We start this season’s round up of all matters of a Sartorial nature in London and what better place to get the ball rolling than at an honest to goodness PUB QUIZ !!! OK with a rather stylish twist to it, in that it’s compare was Hacienda DJing Legend Mr Elliot Eastwick and it was organised by the Savile Row Tailoring trailblazers that are Cad & The Dandy, only in London.

TOPMAN DESIGN

Bright and breezy, otherwise known as flipping freezing, start to the day, but a warm reception was waiting at the TOPMAN Design show which was piled high with Northern Soul references, like being at a Wigan Pier Weekender. There was nods to The Bay City Rollers, Mark Boland right the way through to James Hunt and any show that finishes with Crazy Horses by The Osmonds is a winner in my books.

I was spoilt for choice on the first day of LC:M with a number of fave brands showing their wares but high points had to be David Keyte’s Universal Works, offering us a conceptual performance, which can go either way for me. But it didn’t disappoint, working on the principle upon which the brand is founded, the idea of Passing on, not in an deathly kinda way but how clothing can be passed on from being old to young and in doing so can be reinvented and reinvigorated.

One of my overall highlights of the entire schedule has to be the Barbour Presentation, which showcased the second season of their wonderful collaboration with the Japan company White Mountaineering, best summed

Barbour

up by the unique, Thank God, Mr Richard Gray, of The Sunday Times STYLE;

“I guess this collab is Tokyo cool meets Prince Charles or something like that. I spoke to Aiwaze San the designer of White Mountaineering, who told me the wax you see, which makes a Barbour jacket waterproof, was the Gortex of its day. And, in fact, it works as well as any new scientific development. Including Gortex. I look forward to the day the Royal Family wear White Mountaineering.“

Hackett

Then what a way to finish off the first day then to head over to one of London’s hidden architectural gems, No 2 Temple Place for a spot of dinner and to look at some exquisite attire by none other than Hackett, entitled, ‘Sheep, Shape and London Fashion’, this capsule collection paid homage to the prestigious longstanding textile mills of Britain. The 12 looks were an amalgamation of different checks and patterns in the finest British wools.

The second day started off with a great breathe of fresh air in the shape of the LC:M Exhibition, this never fails to impress me and I always fall head of heals for at least one brand this season my head couldn’t help being turned by the wonderful Gloverall and then the cashmere delights of ESK, this just has to be British craftsmanship at its best. And from one great example to another with Mr Nigel Calbourn who is never swayed by the short lived trends of Fashions but driven by inspirational stories of real people in history and vintage military, outdoor and work wear pieces.

Over then to Fraser Moss and YMC and once again I search the counsel of the ever wise Ms Sarah Gilfillan, contributor of this wonderful publication and founder of Sartorialab.co.uk ;

“I’ve always loved their simple understated look, and I particularly liked the clever layering and outerwear. The mixture of taloring with sportswear inspired pieces like the drawstring trousers takes me right back to the 90’s when they first started .I find their collections are minimal enough in design to appeal to the everyday man but they always have a subtle point of difference so they’re never boring. I have no doubt I’ll be buying many of these items with my clients next season and I can’t wait!”

Hardy Amies

Moving on to a brand which, to quote Messers Daft Punk and Williams, “Like a Phoenix from the ashes” WOW I can quite simply sum the Hardy Amies collection as, Beautiful clothes, where you find yourself wanting piece after piece.

Christopher Raeburn

Much like Mr Christopher Raeburn, who like Nigel Cabourn draws greatly on the great outdoors and nature in all its beauty for their inspiration and once again he does fail to impress. This season utilising Royal Navy rafts as his material of choice.

Belstaff

Now stay with me here, but I had my reservations when I headed towards an underground car park, not a million miles away from The House of Commons. Surely I must have taken a wrong turn, it wouldn’t have been the first time and this can hardly be classed as a glamorous setting for a stylish presentation for a brand like Belstaff ? Well, as I see Fashion Royalty like Ms Suzy Menkes, Mr Edward Enniful and Ms Caroline Rush spilling out of it, I can’t be wrong. Belstaff, took its inspiration from the ‘Ton-Up Boys’ of the 1950s. Heavily into their rock‘n’roll and motorcycles, these ‘greasers’ would rendezvous at cafés and attempt to ‘do a ton’ (exceed speeds of 100mph) on their custom-made bikes, both fearless and reckless in their stylish pursuit.

