Christopher Bailey Archives - CLOTHES MAKE THE MAN

We start this season’s round up of all matters of a Sartorial nature in London and what better place to get the ball rolling than at an honest to goodness PUB QUIZ !!! OK with a rather stylish twist to it, in that it’s compare was Hacienda DJing Legend Mr Elliot Eastwick and it was organised by the Savile Row Tailoring trailblazers that are Cad & The Dandy, only in London.

TOPMAN DESIGN

Bright and breezy, otherwise known as flipping freezing, start to the day, but a warm reception was waiting at the TOPMAN Design show which was piled high with Northern Soul references, like being at a Wigan Pier Weekender. There was nods to The Bay City Rollers, Mark Boland right the way through to James Hunt and any show that finishes with Crazy Horses by The Osmonds is a winner in my books.

I was spoilt for choice on the first day of LC:M with a number of fave brands showing their wares but high points had to be David Keyte’s Universal Works, offering us a conceptual performance, which can go either way for me. But it didn’t disappoint, working on the principle upon which the brand is founded, the idea of Passing on, not in an deathly kinda way but how clothing can be passed on from being old to young and in doing so can be reinvented and reinvigorated.

One of my overall highlights of the entire schedule has to be the Barbour Presentation, which showcased the second season of their wonderful collaboration with the Japan company White Mountaineering, best summed

Barbour

up by the unique, Thank God, Mr Richard Gray, of The Sunday Times STYLE;

“I guess this collab is Tokyo cool meets Prince Charles or something like that. I spoke to Aiwaze San the designer of White Mountaineering, who told me the wax you see, which makes a Barbour jacket waterproof, was the Gortex of its day. And, in fact, it works as well as any new scientific development. Including Gortex. I look forward to the day the Royal Family wear White Mountaineering.“

Hackett

Then what a way to finish off the first day then to head over to one of London’s hidden architectural gems, No 2 Temple Place for a spot of dinner and to look at some exquisite attire by none other than Hackett, entitled, ‘Sheep, Shape and London Fashion’, this capsule collection paid homage to the prestigious longstanding textile mills of Britain. The 12 looks were an amalgamation of different checks and patterns in the finest British wools.

The second day started off with a great breathe of fresh air in the shape of the LC:M Exhibition, this never fails to impress me and I always fall head of heals for at least one brand this season my head couldn’t help being turned by the wonderful Gloverall and then the cashmere delights of ESK, this just has to be British craftsmanship at its best. And from one great example to another with Mr Nigel Calbourn who is never swayed by the short lived trends of Fashions but driven by inspirational stories of real people in history and vintage military, outdoor and work wear pieces.

Over then to Fraser Moss and YMC and once again I search the counsel of the ever wise Ms Sarah Gilfillan, contributor of this wonderful publication and founder of Sartorialab.co.uk ;

“I’ve always loved their simple understated look, and I particularly liked the clever layering and outerwear. The mixture of taloring with sportswear inspired pieces like the drawstring trousers takes me right back to the 90’s when they first started .I find their collections are minimal enough in design to appeal to the everyday man but they always have a subtle point of difference so they’re never boring. I have no doubt I’ll be buying many of these items with my clients next season and I can’t wait!”

Hardy Amies

Moving on to a brand which, to quote Messers Daft Punk and Williams, “Like a Phoenix from the ashes” WOW I can quite simply sum the Hardy Amies collection as, Beautiful clothes, where you find yourself wanting piece after piece.

Christopher Raeburn

Much like Mr Christopher Raeburn, who like Nigel Cabourn draws greatly on the great outdoors and nature in all its beauty for their inspiration and once again he does fail to impress. This season utilising Royal Navy rafts as his material of choice.

Belstaff

Now stay with me here, but I had my reservations when I headed towards an underground car park, not a million miles away from The House of Commons. Surely I must have taken a wrong turn, it wouldn’t have been the first time and this can hardly be classed as a glamorous setting for a stylish presentation for a brand like Belstaff ? Well, as I see Fashion Royalty like Ms Suzy Menkes, Mr Edward Enniful and Ms Caroline Rush spilling out of it, I can’t be wrong. Belstaff, took its inspiration from the ‘Ton-Up Boys’ of the 1950s. Heavily into their rock‘n’roll and motorcycles, these ‘greasers’ would rendezvous at cafés and attempt to ‘do a ton’ (exceed speeds of 100mph) on their custom-made bikes, both fearless and reckless in their stylish pursuit.

