As you all know each season during LC:M we select a leading designer from the London Schedule who has caught our eye and impressed us. This season is no exception and he’s a relative new comer to what can only be classed as one of the oldest & most respected names that grace Savile Row, with what has to be THE most envious of postal addresses, 1 Savile Row.

Jason Basmajian, confidently took over the reins of Gieves & Hawkes mid last year. He has over two decades’ experience which includes Director of Menswear at Calvin Klein and Donna Karan in New York. Additional to this he became Creative Director of ST Dupont in Paris. Subsequently he joined Brioni as Artistic Director. Whilst at Brioni he spearheaded the company’s modernisation and consolidation as one of the leading global luxury brands.

As for Gieves & Hawkes, it was created in the 20th century from the amalgamation of two long-established private tailoring firms founded in the 18th century – Gieves (founded 1785) and Hawkes (founded 1771). Currently the holder of three Royal Warrants, yes that’s THREE, as suppliers to HM The Queen, HRH Prince Philip the Duke of Edinburgh and HRH Prince Charles the Prince of Wales.

For Spring of this year Gieves & Hawkes departs Savile Row well attired for a long summer holiday with stops planned in Amalfi, Nairobi, Barbados and Shanghai before returning to London. The spirit of the collection is inspired by the traditions of bespoke but it is contemporary in its fresh mix of sartorial, military and sportswear styling. Anyway, that’s quite enough of the history and onto the main feature;

If you could have invented anything what would it be ?

Concorde – I love to travel fast

If you had one day to live what would be your biggest regret ?

My only regret would be having only 1 day

What would be the one piece of clothing you would rescue from your home in the event of a fire ?

I would save nothing – it would be fun to start over

What inspires you ?

Authenticity, creativity, intelligence, passion inspire in people inspire me

If you could only wear one brand/Designer for the rest of your life who would it be ?

Honestly, it would be a combination of my own work from ST Dupont, Brioni, and Gieves and Hawkes

Who is your style icon ?

My style icons are anyone who are not afraid to express themselves through their own individual style. I see them everyday all around me were ever I go

Tell us something no one else knows ?

I would love to be a professional chef in another life

What piece of style advise do you live by ?

Be yourself and dress by your own codes- don’t try too hard

What piece of clothing would you relegate to Room 101 ?

The track suit to room 101 !

How did you get into the industry, what was your big break ?

An internship at Giorgio Armani

In your words, describe the collection ?

Elegant, textural, tailored, rich, Savile row revisited, British twist

If you could give your teenage self advice, what would it be ?

Don’t rush growing up- enjoy the moment

Gieves & Hawkes Spring 2014

Morning Style seekers, wherever you may arise, the subject of today’s textual conversation is a lady who has very much cut a dash in the male obsessing world of menswear. After graduating from, what was, Nottingham Poly with a first Class degree in Fashion & Textiles (Ohhhh Clever clogs), and surely whats stated as her graduation year on her biog, must clearly be a typo. Frances Walker was not only instrumental in devising and set up Nicole Farhi Menswear, as sole designer in 1988 having joined Nicole Farhi upon leaving university. She also played a key role in formulated the unique silhouette which became synonymous with the uniquely iconic designer.

Following this, Walker joined Jigsaw in February 2011 to set up and relaunch Jigsaw Menswear after it’s hiatus, the first incarnation having been a hugely respected and successful brand which operated from 1993-1999.  The Spring Summer 13 collection launched into 20 Jigsaw stores, a standalone Menswear store and of course online. She continues to be very hands-on as well as directing the design across all areas of the collection and driving the brand from strength to strength.

Frances describes her inspiration for the Autumn 2013 collection as “I always start off with colour. The tonal approach of Mark Rothko and Sean Scully, with their soft colour blocking, led to this idea of working patchwork into the collection in shades of navy, seaweed, charcoal, grey, cranberry and a dark rusty colour we’ve named ‘squirrel’.”

The blurry shapes of the artists’ paintings translate effortlessly into soft yarns such as Alpaca in the knitwear, washed Harris Tweed made in Britain, lush velvets and Jigsaw Menswear’s signature tartans, which have been specially developed with Lochcarron of Scotland to complement the collection’s somber palette.