Casely-Hayford

Moving into the straits now we had a blinder of a show from Father and Son duo Joe and Charlie Casely-Hayford. Set to a sound track of Bjork and Bowie a tribe of Stylish Outsiders did the honours for u. Mixing Oranges and Pinks seamlessly with Blacks and Navy to create a riveting colour palette.

E.Tautz

Opening to a surmon by his Holiness Pope John Paul II isn’t the most obvious start to an E.Tautz show but give Patrick Grant his dues it certainly got the audience’s attention in what Grant called his most personal collection so far, for the Savile Row house. Every coat and piece of outerwear he sent out was one you lushes and craved for already, no brights or pastels for Grant this season only monochrome in his highly wearable colour spectrum.

Tom Ford

Now here’s the battle of the big boys of LC:M, the Texan and the Yorkshire lad, up first we have Tom Ford who showed us a much more causal side to him, which I have to say I’d really not expected to see which included jeans and trainers, I lie to you not ! Then we have Christopher Bailey in the Burberry Check corner, offering us Classical Bohemian in ponchos, florals and paisley, fresh off a hazy trip back in time to India.

Well, there you have it for another season next stop Milan, ding, ding !

The wise scholar, and sometime fashion raconteur, Mr Kanye West OBE, once said, ” Work it harder, make it better,
do it faster, makes us stronger”. Which sums up the latest instalment of London Collections:Men for Spring/Summer 2015, I know Summer 2014 has barely shown us it’s beautiful face and I’m talking about 2015, well that’s Fashion for ya. Anyway, we are back in London and it’s a packed schedule from YMC to KTZ to DKNY, this gives Anthony very little TLC and it’s down to work. We give you the best overview, of what is becoming THE Fashion eventing the calendar. With international name like MOSCHINO, Tiger of Sweden and of course DKNY throwing that very sartorial hat into the ring, London’s becoming a Cosmopolitan hotbed of talent.

However, first up we have, the irrepressible but more importantly lovely Lou Dalton. For this season Ms Dalton has taken a bit of a risky change in direction, but boy did it pay off ! We saw a more mature, confident and stylish collection. The tailoring, Sportwear fusion was still present but everything felt, tighter (not physical), sharper and generally more impressive. Keep up the good work Dalton A*.

Next up, the first of many zig zagging around the capital, to Kent and Curwen, the second season for the brand to be showing as part of LC:M. It has come a long way since launching as a modest collection of ties and cricket sweaters and has grown into one of the most sought after sporting brands in the country. The Brand further fused their take on English dress codes with that juxtaposition of graphic patterns, which mixed with their casting gave a feeling of David Bowie’s thin white Duke.

Hardy Amies, (above) like its Savile Row neighbour, Gieves & Hawkes (below) showed a blinder of a Masterclass in Great British Tailoring, cool, contemporary but above all wearable. Exquisite ! Plus with the likes of Richard James, E.Tautz and Hackett. It doesn’t take a genius to see why the UK, and London has regained it’s crown for being THE destination for suiting.

From some of the oldest names in British style to one of the more newer ones in, Christopher Raeburn, who gave his very unique take on Military. Working with a traditional regimental colour palette, Raeburn worked in Fighter jets and missile prints and showed he improves and builds season upon season.

Not only was Jonathan Saunders showing us his signature collection but in the exhibition space we saw his GREAT Second season collaboration with Lyle & Scott, which was based on the Shane Meadow’s film of the Stone Roses Reunion, Made of Stone. Additionally to this they also showed their other sterling collaborative effort with Universal Works. Plus to Cap off the collaboration craziness area was the BEAUITFUL range by Barbour X White Mountaineering, (above) one to definitely keep an eye out for.

Oliver Spencer, continues with his successful formula of producing wearable, timeless, pieces that form part an impeccable wardrobe. Last season we had Idris Elba providing the entertainment on the decks. This season Olie followed suit and as the eyes of the world focuses of Brazil he had the UK’s foremost Brazilian percussion group supply the entertainment, complete with Carnival dancing girls ! Somewhat a highlight of the day.

