The King of the Manbag – Bill Amberg – Textual Conversation


Bill Amberg Portrait

 

The subject of today’s Textual conversation, Bill Amberg, had a career epiphany whilst visiting a relative in Australia, who introduced  him to an inspirational mentor and leather worker, Gay Wilson, who offered him an apprenticeship in her studio making sculpture and moulded body pieces, jockey’s shoes, wallets and belts, in Adelaide. A passion for craftsmanship reignites and develops as a respect for leather, the rest they say is history.

In 1984 Bill receives his first big break when department store, Liberty, ask him to create a line of bags for them in the now trademark Bill Amberg brown English saddle leather, and they literally fly off the shelve.  Two years later Sir Paul Smith commissions Amberg to create a line of bags to be sold in Paul Smith stores under Bills own name, a collaboration that continues for nearly a decade, which is then followed by Donna Karan and Romeo Gigli. In fact, his designs are seen as soooo classic that his Rocket bag now sits as a design classic in the V&A design museum in London.

For Autumn13 Bill Amberg has gone back to his roots with a focused collection, showcasing the skills inherent in UK manufacturing. Bill Amberg staples such as the Rocket and Medicine bags, plus soft classics remain at the core of the collection and new styles accent these in exquisite leathers and tans.

Screen Shot 2013-09-09 at 17.13.02Additionally, for this season, Bill has worked with Elvis & Kresse, the lifestyle accessories brand focused on reimagining seemingly useless waste into practical luxury items, on the “Tooley” tote bag named after the street where London’s fire brigade was founded. The Tooley tote will be available in stores and online from November 2013; with Elvis & Kresse donating 50% of the profits from their fire hose range to the Fire Fighters Charity. The innovative and pioneering Fire-Hose “Tooley ” Tote bag is made from de-commissioned British fire brigade hoses which, after a distinguished career fighting fires and saving lives, were otherwise destined for landfill.

Anyway, lets hear what Bill has to say;

 

If you could have invented anything what would it be ?

The wheel – I would love to of been around in the early in days dragging your beasts around and then wow, the revelation of the wheel. 

If you had one day to live what would be your biggest regret ? 

No regrets – It is important to keep looking forward 

What would be the one piece of clothing you would rescue from your home in the event of a fire ? 

My glasses – they are the wayfarer design created by Shuron. 

If you could only wear one brand/Designer for the rest of your life who would it be ?  

I would choose a bespoke tailor made saville row designer, the clothes would just be so comfortable. 

Who is your style icon ?  

Peter Blake… He only ever wore one thing and looked perfectly happy and relaxed 

Tell us something no one else knows ? 

I have just got in to beekeeping which is really interesting and a funny fact for you is that bees have hairs on their eyes! 

Can you tie a bow tie ? If yes, who taught you ? 

Yes… my father 

What piece of style advise do you live by ? 

Wear comfortable clothes – don’t take yourself too seriously

What piece of clothing should everyman have in his wardrobe ? 

A good selection of T-shirts. Ones that fit every mood that you have for instance – funny, sad, girly… whatever fits the mood perfectly.. 

Have you ever bought a piece of clothing and regretted it ?  

At 14 I bought an arctic white crinkly roll neck jumper and it was so bad I was ridiculed by my entire family and so I only wore it once. I have never worn synthetic fabrics since.

Who would do you ideal diner guests and why ? 

Katherine Hepburn this woman was very stylish, well read, funny good party girl game on for anything. 

What is you most memorable moment? 

Tomorrow! You have got to keep looking forward always.

