Disgruntled Yoof – Ben Sherman X Matthew Miller – Dissaffected Generation Forever

imageMatthew Miller is on somewhat on a run of great Collaborations at the moment, this Stoke-on-Trent lad cut his teeth working on projects for Sportwear brand Umbro, Suiting Supremo Brioni, Oliver Sweeney and Timberland amongst others, either before or in the early stages of setting up on his own. More recently he and a whole host of bright young things, including Katie Eary and Christopher Raeburn worked exclusively with MRPORTER.com and Grenson on a brilliant footwear project. Vogue have labelled him, “One to Watch” and Selfridges picked up on him after only his second collection. For his latest partnership its the turn of Ben Sherman.

This time, Miller explores the notion of a ‘disafffected generation’ that forms an identity through rebellion and the pressure to conform. The collection focuses on  Matthew’s trademark of investigating traditional structures and subverting them with new fabrications. Classic elements, such as the Ben Sherman ‘House Check’  has been enlarged and applied as a new print for t-shirts, shirts and a jacket. The shirts and t-shirts have been dissected with a cross-fading ‘House Check’, whilst the others hold a ‘DGF’ chest badge, which sits like an emblem for the  ‘disaffected generation forever’. The enlarged print continues on to the light-weight jacket, which carries signature Ben Sherman details like the back locker-loop.

Happy and glorious, Long to reign over us: The Best of British Menswear Designers X Grenson Shoes for MRPORTER

imageIn the latest of an increasingly must have exclusive line of collaborations, hosted by uber e-tailer MRPORTER.COM  is with, what can only be described as the hottest role call in young British Menswear Designers. The likes of Agi & Sam, Craig Green, Christopher Raeburn, Matthew Miller, Katie Eary and Sibling have each designed a pair of shoes, made by heritage footwear brand Grenson, which will be sold exclusively on MR PORTER.

The Grenson factory in Northamptonshire was founded in 1866 , and was the first in the world to employ the “Goodyear welt” method of construction, a technique that has become a hallmark of all well-made British shoes. In 2005 Tim Little joined the company as Creative Director to revitalise the brand and with the launch in 2006, of his easier, altogether more modern take on traditional English shoes, introduced Grenson to a whole new generation of men.

Taking the multiple styles on offer within the Grenson G: Lab programme, the designers have applied their very creative and individualistic vision to a mix of boots, brogues and loafers. Agi & Sam’s shoe uses three different types of black leather on a thick crepe rubber sole, while Katie Eary has created a cobalt blue double monk. Craig Green has taken an all-black brogue and added a utilitarian elastic strap fastening and chunky tread, and Matthew Miller has given a black derby shape a crocodile-effect treatment. Christopher Raeburn’s contribution is a military inspired boot, and Sibling’s trademark use of colour is evident in a pair of sky blue penny loafers with bright pink lining.