Kim Jones Archives - CLOTHES MAKE THE MAN

by Keanu Adorable

Louis Vuitton will present an exclusive preview of their collaboration with Japanese creative Hiroshi Fujiwara’s acclaimed label Fragment Design, with a pop-up boutique located inside Harrod’s department store in London.

Centred around on a fictional band, Louis V and The Fragments the collaboration reflects their stage wardrobe and merchandise.“Hiroshi is an influencer in the trust sense of the work – he is a true icon of mine,” said Louis Vuitton’s Artistic Director Kim Jones. “With this collaboration, I wanted to do something quite unexpected, something perhaps more youthful than we usually do.” The two first met over twenty years ago and, with this collaboration, their shared passions for pop culture, graphic motifs, sportswear history and the icons of menswear design merge, uniting references from Paris to Tokyo.

The collection revolves around varsity items, and fresh bold embroideries and prints. An F for Fragment patch and motif decorate outerwear and knitwear. Accessories are playful; Boy Scout patches, rainbow metallic pins and varsity patches that draw on icons from the Louis Vuitton archive. Headwear encompasses a ranger hat and, in a nod to the eccentric styles of the 1980’s Paris-Tokyo beret. The pop-up at Harrods will offer a variety of items from the collection including leather goods, ready-to-wear, shoes and accessories, as well as exclusive items offered only in the pop-up.

The pop-up will be located on the lower ground floor in Harrod’s department store and unveiled to the public on April 27th for three weeks.

Take a look at the collection online at Louis Vuitton’s website uk.louisvuitton.com

Bonjour my petit pois ! We have the last of out previews from the European Style Capitals for this season, well for next season but let’s not confuse matters. This time as though it needed an introduction, of course, the city of lurve, Paris.

First, for our delectation is one of the oldest Fashion Houses and hottest tickets for all Paris Menswear Shows, Louis Vuitton, under the style direction of uber talented Brit Kim Jones. Jones has shown he’s not only come along way since his collaborations as a young Designer with the like of TOPMAN and sports brand Umbro, but has finely tuned his talents to produce some of the most sublime collections in recent years from the house of Vuitton. For Autumn/Winter 14 the trend driven show wasn’t as obviously as past seasons, opting for letting the Clothes do the talking, but was loosely inspired by Kim’s trip to the Atacama Desert of South America.

Louis Vuitton

On to one of the busiest men of the Paris Men’s shows Kris Van Assche, with the first of his two presentations of the week, up first is his own signature collection. Here we shown a totally wearable and rather commercial range from Van Assche, offering us colour, patterns in herringbone and eye catching dizzy dots.

Kris Van Assche

Then with a hop, skip and literal jump over to the second of Monsieur Van Assche’s collections, told you he was busy, in Dior Homme. Where if we were in any doubt as to his Dotty tendencies, they were confirmed here. We were offered them in Suits, shirts, shoes, ties, honestly you name it, it was covered in dots, but please don’t be put off, he managed to pull this off, to quote Mr Kenny Everett, it was all done in the best possible taste !

Dior Homme

Now then, Ami’s, Alexandre Mattiussi continues his assault on being the favourite label of choice among the style press and it isn’t surprising as to why. He’s proving to be a Jedi Master in the art of producing collections that have that simply, unassuming, stylish charm about them, but all the time screaming, your life won’t be complete without me in it !

Ami

Into the final straights, we have a name who over the past couple of seasons has been making a lot of the right noises while showing in Milan, but for this season has made the move to Paris. Turkish born, Umit Benan, each season, selects a character to base his collection around. In the past, we have seen such inspiration as the taxi drivers of his home Capital Istanbul, or Vintage Rockers or even Investment Banker. However, this season we looked to, Jackie Robinson, who? The first African Amercian Baseball Star. So the presentation had a very 1940’s feel to it from the political references to the lack of freedom Robinson had to put up way at this time.

Umit Benan

And so to the final of our designers, we started with a Brit designing for a French Fashion house and we finish with a British Designer showing in Paris. No less then Sir Paul Smith, who relaxed his silhouettes this season and drew inspiration for his collection from one could say, another iconic figure, in Jim Morrison. So no surprises when I tell you there was a distinct ROCK feeling to Smith’s show.

Paul Smith

Well, its been quite a week for the French Fashion house, of Louis Vuitton, firstly they announce, former Balenciaga creative visionaire, Nicholas Ghesquière as Artistic Director of its women’s collections, with immediate effect. Ghesquière commented at the briefing: “Louis Vuitton has always incarnated for me the symbol of ultimate luxury, innovation and exploration. I am very honored of the mission that I am entrusted with, and proud to join the history of this great Maison. We share common values and a vision. I can’t wait to join the team. Together we will build the future of the brand while preserving its precious heritage.”