Christopher Kane

So after yesterday’s plethora of delights that enthralled us, what do we have for you today. Well, we can quite safely say COLOUR is the major trend for Autumn, but you could retort with, so what’s new ? What’s new is that we have seen pretty much every colour of the Rainbow from the darker more somber tones as een in TOPMAN Design and the monochromes of Agi & Sam to the racier hues of Richard Nicoll, Jonathan Saunders and of course Christopher Kane, who offered a box of delights to keep any man happy no matter his taste from sober to total intoxication. Kane has expanded his collection to include a more formal element right the way through to his signature patterns and knits in amazing and engaging tones.

Hackett

Next stop was the Freemasons Hall in Holborn for the Hackett Show, some what of a British institution holding it’s show within another British institution. The Freemason’s was a spectacular venue for the staging of this grand hotel themed setting. It was like a game of Guess Who, with leading men under the guise of the Explorer, The Graduate, the CEO and travel photographer, to name a few. In short everything was right about this show, in trying to select a picture to illustrate this show, it was so difficult as I liked one shot, then another and another.

E.Tautz

As always I like to gauge the opinion of learned colleagues, up first this season, is The StyleKing himself, Gary Kingsnorth, who described Patrick Grant’s E.Tautz as, “The highlight of LC:M was E.Tautz for me, a collection that was strong and contemporary.Inspired by the artwork of William Hogarth that was brought bang up date was a compelling collection to watch on the catwalk .”

Kent & Curwen

Another house of tradition with its roots firmly entrenched in formalwear, but somewhat commencing a transformation, since the appointment of new Creative Director, by golly there all at it, Simon Spurr is Kent & Curwen. He bought us a range inspired by Naval dress uniform, where he has reinterpretation and juxtaposition of iconic pieces.

Burberry Prorsum

So from one brand ringing in the changes to the ultimate brand who have completely turned themselves around, Burberry. Christopher Bailey for Burberry Prorsum, used London again as inspiration, in the second season of showing at LC:M he embraced the London Autumnal weather and used Leaf prints on Scarf, shirts and coats. Plus, if anyone can make that other very British of garment, the string vest cool again surely it has to be Bailey ?

Christopher Shannon

The second of our contributing opinion formers comes from one of the pioneers in men’s style blogging, Marcus Jaye, otherwise known as TheChicGeek, who felt, “Think my favourite show was Christopher Shannon. Really took it to the next level with ideas and the finish. Kept his sportswear look that he is known for, but gave others, who aren’t necessarily into that look , something like the fag packet knits or the bomber jackets.”

A.Sauvage

And finally, we come all too quickly to the end of another LC:M and what better way to finish this review of the best of the best then with Mr Adrien Sauvage. Who presented his envious and effortlessly cool take on style from rocking formalwear to rock inspired casual wear.

London has well and truly established itself as a destination on the menswear calendar as a Fashion & Style capital. So as that international Fashion circus of journalists, retail buyers, celebs and, well yours truly, all conjugate in major cities in the name of observing the trends and future wares of some of the biggest & most talented fashion brands in the world, Clothes-Make-the-Man brings you all the best reviews, titbits & opinions over the coming weeks. Enough of this, first up on the London Schedule is the exhibition as I, rather out of character, arrived early. So I took myself off to have a look around, which in the past have proven to be a greater source of inspiration than many of the show, this season was no exception. With the likes of a Common People, Lyle & Scott and Universal works all offering GREAT Collections for Autumn including collaborations with Jonathan Saunders and the aforementioned Universal Works for Lyle & Scott, all managing, very well, I hasten to add, to produce very creative collection all the while managing to be highly commercial.

An example if Jonathan Saunders for Lyle & Scott

Onto the shows for me, my lad and first up is TOPMAN. You never quite know what to expect from TOPMAN Design and this season was no exception, the show can be summed up in three words Mature, Desirable but above all Wearable. With a very muted colour palette of Black, Navy, pale blue and flashes of Russian Red. If those guys over at TOPMAN HQ are planning on targeting an older the customer, they won’t have a problem enticing him. Plus with the dulcet tones of John Copper Clarke and the downpour of rain in the finale, it brought me right back home to my Northern roots.

