CLOTHES MAKE THE MAN
The extraordinary mens blog for the modern man
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Milano Moda Uomo (Milan Menswear Shows AW14)

 Ciao Ragazzi ! we follow on from the splendiferous LC:M of last week with what hopes to be equally captivating and awe inspiring Milano Moda Uomo. Unlike London the colour palette of our stylish Italian cousins seems to be of a more somber and some might say commercial and seasonally appropriate nature, that is apart from Prada, Versace ohhh and the Brit Dame Vivienne Westwood, more on that later folks.

First off  on our whistle stop round up on the Italian style capital is Ermenegildo Zegna, capably helmed by ex YSL Creative Director, Stefano Pilati, who was inspired by the fusion of City and Nature on a global scale. The city-scapes of New York, Shanghai or Milan where Zegna suits are common place, the mixing of casual elements with the formal cuts which Zegna has made its name in.

Ermenegildo Zegna

Ermenegildo Zegna

On a more ROCKIER tip was John Varvatos, who despite worked with  Black, Navy or white was channelling a very Glam rock vibe which culminated in Kings of Glam Rock “KISS” yes Kiss coming out to take a bow with the man himself.

Crazy, crazy night with John Varvatos(far right, just in case)

Crazy, crazy night with John Varvatos(far right, just in case)

Now over to a Dolce & Gabbana, who always love a theme for their shows and boy do they know how to put on a show ! Literally all we needed was good King Goffrey sat frow (front row, God get with it) giving his Royal approval to complete this Medieval Merriment. The duo paid homage to everything of this epoch and ensured more Game of Thrones then Spamalot.

Gotta say I loved the D&G balaclava, there I said it

Gotta say I loved the D&G balaclava, there I said it

And so from the King of ROCK dressing to what has to be the Queen of dressing Rock Stars, Donnatella Versace, who was in a Wild, Wild West mood, I think can only sum it up. No one could ever accuse Ms Versace of not having a sense of humour which is often lost in the Fashion industry, where people take themselves far too serious. 

Just off down the corner shop, does anyone want anything ? Yes, this was one of the more conservative looks.

Just off down the corner shop, does anyone want anything ? Yes, this was one of the more conservative looks.

Italo Zucchelli for Calvin Klein, drew on the Urban Explorer trend we are seeing rather a lot of this season, but also explored the heritage that made Calvin Klein so iconic using the names of three of their timeless fragrances in, Obsession, Eternity(my personal fave) and Escape to be emblazoned across some of its sweatshirts.

Calvin Klein

Calvin Klein

Now we all know I hate to start off on a negative and sorry for that Prada, but what was that soundtrack all about ? I needed some heavy duty Mexican painkillers for the headache after I left ! And have to say it did interfere with the enjoyment of the show, which was my favourite Prada collection of recent years. Trademark signature colours, which so shouldn’t work but so do, lil military detailing and a move away from that skinny-Malinke silhouette.

Prada

Prada

Penultimately we have the first show from Marc Jacobs since he parted company with Louis Vuitton to concentrate on his signature line. This is a man who knows a thing or two about Fashion design and this collection has to be one of his most commercial and wearable to date. Take away the styling details of the turn ups etc this a collection that every man with a modicum of taste will LOVE, honestly, I promise.

Marc Jacobs

Marc Jacobs

Ahhh and once again we reach the end of our non stop tour of some of the biggest names in men’s style and what better way to finish then with an Italian Super brand synonymous with style, class and excellent taste, of course, Gucci. While watching this show I couldn’t help thinking of two inspirations throughout it, firstly, obviously Frida Gianinni was draw towards the influences of London’s Swinging Sixties of Carnaby Street and the Beatles but secondly and somewhat more obscurely was the Hovis boy of the TV ad fame, sorry I know but couldn’t stop referring to him.