The theme is expertly variegated textures and fabrics – the idea is that you can layer the different textures, tone-on-tone to create our Autumn/Winter look. With her key pieces within the collection being the wool bomber jacket, the Double breasted shawl collar merino knitted jacket, the wool gingham Abraham Moon(the prestigious British Cloth factory) suit, the harris tweed coat, the patchwork tweed stitch roll knit sweater, the patchwork and tartan tailored trousers, the Teddy bear coat (a shawl collar pea coat).

If you had one day to live what would be your biggest regret ?

That it was my last day!! Still so much I want to do/experience. This may sound dull but as a mum… it would be not seeing my kids (both teenagers) grow up: they are so so fabulous and my finest achievement by far!

If you could have invented anything what would it be ?

The zip…. the printing press… a fine-liner drawing pen!

What would be the one piece of clothing you would rescue from your home in the event of a fire ?

My first piece of Comme des garçons: a fab long black velvet/silk dress circa 1994 I reckon. it was a gift and by far and away my most expensive piece of clothing ever as it was full price!

What inspires you ?

Wow!…so many things. At the moment, I am loving the portrait paintings of the American painter, Alice Neel particularly the series she did of men. Antique clothing has always been a source of inspiration for me; specifically the love, care and attention with which it was not only made, but also the beautiful repairs and patching that kept it going. People you see or meet who are comfortable in their skin, whose style is effortlessly handsome and at the same time individual. people who don’t take themselves too seriously. I worked with Nicole Farhi for years; she had the most wonderful personal style she never looked like she tried to hard… I love things which are a bit off… not quite right

If you could only wear one brand/Designer for the rest of your life who would it be ?

Of course I wear a lot of JIGSAW and the pieces complement my life style, but if I was thinking international stage Comme des garçons: I adore the fabrics and finishes, the basics/core styles evolve but the underlying fit stays the same and the seasonal pieces are always full-on and creative in a way which truly brightens up your life. I love the pieces which make you gasp and wonder where the ideas came from… the imperfect perfection (wabi sabi!) of them.

Who is your muse and why ?

It changes, Lucien Freud, is often on the mood board along with Steve McQueen. Nick Wooster always looks pretty good too!

Tell us something no one else knows ?

As an intern at Next in about 1986, I was given some letraset (cant recall more than a couple of computers in the graphics dept at Next at that time!)and asked to come up with some labelling ideas. They used one of the logos I designed for many of their Mens garments (I remember the underwear in particular!) and their company lorries for years to come. the label read Pinooers in British Menswear I remember!!!Sir Paul Smith bought me my first Marguerita at a fabulous bar (wish I could remember the name!) in NYC in 1986 the year he opened his first american store on Fifth Avenue… I was in NY with 3 other students after winning a competition Paul had set across 4 arts courses for my year group at Nottingham Poly. Paul kept hold of my passport as I looked about 12. It was the most amazing trip and Paul was wonderful to us all and totally infectious to be around! I had a trolley race with him a few years later in baggage reclaim at Heathrow after bumping into him collecting his bags after a trip. I just remember him saying race ya and that was it, he was off ! cant remember who won!!!

What piece of clothing should everyman have in his wardrobe ?

A great pair of Jeans (and an expensive pair of shoes)

What piece of clothing would you relegate to Room 101 ?

Flares

What do you have to do after this conversation ?

Crack on with designing some knitwear for AW14

What would you like to be doing after this conversation ?

Flying off to NYC

JIGSAW MENSWEAR AUTUMN 2013 COLLECTION

Way back in January of this year, during London Collections:MEN, we had an invite to come along and have a look at a best of British range, yeah OK, be a bit of a break from the treadmill of show after show in the pouring, freezing rain. Yet this invite was from no fashion designer, or cutting edge East London label, no, but from a very bastion of Britishness a quintessential National Treasure, none other then MARKS & SPENCER ! Yep, you’re not mistaken and any of you more loyal readers will note what followed, was yours truly falling in love with a Marks & Spencer product range more then their Christmas Sandwich selection !

Even M&S had underestimated their pulling power, for as we turned up shaking off the excess of the wintery showers, so did Supermodels David Gandy & future face of the collection Oliver Cheshire. Fashion Director of the Sunday Times STYLE Richard Grey, Shortlist’s Style Director, Adrian Clark, British GQ’s Editor, Dylan Jones and a plethora of style press big shots.

