BFC Archives - CLOTHES MAKE THE MAN

(shot by Surgery TV a new fashion TV channel by Surgery PR)

Ok, before we start this morning I’ve a bit of a rant to get off my chest and I think it probably best put in the quote I’ve given to couple of publications, when asked to give my opinion on some of the more out there menswear shows we’ve seen this week during LC:M ;

“For Menswear designers today it’s increasingly difficult to obtain Media coverage so they know that, if they do wild and wacky pieces or collections they will achieve this. Very little has been spoken in the mainstream press about Agi & Sam who also were part of the MAN show, which included Craig Green and his, how can I put this, original face protection. This duo presented a great balance of directional and wearable clothing. Additionally, Oliver Spencer, Hackett, E.Tautz, Nutters of Savile Row or Matthew Miller, who all offered stand out collections that, virtually, any man could wear and look stylish and yet they receive very little column inches. It’s far easier to write negative articles about how crazy and mad Mens Fashion is even though the Fashion industry is worth £21bn to the UK economy.”

Jonathan Saunders AW13

OK end of rant, but I just find it sooooooo boring and lazy when people rip into Menswear, normally journalists who have very little experience of it and belittle and humiliate it when it’s a multi-million pound industry that is essential to the global economy and keeps millions of households in jobs every year alone.

Right then eyes down for round two and first on the agenda is Mr Jonathan Saunders, more known for his womenswear, this Scot is making real headway now with his Menswear. He drew his inspiration from the worlds of Op art, classicism and the Thin White Duke-era David Bowie, rather apt and maybe a good luck omen as it was Bowie’s birthday on this day. It was pleasant to see a collection which was so full of colour. My particular favourite piece was this harrington jacket in a gradation of colour like the sky at night when flying.

Richard James AW13

Over then to the re-furbished Cafe Royal for the Richard James Show who celebrates 21 years in the biz in 2013 and as you would expect showcased exceptional suiting and great re-working of the classic tuxedo in iridescent tones. According to the press release is was inspired by a unique fixture of London living that abounds with a curious, colourful life of its own. OK must have missed that but it was a great show.

Our next port of call was a Presentation called The English Gentleman at the Spencer House, which featured a mix of models dressed by Savile Row’s finest tailors. Forty different outfits were shown, spread through seven of the splendid rooms of London’s preeminent private palace. This essentially was a chance for Savile Row to, quite rightly, show off to the foreign press and just reiterate just how good at tailoring the UK is.

A mad dash ensued chasing round to attend a number of shows and presentations until the main event of the night, Alexander McQueen. Sarah Burton brought McQueen’s unique style of Gothic drama back to the UK and not since the Demeter carried Count Dracula to these shores have we seen such mystic. The models general demeanour was that of a rather demonic Max Headroom and the collection carried many of Burton’s trademark pagoda shoulder.This is something that won’t be to everyone’s likings, but there is no mistaking the sheer theatre of this collection.

The end of the Fashion world is nigh, well at least for London anyway before, its Milan’s turn to take on the baton. The subject of yesterday’s Post Christopher Raeburn started the final day of LC:M. Actor Russell Tovey, DJ/Presenter and face of Burton Menswear Reggie Yates (plus stylist Brother Cobi) Ohhh and we mustn’t forget Style Ambassador Dave Gandy all sat front row. Raeburn, invited us into his ethical world of outdoor pursuits, recycled and masculine menswear, with my personal favourites being his deconstructed checked parka with matching duffel bag.

E.Tautz AW13

A hop, skip and a jump over to join Patrick Grant at E.Tautz, here he offered his usual top class formal attire, where he perfectly blends the timeless traditions of Savile Row, yet manages to always deliver a bang up to date range. E.Tautz is one of those shows where you catch yourself thinking, want that, and that ohh and that. Keep it up sir.