TOPMAN Design

Next on my hit list is Gieves & Hawkes and the subject of yesterday’s textual Conversation, Mr Jason Basmajian, who just so happens to be the house’s new Creative Director, making waves in all the right places. Jason, informed us his profile that he was going to offer us an, “Elegant,textural, tailored, rich, Savile Row revisited, British twist”. Which quite simply summed up the collection.

Gieves & Hawkes

Now, talk about ends of the spectrum and what is becoming a real USP for LC:M is how it manages to go from the tradition and finesse of Savile Row to young designers offering the height of creative inspiration. One in question being the wonderful Richard Nicoll, who from season to season just seems to be getting stronger and stronger when it comes to his Menswear. Only four seasons in and Nicoll’s presented to us, what can only be described as a riot of Colour. If I had to fit it into a tweet, I’d say, A modern interpretation of the urban man’s wardrobe.

Richard Nicolls

Last, but by no means least of today’s round up, is Christopher Raeburn, who was one of a number of Designers who picked up on the Polar Explorer vibe in their collection, it was a seriously cool show which Mr Raeburn laid on. You were left thinking, did he know something about the weather for next season that we didn’t which was rather apt as we read about our freezing American cousins who were experiencing record low temperatures.

Christopher Raeburn

As you all know each season during LC:M we select a leading designer from the London Schedule who has caught our eye and impressed us. This season is no exception and he’s a relative new comer to what can only be classed as one of the oldest & most respected names that grace Savile Row, with what has to be THE most envious of postal addresses, 1 Savile Row.

Jason Basmajian, confidently took over the reins of Gieves & Hawkes mid last year. He has over two decades’ experience which includes Director of Menswear at Calvin Klein and Donna Karan in New York. Additional to this he became Creative Director of ST Dupont in Paris. Subsequently he joined Brioni as Artistic Director. Whilst at Brioni he spearheaded the company’s modernisation and consolidation as one of the leading global luxury brands.

As for Gieves & Hawkes, it was created in the 20th century from the amalgamation of two long-established private tailoring firms founded in the 18th century – Gieves (founded 1785) and Hawkes (founded 1771). Currently the holder of three Royal Warrants, yes that’s THREE, as suppliers to HM The Queen, HRH Prince Philip the Duke of Edinburgh and HRH Prince Charles the Prince of Wales.

For Spring of this year Gieves & Hawkes departs Savile Row well attired for a long summer holiday with stops planned in Amalfi, Nairobi, Barbados and Shanghai before returning to London. The spirit of the collection is inspired by the traditions of bespoke but it is contemporary in its fresh mix of sartorial, military and sportswear styling. Anyway, that’s quite enough of the history and onto the main feature;

If you could have invented anything what would it be ?

Concorde – I love to travel fast

If you had one day to live what would be your biggest regret ?

My only regret would be having only 1 day

What would be the one piece of clothing you would rescue from your home in the event of a fire ?

I would save nothing – it would be fun to start over

What inspires you ?

Authenticity, creativity, intelligence, passion inspire in people inspire me

If you could only wear one brand/Designer for the rest of your life who would it be ?

Honestly, it would be a combination of my own work from ST Dupont, Brioni, and Gieves and Hawkes

Who is your style icon ?

My style icons are anyone who are not afraid to express themselves through their own individual style. I see them everyday all around me were ever I go

Tell us something no one else knows ?

I would love to be a professional chef in another life

What piece of style advise do you live by ?

Be yourself and dress by your own codes- don’t try too hard

What piece of clothing would you relegate to Room 101 ?

The track suit to room 101 !

How did you get into the industry, what was your big break ?

An internship at Giorgio Armani

In your words, describe the collection ?

Elegant, textural, tailored, rich, Savile row revisited, British twist

If you could give your teenage self advice, what would it be ?

Don’t rush growing up- enjoy the moment

Gieves & Hawkes Spring 2014

London Collections:Men – Highlights – Autumn/Winter 2015

London Collections:Men – Show Review – Spring/Summer 2015 – Part I

London Collections:Men Show Review Autumn/Winter 2014 Pt II

London Collections:Men Show Review Autumn/Winter 2014 Pt I

Jason Basmajian for Gieves & Hawkes

Gieves & Hawkes Spring 2014

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