The collection is a celebration of the best in British design and manufacture, using some of the industry’s best cloths, suppliers and age old knowledge to produce a collection which is completely contemporary all the whilst drawing on inspiration from stylistic British icons.

The Man behind this concept is Tony O’Connor(see below), the brand’s Head of Design for menswear, who joined the company in 2008 bringing with him a wealth of experience and a strong focus on design and brand clarity and who we caught up with to find out a little bit more about the collection and his good self.

In your words, describe the collection ?

The Best of British collection is an edit of timeless pieces – I would describe them as confident and masculine, constructed in contemporary shapes with an emphasis on traditional British craftsmanship and quality

What was the inspiration for it ?

The M&S archive in Leeds was a key reference point for the collection. We were able to look back at traditional British styles that M&S has made through the decades, and the craftsmanship that went into British made items, to produce an updated collection that not only shows an appreciation for the technical skill involved, but also has a timeless essence that remains relevant today

What are the key pieces in it

The double breasted suits and coats are a key stand out shape for the collection

If you could collaborate with one brand (Who you currently aren’t) who would it be and why ?

Quite honestly, it’s been really exciting working with the British suppliers for this collection, such as Cheshire Bespoke for suits and Cheaney’s for shoes

If you could give your teenage self advice, what would it be ?

Start thinking about what you want to do as a career, explore it and do it! I got into art and photography at an early age, which was a useful start to my career

How did you get into the industry, what was your big break ?

I got a taste for menswear, after getting a Saturday job at a clothing store in Newcastle. Working here helped me decide what to do creatively

What piece of clothing best describes you ?

The formal jacket and the pocket square

What piece of clothing would you relegate to Room 101 ?

Dungarees

What piece of clothing should everyman have in his wardrobe ?

A tuxedo for special occasions

What piece of style advise do you live by ?

Choose British made shoes

Who is your style icon ? Why ?

As young men, Hugh Hefner and Oliver Reed. They had a sexy masculine style.

If you could only wear one brand/Designer for the rest of your life who would it be ? Why ?

Working on a collection born in Britain and with British suppliers has been a lifelong ambition of mine, so it would have to be this brand!

The Best of British collection hits Marks & Spencer Store and website from 10th October.

The subject of today’s Textual conversation, Bill Amberg, had a career epiphany whilst visiting a relative in Australia, who introduced him to an inspirational mentor and leather worker, Gay Wilson, who offered him an apprenticeship in her studio making sculpture and moulded body pieces, jockey’s shoes, wallets and belts, in Adelaide. A passion for craftsmanship reignites and develops as a respect for leather, the rest they say is history.

In 1984 Bill receives his first big break when department store, Liberty, ask him to create a line of bags for them in the now trademark Bill Amberg brown English saddle leather, and they literally fly off the shelve. Two years later Sir Paul Smith commissions Amberg to create a line of bags to be sold in Paul Smith stores under Bills own name, a collaboration that continues for nearly a decade, which is then followed by Donna Karan and Romeo Gigli. In fact, his designs are seen as soooo classic that his Rocket bag now sits as a design classic in the V&A design museum in London.

For Autumn13 Bill Amberg has gone back to his roots with a focused collection, showcasing the skills inherent in UK manufacturing. Bill Amberg staples such as the Rocket and Medicine bags, plus soft classics remain at the core of the collection and new styles accent these in exquisite leathers and tans.

Additionally, for this season, Bill has worked with Elvis & Kresse, the lifestyle accessories brand focused on reimagining seemingly useless waste into practical luxury items, on the “Tooley” tote bag named after the street where London’s fire brigade was founded. The Tooley tote will be available in stores and online from November 2013; with Elvis & Kresse donating 50% of the profits from their fire hose range to the Fire Fighters Charity. The innovative and pioneering Fire-Hose “Tooley ” Tote bag is made from de-commissioned British fire brigade hoses which, after a distinguished career fighting fires and saving lives, were otherwise destined for landfill.

Anyway, lets hear what Bill has to say;

If you could have invented anything what would it be ?

The wheel – I would love to of been around in the early in days dragging your beasts around and then wow, the revelation of the wheel.

