Homme Mode à Paris – Paris Menswear Show Review AW14

Bonjour my petit pois ! We have the last of out previews from the European Style Capitals for this season, well for next season but let’s not confuse matters. This time as though it needed an introduction, of course, the city of lurve, Paris.

First, for our delectation is one of the oldest Fashion Houses and hottest tickets for all Paris Menswear Shows, Louis Vuitton, under the style direction of  uber talented Brit Kim Jones. Jones has shown he’s not only come along way since his collaborations as a young Designer with the like of TOPMAN and sports brand Umbro, but has finely tuned his talents to produce some of the most sublime collections in recent years from the house of Vuitton. For Autumn/Winter 14 the trend driven show wasn’t as obviously as past seasons, opting for letting the Clothes do the talking, but was loosely inspired by Kim’s trip to the Atacama Desert of South America.

Louis Vuitton

Louis Vuitton

On to one of the busiest men of the Paris Men’s shows Kris Van Assche, with the first of his two presentations of the week, up first is his own signature collection. Here we shown a totally wearable and rather commercial range from Van Assche, offering us colour, patterns in herringbone and eye catching dizzy dots.

Kris Van Assche

Kris Van Assche

Then with a hop, skip and literal jump over to the second of Monsieur Van Assche’s collections, told you he was busy, in Dior Homme. Where if we were in any doubt as to his Dotty tendencies, they were confirmed here. We were offered them in Suits, shirts, shoes, ties, honestly you name it, it was covered in dots, but please don’t be put off, he managed to pull this off, to quote Mr Kenny Everett, it was all done in the best possible taste !

Dior Homme

Dior Homme

Now then, Ami’s, Alexandre Mattiussi continues his assault on being the favourite label of choice among the style press and it isn’t surprising as to why. He’s proving to be a Jedi Master in the art of producing collections that have that simply, unassuming, stylish charm about them, but all the time screaming, your life won’t be complete without me in it !

Ami

Ami

Into the final straights, we have a name who over the past couple of seasons has been making a lot of the right noises while showing in Milan, but for this season has made the move to Paris. Turkish born, Umit Benan, each season, selects a character to base his collection around. In the past, we have seen such inspiration as the taxi drivers of his home Capital Istanbul, or Vintage Rockers or even Investment Banker. However, this season we looked to, Jackie Robinson, who? The first African Amercian Baseball Star. So the presentation had a very 1940’s feel to it from the political references to the lack of freedom Robinson had to put up way at this time.

Umit Benan

Umit Benan

And so to the final of our designers, we started with a Brit designing for a French Fashion house and we finish with a British Designer showing in Paris. No less then Sir Paul Smith,  who relaxed his silhouettes this season and drew inspiration for his collection from one could say, another iconic figure, in Jim Morrison. So no surprises when I tell you there was a distinct ROCK feeling to Smith’s show.

Paul Smith

Paul Smith

The Greatest gift they’ll get this year – For the man who has everything and the person who can afford it !!!

250x250_CMTM_BannerWe all know someone who has everything they could possibly desire, you know the person, where you think of a brilliant gift only to be told he already has one. Whether it be a Brother, Dad best mate, cousin, Uncle, boyfriend or even one’s self, its a flipping nightmare to buy for them so we have LITERALLY picked up that internet thingy given it a good shake and gone through it with a fine tooth comb to give you some blooming well fantastic gift ideas, even if those gift ideas happen to be for yourself. Take a look –

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Who could resist this Backpack from Louis Vuitton, in keeping with the Mountaineering/Explorer theme from their Autumn/Winter 2013 Show,  Menswear Designer Kim Jones produced a Masterful collection, still managing for it to be wearable and totally desirable.

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Who’s says White Men can’t jump, Christopher Bailey of Burberry has worked and reworked animal prints into all sorts of luxury goodies, from man bags of all shapes and sizes to these hi-top-tastic trainers. Looking good !

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This amazing leather bound games compendium by Bill Amberg is ‘Made in England’ from Bridle leather. There are boards for backgammon, chess, draughts and noughts and crosses, It also comes with pieces for these games all wrapped up in a leather box. Perfect for travel or home and great entertainment for all the family, like after the turkey and stuffing and before the mince pie and brandy butter.

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My Life is complete ! Or it will be with this Tateossian paperweight at a cool £10,000, its what every man wants and needs, he just might not know it just yet.

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How truly decadent and could this gift be any more Rock n Roll ??? Strangely enough the brainchild of actor Dan Aykroyd, Crystal Head Vodka is the statement drink and gift this season. The enigmatic, hand crafted Crystal Head Vodka is based upon thirteen crystal heads found in various regions around the world.

