Shaken not stirred – The rise of the Navy Tuxedo

I guarantee the morning this poster was launched, Brand Directors of Menwear apparel companies globally rang their Buying Directors and say, “We have bought Navy Tuxedos, this season, haven’t we ?” 

“Err yes.” I’m sure was the response, now following this, one of two things happened, if the Buying Director is a good one and has an ounce of creativity and forethought about him, he breathed a sigh of relief. Or, lets just say, if he isn’t, he sure as hell called his formalwear buyer and tore a piece out of them.

Tom Ford, is a genius, this is nothing that hasn’t been said before, I’m not preaching some new gospel according to St Tom, no. He first dressed 007 for Quantum of Solace and he returns again for SKYFALL, with promises of an update for Bond’s wardrobe offering him a more contemporary look and if this poster is anything to go by Mr Ford is keeping to his word. Also, please see below a short profile on Bond’s wardrobe for upcoming film, SKYFALL by its costume designer Jany Temime.

Now as we were saying, Tom Ford proved himself a master salesman during his time as Creative Director at Gucci. Once again, he’s thought to himself, Dinner suit sales need a little help here, how can I do that, I know I’ll put the one man known across the globe who women want to be with and man want to be, in a different coloured tux to the classic black. So all those guys who have a black tuxedo now feel that they have to emulate Bond by also having a Navy one, as I said GENIUS !

We all can’t afford Tom Ford prices, nonetheless, Mr Ford is not the only one to have produced Navy dinner suits this season and if you fancy yourself as being on Her Majesty’s Secret Service and looking like you have a Licence to kill. Then take a look at the pieces below for inspiration.

Navy Single breasted Tuxedo, by French Connection exclusively for Moss Bros.

The perfect white shirt from the former supplier to 007 Ede & Ravenscroft.

In for a penny in for a pound, channel your inner Bond with this Navy Velvet Bow tie by Lanvin from MrPorter.com

The Bert, a traditional Oxford shoe with a twist from Grenson

Bond is synonymous for his Omega Seamaster, but this absolute bargain from Marks & Spencer is literally a fraction of the cost.

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Mr Mode himself – Adrian Clark – Textual Conversations

Do you recognise this international man of mystery ? The likelihood is probably no, has he affected the way or what you purchase when it comes to Clothes and style, the answer in all honesty is probably yes ! This man to your left is Adrian Clark the Style Director of Shortlist and Editor of the increasing essential style biannual MODE. Every Thursday, in the UK commuters traveling from A to B, thats cities from Aberdeen to Brighton read the phenomena that is Shortlist, effecting and educating men in equal measure. What this man puts onto his style pages sells whether that be the latest fragrance, luggage, suit, t-shirt, jeans or watch. If he covers it the retailer has a spike in sales.

Now, MODE, about to publish its fourth issue, with the theme of “THE NEW MASCULINE”, which in Clark’s own words states, “Autumn/Winter 2012 has turned a very masculine corner in fashion, with rugged replacing, preppy and manly reigning over elegance.” The issue, is literally crammed, it includes a UK Exclusive interview with Tom Ford, penned by Clark himself, an insight into what goes into an IWC watch, a debate into sexual equality in mens’ vs women’s fashion, 50 trend led items you need this Autumn and a cover shoot with 80’s male supermodel, Werner Schreyer, don’t worry you’ll recognise his face, see below.

Now I can hear you from here, surely this man doesn’t have the time to answer the questions of Clothes-make-the-man.com ? You’d be surely wrong, Adrian Clark over to you ! –

If you could have invented anything what would it be?

Coca Cola

What would be the one piece of clothing you would rescue from your home in the event of a fire?

Probably my Tom Ford ‘Ranger’ coat in a blue and grey lumberjack check. It’s an amazing piece, and I love the fact that it is a luxe spin on a rugged outdoor functional basic. It has a 1950’s feel about it (the kind of coat you could imagine Don Draper wearing on vacation while driving a wood paneled station wagon in the Colorado) – it was actually promised to Aaron Johnson, but I saw it on the rails in their office and convinced them I would give it a better home.

What inspires you?

