Not that kind of Brogue, this kind of Brogue

There isn’t a more versatile pair of shoes that you could wish to find in a stylish man’s wardrobe, than a pair of good quality Brogues, there are a perennial style that sits alongside a trainer. They are ease personified, equally at home being teamed with a pair of jeans as they are suited and booted, finishing off a formal outfit and they perfectly accompany a casual offering as a more formal look.

Now the heritage of this style of footwear is steeped in legend and has as many urban myths attached to it as it has differing variations in its design. Some say it comes from the Old Scottish word for shoes, Brogan or the other great Celts tribe, the Irish who used the word Bròg. But one thing is for sure, and was confirmed by a member of a Coupling Dynasty, Mr Stuart Bromley, yes of the Russell & Bromley empire, the honest to goodness Brogue started life under very humble beginnings. Originally designed as a country, outdoors shoe for farmers of the Celtic regions in the nineteenth century, the perforated patterns made for ideal circulation of water for the farmers and fishermen who were used to having to spend long periods in wet bog like land and the perforations prevented Trench foot and other like conditions, nice.

Today the Brogues has far more glamorous wearers with everyone from The Prince of Wales, Carey Grant and Peter Niven to Daniel Craig, Mr & Mrs Beckham and even the ever stylish Alexa Chung all professing to being fans.

So why is the Brogue so iconic ? We caught up with Tim Little Creative director and owner of the Great British curators of excellent examples of Brogues, Grenson, who told us, “They are the most iconic, cartoonists always draw brogues to signify smart men’s shoes. I think it’s a visual thing, they look totally unique. What started out as practical idea to let the water out of your shoes, became a decorative element that made the shoes look so different. They are also associated so strongly with British shoemaking as they came from here. Very few shoes are famous for their provenance.”

But which is better the Traditional or Contempoarary Brogue ? The Cobbler-in-Chief at another British Footwear institutions, Oliver Sweeney put it, “Whether it’s enlarging the punching design, working with untraditional colours and leathers, or simply making a brogue with a non-traditional construction, we’re all about challenging both ourselves and our customer’s perspectives of the perfect shoe. We don’t shy from using traditional shoe constructions, like the Goodyear welted construction, which ensures that each of our brogues are a hardwearing and incredibly comfortable wear, or from standard calf leathers and colours, we also like to experiment with new ways to make our shoes your first choice. It’s a part of what makes my job as Cobbler-in-Chief at Oliver Sweeney so exciting.”

And of course the Ultimate question when it comes to Brogues is it Black or Tan ? “Both if possible, if not get tan brogues and black derbys. I like my black shoes to be plain. On a tan brogue the punched holes show up better and create the look.” And you must remember, “Only wear them every other day, so get two pairs and rotate. Polish them in the evening and leave the polish on overnight. Buff them up in the morning.” Thank you Tim Little, a true fountain of knowledge.

BUDGET NOT AN ISSUE

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Or I have enough money and pairs of Brouges to splash out on a pair of Blue Suede ones like these  Hasketon’s from Oliver Sweeney

WATCHING THE PENNIES

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If you’re going to invest in a great quality pair of Brogues, don’t look any further than Grenson and these Dylan’s.

WHAT A BARGAIN

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You can’t say value for money more than these Dorest Limit from Clarks.

The Buyer’s Guide to Summer 2016 – James Lawrence – ASOS.com

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Talk about kicking the week off in style, Chico wawa ! For today’s post we have a bit of a twist on a classic favourite, instead of our Buyer’s guide to the wonderful season ahead of us. We sort the wise words of wisdom from an expert from another sector of this stylish industry, James Lawrence, Menswear Head of Design for the fashion internet Uber site Asos.

After graduating from Northumbria University and being awarded the Gold Award at Graduate Fashion Week. James began his career at German retailer, Closed. Then moved onto River Island as Menswear Design Manager. Finally then in 2012 moving to Asos where he was recently promoted to his current role as Head of Menswear Design.

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Oversized is the key silhouette of the season and isn’t going anywhere. This is a great oversized style as it’s introducing the V Neck which looks new and is such a nice change from the standard crew we’ve seen for seasons.

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The military trend has had a comeback but looks new by having a street wear edge. These drop crotch joggers are the perfect nod to the trend with the strap and military waistband details.

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Cross Body bags don’t just look great but are also practical! This neoprene sport luxe version again will work with many looks

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Baseball caps are now worn with many looks from streetwear to more tailored outfits so this clean and minimal suede style is perfect for any trend.

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Bombers are still the jacket shape of the season. this style ticks off many trends with suede being a key and khaki being the new black!

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After seasons of super skinny and even extreme super skinny denim, it’s great to see new wide anti- styles coming back in retro denim washes.