 

By'eck son it's None other then Gucci

By’eck son it’s None other then Gucci

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Milan Menswear Show Review SS14

As the sun sets on another LC:M for this season, its time to move out and move on, setting up camp in another style Capital this time it’s the turn of Italy’s Financial Capital, Milano. For Spring Summer 2014 the Italian houses seem to be in mixed moods, maybe reflective of the country wide mood, as the recession rumbles on and uncertainty is the mood du jour. So first we have some young blood who seem to be making waves in the right direction Les Homme. Continuing where London, left off and reflective of a number of their designers, Tom Notte and Bart Vandebosch of Les Homme blurred the lines of casual and formal and teamed leather t-shirts with suiting, formalised the shorts and bomber jacket all the time keeping the primary colour palette dark and sombre but highly wearable.

Calvin Klein Collection

Calvin Klein Collection

For Calvin Klein Collection, Italo Zucchelli, was all about 40 shades of blue, rather then the grey, which several of his fellow designers seemed to relish. Every hue of blue must surely have been used at some point during the show, offering, as always, his minimal, futuristic take on menswear.  Whether it be simply Navy, or Sky blue, Yves Klein blue, no relative, to Midnight blue they were all present as Zucchelli celebrates a decade at the helm of the good ship SS Calvin Klein.

Vivienne Westwood

Vivienne Westwood

Now as we mentioned in the London Show Reviews, I’ve sort the views of a number of Fashion industry soothsayers, for their opinion on their key shows and first of today’s viewpoints comes from British GQ’s Associate Editor, Mr Robert Johnston,  who has forgotten more about Fashion and style then many people will EVER know.

“I loved Vivienne Westwood. Fresh, fun and wearable while still being classic Westwood. The Indian prints took you to a chic Goan beach house mixed with the drama of a white evening cape for a modern mix of east meets west.”

Then onto an Italian Family Dynasty, who are hopefully putting the sad events of this year behind them to concentrate on more happier times. Missoni, who like many designers this season are opting for a more conservative, maybe even recession proof collection. Obviously it goes without saying the show wasn’t without the unmistakable family pattern evident on many of their key pieces, but this was made all the more wearable by mixing it with a much sober palette of navy, beige and sage.

Prada

Prada

And as almost to act as a colour interlude from all the darker tones of Milanese Designers, Prada should present to us their collection for SS14, but I will leave this to the more then capable Dan Rookwood, Style Director of Mens Health UK to expand upon.

“Every season the one show everyone expects the most from is Prada – and every season the fashion powerhouse more than meets those expectations. Prada’s HQ had once again been reinvented. This time we were transported back in time to a steamy 1950s tropicana scene. I got a sense of pre-Revolution Havana when the mob were running the casinos. All the models had been spritzed to look like they were glistening with sweat, mirroring some of those squished into the front row. The tiered seating was aqua blue like a swimming pool and the ceiling was sky blue like the, erm, sky. The models walked around the pool edge past a painted set of sunsets and palms. The colour palette was quite moody and muddy for a summer collection – burgundy, bottle green, khaki and navy – but was enlivened by bold, colourful Hawaiian print buttoned-up shirts and standout leather briefcases and overnight bags, festooned with tropical patterns. Trend-wise, we’re looking at a wider leg trouser worn with a casually tied canvas belt; generously-lapelled jackets with the sleeves turned up; and 50s-style shirts. The universal verdict: yet another Prada triumph.”

Gucci

Gucci

So from one great Stylish man to another, this time Fashion Director of American Esquire, the ever dapper and unflappable Nick Sullivan, give us his take on the iconic house of Gucci designed by Frida Giannini.

“Gucci was a breath of fresh air for me this time round. The glitzy side was played down in favour of a comfortable mix of romantic print and technical sportswear. Highlights were floral print cotton suits and a couple of others with simple dot prints reminiscent of pocket squares… The navy ones got my name on it. On the sports side I loved the bright yellow sailing top with its technical bonded seams and sone of the texhnical looking pants. To me the combination of romance and sport was unlikely but the sheer unadulterated quality of everything made it work just great.” 

Couldn’t have put it better myself fellas!

Fendi

Fendi

Italy are known for their great family Dynasties from the Borgias, to the Guccis, The Medicis to the Fendis and the latter house offered as a HUGELY wearable collection for SS14 to the point that I challenge you not to find a least one outfit that you wouldn’t like to purchase. The colour palette, the cut, everything about this collection just screamed WEAR ME ! From casual chic to fresh formal, it owned the Fendi man a complete wardrobe from dusk til dawn.