Textual Conversation Archives - Page 10 of 11

Do you recognise this international man of mystery ? The likelihood is probably no, has he affected the way or what you purchase when it comes to Clothes and style, the answer in all honesty is probably yes ! This man to your left is Adrian Clark the Style Director of Shortlist and Editor of the increasing essential style biannual MODE. Every Thursday, in the UK commuters traveling from A to B, thats cities from Aberdeen to Brighton read the phenomena that is Shortlist, effecting and educating men in equal measure. What this man puts onto his style pages sells whether that be the latest fragrance, luggage, suit, t-shirt, jeans or watch. If he covers it the retailer has a spike in sales.

Now, MODE, about to publish its fourth issue, with the theme of “THE NEW MASCULINE”, which in Clark’s own words states, “Autumn/Winter 2012 has turned a very masculine corner in fashion, with rugged replacing, preppy and manly reigning over elegance.” The issue, is literally crammed, it includes a UK Exclusive interview with Tom Ford, penned by Clark himself, an insight into what goes into an IWC watch, a debate into sexual equality in mens’ vs women’s fashion, 50 trend led items you need this Autumn and a cover shoot with 80’s male supermodel, Werner Schreyer, don’t worry you’ll recognise his face, see below.

Now I can hear you from here, surely this man doesn’t have the time to answer the questions of Clothes-make-the-man.com ? You’d be surely wrong, Adrian Clark over to you ! –

If you could have invented anything what would it be?

Coca Cola

What would be the one piece of clothing you would rescue from your home in the event of a fire?

Probably my Tom Ford ‘Ranger’ coat in a blue and grey lumberjack check. It’s an amazing piece, and I love the fact that it is a luxe spin on a rugged outdoor functional basic. It has a 1950’s feel about it (the kind of coat you could imagine Don Draper wearing on vacation while driving a wood paneled station wagon in the Colorado) – it was actually promised to Aaron Johnson, but I saw it on the rails in their office and convinced them I would give it a better home.

What inspires you?

It’s a process that has no beginning or end and no boundaries so that is a difficult question to answer. It’s everything and nothing in reality. I pick up ideas subliminally without looking and somehow my brain processes them and they turn into ideas. Creativity, confidence and integrity inspire me greatly, such as in the work of a great designer who refuses to compromise such as Azzedine Alaia or a fashion maverick like Diana Vreeland.

If you could only wear one brand/Designer for the rest of your life who would it be? Why?

Another tricky one, as there is so many different facets to my life! In fact when I pack to go away I usually pack for 3 different Adrian Clark’s who all have very different tastes and personalities. There is the Adrian Clark who would dress head-to-toe in Prada, which taps into my more classic side, The Adrian Clark who would happily wear Dries Van Noten from here to eternity as it is on-trend but never stupid and then there is the Dsquared2 Adrian Clark who is usually looking for trouble

Who is your style icon? Why?

Burt Reynolds. An obvious one for me as I am obsessed with the 1970’s and obsessed with the ideal of men as sex symbols and beacons of masculinity. Also NOBODY could or still can work a double denim look like he could.

What piece of style advice do you live by?

Know your body shape and wear clothes that work with that and not against it! My ever changing body shape (I yo-yo between going to the gym 5-days a week to slob, and find what I dress like changes with the ever evolving body image.

What piece of clothing should everyman have in his wardrobe?

A pair of motorcycle boots, they are the most empowering item of clothing, having the same effect women achieve in a pair of Laboutin heels. They give you confidence.

Have you ever bought a piece of clothing and regretted it? If so what & why?

I only ever regret buying stuff from the high street. I have a vast collection of clothes and essentially whatever I buy from the high street (thinking I may want it) I will probably already have another much better designer example of it in my wardrobe that does the same job… but much better!

What piece of clothing would you relegate to Room 101?

This is the easiest question for me to answer… ANY accessory for men (other than sneakers which is my one exception to this rule) that are WHITE! Particularly white belts, they are so Peter Andre.

Who would be your ideal dinner guests and why?

Living or dead? If I can pull from history it would be Diana Vreeland, Halston and Diana Ross…. I’m sure you can see a pattern emerging there! Someone once asked me if you could teleport back to any place at any time in history, when and where would it be? I of course chose Studio 54, New Years Eve 1977.

How did you get into the industry, what was your big break?