 As if the legend wasn’t cool enough, Crystal Head Vodka spent the Summer partnering up with the Rolling Stones themselves to create the definitive Stone’s lover gift pack. The Rolling Stones 50th Anniversary set

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For anyone in the international jet set, you won’t be stuck without power abroad again with this Travel Adapter from Mulberry. A chic leather pouch reveals the adapter, compatible with plug sockets pretty much across the globe. There is also a USB connection for charging a wide variety of devices. Just don’t forget to take it with you!

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Now if you desk is a bit more bomb site then place of tranquility this is the perfect gift. This luxury calf leather desk set from Graf von Faber-Castell, available from Harrods.com features a letter opener, notelet box, pen tray, pen holder, 6 guilloche pencils and a desk pad.

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Now everyone and we mean everyone needs some down time, even the most workaholic out of us and down time requires the correct attire, but for some people your regular hoodie won’t cut it. Now this Loro Piana silk and cashmere-blend hoodie from MRPORTER.com embodies contemporary sportswear luxury. This Italian-crafted knit delivers ease and elegance in equal measure. Wear it with cashmere sweatpants for a contemporary your time look or refined in-flight lounging.

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Make him feel Wanted this Yuletide – Ideal Christmas Gift ideas for Dads

250x250_CMTM_BannerTo put it mildly, Dad’s often get the short end of the stick when is comes to Christmas Presents. All to often a lot is expected from Dad’s, when it comes to gifts sat under the tree, but when it come to dear ole Pop, the feeling isn’t always reciprocated. Father’s are often met, come Christmas Day with an underwhelming token of our appreciation, whether is be socks, booze or after shave, by the way, nothing wrong with any of the aforementioned gifting categories as long as it isn’t from Primark’s finest selection pack, a bottle of Morinov (yes Morrisons own Vodka Brand) or that ole favourite and often recycled, a Hai Karate gift set !

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Having a staple jumper in your wardrobe is essential, and we love this one from Marks & Spencer‘s Best of British range, made from pure cashmere, spun in Scotland. Furthermore, the characteristic Scottish handle of this jumper is a result of drawing soft water from the local well. Tactile and warm, choose from an array of rainbow colours to brighten up dreary winter days; fibre-dyed yarns promise a more lustrous and even colour for your jumper. Go on you know it makes sense !

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Ahhh Pyjamas, the inimitable and rather unsung Father’s Christmas Gift, never in this case as these are from the King of the Traditional American Christmas himself, No not Nat King Cole ! Mr Ralph Lauren, of course. Look every regal in this traditional jammies. In fact, have a holly, jolly Christmas and have the whole family in matching one ! Maybe not.

 

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Always a winner, help Dad’s stay warm these Holidays with a pair of gloves courtesy of Banana Republic. These great examples of leather gloves not alone look the part but won’t have dear ole Dad hiding his hands away, shoved into his jacket pockets.

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Now if you have some making up to do with your Dad or if he’s been a particular Star this year then make him feel super special come 25th with this Longines Avigation Oversize Crown Watch. Its Scratch and Water resistant, is self winding and has a tres chic Black Alligator strap. You’ll be the apple of his eye once more and all for the right reasons.

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This is a real investment piece by Louis Vuitton and something your Dad will have for many years to come, which will always remind him of you whenever he wears it. This is no ordinary run of the mill scarf, yes it keeps you warm but its a real statement and shows Dad, he’s one in a million.

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There are certain fragrances that are unmistakably Father Fragrances, the sort tat when you smell them you are transported back to years gone by, watching your Dad shave and wishing you could too. Aramis is the Daddy of all mens Fragrances and this excellent gift set offers not only great value but everything that a Dad could possibly want from a grooming range.

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This beauitful gift box contains a week’s supply of Hamilton & Hare tailored boxer shorts. Each boxer is individually embroidered with each day of the week. Savile Row expertise go into each pair ensuring a more flattering and comfortable fit. The finest two ply twill cotton, mother of pearl buttons and a silk lined fly, all go into these superior underwear.

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Home is where the LV heart is – The new Louis Vuitton Townhouse at Selfridges

GWENAEL NICOLAS SKETCH FINAL (NXPowerLite)Well, its been quite a week for the French Fashion house, of Louis Vuitton, firstly they announce, former Balenciaga creative visionaire, Nicholas Ghesquière as Artistic Director of its women’s collections, with immediate effect. Ghesquière commented at the briefing: “Louis Vuitton has always incarnated for me the symbol of ultimate luxury, innovation and exploration. I am very honored of the mission that I am entrusted with, and proud to join the history of this great Maison. We share common values and a vision. I can’t wait to join the team. Together we will build the future of the brand while preserving its precious heritage.”

