CLOTHES MAKE THE MAN

Words by Cameron Mclauchlan

Welcome to the first addition of our new regular “something for the weekend”, unleased on Fridays, the post will be comprised of our favourite picksavailable at that particular moment. Sometimes putting together collective outfits along with other worthy mentions from lifestyle, tech and events. The showcased products could be new releases or items which look oh so more attractive now they’ve hit the sale.

In addition we’ll give you a brief historical overview of each brand as-well as where to find the items instore/online. We hope that this can become not only a firm favourite of yours but an indicator as to current trends both high end and high street but a chance for you to get your brand knowledge up week by week.

1. Kapital Patchwork Bandana-print Denim Jacket, Exclusively at Mr.Porter.com

Named after

Japans

denim capital of Kojima, Kapital originally began in 80’s. Founded by Toshikiyo Hirata. Through his fondness of American denim whilst teaching in the US, Toshikiyo came back to Japan with a clear goal to produce his own denim.

Since opening his first factory in 84, Toshikiyo has built Kapital into an authentic body. Its Japanese heritage combined with western references are a common theme from collection to collection and something which has helped sustain the brands its test of time.

Maintaining its heritage, Toshikiyo’s son, Kiro is now the Head Designer for the brand after working for popular brand 45RPM for a number of years he made the jump to join his father. Speaking with Heddles:

‘Working together for over a decade, we’ve learned how to work as a pair with mutual trust and understanding ,It is like using chopsticks, once you’ve learned how to work together, you can do some pretty intricate things.”

The Jacket above boast’s a blend of paisley and bandana prints, a nod to the brands on-going relationship with western culture. The jacket fits small due to the tailored shaped, sizes are limited and already low online atMr.Porter!

Kapital is stocked in many brand-owned stores in Japan as well as Yoox and Net-a-Porter.

2. Converse One-Star OX, EndClothing.com  Pus free shipping. UK6-11 Still Available

The One-Star has seen a meteoric rise is the last few years. Previously most known as a skate/casual shoe. It has blown up to be a close rival on the chuck-tailor as a wardrobe essential.

This is due to the model laying the foundations for many lucrative iterations with many influential figures and brands putting their stamp on the silhouette.

The most hyped link up coming from  Tyler the Creator with his ‘Golf le Fleur’ line and has now formed an on-going creative partnership with Converse including apparel due to its commercial success.

Other successful collaborations include ; A$AP Nast, Yung Lean, Undefeated and Brain Dead. 

Converse was founded in 1908 by a Mr Marquis Mills. Originally called the ‘Converse Rubber Shoe Company’ it began producing

rubber soled shoes with a canvas upper and was mostly worn as a casual/sports shoe.

The brands initial rise to fame came around 1920 when they renamed their basketball shoe the ‘all-star’ which was swiftly followed by an endorsement deal with basketball player Charles ‘chuck’ Taylor.

Since this pivotal moment the Chuck-Taylor has become a household name seen on almost every fashion icon with the most notable loyal wearer being   Kurt Cobain.

In 2019 the Chuck-Taylor is the most recognisable silhouette around. Due to its simplicity much like the new kid on the block the one-star, it is easily adaptable to allow for collaborations such as commes des garçons or more recently J W Anderson.

The One-stars above complement the Kapital Jacket to allow for either a contrasting or blending lower pallet.

3. Nigo T-shirt, payhomageapparel.com

Continuing the un-intentional theme of Japans key fashion figures, who better to get as the final clothing item than the streetwear king himself Nigo.

Nigo is responsible for many streetwear projects but widely known for his creation of ‘A Bathing Ape’  more commonly knows as BAPE.

This T-shirt is from Homage Tee’s a brand born in the Summer 2016 with the pure purpose to celebrate our icons. It’s very cloak and dagger when it comes to the owners of the brand.

However in an interview back in 2017 with I-D mag, they stated:

”We don’t disclose who we are, as we want all the focus on the people we pay homage to, they deserve the shine we are just doing a service to our people. We’re Londoners born and bred.” A refreshing statement to hear indeed.

Homage Tee’s boast a large portfolio of Icon’s from all generations including  from Anna Wintour, David Attenborough, Louis Theroux, The Spice girls, Shabba Ranks, Princess Diana, Goldie and more.

Basically a shed load national treasures who I agree, do deserve as much celebration as humanly possible

Overall all of the T-shirts have a common theme, an entire custom print of the icon and other items of their time added for the full mise-en-scene.

The T-shirt’s greens matches nicely with the earthy tones of the needles track pants to further create cohesion for the full fit.

4. Awake NY sidebag, £65.00, doverstreetmarket.com

Awake New York, originally began in 2013 selling 6-panel caps. Serving as a side project personifying the spirit of New York, Owner Angelo Baque was the Brand Director for Supreme at the time of creation.

Since leaving supreme in 2017 Angelo has set up his own creative agency ‘Baque Creative’.

Since this date he has also been able to focus more on his own brand and now Awake NY has grown steadily in the last couple of years. Widening its product range to include outwear, Accessories and signature logo hoodies.

In addition to its upper level of quality clothing items, Awake’s logo is distinct and extremely pleasing on they eye something which I’m sure has contributed to its wide success.

The brand is now stocked globally, with stores Dover Street Market likely being your best bet. Other UK stockists include ; Patta, Good-Hood and The-Hip-Store.