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Simple and classic, this goes with any look.

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If there’s one shirt that you have to buy for the summer, it has to be a 50’s style revere collar shirt or aka camp shirt, printed, washed, smart, casual..we’ve got it covered!

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White terrace trainers are huge for the summer and look great worn with denim, shorts and even tailoring! These look modern with the elastic gusset fastening which is a key trend across both smart and casual footwear.

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Wide leg trousers are one of the biggest shifts we’ve seen in menswear in a long while and look great worn casually with trainers and oversized outerwear.

Textual Conversation – Tim Bret Day

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After graduating from the London College of Printing Tim Bret Day began his career as a rock Photographer, but before long his head was turned by the bright lights and glamour of the Fashion industry. He honed his craft via commissions for iconic publications like The Face, Marie Claire and Elle. Through this his unique and distinctive style soon became, a much in demand, trademark. Before long, his individual and unconventional take on the world, caught the eye of countless brands and saw him shoot campaigns for the likes of Virgin Atlantic, Harvey Nichols, Mercedez, Nokia,Samsung and Sony. But it was his beautifully Risqué work with Agent Provocateur that stood out for all the right reasons.

Bret Day has had the pleasure of capturing moments with not only some of the beautiful women in the world such as Anna Friel, Grace Jones, Kylie Minogue, Helena Christensen and Erin O’Connor to some of the most iconic figures from recent popular culture including David Bowie, Mick Jagger, David Beckham and Bono.

imageIf you could have invented anything what would it be?

I wish I’d invented a cure for cancer.

If you had one day to live what would be your biggest regret ?

My biggest regret would be not spending enough time with my children.

What inspires you?

I’m inspired by travelling, light and The National Gallery.

Who has been your favourite subject/individual to photograph ?

Best person I’ve photographed……….Bowie

imageIf you could only wear one brand for the rest of your life who would it be?

Fav Designer for me would be Primark, cheap, disposable and comfortable. I do love clothes, but on others. McQueen, Balmain and DVF on my wife.

Who is your style icon?

Style Icon would have been Bowie or Bryan Ferry but in a deluded moment I would love to dress like Daniel Craig in Casino Royale….. just once.

What piece of clothing best describes you?

The piece of clothing that identifies me…. a North Face jacket with a small Liverpool FC badge on it. Stops me getting wet or cold.

Who would be your ideal diner guests?

Dinner guest would be a toss up between Grace Jones or Kenny Dalglish. I feel they have been wrongly branded and would love to know what they are really like. I photographed Grace and once we got over all the intimidation and surface stuff she was the most incredible warm person.

imageHow did you get into the industry, what was your big break?

My introduction to photography was a bit random but I found a collection of Paris Vogue (my dad was French) in my Dad’s office shortly after seeing The Eyes of Laura Mars at Slough Grenada. They were early covers of Janice Dickinson by Mike Rheinhardt. It was the editorial pictures inside that rocked me Newton, Guy Bourdin Jean Loup Sieff Dominique Issserman. I hung out with a bit of a bad crowd and this seemed like a way out.

My big break came at the end of assisting. I worked for someone who destroyed my confidence and after leaving I couldn’t get my act together. An editor at Honey Magazine who I had worked with dragged me out of my self pity and gave me some assignments and I never looked back. Thank you Pat, Kim and Judith.

If you could give your teenage self advice, what would it be?

Advice to teenage self (which I was given but never believed or did) Set a goal, aim high and think of a plan. My whole career has and still is completely random.

imageIf you could live anywhere where would it be?

I would live in Paris. Its always felt like home. My wife didn’t want to live there so we never did. I like Amsterdam as well.

Favourite hotel in the world?

My favourite hotel would be anywhere in the Maldives.

What would be the name of your autobiography?

My autobiography would be called ‘I’m sure there was something I meant to do”

What’s your Favourite movie ever?

Favourite movie, wow so many. Casino is up there as with all that genre Goodfellas, Pulp Fiction but visually I love Lawrence of Arabia, with Don’t Look Now, close behind.

imageIf you could Photograph anyone who would it be?

Who would I like to photograph………..someone who is in their “Golden Time” DeNiro when he did Taxi Driver, Janice Dickenson in 1975, Lee McQueen with Judy Blame styling.

What are you most excited about at the moment?

I’m most excited about the next project. I’m quite childish, I always think there is something round the corner that will be incredible.

What track would always get you on the dance floor?

Almost impossible to get me on a dance floor but I adore music but anything funky. Sly Stone, Primal Scream, The OJays, Kendrick Lamaar, Daft Punk.

Best piece of advise you’ve ever been given and by whom?

