A Great British brand – Kent & Curwen Spring/Summer 2018

WORDS BY KEANU ADORABLE

Every man in Britain has, at some point in his life, been part of a team. Whether at school, in a club or perhaps through a sub-culture movement –Mods, Punks or Skaters – teams are part of modern tribal society, defined by a uniform and a dress code. It is how each team-member interprets these codes
to express individuality and personality that became the inspiration for Kent & Curwen’s Spring-Summer 2018 Collection.

Looking at images from past decades of Oxford and Cambridge sporting teams, Creative Director, Daniel Kearns and Business Partner, David Beckham were particularly interested in the way those gentlemen mixed items of clothing to make a sartorial statement. For inspiration they also explored archive
imagery from the 1948 Austerity Games in London, where British Olympians were required to provide their own kit, thereby defining their own national uniform, united by the Union Jack badge worn by all.

For this season, the brand took the traditional British summer dress codes and adapted to bring an edge to a gentleman’s wardrobe in the modern era. This is a collection of respectful yet re-imagined sportswear that blurs the boundary between old and new, worn with a British nonchalance. Oversized striped and brocaded Regatta Blazers in silk and cotton silk, badged with the 1926 Rose of England, is dressed down with a mismatching college scarf, tennis shorts, long striped socks and plimsolls or up with matching trousers, a frayed-edge cardigan and detachable collar shirt for a decadent, sporting take on deconstructed tailoring.

Cricketing attire, the foundation of the brand in the 20’s and 30’s, is referenced through a more creative lens. The cricket jumper is re-imagined and refashioned as a seasonal statement or presented as frayed-edged and lived-in like an old locker room favourite. Cricketing trousers morph into track-pants worn wide and long with tennis shoes for a decisively informal silhouette.

Shop the collection now at Kent & Curwen and Mr Porter

Upgrade Your Wardrobe For Autumn/Winter – 6 of the best Tennis Sweaters

Words by Keanu Adorable

Even though most of us are basking in the sunlight this summer, the autumn leaves and winter breeze is just around the corner, and it’s time of that year again to start layering up to battle the ruthless weather – which is a perfect excuse to go treat yourself to acquire new garments. Why not upgrade your current wardrobe with a brand new sweater?  but not just any sweater, tennis sweaters.

Here at Clothes Make The Man, we love it when preppy menswear classics get a modern twist with its silhouette. These items lose its blandness, and sometimes outdated roots which give the wearer an updated yet smart look, thanks to their face-framing and shoulder-broadening diagonal collar stripes. These bold V-neck knits look just as good over jeans and a tee as they do when layered with your favourite suit or slim chinos. Even if you don’t play tennis, you can still feel like Roger Federer no matter how bad your backhand is. Here are our top 6 picks for you to check out.

Orley Wide Trim V-Neck

Gucci Webbing-Trimmed Wool Sweater

Wimbledon Ralph Lauren V-Neck Sweatshirt

Wimbledon Ralph Lauren Sweater

Dries Van Noten Contrast-Tipped Merino Wool Sweater

Dries Van Noten Sweater

 

London Collections:Men – Show Review – Spring/Summer 2015 – Part I

The wise scholar, and sometime fashion raconteur, Mr Kanye West OBE, once said, ” Work it harder, make it better,
do it faster, makes us stronger”. 
Which sums up the latest  instalment of London Collections:Men for Spring/Summer 2015, I know Summer 2014 has barely shown us it’s beautiful face and I’m talking about 2015, well that’s Fashion for ya. Anyway, we are back in London and it’s a packed schedule from YMC to KTZ to DKNY, this gives Anthony very little TLC and it’s down to work. We give you the best overview, of what is becoming THE Fashion eventing the calendar. With international name like MOSCHINO, Tiger of Sweden and of course DKNY throwing that very sartorial hat into the ring, London’s becoming a Cosmopolitan hotbed of talent.

imageHowever, first up we have, the irrepressible but more importantly lovely Lou Dalton. For this season Ms Dalton has taken a bit of a risky change in direction, but boy did it pay off ! We saw a more mature, confident and stylish collection. The tailoring, Sportwear fusion was still present but everything felt, tighter (not physical), sharper and generally more impressive. Keep up the good work Dalton A*.

imageNext up, the first of many zig zagging around the capital, to Kent and Curwen, the second season for the brand to be showing as part of LC:M. It has come a long way since launching as a modest collection of ties and cricket sweaters and has grown into one of the most sought after sporting brands in the country. The Brand further fused their take on English dress codes with that juxtaposition of graphic patterns, which mixed with their casting gave a feeling of David Bowie’s thin white Duke.

imageHardy Amies, (above) like its Savile Row neighbour, Gieves & Hawkes (below) showed a blinder of a Masterclass in Great British Tailoring, cool, contemporary but above all wearable. Exquisite ! Plus with the likes of Richard James, E.Tautz and Hackett. It doesn’t take a genius to see why the UK, and London has regained it’s crown for being THE destination for suiting.