Casely-Hayford

Moving into the straits now we had a blinder of a show from Father and Son duo Joe and Charlie Casely-Hayford. Set to a sound track of Bjork and Bowie a tribe of Stylish Outsiders did the honours for u. Mixing Oranges and Pinks seamlessly with Blacks and Navy to create a riveting colour palette.

E.Tautz

Opening to a surmon by his Holiness Pope John Paul II isn’t the most obvious start to an E.Tautz show but give Patrick Grant his dues it certainly got the audience’s attention in what Grant called his most personal collection so far, for the Savile Row house. Every coat and piece of outerwear he sent out was one you lushes and craved for already, no brights or pastels for Grant this season only monochrome in his highly wearable colour spectrum.

Tom Ford

Now here’s the battle of the big boys of LC:M, the Texan and the Yorkshire lad, up first we have Tom Ford who showed us a much more causal side to him, which I have to say I’d really not expected to see which included jeans and trainers, I lie to you not ! Then we have Christopher Bailey in the Burberry Check corner, offering us Classical Bohemian in ponchos, florals and paisley, fresh off a hazy trip back in time to India.

Well, there you have it for another season next stop Milan, ding, ding !

So after yesterday’s instalment of LC:M for Spring Summer 2015 we conclude it with highlights from such illustrious brand as Burberry, Tom Ford and MOSCHINO !

As in past seasons, I like, for both of our sakes, to ask the opinion of leading figures within this industry, in fact the third largest in the country, if statistics are to be believed, and this season is no different. Let’s start with Mr David Heyes, leading freelance Fashion Writer, who had to say the following regarding Christopher Bailey’s Burberry show.

“Christopher Bailey has got the Burberry formula down to a fine art. Put up a tent in the middle of one of London’s Royal parks, have your fingers crossed for sun, but don’t be too disappointed if it pours down – this is Britain’s heritage rainwear brand after all – and send of out loads of quite nice coats whatever the season. Spring/summer 2015 stuck to the script (no rain, just iPhone melting sunshine) but added a few surprises by way of off-beat colour – think poisonous greens and purples – and a mix of rich fabrics such as tonic suiting, plush velvet and superfine ‘ombre’ knits. Oh and some pretty cool rainbow hued trainers. The take away ideas for next season? Denim jackets buttoned to the top as a key layer under coats, duffle coats and cardigans yet again (surely timed to coincide with the new Paddington Bear movie?) and cute typographical prints that went someway to explain the show’s ‘Book covers and Bruce Chatwin’ title. What best to leave back in Burberry HQ? Those floppy felt hats of course.”

So from a British Power House to a Italian one, who we welcome with open arms, Moschino, and we asked the opinion of one of the rising stars of the publishing industry, in Ms Mandy Pang, grooming Editor of none other then Shortlist Magazine.

“Jeremy Scott has brought back the best of Moschino and the 90’s with bold logos and branding. His take on “counterfeits” of other major designer brands such a Louis Vuitton, Gucci and Armani as inspiration for the prints and designs were fun, in your face and made the whole show very tongue in cheek. The incorporation of power cut suits, netted vest tops, oversized print, a generous splattering of pop colour and a nod to popular cultural references meant that the collection also stayed true to it’s Moschino identity. It’s loud branding at it’s best!”

Keeping on that international tip and welcoming another new face to LC:M is Tiger of Sweden, we caught up with Neil Thornton, leading menswear blogger with The Science of Appearance, informed us .

“If there’s one thing that Tiger of Sweden do, and do very well, it’s the skinny suit. They totally own it and they know. For SS15, Tiger of Sweden showcase their best and most signature styles with seasonal updates. While not groundbreaking, which I don’t think it ever intends to be, Tiger of Sweden’s offering is slick and undeniably cool. Their staple palette of blacks and greys, that show the trends that will crossover into mainstream fashion, were interspersed with rust hues and leaf prints as well as the now synonymous baseball jerseys while trouser lengths stayed above the ankle. The collection is effortless and above all, totally wearable.”

Back to a Brit, well a Scotsman, in the form of Patrick Grant for his Savile Row Brand E.Tautz, for this I sort the opinion of UK’s leading men the world of Blogging, Simon Glazin of The Very Simon G who described the show as.

“I did actually love the school boy stripes from E Tautz and the big belt buckles on the trousers. It was clearly inspired by the 70s but without just throwing in flared trousers and psychedelic prints and we saw denim introduced for the first time which was fresh, minimal and wearable.”

