Paris Menswear Shows Highlights – Autumn/Winter 2015

imageWe arrive in the final destination on our round up of the male Fashion weeks for Autumn/Winter 2015. Bonjour Paris and we start the proceedings off with a brand not short on that certain  Je ne said quoi, yes Louis Vuitton and what a way to start. Kim Jones just seems to be going from strength to strength during his tenure with the Luxury Power house. He drew his inspiration this season, on a personal hero, in the shape of British Designer Christopher Nemeth who was relatively unknown outside of Japan. He interpreted four of Nemeth’s signature prints and at the same time managed to work them expertly into the Vuitton aesthetic, that only he could have achieved to such a high level. Once again leaving everyone, a baited for next season to see what magic he may conjure.

imageNext up, onto a designer who left me agog with the beauty of his collection, Junya Watanabe, who based the look of his Autumn/Winter 2015 collection on the sub culture of the ‘sappers’ the nattily dressed gentlemen from the Congo. Think, those immaculately dressed dandies of 1930’s Harlem in their Sunday Best fit for Church and an audience with God himself. Nonetheless, this was no retro obsessed collection, this was modernity personified.

imageThen to Riccardo Tisci’s Givenchy, we saw a departure from the sweatshirts and Tees which have made the Fashion brand such a favourite of the likes of Professor Green through to Kanye West in recent years and a move towards the formal roots of the Parisian house. However, this was a dark and eerie at time unnerving presentation by Tisci and the Devil was literally in the detail.

Madison Kitsune

Madison Kitsune

Paul & Joe

Paul & Joe

Ami may not have the heritage of some of the other players on the Paris schedule but it nonetheless delivers and leaves you wanting to run backstage and put an order in with them there and then, not having to wait 6 or so months before it hits the stores and websites. It offers impeccably desirable clothes that you just want. Another French brand able to entice us with such wearable and interesting ranges is Carven offering up a more boxy and sculpted silhouette this season. Relative new comers are Maison Kitsune the duo of Masaya Kuroki and Gildas Loaec, think of this like a pseudoFrench Alban, where they leave you wanting literally every piece from the collection from suiting to Tote bag. The thing all these brands have in common is their comforting lack of avant garde, there is no danger you may need the lookbook just to know have to wear an outfit from these brands but you can rest assure you still know, you look the bis when wearing their wares. This is the same with Paul & Joe, this is not a tricksy brand, where from season to season you’re not quite sure what you might see or get from them. This is a true bastion of wearable apparel.

imageKris Van Assche for Dior Homme, seemed to run his show in reverse this season opting to start the presentation with formal attire in tuxedos in various forms then moving between smart and smart casual throughout. Mixing that juxtaposition of high formal then throwing in denim, a baseball cap, trainers or maybe even all three, just because he can.

imageNext we have the Luxury house of Luxury Houses, Hermes offering a Masterclass in the modern male’s wardrobe and what it SHOULD contain for every possible eventuality, whether that be a business meeting or what to wear for that all important down time, Veronique Nichanian had it covered to a tee, T-shirt that is.

imageLike Hermes, Alber Elbaz over at Lanvin did his take on what a the contemporary man needs for his functional wardrobe. He divided it into uniform sections which included, pinstripes, tweeds in grey, country plaids, army coats and military jackets.

imagePenultimately, we have Sir Paul Smith flying the flag for British Sartorialism on the continent. Like so many brands this season he too has adopted the maxim of Orange is the new Black or maybe he’s been watching too much Netflix, either way we have seen everyone from Christopher Raeburn to Missoni, Moschino and Vivienne Westwood all take on the sunshine hue. Smith looked back to move forward this season and saught his design team to plunder his archive of decades of hoarding.

Finally we have Umit Benan who like Pablo Copolla for Bally seems to have been inspired by the films of Wes Anderson. Rather than the The Royal Tenenbaums, Benan appears to have emmerised himself in ‘The Life aquatic’ as whether is was fishing rods or bucket hats his models possessed some element of fishing paraphernalia. But at no time did Umit collection veer to the realms of silliness or gimmick.

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The Buyer’s Guide to Spring 2014 – Adrian Gibson – Harvey Nichols

imageOK, OK I know it feels like Spring might be a bit premature but I promise, if we really think positive thoughts, I’m sure it’ll come. Anyway, the subject of today’s Buyer’s Guide has over 20 years’ experience buying for luxury Department Stores, having worked at both Selfridges and Harrods. During his eight years at the ‘Town House Boutique’, Harvey Nichols, he has bought a repertoire of Menswear for the retailer. Harvey Nichols as a retailer, currently has stores in London, Leeds, Birmingham, Edinburgh, Manchester and Bristol in the UK and internationally Dublin, Riyadh, Hong Kong, Dubai, Turkey and Kuwait. The London flagship store is located in the heart of Knightsbridge, London’s most fashionable and exclusive shopping district. But, more importantly back to the  person in question, Mr Adrian Gibson, today he specialises in the Casual and Diffusion Collections, while continuing to introduce new and innovate brands into the Denim Gallery. So what is his top buys for Spring 14 ?

imageThere have been a lot of Animal themed prints in the last fewseason but I think this one is cleverly executed and is a great accessible price point by A Question Of

imageThis beautiful laser cut trench is from New brand to HN for SS14 Herno who produce understated but technically brilliant outerwear from Italy

imageHN (Harvey Nichols) welcomes back Versus Versace for SS14 starting with singer MIA’s collaboration which is printastic with the main collection arriving shortly.