It’s a process that has no beginning or end and no boundaries so that is a difficult question to answer. It’s everything and nothing in reality. I pick up ideas subliminally without looking and somehow my brain processes them and they turn into ideas. Creativity, confidence and integrity inspire me greatly, such as in the work of a great designer who refuses to compromise such as Azzedine Alaia or a fashion maverick like Diana Vreeland.

If you could only wear one brand/Designer for the rest of your life who would it be? Why?

Another tricky one, as there is so many different facets to my life! In fact when I pack to go away I usually pack for 3 different Adrian Clark’s who all have very different tastes and personalities. There is the Adrian Clark who would dress head-to-toe in Prada, which taps into my more classic side, The Adrian Clark who would happily wear Dries Van Noten from here to eternity as it is on-trend but never stupid and then there is the Dsquared2 Adrian Clark who is usually looking for trouble

Who is your style icon? Why?

Burt Reynolds. An obvious one for me as I am obsessed with the 1970’s and obsessed with the ideal of men as sex symbols and beacons of masculinity. Also NOBODY could or still can work a double denim look like he could.

What piece of style advice do you live by?

Know your body shape and wear clothes that work with that and not against it! My ever changing body shape (I yo-yo between going to the gym 5-days a week to slob, and find what I dress like changes with the ever evolving body image.

What piece of clothing should everyman have in his wardrobe?

A pair of motorcycle boots, they are the most empowering item of clothing, having the same effect women achieve in a pair of Laboutin heels. They give you confidence.

Have you ever bought a piece of clothing and regretted it? If so what & why?

I only ever regret buying stuff from the high street. I have a vast collection of clothes and essentially whatever I buy from the high street (thinking I may want it) I will probably already have another much better designer example of it in my wardrobe that does the same job… but much better!

What piece of clothing would you relegate to Room 101?

This is the easiest question for me to answer… ANY accessory for men (other than sneakers which is my one exception to this rule) that are WHITE! Particularly white belts, they are so Peter Andre.

Who would be your ideal dinner guests and why?

Living or dead? If I can pull from history it would be Diana Vreeland, Halston and Diana Ross…. I’m sure you can see a pattern emerging there! Someone once asked me if you could teleport back to any place at any time in history, when and where would it be? I of course chose Studio 54, New Years Eve 1977.

How did you get into the industry, what was your big break?

After leaving Central Saint Martins I was introduced to the fashion director of The Independent newspaper who liked my work and two days out of college immediately sent me on an assignment to cover the Paris Haute Couture – giving me a double page in the broadsheet as a blank canvas. I did a kind of sketchbook from the shows, reviews, comments, illustrations etc – and the week after it was out on the streets my phone never stopped ringing with offers from the likes of The Times, The Observer, The Face etc. I was very lucky to be the right person in the right place at the right time, without much of an uphill struggle that so many talented people unfairly have to face today.

MODE is available on this Tuesday Morning Nationwide and Monday evening in London

Shortlist.com/Mode

Its Farrell not Feral – Textual Conversation with Ben Dickens, Farrell

Ben Dickens and someone called Robbie Williams, I think, at the recent launch of Farrell at Selfridges. The range is available at Selfridges London, Manchester & Birmingham.

Ben Dickens was the Design Director at Burberry for four years, working across all of the men’s product categories. Due to his career successes he was most recently charged with heading up Burberry Prorsum and the London collection working closely with the incredibly talented, Christopher Bailey. Before this, Ben cut his design teeth working along another iconic Brit Designer John Richmond in Milan.

In November 2011, he left the Burberry check behind him and join a fledging brand called Farrell, devised by someone called Robert Peter Williams, or as you my know him the sometime member of a band called Take that and has a couple of awards including Brits, MTV awards and Ivor Novellos to his name, Robbie Williams.

At the time of Dickens joining Farrell, William said, ‘A breath of fresh air is floating down the corridors of Farrell. The beautiful Ben Dickens has arrived, bringing his optimism, passion and vision to my Granddad’s clothing line. It’s beautiful to be at the start and see an open road in front of us. The more we talk, the more ideas we throw around – it’s exciting. It’s very similar to making an album, after all that’s what an album? It’s an idea. What is art? It’s an idea, as are clothes. We are at the tip of an iceberg, and it is an iceberg. Come join us, we are many.’