Now if that wasn’t enough, today, the gallic luxury uber-brand will inaugurate a new store, the Louis Vuitton Townhouse, located in the renowned department store, Selfridges. Built over 3 inter-connecting floors, the Townhouse follows a new architectural concept by the French-born and internationally acclaimed designer and former RCA student, Gwenaël Nicolas, whose past clients have included Issey Miyake and Lexus.

Through this unique space the brand promise their clientele a unique journey of surprise and discovery, a real dialogue between modernity and tradition inside the largest European department store-based destination. This is achieved by such features as the symbolic spiral structure which rises through the historical building. The ground floor will showcase the new collections of leather goods, accessories and travel items, with a dedicated and interactive digital platform of personalisation – a worldwide first for Louis Vuitton. Crafted glass art pieces become a striking background for the Vuitton leather collections including city bags, luggage and hard-sided pieces as well as the Maison’s iconic special orders and Mon Monogram.

Further into the store, a state-of-the-art circular elevator is revealed, which connects the upper floors. The short journey inside the elevator reveals a head-turning surprise as the glass structure gently spins inside a glass tube, following the movement of the spiral construction and offering an experience like no other. The amber brown patterns which are designed to evoking memories of sunset lights, are the prefect setting, for the first floor presents, for the first time the full Mens ready-to-wear, shoes and accessories collections presented by the in-house mens designer, Kim Jones, and is contrasted by strong patinated glass elements.

Paris Menswear Shows Autumn/Winter 2013

Ami Menswear AW13

Carven Menswear AW13

After we bid a fond Arrivedercci to Milano, its Paris, the city of love’s turn to show us its wares. Carven, was first off and also a first for them to host a Menswear Catwalk Show, it blended contemporary office wear with vintage ski attire, perfect for the weather at the moment. The collection offered beautiful tailoring and everything a modern man could possible yearn from his wardrobe. However, I’m really not sure the trouser length of just below the knee will catch on, them poor models’ll catch their death !

Louis Vuitton Menswear AW13

Louis Vuitton Menswear AW13

Over to Louis Vuitton next, where the Men’s Style Director Kim Jones transported us to the Himalayas offering us all sorts of animal prints and pelts. British Art duo Dinos and Jake Chapman, one of Jones’s Favourite artists,  worked with him on a number of motifs across the collection, including their “Garden in Hell” which appeared on tuxedos, luggage and pyjamas. What more could a well travelled gentleman ask for ?

Maison Martin Margiela Menswear AW13

Maison Martin Margiela Menswear AW13

Maison Martin Margiela, was the next port of call and offered a brilliantly cast show showcasing gentlemen full of gallic charm and character. Although I love the wearability, usually, of this brand, sometimes I find it a little lost on me and I’m sure I’m not solo on this. Why ruin a great double breasted suit by making it into a jumpsuit or trash loads of vintage biker jackets to make a cape, which wouldn’t have been out of place on a horror film villain ? But on the whole, I still love what Martin does in his Maison.

Riccardo Tisci for Givenchy Menswear AW13

Riccardo Tisci for Givenchy Menswear AW13

As Christopher Kane looked to his dark side in the form of Franenstein’s Monster for his Autumn 2013 collection, now it was the turn of Riccardo Tisci for Givenchy. The candles laid out around the catwalk gave a seance feel to the proceeding and one hoped  this wasn’t an omen for the range. Not at all in fact Tisci, interpreted, in a rather gothic fashion, the images of American artist Robert Mapplethorpe using monochrome tones. Plus, loved the styling tip of tying your jacket around your waist, bring it on !

Ami by Alexandre Mattuisuu

Ami by Alexandre Mattiussi Menswear AW13

Ami is quickly establishing itself as a label of choice for those in the know and its really not difficult to see why the label designed by Alexandre Mattiussi is doing so well. Its success, like main key brand of the moment in its ease, easy to wear, easy to put together, easy to outfit build which in turn makes your life easier. The show’s set was staged to be the morning’s commuter train, where sharp dressed chaps made their way to the grind.

And to, what has to be the most anticipated event for seasons, the last show of the schedule, an unmistakable Parisian Fashion house with a new name, kinda, with a new designer, kind of…..Saint Laurent by Hedi Slimane. His first menswear show, well his second as he was at the house for a short time back in 2000, but now he’s back and in a big way and….. Well, and not a great deal, nothing we hadn’t seen before and nothing you couldn’t pick up elsewhere for a fraction of the price. I want to leave it there as I believe Hedi Slimane is a great talent and look forward to seeing what he produces for next season, as we have to remember this is the man who caused literally a revolution in mens clothing, in what we wear and how we wore it, back at Dior Homme.