Now last up but by no means least, is the Texan who every man in the know wants to be and every woman has a secret crush on Mr Tom Ford, for this man I had to turn to one of the biggest names in British men’s blogging, Marcus Jaye of The Chic Geek. Jaye summed up Tom’s Spring 2015 offering as.

“The big news from Tom Ford was the introduction of jeans. Made in USA, all 3 styles are fitted and made the whole look much younger.”

Christopher Kane

So after yesterday’s plethora of delights that enthralled us, what do we have for you today. Well, we can quite safely say COLOUR is the major trend for Autumn, but you could retort with, so what’s new ? What’s new is that we have seen pretty much every colour of the Rainbow from the darker more somber tones as een in TOPMAN Design and the monochromes of Agi & Sam to the racier hues of Richard Nicoll, Jonathan Saunders and of course Christopher Kane, who offered a box of delights to keep any man happy no matter his taste from sober to total intoxication. Kane has expanded his collection to include a more formal element right the way through to his signature patterns and knits in amazing and engaging tones.

Hackett

Next stop was the Freemasons Hall in Holborn for the Hackett Show, some what of a British institution holding it’s show within another British institution. The Freemason’s was a spectacular venue for the staging of this grand hotel themed setting. It was like a game of Guess Who, with leading men under the guise of the Explorer, The Graduate, the CEO and travel photographer, to name a few. In short everything was right about this show, in trying to select a picture to illustrate this show, it was so difficult as I liked one shot, then another and another.

E.Tautz

As always I like to gauge the opinion of learned colleagues, up first this season, is The StyleKing himself, Gary Kingsnorth, who described Patrick Grant’s E.Tautz as, “The highlight of LC:M was E.Tautz for me, a collection that was strong and contemporary.Inspired by the artwork of William Hogarth that was brought bang up date was a compelling collection to watch on the catwalk .”

Kent & Curwen

Another house of tradition with its roots firmly entrenched in formalwear, but somewhat commencing a transformation, since the appointment of new Creative Director, by golly there all at it, Simon Spurr is Kent & Curwen. He bought us a range inspired by Naval dress uniform, where he has reinterpretation and juxtaposition of iconic pieces.

Burberry Prorsum

So from one brand ringing in the changes to the ultimate brand who have completely turned themselves around, Burberry. Christopher Bailey for Burberry Prorsum, used London again as inspiration, in the second season of showing at LC:M he embraced the London Autumnal weather and used Leaf prints on Scarf, shirts and coats. Plus, if anyone can make that other very British of garment, the string vest cool again surely it has to be Bailey ?

Christopher Shannon

The second of our contributing opinion formers comes from one of the pioneers in men’s style blogging, Marcus Jaye, otherwise known as TheChicGeek, who felt, “Think my favourite show was Christopher Shannon. Really took it to the next level with ideas and the finish. Kept his sportswear look that he is known for, but gave others, who aren’t necessarily into that look , something like the fag packet knits or the bomber jackets.”

A.Sauvage

And finally, we come all too quickly to the end of another LC:M and what better way to finish this review of the best of the best then with Mr Adrien Sauvage. Who presented his envious and effortlessly cool take on style from rocking formalwear to rock inspired casual wear.

One could say how do you follow yesterday’s post
regarding the first half of SS14’s London Collection:Men
(sorry still don’t like the name), well the answer is simple with
the likes of Alexander McQueen, Oliver Spencer, Burberry and
Paul Smith. And so lets not waste any more of either of our time
and get underway with one of the aforementioned style giants,
in the form of the house of McQueen. Like yesterday, as I said,
rather then me churner on giving my twopence on every John,
Dick & Agi, I’ll let the leaders of the Style pack give it
to you. This time round Lee Holden, leading Menswear
Stylist gives us his take on the
Alexander McQueen Menswear show….
“It was great all black and white. Lots of surface
texture. Overlaid lace on suits. Brocade in black and white.
Edwardian silhouette. Long line jackets. Loads of parallel silk
shorts with cinchers on the sides of the knees”.

So from the royalty of McQueen we head to the equally regal
Oliver Spencer, with the PR’s on the
door whispering of a surprise and with Jesse Metcalfe, Dermot
O’Leary and David Gandy (of course) sat FROW the show can begin.
But who’s that walking to the Decks strategically placed in the
centre of the catwalk ???? None other then blicking, Luther
himself, Idris Elba !!!!! The show gets underway with as always a
character filled show, including Wretch 32 modelling. The
inspiration for this season’s collection was the early graffiti
work of the 1980’s Neo-expressionist painter Jean-Michel Basquiat,
with a colour palette of Faded Red, Amber and Sky Blue, anchored by
Navy.