If you had one day to live what would be your biggest regret ?

No regrets – It is important to keep looking forward

What would be the one piece of clothing you would rescue from your home in the event of a fire ?

My glasses – they are the wayfarer design created by Shuron.

If you could only wear one brand/Designer for the rest of your life who would it be ?

I would choose a bespoke tailor made saville row designer, the clothes would just be so comfortable.

Who is your style icon ?

Peter Blake… He only ever wore one thing and looked perfectly happy and relaxed

Tell us something no one else knows ?

I have just got in to beekeeping which is really interesting and a funny fact for you is that bees have hairs on their eyes!

Can you tie a bow tie ? If yes, who taught you ?

Yes… my father

What piece of style advise do you live by ?

Wear comfortable clothes – don’t take yourself too seriously

What piece of clothing should everyman have in his wardrobe ?

A good selection of T-shirts. Ones that fit every mood that you have for instance – funny, sad, girly… whatever fits the mood perfectly..

Have you ever bought a piece of clothing and regretted it ?

At 14 I bought an arctic white crinkly roll neck jumper and it was so bad I was ridiculed by my entire family and so I only wore it once. I have never worn synthetic fabrics since.

Who would do you ideal diner guests and why ?

Katherine Hepburn this woman was very stylish, well read, funny good party girl game on for anything.

What is you most memorable moment?

Tomorrow! You have got to keep looking forward always.

ICONIC BILL AMBERG BAGS

The Medicine Bag

The Rocket Bag

The Truffle Hunter

Craig Nicholas Tate, whilst studying for a BA Honours degree in Fashion and Textile in London established Nicholas Deakins in 1991. An initial collection of only four styles was then made in England by, the historic Northampton based, W.J Brookes to exploit a niche in the market and the brand quickly became a favourite with the sharply dressed ravers of legendary nightclubs of the time including the Hacienda, Cream and Renaissance plus the well turned out residents of football terraces around the country, this earning a loyal and dedicated fashion savvy following.

Now based in Tate’s hometown of Leeds, the Nicholas Deakins collection includes a full line of clothing and footwear, with the brand’s flagship store situated in the city’s uber trendy shopping location The Victorian Quarters. Nicholas Deakins continues to evolve, introducing new materials and production methods, whilst holding true to the classic British styles on which the brand has built its name upon. Recently we’ve seen collaborations with British Stalwart brands Harris Tweed and British Millerain, plus with the likes of The View, Devlin and Rizzle Kicks all fans of the brand, not bad for starting as a sideline while your studying, hey Mr Tate ? Anyway enough of me what has the man himself got to say ?

If you could collaborate with one brand (Who you currently aren’t) who would it be and why?

New Balance, a market leader who is immensely proud of its British heritage and continues to have a manufacturing base here in the UK.

If you could live anywhere where would it be & Why?

Easy, New York ! Such a creative, dynamic city with fantastic restaurants, bars and museums. You can lose yourself in the different neighbourhoods as each one offers a completely different vibe to the next. It also has 4 distinct seasons a year with extreme variations of hot and cold.

If you could give your teenage self advice, what would it be?

Listen to your elders!

How did you get into the industry, what was your big break?

The Nicholas Deakins business was started in the recession of 1991 during the summer holidays whilst studying a BA Honours in Fashion and Textile. I guess the big break was selling the first four designs into Strand (Leeds), Life (Manchester) and Psyche (Middlesborough) which just about launched the business overnight.

What track would always get you on the dance floor?

Playing with Knives – Bizarre Inc, brings back those Hacienda memories, happy days!

What piece of clothing best describes you?

A slim fitting three piece suit in navy blue.

What piece of clothing would you relegate to Room 101?

Juicy Couture tracksuits.

Have you ever bought a piece of clothing and regretted it? If so what & why?

Yes, far too often I’m afraid which is the disadvantage of being an impulse buyer – sometime it comes off and sometime it doesn’t! I cant remember a specific piece but do try to avoid being suckered into a purchase just because of a massive discount, remember there’s a reason it’s in the sale!

Who is your style icon? Why?

Steve McQueen, have a look at some of his photos…no further explanation required.

If you could only wear one brand/Designer (other then your own) for the rest of your life who would it be? Why?

Ralph Lauren, has everything you need.