The Talented Mr Spencer – Oliver Spencer

When I first started on this blog adventure and I came up with the idea of textual conversations, one of the first people on the list was Oliver Spencer, since its launch in 2002, I’d admired his clothes, the cut, the design and overall feel of the stores and the brand, plus over the years as I got to know him from meeting him at various Fashion weeks, events and the occasional pint, I discovered what a genuine and decent fella Oliver is.

Now whats interesting to know is with no formal training Oliver founded the label as a reaction to the merging boundaries between mainstream and fashion collections, bridging the gap between dress-up and dress-down. The label mixes quintessential English style with quirky flourishes and attention to detail.His signature label sits alongside his involvement with Favourbrook, the label he founded in 1990, and which now has three stores on Jermyn Street, London, catering for those seeking an eclectic take on modern sophistication.

Of his eponymous collection, Oliver admits, “I wanted to create clothes that bridge the gap between workwear and fashion, mainstream and utility.” In doing so he developed a sophisticated and intelligent approach, where detail is vital in each and every garment. Detachable collars, innovative linings, hidden pockets and quirky accessories are all stamped by Spencer’s craftsmanship and tailoring skills. As he says, his collections are, “All about culture, not about cult.” Notably Oliver made the decision to aim the designs at a more grown-up clientele, who would judge the designs on merit alone, and in spite of maintaining high production and finishes, the clothes retain a handmade sensibility. However, in turn his skills have caught the attentions of the Great British high Street and has seen him work with, amongst others Selfridges, TopMan & Asos on exclusive collaborations. Plus he counts Paul Waller, Mad Men’s Don Draper, sorry Jon Hamm and Benicio Del Toro as ardent clients.

Anyway, enough of me going on with myself lets see what he’s got to say for himself;

In your own words what is you’re A/W12 collection about & What’s your favourite piece in the collection ?

A Feeling of 1970’s Arthouse and the impeccable style of a youthful Lucian Freud.

The two tone bomber is my favourite.

If you could have invented anything what would it be ?

The iphone.

What’s your favourite piece of clothing ?

KWay pack a mack.

Who is your style icon ?

Lucian Freud, because he’s eclectic and artistic.

Tell us something no one else knows ?

Prada is going to open on Shoreditch High Street.

Can you tie a bow tie ? If yes, who taught you?

The unique Lucian Freud

Yes, Self taught.

What piece of clothing should everyman have in his wardrobe ?

A suit, one good suit.

Have you ever bought a piece of clothing and regretted it ?

Yes, A Yohji Yamamoto shirt, it was too big and made me look like a chef.

What do you have to do after this conversation?

Go and look at the venue for our forthcoming show.

What would you like to be doing after this conversation ?

Going to a restaurant.

What track would always get you on the dance floor?

Anything by Arcade Fire.

oliverspencer.co.uk

London Calling

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After the success of the Opening ceremony for the 2012 Olympic games on Friday we thought we’d give you another chance to sample the delights of our guide to the host city. We decided to give you a insight to the not only the home of London Collections, but also the Queen’s Diamond Jubilee and the capital of Great Britain, yeah you guessed it, LONDON. Now to spice thing up we’ve only gone and asked a couple of the key designers who have shown their SS13 collection last week, for their favourite London tips, destinations and hang outs, with the help of our friends at the British Fashion Council. So whether you reside in Londonium, are planning a visit or just wanna know a little more about the place, relax and read through your essential guide ;

Top 5 Things to do

5) Head down to Borough Market, go hungry and take advantage of all the free samples.

4) Let yourself go, do something touristy – we recommend the London Eye, the Olympic Stadium or an open top Bus tour.

3) Head east and see what everyone is talking about, avoid the Nathan Barley’s (the reality is worse then the show, the show was tame), have a look round the Box Park pop up Mall. See where your taxes are being spent.

2) Use the Boris Bikes, obviously not a after a drink or two and take a ride down to the Serpentine.

1) Get a Time Out and see what’s on, it sound corny but, there is always so much going on in London. So, take advantage of being in one of the best cities in the WORLD.

Eat – Tayyabs – Probably the best curry this side of Mumbai (www.tayyabs.co.uk)

Sleep – Dean St Town house, you couldn’t get much more central (www.deanstreettownhouse.com)

Drink – The Cat & Mutton Broadway Market, a great pub in the one of the globe’s trendiest areas (www.catandmutton.com)

Ask a Designer

Christpher Raeburn – “The Chiswick Boot Fair has always been a personal favourite. I also recommend The Wapping Project and a walk around the surrounding area, as well as escaping the city (sort of) to Epping Forest.”