imageThe move on from the Tiger this season at Kenzo is the Waveas shown on this knit … although we still have plenty of Tigers in new colour ways if you haven’t got one yet

imageThis Canada Goose jacket is in collaboration MulitmediaArtist Eepmon who designed the elaborate lining to this jacket.  Only 150 of the jackets made worldwide and the jacket is Exclusive to HN in the UK

imageI am a total sneaker collector and these McQueen Skull & Lace plimsolls are definitely on my list for Summer  ‘14

imageThe homage to super brand Givenchy continues … Love this update of the Star print with Summer Rose print

imageWe adore the quality and perfection of the Psycho Bunny Polo and this time finished off in attention grabbing Large Gold Bunny … Exclusive to HN in the UK is going to get you noticed

imageSweatshirts are my garment of choice at the moment and I think Neil Barrett’s are one of the most desirable … Colour blocked and sporty

imageBrand new in to HN but also Bang on trend … Amazing design and practical efficiency by Kris Van Assche

Not tonight lads its Gentlemen only – Gentlemen Only the new fragrance from Givenchy

Gentlemen Only 100mlNo its not some grand mahogany door clad, pretentious media hungry private members club, no this a universal club with no door policy, no discriminatory management and no silly meetings in front of a panel of po faced harridans to gain membership. You don’t have to be born with a silver spoon perched in ones mouth or a case of who you know not what you know. This is a club where you will recognise its members by smell alone, as Givenchy, the French Power Fashion House launches its new Gentlemen Only fragrance.

The Scent uses a mix of the finest essences and natural ingredients. It starts with giving off  an aromatic and spicy freshness, created by a blend of green mandarin orange, pink peppercorns, nutmeg and birch leaves. Then its depth is revealed by trio of cedar, patchouli and vetiver before a powerful charm of of incense hits you.

Each element of this fragrance has been thought through, the bottle is classic and yet contemporary, reminding you of a

Actor, Simon Barker Face of Gentlemen Only by Givenchy

Actor, Simon Barker Face of Gentlemen Only by Givenchy

gentleman’s hip flask and the thick glass bottom is reminiscent of a paper weight you would find on the desk of a man of the world. The House of Givenchy has thought long and hard as to who could epitomise the elements of what encapsulates this scent and what it is all about and they choose the Australian actor, Simon Barker, currently seen in the film, “I give it a year” and the investigator in the TV series “The Mentalist”. Barker is seen as a modern day gentleman in the same way as Jimmy Stewart and Cary Grant were in the Golden age of Hollywoods films.

 

Givenchy's 10 ways to spot a modern day Gentleman, are you one ?

Givenchy’s 10 ways to spot a modern day Gentleman, are you one ?

 

Paris Menswear Shows Autumn/Winter 2013

Ami Menswear AW13

Carven Menswear AW13

After we bid a fond Arrivedercci to Milano, its Paris, the city of love’s turn to show us its wares. Carven, was first off and also a first for them to host a Menswear Catwalk Show, it blended contemporary office wear with vintage ski attire, perfect for the weather at the moment. The collection offered beautiful tailoring and everything a modern man could possible yearn from his wardrobe. However, I’m really not sure the trouser length of just below the knee will catch on, them poor models’ll catch their death !

Louis Vuitton Menswear AW13

Louis Vuitton Menswear AW13

Over to Louis Vuitton next, where the Men’s Style Director Kim Jones transported us to the Himalayas offering us all sorts of animal prints and pelts. British Art duo Dinos and Jake Chapman, one of Jones’s Favourite artists,  worked with him on a number of motifs across the collection, including their “Garden in Hell” which appeared on tuxedos, luggage and pyjamas. What more could a well travelled gentleman ask for ?

Maison Martin Margiela Menswear AW13

Maison Martin Margiela Menswear AW13

Maison Martin Margiela, was the next port of call and offered a brilliantly cast show showcasing gentlemen full of gallic charm and character. Although I love the wearability, usually, of this brand, sometimes I find it a little lost on me and I’m sure I’m not solo on this. Why ruin a great double breasted suit by making it into a jumpsuit or trash loads of vintage biker jackets to make a cape, which wouldn’t have been out of place on a horror film villain ? But on the whole, I still love what Martin does in his Maison.

Riccardo Tisci for Givenchy Menswear AW13

Riccardo Tisci for Givenchy Menswear AW13

As Christopher Kane looked to his dark side in the form of Franenstein’s Monster for his Autumn 2013 collection, now it was the turn of Riccardo Tisci for Givenchy. The candles laid out around the catwalk gave a seance feel to the proceeding and one hoped  this wasn’t an omen for the range. Not at all in fact Tisci, interpreted, in a rather gothic fashion, the images of American artist Robert Mapplethorpe using monochrome tones. Plus, loved the styling tip of tying your jacket around your waist, bring it on !

Ami by Alexandre Mattuisuu

Ami by Alexandre Mattiussi Menswear AW13

Ami is quickly establishing itself as a label of choice for those in the know and its really not difficult to see why the label designed by Alexandre Mattiussi is doing so well. Its success, like main key brand of the moment in its ease, easy to wear, easy to put together, easy to outfit build which in turn makes your life easier. The show’s set was staged to be the morning’s commuter train, where sharp dressed chaps made their way to the grind.

And to, what has to be the most anticipated event for seasons, the last show of the schedule, an unmistakable Parisian Fashion house with a new name, kinda, with a new designer, kind of…..Saint Laurent by Hedi Slimane. His first menswear show, well his second as he was at the house for a short time back in 2000, but now he’s back and in a big way and….. Well, and not a great deal, nothing we hadn’t seen before and nothing you couldn’t pick up elsewhere for a fraction of the price. I want to leave it there as I believe Hedi Slimane is a great talent and look forward to seeing what he produces for next season, as we have to remember this is the man who caused literally a revolution in mens clothing, in what we wear and how we wore it, back at Dior Homme.