How the AW12 collection appears on the shop floor in Selfridges

Farrell, is inspired by Robbie Williams grandfather, Jack Farrell or Jack the Giant Killer, as Williams refers to him, “My grandfather, Jack Farrell – Jack the Giant Killer – was a huge man, built like an Irish navvy, fought in the Second World War, lived on a council estate… He was the first real male figure in my life – he was an honest man, he taught me to box, I was surrounded by women and he worried that I was going to be a sissy. The integrity of his influence runs throughout this collection.”

He claims that Jack was a notable dresser and a strong man who had great integrity, honesty, good manners and a sense of humour. It is these qualities that form the foundation of Farrell and are now ingrained into the brand ethos, from the design process to the shop floor. Farrell promises to deliver classic wardrobe staples suitable for a night in, an afternoon at the footie or a night out. ‘Wear it in, Wear it out’is Farrell’s motto. Every piece within the Farrell collection is designed to become a longstanding part of a man’s wardrobe, growing and evolving with the wearer over time. Pieces such as the iconic Pea coat and Harrington signify Farrell’s dedication to British style and the principles of men being men.

Ben defines the Farrell man: “This is a brand for every guy – whether you’re going to the pub, taking your missis to the shops, going out with the lads. They’re pieces which will last you for years.”

Now, learn a little more about this man, the range and the man behind it and Ben Dickens answers a couple of questions for Clothes-make-the-man.com

In your words describe the collection:

We wanted to create a wardrobe of perfected gent’s classic pieces and at a price that most guys could afford. Clothes with honesty, integrity and built to last; future hand-me-downs.

What was the inspiration for it?

The collection is a tribute to Jack Farrell, Robbie’s grandfather, and all the men of his generation; a time when men where men, acted as gentlemen and took pride in themselves and their appearance. For this season the collection took a more military slant. We worked with a beautiful old image from WW1 of the Christmas amnesty football match. It has a sentimental as well as a stylistic value to us.

What are the key pieces in it?

The collection is lead by the coats and outerwear. Within that particular pieces of note are the Great coat, the Military Control Trench and Peacoat. They are the kind of piece that when a fella puts them on they become his suit of armor to face the world.

What piece of clothing would you relegate to Room 101?

Diamante encrusted t-shirts, in fact any ‘bling’ encrusted clothes for men.

If you could give your teenage self advice, what would it be?

Under no circumstance attempt to wear – a zebra print shirt, cornflour blue twin set, white fur coat, red/blu/yellow ski salopettes, nail varnish, bleach-blonde hair and black patent buffalo boots in the same outfit.

What piece of clothing should everyman have in his wardrobe?

A great classic raincoat.

What piece of style advise do you live by?

‘Socks before, or after trousers but never socks before pants. Make’s a man look scary, like a chicken…’ – Mark from Peepshow 2003

If you could wear one brand/designer for the rest of your life, who would it be and why?

Farrell… So far – it’s the epitome of everything I want to wear.

What would be the one piece of clothing you would rescue from your home in the event of a fire?

My lucky undies (and perhaps my vintage 1941 Belstaff dispatch coat).

If you could have invented anything what would it be?

The Aston Martin, in particular the DB5.

Who is your style icon and why?

It’s a toss up between Steve McQueen and Harold Steptoe. Steve Mcqueen because he is cool as hell. Harold Steptoe because he’s literally thrown together, but always looks the epitome of disheveled elegance.

Farrell.com

The Talented Mr Spencer – Oliver Spencer

When I first started on this blog adventure and I came up with the idea of textual conversations, one of the first people on the list was Oliver Spencer, since its launch in 2002, I’d admired his clothes, the cut, the design and overall feel of the stores and the brand, plus over the years as I got to know him from meeting him at various Fashion weeks, events and the occasional pint, I discovered what a genuine and decent fella Oliver is.

Now whats interesting to know is with no formal training Oliver founded the label as a reaction to the merging boundaries between mainstream and fashion collections, bridging the gap between dress-up and dress-down. The label mixes quintessential English style with quirky flourishes and attention to detail.His signature label sits alongside his involvement with Favourbrook, the label he founded in 1990, and which now has three stores on Jermyn Street, London, catering for those seeking an eclectic take on modern sophistication.