Lou Dalton – “The Charles Lamb pub in Islington, St. John in St. John Street and the Hunterian Museum.”

Oliver Spencer – “The Barbican for Bauhaus, followed by the James Bond Exhibition. Primrose Hill for the weather and Lambs Conduit Street because we love it.”

Patrick Grant – “Drink a Vesper at the bar at Dukes Hotel. Go for oysters at Wilton’s or Bentley’s.”

Christopher Shannon – “Shrimpy’s at the Filling Station in Kings Cross, Mishkins in Covent Garden and a walk along the Thames as long as your legs can take it.”

Matthew Miller – “Stour Space café in Hackney Wick for breakfast. You can sit next to the canals and the Olympic stadium and watch the rowers row by while enjoying the wares of the local artists, and the best Eggs Benedict in East London! Vietnamese from the Green Papaya, Hackney, is the best I have tasted anywhere.
Just spend a day walking around the streets of London, you never know what you’ll find.”

Richard Nicoll – “Sunday at Herald Street Gallery and shopping at LNCC, dinner at La Bodega Negra Mexican in Soho (book ahead) and then on to Horse Meat Disco for an evening jig.”

London skyline by night

www.britishfashioncouncil.com/

www.londoncollections.co.uk/men

Lou Dalton – the First lady of Menswear

Dame Lou Dalton, you mark my words, its on the cards.

Today’s subject of Textual conversations had the nightmare task of kicking off proceedings for the first London Collections:Men  last week, so no pressure then !!! However, in the words of Gary Barlow, X-Factor circa 2011, “Wow! what a way to open to the show.” Lou Dalton totally rose to the occasion and took it all in her lady like stride. Dalton has established herself within Menswear with a signature aesthetic that showcases contemporary classicism and refined tailoring that is defined by her working-class roots and her dapper Teddy Boy father. She has the ability to develop exceptional well crafted garments that are both considered & at the same time functional. She has honed her craft by working with amongst others Stone Island, Crucianni Knitwear and tailor extraordinaire Charlie Allen. Now you would have thought this lady was too busy for interviews, but she made time to answer the questions of Clothes-make-the-man.com  

In your words, describe your SS13 collection ?

Light wool mohair tailoring mixed with M.O.D mesh. Harness inserts in contrast fabrics mixed with classic shirting. Oversized shirts worn with slim jersey sweatshorts.

  What was the inspiration for it ?

Obssession & restraint. Also the male leads in films such as Breaking Away, Eraser Head & Taxi Driver.

 

SS13

    What are the key pieces in it ?

The mesh inserted single breasted jackets, strap shoulder sweatshirts, harness cut shirts 

    What is you most memorable moment?

Seeing the boys lining up back stage about to walk out, the realisation that I actually got to this stage, also having key heavy weight press pop back stage to congratulate me on what they saw as a great show, very moved by that. Also meeting & chatting with Prince Charles.

    Who would do you ideal diner guest and why ?

At this moment in time the love of my life Justin Haigh, we haven’t been in each others company for a while due to the show. Within the public eye, from the past Princess Margaret, from the present David Hockney, both colourful souls with many a story to tell I’m sure.

    If you could give £1,000,000 to someone/something who would it be ?

I would split it between close family & friends, in return for all their constant love & support, my nearest & dearest have sacrificed a great deal, for that I will be forever greatful.

    What piece of clothing would you relegate to Room 101 ?

A couple of seasons back one of the collections was heavily inspired by Napoleon, pretty much all of that collection can be put into room 101

    What track would always get you on the dance floor ?

Raze, Break for Love

What piece of clothing should everyman have in his wardrobe ? 

A good crisp white shirt, preferbly one by Lou Dalton

Tell us something no one else knows ?

I was once on Alan Car’s tv quiz where I won a colourful rosette, this sits proudly upon my Christmas tree now, year in year out.

If you could only wear one brand/Designer, other then your own, for the rest of your life who would it be ? Why ?

Dries Van Noten, relevant when I was a student & still relevant today, considered & beautifully executed. Love, love, love

www.loudalton.com

Lou Dalton A/W12 Collection

Preview of SS13 Collection