After leaving Central Saint Martins I was introduced to the fashion director of The Independent newspaper who liked my work and two days out of college immediately sent me on an assignment to cover the Paris Haute Couture – giving me a double page in the broadsheet as a blank canvas. I did a kind of sketchbook from the shows, reviews, comments, illustrations etc – and the week after it was out on the streets my phone never stopped ringing with offers from the likes of The Times, The Observer, The Face etc. I was very lucky to be the right person in the right place at the right time, without much of an uphill struggle that so many talented people unfairly have to face today.

MODE is available on this Tuesday Morning Nationwide and Monday evening in London

Shortlist.com/Mode

Ben Dickens and someone called Robbie Williams, I think, at the recent launch of Farrell at Selfridges. The range is available at Selfridges London, Manchester & Birmingham.

Ben Dickens was the Design Director at Burberry for four years, working across all of the men’s product categories. Due to his career successes he was most recently charged with heading up Burberry Prorsum and the London collection working closely with the incredibly talented, Christopher Bailey. Before this, Ben cut his design teeth working along another iconic Brit Designer John Richmond in Milan.

In November 2011, he left the Burberry check behind him and join a fledging brand called Farrell, devised by someone called Robert Peter Williams, or as you my know him the sometime member of a band called Take that and has a couple of awards including Brits, MTV awards and Ivor Novellos to his name, Robbie Williams.

At the time of Dickens joining Farrell, William said, ‘A breath of fresh air is floating down the corridors of Farrell. The beautiful Ben Dickens has arrived, bringing his optimism, passion and vision to my Granddad’s clothing line. It’s beautiful to be at the start and see an open road in front of us. The more we talk, the more ideas we throw around – it’s exciting. It’s very similar to making an album, after all that’s what an album? It’s an idea. What is art? It’s an idea, as are clothes. We are at the tip of an iceberg, and it is an iceberg. Come join us, we are many.’

How the AW12 collection appears on the shop floor in Selfridges

Farrell, is inspired by Robbie Williams grandfather, Jack Farrell or Jack the Giant Killer, as Williams refers to him, “My grandfather, Jack Farrell – Jack the Giant Killer – was a huge man, built like an Irish navvy, fought in the Second World War, lived on a council estate… He was the first real male figure in my life – he was an honest man, he taught me to box, I was surrounded by women and he worried that I was going to be a sissy. The integrity of his influence runs throughout this collection.”

He claims that Jack was a notable dresser and a strong man who had great integrity, honesty, good manners and a sense of humour. It is these qualities that form the foundation of Farrell and are now ingrained into the brand ethos, from the design process to the shop floor. Farrell promises to deliver classic wardrobe staples suitable for a night in, an afternoon at the footie or a night out. ‘Wear it in, Wear it out’is Farrell’s motto. Every piece within the Farrell collection is designed to become a longstanding part of a man’s wardrobe, growing and evolving with the wearer over time. Pieces such as the iconic Pea coat and Harrington signify Farrell’s dedication to British style and the principles of men being men.

Ben defines the Farrell man: “This is a brand for every guy – whether you’re going to the pub, taking your missis to the shops, going out with the lads. They’re pieces which will last you for years.”

Now, learn a little more about this man, the range and the man behind it and Ben Dickens answers a couple of questions for Clothes-make-the-man.com –

In your words describe the collection:

We wanted to create a wardrobe of perfected gent’s classic pieces and at a price that most guys could afford. Clothes with honesty, integrity and built to last; future hand-me-downs.

What was the inspiration for it?

The collection is a tribute to Jack Farrell, Robbie’s grandfather, and all the men of his generation; a time when men where men, acted as gentlemen and took pride in themselves and their appearance. For this season the collection took a more military slant. We worked with a beautiful old image from WW1 of the Christmas amnesty football match. It has a sentimental as well as a stylistic value to us.

What are the key pieces in it?

The collection is lead by the coats and outerwear. Within that particular pieces of note are the Great coat, the Military Control Trench and Peacoat. They are the kind of piece that when a fella puts them on they become his suit of armor to face the world.

What piece of clothing would you relegate to Room 101?

Diamante encrusted t-shirts, in fact any ‘bling’ encrusted clothes for men.

If you could give your teenage self advice, what would it be?