Best bit of advice “If you tell lies you’ll get caught, you’ve got that type of face” My mum.imageimage

Weapons of Moth Destruction – The LEMONGRASS TRADING COMPANY

imageDid you know we bought record amounts of cashmere in the UK this winter (like Burberry’s iconic cashmere scarf and Marks & Spencer’s great cashmere knitwear, with sales up 80% this winter). And then we had the warmest, wettest February ever on record (according to NASA), which just so happens to be creating the perfect conditions for a massive Moth Invasion. What’s the connection ? All winter those Moth eggs lay snug and safe in our dark, warm wardrobes, and now its spring their horrible larvae (those tiny caterpillar-like things that actually do the damage) are hatching out. Even now they are munching on their very favourite food, cashmere, at our expense!

As soon as spring is here it’s time to act, and we all need to act quickly. Clothes Moths will be active from April to November. Of course we all want effective deterrents that will save those costly fashion favourites, as I have found to my detriment. But remember, we’ll almost certainly be spraying in bedrooms and closets, breathing harsh – even toxic – chemicals even as we sleep, not a great idea. One of the ‘greenest’ experts fighting at the front line of the War on Moths is The Lemongrass Trading Company, which specialises in pure and natural plant-based insecticides containing no added chemicals, which also happen to smells pretty damn good too.

imageThe Lemongrass Trading Company, was set up in 2013, dedicated to making pure Natural products that are environmentally friendly. Plus all of there products are made on site right here in Dorset, UK. They are launching a new and revolutionary formula that targets not just the adult moths but also the actual larvae. It’s a new version of their best seller, the 100% Natural Lemongrass & Cedarwood Anti-Moth Spray. It is non-toxic and chemical free.

Stacy Marking, founder and CEO of The LEMONGRASS TRADING COMPANY Ltd, has given us her “Six Weapons of Moth Destruction”. The advice is really sound, and, though  a pain to do, it is really worth following. (I don’t always bother, and I always regret it! Like last year) which is specially tailored for Men’s Clothes:

  1. First, once you see a small beige adult moth fluttering out of your closet the damage may already have been done. Spray it or swat it – definitely seek to kill the moth before it can lay its eggs (up to 50 in a female’s lifetime.
  2. Clean out closet or drawer as thoroughly as you can.
  3. Wash and clean the garments.
  4. It’s not the Moth but the newly hatched Larva (that horrible little white-caterpillar like thing that munches those holes in cashmere sweaters or expensive suits. Moths love expensive fabrics, and go for any spot of dirt, trace of sweat, or even a splash of wine, on which the hatching larva can feed. That’s why the new unique spray has an added ingredient that targets the Larvae.
  5. For Men’s Suits – it is not good for these expensive fabrics to be dry cleaned too often (and dry cleaning doesn’t kill off the moths eggs), so try sponging them down lightly before you hang them up.
  6. For Cashmere and other Sweaters: put each one into a plastic bag, singly. If you can, put this in the freezer. But, even if not, if moth eggs do hatch, at least the larvae will only destroy one sweater at a time. Clear plastic is practical, as then you can see which is which.
    NOTE: THESE ACTIONS WILL WORK – AND THEY COST NOTHING!

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Crew Cut – American Crew

imageDuring the 1980’s and 90’s we saw many of the local barber shops our fathers and grandfathers frequented disappear and were replaced with salons catering primarily to women.
But times have changed, and men are back. And so to are the barber shops, OK referring to them as traditional maybe one step too far but the ethos they are found on and the new generation of business they are attracting is very similar to their original counterparts.

A brand that is synonymous with male grooming, but more importantly the masculine image of barber shops is American Crew. They offer a passionate commitment to men’s grooming, with their primary aim being to bring men into salons, provide them with a great new experience and show them new ways of incorporating style into their everyday lives.

They recognise the growing number of men that are concerned with their appearance and who want to look their best and an acknowledgement that this trend of image-conscious men spans all ages and backgrounds.

imageFounded in Chicago, by David Raccuglia back in 1994, he foresaw this trend or as he puts it, “A future where men would pay as much attention to their looks as women do, without loosing their masculinity. Which is why everything we do fosters authentic confidence—from our shapes and styles to our products and imagery.”

American Crew is more than just a lifestyle brand or a salon supplier. It’s a landmark in the history of men’s grooming, in the same way as Brylcream or Aramis. It has all of the male grooming interests in mind. The company provides, obviously,  shampoos, conditioners, hair gels, grooming creams and  shave oils, but also shave gels, post-shave cooling lotions and fragrances.

As a brand it’s never forgot its primary aim, even though it’s the leading salon brand created specifically for men, it gives men and their barbers the tools they need to create stylish, masculine looks.image