Of his eponymous collection, Oliver admits, “I wanted to create clothes that bridge the gap between workwear and fashion, mainstream and utility.” In doing so he developed a sophisticated and intelligent approach, where detail is vital in each and every garment. Detachable collars, innovative linings, hidden pockets and quirky accessories are all stamped by Spencer’s craftsmanship and tailoring skills. As he says, his collections are, “All about culture, not about cult.” Notably Oliver made the decision to aim the designs at a more grown-up clientele, who would judge the designs on merit alone, and in spite of maintaining high production and finishes, the clothes retain a handmade sensibility. However, in turn his skills have caught the attentions of the Great British high Street and has seen him work with, amongst others Selfridges, TopMan & Asos on exclusive collaborations. Plus he counts Paul Waller, Mad Men’s Don Draper, sorry Jon Hamm and Benicio Del Toro as ardent clients.

Anyway, enough of me going on with myself lets see what he’s got to say for himself;

In your own words what is you’re A/W12 collection about & What’s your favourite piece in the collection ?

A Feeling of 1970’s Arthouse and the impeccable style of a youthful Lucian Freud.

The two tone bomber is my favourite.

If you could have invented anything what would it be ?

The iphone.

What’s your favourite piece of clothing ?

KWay pack a mack.

Who is your style icon ?

Lucian Freud, because he’s eclectic and artistic.

Tell us something no one else knows ?

Prada is going to open on Shoreditch High Street.

Can you tie a bow tie ? If yes, who taught you?

The unique Lucian Freud

Yes, Self taught.

What piece of clothing should everyman have in his wardrobe ?

A suit, one good suit.

Have you ever bought a piece of clothing and regretted it ?

Yes, A Yohji Yamamoto shirt, it was too big and made me look like a chef.

What do you have to do after this conversation?

Go and look at the venue for our forthcoming show.

What would you like to be doing after this conversation ?

Going to a restaurant.

What track would always get you on the dance floor?

Anything by Arcade Fire.

oliverspencer.co.uk

In the business of – Ask Ant

AskAnt had a bit of a hiatus over the summer months and we’ve had quite a few enquires asking about it’s whereabouts and well being. Fear not dear reader the sword of damocles has not fallen on this feature, not by a long chalk. So not only is a new season upon us but also a new quandary to test my retail knowledge and sartorial skills. So without further gesticulating, who’s the next subject please ? ;

Ahmed, I like your thinking, I’m currently in the process myself of sorting out new business cards & I can’t tell how mortified I feel when asked for a business card & I have to explain the situation. This instance is unforgivable and shows you in a negative light from the off set and in my mind is an immediate red card and something I need to amend post-haste. So without further ado, lets give you your options.

Now, I’ve decided not to go for the more contemporary  metal or plastic business card holders as I personally feel they upset me & the line of your jacket in the same way as a mobile phone would, they have a tendency to drag things down, a look which is amateur and unflattering. However, if this is what you are after the least offensive can be found in Muji or Amazon.

So, my choice of business card holder, I would go with something a little more traditional, but that can show off a touch of your personality and something that can say what you are about and what you want to put out there, ideally a professional persona.

Mulberry @ Harrods

1) First up is this beautiful option from Mulberry, it says traditional, aspirational, style savvy and masculine. This chic Mulberry business card holder is a sleek staple accessory that will see you through each season in businesslike style and is available from Harrods the height of unique sophistication.

Smythson @ mywardrobe.com

2) Option 2 is  something a little more colourful, this Azure blue leather card case with one slim internal slip pocket and one gusseted pocket for business cards is by Smythson, if you want to display your creative, artist side and something a little left field that can be a good conversation starter, this is your boy and is from mywardrobe.com

Liberty London collection @ Liberty

3) Now your final choice is a bit of a trump card as it has many (many) options all from the under the same roof or platform depending on your preferred preference of purchase. The department emporium Liberty has literally oodles of business card holders and covers every personality from flamboyant statement to conservative classicism.

Acne @ Liberty

Lastly, as requested all of the above are all under the stated budget of £100, actually well under, so enough for another sneaky purchase or even a good night out, sir.

So Ahmed my friend, all that is left for me to do is to advise you, the choice is yours ??? Do let us know what your decision is and join us again soon for another style clinic.

Please remember, if you have any Sartorial stuppers and are in need of a little stylish advice PLEASE don’t forget your not on your own just email us here at Clothes-make-the-man.com @ askant@ymail.com and we’ll answer your problems practically.