Private White V.C. is a Great British is every way, shape and form. A true heritage range based on the on the everyday wardrobe of Private Jack White.  The VC part of the moniker is after the Victoria Cross which was awarded to Jack at the tender age of 20 for outstanding bravery under intense enemy fire during World War I. The clothing line has a subtle nod to Jack’s military legacy, with many items based on classic wartime pieces, updated with added functionality and detail for the modern man.

After returning from the killing fields of the Great War, he undertook an apprenticeship with a local outerwear factory, Cooper & Stollbrand, which is where to this very day his Great grandson, James Eden and his business partner Nick Ashley, yes as in Laura Ashley, his Mother, produce the collection inspired by the clothing White wore in his daily life, items he customised to suit his everyday activities .

All clothing is expertly constructed by hand in the Private White V.C. Factory in Manchester, where garments are designed and developed using only the finest regionally sourced fabrics, trims and materials.

Materials are sourced locally where possible with the majority of cloth being supplied from the mills in the surrounding area. These too have a wealth of history behind them.

Almost twelve months ago Eden pledged, quite publicly, that the brand were going to shy away from conventional retailing, embrace price transparency and staunchly continue to develop and grow their own factory nestled in the heart of Manchester. A bold declaration in the face of unprecedented levels of change and upheaval across technology, politics and consumer behaviour.

Since May 2018, the business is thriving and they have enjoyed record sales, shipped to over 50 countries and last month was their best-ever April (up almost 700% on the previous year).

This season the luxury brand have produced a collaborative collection they are very proud of. Crafted in their very own Manchester Factory by their highly skilled team this collection is created with fabric develop in partnership with Loro Piana, the universally revered cloth and cashmere specialist synonymous with luxury and unrivalled quality and performance. A match made in sartorial heaven. Each piece in the collection is a highly limited edition of 50.

There are moments in life that are filled with light, when everything seems possible. When letting yourself go as you step into nature is as easy as breathing. These magically moments have tried to be captured by the Blu Mediterraneo fragrances, each one inspired by the unique landscapes of the Italian Mediterranean – like Cipresso di Toscana. Acqua di Parma’s new fragrance embodies all the vitality of a walk in the beautiful Tuscan countryside, where the majestic Cypress tree, with its aromatic, balsamic, energy-giving scent, a tree so symbolic of the Tuscan landscape.

Today, there are cypress trees all over Tuscany: every street corner, every church, every garden, every hilltop, is graced by the presence of this centuries-old tree. Rolling hills bathed in sunlight, woods and farms, pretty villages scattered among the hilltops: this fragrance takes its inspiration from these landmark features that you may spot on a walk along the paths of Tuscany’s nature.

The fragrance opens with refreshing star anise and elemi, illuminated by sparkling notes of orange and petit grain. A vivaciousness that introduces an aromatic heart of sage and lavender, while woody balsamic base notes of cypress and pine evoke the silence of nature and a gratifying sense of wellbeing.

Unless you’ve been living under a rock for the last 18 months, you must know something about Kem Cetinay, whether it’s Love Island, presenting from behind the scenes of Dancing on Ice or This Morning to amassing over 2.7 million followers over his social media accounts right the way to his madcap adventure series with his partner in crime Chris Hughes. However, there is far more to Mr Cetinay than his TV persona. 

Not only is Kem is passionate about barbering and has launched a hit online series ‘Kem Cuts’, where he gives expert trims to some of the country’s most popular TV stars, including Philip Schofield, Who Dare’s Win’s Ant Middleton and Joel Dommett.

As an open book, he has been honest about his history of suffering with anxiety, and through his work with Childline he is proud to be named their first Mental Health Campaigner, working closely with the young people they support and plans to continue to open up the conversation around mental health through a school tour in 2019.

Now the latest chapter in his adventure sees him team up with one of the biggest success stories in retail of this generation. May sees Kem launch and exclusive collection with none other than High Street Giant, Primark. 

Fashion meets affordability with the Primark Man x Kem 16-piece collection. From bold patterned shirts and sunglasses to sliders and Kem’s signature short shorts, the prices range from just £2 – £9 offering great quality at a great price.

Speaking about the collection, Kem says, “I’m so excited to have the chance to work with Primark, I have been going into the stores with my family since I was a young boy so to join this family orientated brand is a dream come true.”

When you walk into a barbershop for the first time, a good barber will spend a little time working you out. What are you wearing, how old are you, how thick is your hair, what attitude do you have? All of these will help inform what sort of cut you might want. But you can help too.

1) It’s ok to say you want a cut like a certain actor, singer or celebrity. It helps the barber know what you’re going for and makes their life easier but …

2) Be realistic. We’d all like to look like Steve McQueen but few of us do. Thinning hair, head shape, curly or straight hair may make certain looks impossible. Also, once you’re out of your 20s, some cuts just look daft (they look daft in your 20s too, you can just get away with them better then).

3) Barbers gauge your style on your look. Wearing a business suit? You may want a more work-friendly cut. So it can be good to come dressed in what you wear most of the time. Tell your barber your job, your lifestyle, your hobbies and interests – it can help define what your hair should look like.

4) You should judge your barber too. If the shop is charging you for a decent haircut, the barber should not pull out clippers before scissors (unless you want certain, specific looks). You get what you pay for should work both ways.

5) Get your hair cut every four weeks for shorter hair, every five to six for longer hair.

6) Remember, no barber wants to send you out of the shop with a bad haircut – it will make you unlikely to come back, and worse for the barber, it’s a terrible advert for the shop. Tell your barber if you’re not happy