Under no circumstance attempt to wear – a zebra print shirt, cornflour blue twin set, white fur coat, red/blu/yellow ski salopettes, nail varnish, bleach-blonde hair and black patent buffalo boots in the same outfit.

What piece of clothing should everyman have in his wardrobe?

A great classic raincoat.

What piece of style advise do you live by?

‘Socks before, or after trousers but never socks before pants. Make’s a man look scary, like a chicken…’ – Mark from Peepshow 2003

If you could wear one brand/designer for the rest of your life, who would it be and why?

Farrell… So far – it’s the epitome of everything I want to wear.

What would be the one piece of clothing you would rescue from your home in the event of a fire?

My lucky undies (and perhaps my vintage 1941 Belstaff dispatch coat).

If you could have invented anything what would it be?

The Aston Martin, in particular the DB5.

Who is your style icon and why?

It’s a toss up between Steve McQueen and Harold Steptoe. Steve Mcqueen because he is cool as hell. Harold Steptoe because he’s literally thrown together, but always looks the epitome of disheveled elegance.

Farrell.com

When I first started on this blog adventure and I came up with the idea of textual conversations, one of the first people on the list was Oliver Spencer, since its launch in 2002, I’d admired his clothes, the cut, the design and overall feel of the stores and the brand, plus over the years as I got to know him from meeting him at various Fashion weeks, events and the occasional pint, I discovered what a genuine and decent fella Oliver is.

Now whats interesting to know is with no formal training Oliver founded the label as a reaction to the merging boundaries between mainstream and fashion collections, bridging the gap between dress-up and dress-down. The label mixes quintessential English style with quirky flourishes and attention to detail.His signature label sits alongside his involvement with Favourbrook, the label he founded in 1990, and which now has three stores on Jermyn Street, London, catering for those seeking an eclectic take on modern sophistication.

Of his eponymous collection, Oliver admits, “I wanted to create clothes that bridge the gap between workwear and fashion, mainstream and utility.” In doing so he developed a sophisticated and intelligent approach, where detail is vital in each and every garment. Detachable collars, innovative linings, hidden pockets and quirky accessories are all stamped by Spencer’s craftsmanship and tailoring skills. As he says, his collections are, “All about culture, not about cult.” Notably Oliver made the decision to aim the designs at a more grown-up clientele, who would judge the designs on merit alone, and in spite of maintaining high production and finishes, the clothes retain a handmade sensibility. However, in turn his skills have caught the attentions of the Great British high Street and has seen him work with, amongst others Selfridges, TopMan & Asos on exclusive collaborations. Plus he counts Paul Waller, Mad Men’s Don Draper, sorry Jon Hamm and Benicio Del Toro as ardent clients.

Anyway, enough of me going on with myself lets see what he’s got to say for himself;

In your own words what is you’re A/W12 collection about & What’s your favourite piece in the collection ?

A Feeling of 1970’s Arthouse and the impeccable style of a youthful Lucian Freud.

The two tone bomber is my favourite.

If you could have invented anything what would it be ?

The iphone.

What’s your favourite piece of clothing ?

KWay pack a mack.

Who is your style icon ?

Lucian Freud, because he’s eclectic and artistic.

Tell us something no one else knows ?

Prada is going to open on Shoreditch High Street.

Can you tie a bow tie ? If yes, who taught you?

The unique Lucian Freud

Yes, Self taught.

What piece of clothing should everyman have in his wardrobe ?

A suit, one good suit.

Have you ever bought a piece of clothing and regretted it ?

Yes, A Yohji Yamamoto shirt, it was too big and made me look like a chef.

What do you have to do after this conversation?

Go and look at the venue for our forthcoming show.

What would you like to be doing after this conversation ?

Going to a restaurant.

What track would always get you on the dance floor?

Anything by Arcade Fire.

oliverspencer.co.uk

Liberty – There aren’t many other stores that can boast shopping in such a beautiful environment

Many things are described as a British institution, everything from Bruce Forsyth to Eton Mess have at some time been cited as one. However one such institution that is undoubtably British through and through, as the afternoon teas they serve in their café is, Liberty. Nonetheless, dear reader, there is something distinctly Un-British at the heart of its corridors of power…..