Then its the schlep over to the banks of the River Thams and
Old Billingsgate Market, for the
Hackett show. All things 1960’s proved
to inspire Jeremy Hackett for this Collection, particularly the
work of iconic photographer Terry ‘ONeill, who has shot the Autumn
13 campaign for the brand. Plus the French illustrator René Gruau’s
work, but the standout point for the show has to be the full 38
piece Orchestra of the London Philharmonic supplying the score for
the show ! The Clothes, like Gieves offered us a holiday wardrobe
this more Rivera style, with lightweight summer tweeds, dog tooth
checks, turtlenecks and playful patterns and colours.

Into the straights now for the final furlong of LC:M and onto the great man
himself Sir Paul Smith and all I can
say is what an honour to have him personally take me through the
collection himself. He explained to me his Best of
British range and the unique suits that only Paul Smith
could do, in simply the most amazing fabrics that he worked on very
closely with the Yorkshire mill Joseph Clissold & Son.
While we were talking he was telling me about how they had re-make
some vintage pieces from the Paul Smith Archive for Matt Smith’s
Doctor Who costume, but he wouldn’t be drawn on who he would like
to see filling those shoes, maybe its him !

So feeling slightly dizzy with going back and fourth around London, we head back to
LC:M HQ in Covent Garden to view the wares of Marks
& Spencer’s Made in Britain collection. SS14
will be the second season for this range and its hard to see how
they can build on the preview which they gave us of the Autumn
collection, to hit stores in September. Well they blooming well
did, my favourite pieces were the umbrellas which took all my will
power now to try and snaffle one for this inclement “summer”. The
bags not only looked but felt well beyond their retail price and
the Scottish Cashmere in the Modtro tailoring inspired by their
Leeds Archive was inspired.

The designer of the next show was the
subject of last season’s profile, Mr Christopher
Raeburn, still gains inspiration from nature and the
great outdoors, though this season he explores the notion of
protection, focusing on the men of the Long Range Desert Group. A
reconnaissance and raiding unit from World War II who experienced
the extreme conditions of the desert environment. Raeburn brings an
element of modernity to tailoring for his latest range, as
sportswear is blended with the former.

Another Christopher up next
but this time its Shannon rather then Raeburn and it’s the turn of
the inimitable Mr Richard Gray, Associate Fashion
Director of the Sunday Times Style to give his
unique take on Christopher Shannon’s
collection…

“This is the next level, la!
I’ve got middle-aged man-tits and grey riah and wanted it ALL. Will
have it all. That doesn’t mean it’s for old lads, it just means
it’s opened up to more people.

1. The colour – did a lil sex-wee over
it.

2. Collars in
colour – recalcitrant teen in court, circa 1974. Want to be
him.

3. The Junior
Gaultier-y branding and stars. SOLD!”

OK then, that brings us so nicely to not only the penultimate show of the review but what has to be
the most exciting and awaited, as Christopher Bailey brings
Burberry Prorsum home to the UK to
show its SS14 Menswear collection and lets just say it didn’t
disappoint. I have to admit, I am a Johnny come later fan of the
work of Bailey and I’d sit through numerous Burberry shows in Milan
and listen to Journalists and Stylists tell me about how great the
show was and I’d think I don’t get it. Then akin to St Paul on the
Road to Damascus, I had an epiphany moment and haven’t looked back.
This collection was a cracker, of course inspired by David Hockney
and like Hockney the use of colour, whether is be with the watches,
sunglasses or any garment was genius. Keep up the good work Bailey
and heres to seeing you back in London again in January.

And so it is the end of the third London Collections:Men, getting bigger and
better each time, a bit like my blisters and who may we see on the
schedule for next season ???? Vivienne Westwood maybe, Neil
Barrett, possibly maybe ever a count of our international cousins,
who would be very welcome in the cold that will be January 14 ! But
hold you horses, we have one more show and for us at
Clothes Make the Man, a blinder of a
designer and the subject of this season’s profile. Mr
Patrick Grant for
E.Tautz. Patrick takes us on a journey in and
around the many ethic cultures that call London home and make it
such a cosmopolitan hotbed. From the Bangladeshi community of East
London to A Japanese man who reads his book wearing a traditional
robe as Grant cycles past in King Edwards Park. All groups
retaining parts of their over clothing identity but encompassing
parts of their new home, normally height duty coats to combat the
environment of the UK. Grant managed to bring in all of these
factors and make them work as part of one solid collection.