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imageFrom some of the oldest names in British style to one of the more newer ones in, Christopher Raeburn, who gave his very unique take on Military. Working with a traditional regimental colour palette, Raeburn worked in Fighter jets and missile prints and showed he improves and builds season upon season.

imageNot only was Jonathan Saunders showing us his signature collection but in the exhibition space we saw his GREAT Second season collaboration with Lyle & Scott,  which was based on the Shane Meadow’s film of the Stone Roses Reunion, Made of Stone. Additionally to this they also showed their other sterling collaborative effort with Universal Works. Plus to Cap off the collaboration craziness area was the BEAUITFUL  range by Barbour X White Mountaineering, (above) one to definitely keep an eye out for.

Oliver Spencer, continues with his successful formula of producing wearable, timeless, pieces that form part an impeccable wardrobe. Last season we had Idris Elba providing the entertainment on the decks. This season Olie followed suit and as the eyes of the world focuses of Brazil he had the UK’s foremost Brazilian percussion group supply the entertainment, complete with Carnival dancing girls ! Somewhat a highlight of the day.image

London Collections:Men Show Review Autumn/Winter 2014 Pt II

Christopher Kane

Christopher Kane

So after yesterday’s plethora of delights that enthralled us,  what do we have for you today. Well, we can quite safely say COLOUR is the major  trend for Autumn, but you could retort with, so what’s new ? What’s new is that we have seen pretty much every colour of the Rainbow from the darker more somber tones as een in TOPMAN Design and the monochromes of Agi & Sam to the racier hues of Richard Nicoll, Jonathan Saunders and of course Christopher Kane, who offered a box of delights to keep any man happy no matter his taste from sober to total intoxication. Kane has expanded his collection to include a more formal element right the way through to his signature patterns and knits in amazing and engaging tones.

Hackett

Hackett

Next stop was the Freemasons Hall in Holborn for the Hackett Show, some what of a British institution holding it’s show within another British institution. The Freemason’s was a spectacular venue for the staging of this grand hotel themed setting. It was like a game of Guess Who, with leading men under the guise of the Explorer, The Graduate, the CEO and travel photographer, to name a few. In short everything was right about this show, in trying to select a picture to illustrate this show, it was so difficult as I liked one shot, then another and another.

E.Tautz

E.Tautz

As always I like to gauge the opinion of learned colleagues, up first this season, is The StyleKing himself, Gary Kingsnorth, who described Patrick Grant’s E.Tautz as, “The highlight of LC:M was E.Tautz for me, a collection that was strong and contemporary.Inspired by the artwork of William Hogarth that was brought bang up date was a compelling collection to watch on the catwalk .”
Kent & Curwen

Kent & Curwen

Another house of tradition with its roots firmly entrenched in formalwear, but somewhat commencing a transformation, since the appointment of  new Creative Director, by golly there all at it, Simon Spurr is Kent & Curwen. He bought us a range inspired by Naval dress uniform, where he has reinterpretation and juxtaposition of iconic pieces.
Burberry Prorsum

Burberry Prorsum

So  from one brand ringing in the changes to the ultimate brand who have completely turned themselves around, Burberry. Christopher Bailey for Burberry Prorsum, used London again as inspiration, in the second season of showing at LC:M he embraced the London Autumnal weather and used Leaf prints on Scarf, shirts and coats. Plus, if anyone can make that other very British of garment, the string vest cool again surely it has to be Bailey ?

Christopher Shannon

Christopher Shannon

The second of our contributing opinion formers comes from one of the pioneers in men’s style blogging, Marcus Jaye, otherwise known as TheChicGeek,  who felt, “Think my favourite show was Christopher Shannon. Really took it to the next level with ideas and the finish. Kept his sportswear look that he is known for, but gave others, who aren’t necessarily into that look , something like the fag packet knits or the bomber jackets.”

A.Sauvage

A.Sauvage

And finally, we come all too quickly to the end of another LC:M  and what better way to finish this review of the best of the best then with Mr Adrien Sauvage. Who presented his envious and effortlessly cool take on style from rocking formalwear to rock inspired casual wear.