Since, joining as buying director, from luxury department store Bergdorf Goodman, Ed Burstell was promoted to Managing Director in June 2010 and is now responsible for overseeing all buying functions and marketing at Liberty. The larger then life and surprisingly funny New Yorker, has blown off all trace of cobwebs from the traditional department store and transported Liberty well and truly into the 21st Century and placed it back on the international fashion map as a shopping destination for not only the local consumer but the cosmopolitan tourist to boot. Burstell, has been highly instrumental in the recent launch of the new Liberty Westfield Stratford City store, just in time for the all important Olympics. In this period Liberty has collaborated with such brands as Nike, Barbour & even the international value retailer Target, taking full advantage of the legendary floral print. There is no possible doubt that Burstell has taken Britain to his heart, but at the same time it’s very clear the UK and Liberty have adopted Ed too. Now a man this busy you would have thought wouldn’t have time for interviews and yes he doesn’t but when Clothes-make-the-man.com call you, its hard to say to no;

Ed Burstell – The Managing Director of Liberty

What piece of style advise do you live by ?

Never dress or admit your age or you’ll become your age.

What’s your favourite piece of clothing ?

My Miguel Adrover cashmere column top coat – years before Twilight or True Blood…

Who is your style icon ? Why ?

Steve McQueen. Hot, in absolutely anything.

What piece of clothing should everyman have in his wardrobe ?

A hoodie. Cotton for the kids and cashmere for the rest of us.

If you could have invented anything what would it be ?

The airplane or space ship. The mystery of flight still amazes.

How did you get into the industry, what was your big break ?

After my gap year of living on the beach in Florida and doing what one does when living on a beach in Florida I found myself back in New York with no money and no job.

It was November and I went to Macy’s. They had two jobs – Santaland or a fragrance sprayer. I chose sprayer and worked my way up from the very bottom.

If you had one day to live what would be your biggest regret ?

That I had given up any vices.

What do you have to do after this conversation ?

Boring meeting with a supplier.

What would you like to be doing after this conversation ?

Pimms o’clock with a cigarette

If you could only wear one brand/Designer for the rest of your life who would it be ? Why ?

Rick Owens, for his consistent original vision over time.

Who would do you ideal diner guest and why ?

Grace Jones, 64 and still kicking ass.

www.Liberty.co.uk

Dame Lou Dalton, you mark my words, its on the cards.

Today’s subject of Textual conversations had the nightmare task of kicking off proceedings for the first London Collections:Men last week, so no pressure then !!! However, in the words of Gary Barlow, X-Factor circa 2011, “Wow! what a way to open to the show.” Lou Dalton totally rose to the occasion and took it all in her lady like stride. Dalton has established herself within Menswear with a signature aesthetic that showcases contemporary classicism and refined tailoring that is defined by her working-class roots and her dapper Teddy Boy father. She has the ability to develop exceptional well crafted garments that are both considered & at the same time functional. She has honed her craft by working with amongst others Stone Island, Crucianni Knitwear and tailor extraordinaire Charlie Allen. Now you would have thought this lady was too busy for interviews, but she made time to answer the questions of Clothes-make-the-man.com

In your words, describe your SS13 collection ?

Light wool mohair tailoring mixed with M.O.D mesh. Harness inserts in contrast fabrics mixed with classic shirting. Oversized shirts worn with slim jersey sweatshorts.

What was the inspiration for it ?

Obssession & restraint. Also the male leads in films such as Breaking Away, Eraser Head & Taxi Driver.

SS13

What are the key pieces in it ?

The mesh inserted single breasted jackets, strap shoulder sweatshirts, harness cut shirts

What is you most memorable moment?

Seeing the boys lining up back stage about to walk out, the realisation that I actually got to this stage, also having key heavy weight press pop back stage to congratulate me on what they saw as a great show, very moved by that. Also meeting & chatting with Prince Charles.

Who would do you ideal diner guest and why ?

At this moment in time the love of my life Justin Haigh, we haven’t been in each others company for a while due to the show. Within the public eye, from the past Princess Margaret, from the present David Hockney, both colourful souls with many a story to tell I’m sure.

If you could give £1,000,000 to someone/something who would it be ?

I would split it between close family & friends, in return for all their constant love & support, my nearest & dearest have sacrificed a great deal, for that I will be forever greatful.

What piece of clothing would you relegate to Room 101 ?

A couple of seasons back one of the collections was heavily inspired by Napoleon, pretty much all of that collection can be put into room 101

What track would always get you on the dance floor ?

Raze, Break for Love