The review of the Milan Menswear shows for this coming Autumn has a truly international feel to it, no not just because it’s Milanese, but we kick off with the review with the first lady of German, no not Angela Merkel,tut, the other iron lady Jil Sander and we conclude with the colourful Canadian duo the Brothers Caten and along the way we’ll throw in a Brit and a Yank for good measure.

Jil Sander AW13

You know when you attend a Jil Sander show it isn’t going to be all Peacock feathers, day glo and a gangster rap sound track and do you know what ? It wasn’t this season either, but what we were treated to was a vintage collection of true, pure Sander genius. There were covert military references, no surprises there, the colour palette was masculine and continued with the slight military undertone. But what was the show’s greatest success was the fact that it offered a sensible, wearable and contemporary collection without being boring.

Dolce & Gabbana AW13

Moving on to designers on more home turf for Dolce & Gabbana, who surely must be expecting a call from the Vatican’s legal team, for a share of their profits ? First they took the Rosary beads and turned them into a must have male Fashion accessory now they seem to have turned their attention to the miraculous medal, ask your Catholic friends. Their theme was “devotion” and boy did they mean it. They had turned their Teatro into a shrine, so much so, I nearly genuflected when I entered. This was full on Roman Catholic iconology, either a saints image was used to decorate a garment or the models looked as those they had stepped out of the seminary. Move over Geek chic this is parish priest chic !

Burberry AW13

Told you we’d throw a Brit in for good measure and who better then Mr Christopher Bailey MBE for Burberry Prorsum, who opted for the rather nostalgic theme of “I ♥ Classics” for his Autumnal showcase and on the whole I’d agree with him. It was a beautifully wearable collection but I’m just not quite sure about the injections of animal print, whether on bags, sunglasses, macs or on all the shoes throughout the show, maybe it’ll grow on me.

Next up is the all American brand helmed by the Italian Italo Zucchelli, Calvin Klein Collection. For this season Zucchelli seems to have fused a mix of contemporary masculine tailoring and futuristic sci-fi outerwear ala Blake 7, which saw the models look like either delegates or officers at some far flung inter galactic sartorial conference.

The Missoni show and its 60th anniversary was marred with the sad news that Vittorio Missoni and his wife Maurizia Castiglioni are still missing after their plane disappeared off the coast of Venezuela last Friday. The family decided the show must go on and indeed it did. The family run business famed for its patterned knitwear, offered a collection that couldn’t fail to please, not only were the aforementioned knits on display in outdoorsy hues. But the iconic family patterns were more subtly used in the weave of the fabric used in the construction of overcoats and suiting.

Prada AW13

What can I say about Prada, well I want that Blue jumper NOW ! for starters. This collection wasn’t tricksy or whimsical, apparently the design team have been working on the exact tones of colour for months and it certainly paid off for them. Sub-culture references were there, this time Teddy boys, but it wouldn’t be a Prada show without these. If I had to make one criticism of it, be it a small one, was I found the casting distracting, the models looked like the 3 stooges and their dad or some odd Slovakian version of Hollyoaks, but it wasn’t enough to detract from the show.

Gucci AW13

And so from one Italian Dynasty to another, Gucci are freakin good at what they do and Frida Giannini, is doing a sterling job as Creative Director, almost to the point of making it an impossible task to think who could ever replace her at the iconic Fashion house and who would have thought that after Tom Ford. The Gucci vision and DNA is so strong there is no mistaking a piece from this company from accessories to a tuxedo, it is undoubtably Gucci and this collection does not disappoint and can be summed u in one word, Classic, this is without a doubt Giannini’s most traditional of collections to date.

DSquared2 AW13

Finally, to the Dynamic DSquared2 duo of Canadian Twins Dan and Dean Caten. What a show ! Congratulations lads, the best collection to date and it all centred around 1940’s jazz clubs. But don’t let the retro theme fool you this was bang up to date and offered something everyman could buy into.

London Collections:Men – Highlights – Autumn/Winter 2015

London Collections:Men – Show Review – Spring/Summer 2015 – Part II

London Collections:Men Show Review Autumn/Winter 2014 Pt II

London Collections: Men SS14 Shows Review Part II

Milan Menswear Shows AW13

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