Katie Eary AW13

Up next can only be described as an assault on your senses, almost a styling mugging, one could say. Kate Eary, managed to mash-up colours, patterns, prints and trends all without making look like some street wear dogs dinner. Everything from the styling to the music all worked in Eary’s favour. If you were feeling anyway jaded before you certainly felt lifted after that.

Lastly, what is starting to become LC:M’s equivalent of those memorable collaborations from the Brit Awards, like Dizzee and Florence, Justin and Kylie or Mick and Sam. Last year we saw Timothy Everest hook up with Superdry. This season we see the legendary Nutters of Savile Row team up with casual wear brand Peter Werth. These unusual bed partners came together while working on the wardrobe for the forthcoming film “Northern Soul”. The collection paid tribute to the archive of Tommy Nutter, oversized lapels, roped shoulders and wide leg trousers but mixed this with modern tailored sportswear so as to prevent it looking like a 70’s themed party. All these elements came together as a fitting an rip roaring finale to AW13’s LC:M, leaving just one question, how do you top that ?

After the success of the Opening ceremony for the 2012 Olympic games on Friday we thought we’d give you another chance to sample the delights of our guide to the host city. We decided to give you a insight to the not only the home of London Collections, but also the Queen’s Diamond Jubilee and the capital of Great Britain, yeah you guessed it, LONDON. Now to spice thing up we’ve only gone and asked a couple of the key designers who have shown their SS13 collection last week, for their favourite London tips, destinations and hang outs, with the help of our friends at the British Fashion Council. So whether you reside in Londonium, are planning a visit or just wanna know a little more about the place, relax and read through your essential guide ;

Top 5 Things to do

5) Head down to Borough Market, go hungry and take advantage of all the free samples.

4) Let yourself go, do something touristy – we recommend the London Eye, the Olympic Stadium or an open top Bus tour.

3) Head east and see what everyone is talking about, avoid the Nathan Barley’s (the reality is worse then the show, the show was tame), have a look round the Box Park pop up Mall. See where your taxes are being spent.

2) Use the Boris Bikes, obviously not a after a drink or two and take a ride down to the Serpentine.

1) Get a Time Out and see what’s on, it sound corny but, there is always so much going on in London. So, take advantage of being in one of the best cities in the WORLD.

Eat – Tayyabs – Probably the best curry this side of Mumbai (www.tayyabs.co.uk)

Sleep – Dean St Town house, you couldn’t get much more central (www.deanstreettownhouse.com)

Drink – The Cat & Mutton Broadway Market, a great pub in the one of the globe’s trendiest areas (www.catandmutton.com)

Ask a Designer –

Christpher Raeburn – “The Chiswick Boot Fair has always been a personal favourite. I also recommend The Wapping Project and a walk around the surrounding area, as well as escaping the city (sort of) to Epping Forest.”

Lou Dalton – “The Charles Lamb pub in Islington, St. John in St. John Street and the Hunterian Museum.”

Oliver Spencer – “The Barbican for Bauhaus, followed by the James Bond Exhibition. Primrose Hill for the weather and Lambs Conduit Street because we love it.”

Patrick Grant – “Drink a Vesper at the bar at Dukes Hotel. Go for oysters at Wilton’s or Bentley’s.”

Christopher Shannon – “Shrimpy’s at the Filling Station in Kings Cross, Mishkins in Covent Garden and a walk along the Thames as long as your legs can take it.”

Matthew Miller – “Stour Space café in Hackney Wick for breakfast. You can sit next to the canals and the Olympic stadium and watch the rowers row by while enjoying the wares of the local artists, and the best Eggs Benedict in East London! Vietnamese from the Green Papaya, Hackney, is the best I have tasted anywhere.
Just spend a day walking around the streets of London, you never know what you’ll find.”

Richard Nicoll – “Sunday at Herald Street Gallery and shopping at LNCC, dinner at La Bodega Negra Mexican in Soho (book ahead) and then on to Horse Meat Disco for an evening jig.”

London skyline by night

London Collections:MEN Autumn/Winter 2013 part II

London Calling

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