea for the Bobble Hat, I love them right now and can’t stop wearing one with, literally, everything!

What inspires you ?

Its less about who more about whom, what, where and when. I am so inspired by what guys are wearing in London right now, it just seems to have come into its own again. Its part of my job to monitor trends and make them happen at the right time, London is where you see things emerging.

What’s your favourite piece of clothing ?

The Tee Shirt. I have loads of them, a drawer for casual, a drawer full for going out and work and a drawer for the gym and lounging around my flat in. I will spend anything from a fiver to a hundred quid on one if I really love it.

If you could only wear one brand/Designer for the rest of your life who would it be ?

That’s a tough one, I am not a big follower of any particular brand I just buy what looks good on me. However if I really had to it, or could afford to, would be Burberry because it offers such a wide selection from Porsum to Brit that I could still look cool when I am seventy in it.

Who is your style icon ?

Sorry I don’t have one and never will, I take a bit of inspiration from anything I like but ultimately I can style myself.

Can you tie a bow tie ? If yes, who taught you ?

Yes, you did Anthony when we worked together on a shoot!

What piece of style advise do you live by ?

Have a style and buy around it rather than going off on tangents, those garments never get worn.

What piece of clothing should everyman have in his wardrobe ?

A pair of vintage jeans, I cannot remember not having at least one pair in my wardrobe and they are a failsafe solution to anything apart from formal of course. I don’t do holes though, its too eighties and I was there first time around.

Have you ever bought a piece of clothing and regretted it ?

So many over the years especially when I was younger. The last real disaster was a Burberry tee shirt with gold brocade running down the front, I think I thought I looked hot in it but every time I put it on I felt like Adam Ant. If it’s a fashion piece now I always get a second opinion.

Who would do you ideal diner guest and why ?

It would be old friends that I worked with when I lived in Hong Kong, one’s president of Lane Crawford in Hong Kong, another Design Chief for Playboy in New York and couple of others doing interesting things. We used to have a riot and I bet we could still now if we all got around one table.

These are a few of my favourite things – Summer 2012 Burton