Now if that wasn’t enough, today, the gallic luxury uber-brand will inaugurate a new store, the Louis Vuitton Townhouse, located in the renowned department store, Selfridges. Built over 3 inter-connecting floors, the Townhouse follows a new architectural concept by the French-born and internationally acclaimed designer and former RCA student, Gwenaël Nicolas, whose past clients have included Issey Miyake and Lexus.

Through this unique space the brand promise their clientele a unique journey of surprise and discovery, a real dialogue between modernity and tradition inside the largest European department store-based destination. This is achieved by such features as the symbolic spiral structure which rises through the historical building. The ground floor will showcase the new collections of leather goods, accessories and travel items, with a dedicated and interactive digital platform of personalisation – a worldwide first for Louis Vuitton. Crafted glass art pieces become a striking background for the Vuitton leather collections including city bags, luggage and hard-sided pieces as well as the Maison’s iconic special orders and Mon Monogram.

Further into the store, a state-of-the-art circular elevator is revealed, which connects the upper floors. The short journey inside the elevator reveals a head-turning surprise as the glass structure gently spins inside a glass tube, following the movement of the spiral construction and offering an experience like no other. The amber brown patterns which are designed to evoking memories of sunset lights, are the prefect setting, for the first floor presents, for the first time the full Mens ready-to-wear, shoes and accessories collections presented by the in-house mens designer, Kim Jones, and is contrasted by strong patinated glass elements.

Carven Menswear AW13

After we bid a fond Arrivedercci to Milano, its Paris, the city of love’s turn to show us its wares. Carven, was first off and also a first for them to host a Menswear Catwalk Show, it blended contemporary office wear with vintage ski attire, perfect for the weather at the moment. The collection offered beautiful tailoring and everything a modern man could possible yearn from his wardrobe. However, I’m really not sure the trouser length of just below the knee will catch on, them poor models’ll catch their death !

Louis Vuitton Menswear AW13

Over to Louis Vuitton next, where the Men’s Style Director Kim Jones transported us to the Himalayas offering us all sorts of animal prints and pelts. British Art duo Dinos and Jake Chapman, one of Jones’s Favourite artists, worked with him on a number of motifs across the collection, including their “Garden in Hell” which appeared on tuxedos, luggage and pyjamas. What more could a well travelled gentleman ask for ?

Maison Martin Margiela Menswear AW13

Maison Martin Margiela, was the next port of call and offered a brilliantly cast show showcasing gentlemen full of gallic charm and character. Although I love the wearability, usually, of this brand, sometimes I find it a little lost on me and I’m sure I’m not solo on this. Why ruin a great double breasted suit by making it into a jumpsuit or trash loads of vintage biker jackets to make a cape, which wouldn’t have been out of place on a horror film villain ? But on the whole, I still love what Martin does in his Maison.

Riccardo Tisci for Givenchy Menswear AW13

As Christopher Kane looked to his dark side in the form of Franenstein’s Monster for his Autumn 2013 collection, now it was the turn of Riccardo Tisci for Givenchy. The candles laid out around the catwalk gave a seance feel to the proceeding and one hoped this wasn’t an omen for the range. Not at all in fact Tisci, interpreted, in a rather gothic fashion, the images of American artist Robert Mapplethorpe using monochrome tones. Plus, loved the styling tip of tying your jacket around your waist, bring it on !

Ami by Alexandre Mattiussi Menswear AW13

Ami is quickly establishing itself as a label of choice for those in the know and its really not difficult to see why the label designed by Alexandre Mattiussi is doing so well. Its success, like main key brand of the moment in its ease, easy to wear, easy to put together, easy to outfit build which in turn makes your life easier. The show’s set was staged to be the morning’s commuter train, where sharp dressed chaps made their way to the grind.

And to, what has to be the most anticipated event for seasons, the last show of the schedule, an unmistakable Parisian Fashion house with a new name, kinda, with a new designer, kind of…..Saint Laurent by Hedi Slimane. His first menswear show, well his second as he was at the house for a short time back in 2000, but now he’s back and in a big way and….. Well, and not a great deal, nothing we hadn’t seen before and nothing you couldn’t pick up elsewhere for a fraction of the price. I want to leave it there as I believe Hedi Slimane is a great talent and look forward to seeing what he produces for next season, as we have to remember this is the man who caused literally a revolution in mens clothing, in what we wear and how we wore it, back at Dior Homme.

Louis Vuitton x Fragment Design Collaboration Harrods Pop Up

Homme Mode à Paris – Paris Menswear Show Review AW14

Home is where the LV heart is – The new Louis Vuitton Townhouse at Selfridges

Paris Menswear Shows Autumn/Winter 2013

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