CLOTHES MAKE THE MAN
The extraordinary mens blog for the modern man
/

The Hedi heights of Fashion – Saint Laurent Duffle Bag

Screen Shot 2013-03-25 at 17.56.08

Hedi Slimane

Even if you have no interest in Style and Fashion and having been living under a very unstylish rock for the last couple of months, you surely must have, one, heard that the Parisian iconic Fashion house of Yves Saint Laurent have changed their name to simply Saint Laurent and two, the aforementioned house has a new Creative Director, in the uber talented and enigmatic designer come sometime photographer, Hedi Slimane, non ?

The appointment of Slimane to Saint Laurent has created a media frenzy, not just in the world of Men’s Fashion, as while he was Creative Director of Menswear at the House of Christian Dior  his female fans included Madonna and Nicole Kidman, even though his collections were primarily Homme. Additional to this, is his love of music and young, up and coming artists. Over the years Hedi has worked with everyone from, Razorlight and Daft Punk to the man of the “moment” David Bowie and during his sabbatical from designing, which saw Slimane return to his first love of photography where he shoot for such publications as French Vogue, V-Man and Purple.

So, like folk waiting outside Willy Wonka’s Chocolate Factory, with bated breathe,  people in the same way have been looking for glimpses of what he will produce and what pieces will look like. Well, (if only I could sound a fanfare) I can reveal Slimane’s first bag.

314503_BOF0J_1000_A-ysl-saint-laurent-paris-women-medium-duffle-bag-in-black-leather

/

Paris Menswear Shows Autumn/Winter 2013

Ami Menswear AW13

Carven Menswear AW13

After we bid a fond Arrivedercci to Milano, its Paris, the city of love’s turn to show us its wares. Carven, was first off and also a first for them to host a Menswear Catwalk Show, it blended contemporary office wear with vintage ski attire, perfect for the weather at the moment. The collection offered beautiful tailoring and everything a modern man could possible yearn from his wardrobe. However, I’m really not sure the trouser length of just below the knee will catch on, them poor models’ll catch their death !

Louis Vuitton Menswear AW13

Louis Vuitton Menswear AW13

Over to Louis Vuitton next, where the Men’s Style Director Kim Jones transported us to the Himalayas offering us all sorts of animal prints and pelts. British Art duo Dinos and Jake Chapman, one of Jones’s Favourite artists,  worked with him on a number of motifs across the collection, including their “Garden in Hell” which appeared on tuxedos, luggage and pyjamas. What more could a well travelled gentleman ask for ?

Maison Martin Margiela Menswear AW13

Maison Martin Margiela Menswear AW13

Maison Martin Margiela, was the next port of call and offered a brilliantly cast show showcasing gentlemen full of gallic charm and character. Although I love the wearability, usually, of this brand, sometimes I find it a little lost on me and I’m sure I’m not solo on this. Why ruin a great double breasted suit by making it into a jumpsuit or trash loads of vintage biker jackets to make a cape, which wouldn’t have been out of place on a horror film villain ? But on the whole, I still love what Martin does in his Maison.

Riccardo Tisci for Givenchy Menswear AW13

Riccardo Tisci for Givenchy Menswear AW13

As Christopher Kane looked to his dark side in the form of Franenstein’s Monster for his Autumn 2013 collection, now it was the turn of Riccardo Tisci for Givenchy. The candles laid out around the catwalk gave a seance feel to the proceeding and one hoped  this wasn’t an omen for the range. Not at all in fact Tisci, interpreted, in a rather gothic fashion, the images of American artist Robert Mapplethorpe using monochrome tones. Plus, loved the styling tip of tying your jacket around your waist, bring it on !

Ami by Alexandre Mattuisuu

Ami by Alexandre Mattiussi Menswear AW13

Ami is quickly establishing itself as a label of choice for those in the know and its really not difficult to see why the label designed by Alexandre Mattiussi is doing so well. Its success, like main key brand of the moment in its ease, easy to wear, easy to put together, easy to outfit build which in turn makes your life easier. The show’s set was staged to be the morning’s commuter train, where sharp dressed chaps made their way to the grind.

And to, what has to be the most anticipated event for seasons, the last show of the schedule, an unmistakable Parisian Fashion house with a new name, kinda, with a new designer, kind of…..Saint Laurent by Hedi Slimane. His first menswear show, well his second as he was at the house for a short time back in 2000, but now he’s back and in a big way and….. Well, and not a great deal, nothing we hadn’t seen before and nothing you couldn’t pick up elsewhere for a fraction of the price. I want to leave it there as I believe Hedi Slimane is a great talent and look forward to seeing what he produces for next season, as we have to remember this is the man who caused literally a revolution in mens clothing, in what we wear and how we wore it, back at Dior Homme.