 

 ICONIC BILL AMBERG BAGS

The Medicine Bag

The Medicine Bag

The Rocket Bag

The Rocket Bag

The Truffle Hunter

The Truffle Hunter

 

 

 

You Nutter ! – Tommy Nutter X Peter Werth

PWxNWay back in January of this year, as a finale for London Collections:MEN, we were treated to what many viewed as an unusual collaboration, in Nutters of Savile Row & Peter Werth. I mean the late, great Tommy Nutter, was the original maverick tailor. He was London’s sartorial enfant terrible, a tailoring rebel who introduced a rakish silhouettes and jaunty cocktail-­‐lounge styles to the bespoke classes and the emerging classless celebrities of the Sixties. He dressed everyone, from the Beatles and the Rolling Stones, to Sir Hardy Amies and Lord and Lady Harlech, from Elton John, Eric Clapton, Michael Jackson and Diana Ross.

Nutter was a one-­man revolution, single-­handedly responsible for introducing fashion to Savile Row, whilst committing the equally audacious act of inviting the fairer sex to share a world that had previously been the preserve of gentlemen, don’t you know. These deeds were bound by a common thread of peerless, critic defying quality. Throughout his colourful life, he continued to question authority, flout convention, and court controversy; all in the most convivial manner.

Now don’t get me wrong Peter Werth, hash’t lead a sheltered life I mean being “asked to leave”, Walthamstow School of Art he took up working for a relative at the infamous Astor Club in London’s Berkley Square. Where the club attracted an eclectic mix of aristocrats, showbiz personalities and gangsters in equal measures. It exposed young Peter to the glitz, glamour and bright lights and soon he was dressed to the nines to meet the high standards set by the club’s clientele. Werth’s love of clothing took him away from the nightlife of Mayfair to the boutiques of Carnaby Street, the hotbed of British Fashion at that time. Through a succession of jobs in the rag-trade he developed an acute understand of what people might actually want to wear. 

So this collaborative collection of contemporary tailoring is designed to be sharp enough to enter Mayfair’s private nightspots and sufficiently relaxed for the dancefloors of the hottest soul clubs, with a spirit and attitude reflecting the heady heights of life after dark in the 1970’s.  Delivered with Nutter’s signature oversized lapels, roped shoulders and wide-leg trousers the collection features unstructured tailored sportswear in jersey knit fabrics for blazers and shirts.  The knitwear pays homage to Savile Row by incorporating overscaled Prince of Wales, houndstooth and windowpane check designs. Outerwear and accessories complete a look that seamlessly blends the old and new, in a contemporary, modern and relevant way.

 

Screen Shot 2013-09-02 at 15.51.32Screen Shot 2013-09-02 at 15.52.39Screen Shot 2013-09-02 at 15.51.56

The picture you see is no portrait of me – Portrait, The new Fragrance by Paul Smith

PS_PORTRAIT_FOR_MEN_PACKSHOTPaul Smith is a true global designer, not only is he one of the world’s most well known Fashion designers, but he has stores in countless countries spanning the globe. More than a decade after the launch of his first signature fragrance, this season sees the launch of Paul Smith’s latest fragrance – Portrait For Men and Portrait For Women.

Inspired by his love of travel and a true passion for photography, as anyone who follows him via social media, will know. This fragrance is the result of a two-year collaboration between Smith and new generation perfumer Barnabé Fillion. Barnabé painstakingly constructed the two fragrances based on his lengthy discussions with Paul, concerning the pair’s shared love of travel and interest in the ability of certain scents to evoke powerful memories. “Trying to capture his personality and life in a scent was challenging but Paul was always full of ideas and material that I could then translate to fragrance. The most important thing, was that both fragrances had authenticity – a sense of truth.” As he so eloquently puts it.

The result is an evocative snapshot of the designer’s travels, memories, passions and inspirations in the shape of two sophisticated and multi-faceted fragrances bursting with originality, authenticity and Paul Smith’s original signature style.

Although the mens and womens fragrances are totally different they are connected by no less than four key notes – bergamot, cardamon, myrrh and tea (black tea in the case of Portrait For Women and Green Tea in Portrait For Men). The tea note, key to both fragrances, is especially important to the designer, who associates the rich aroma of Black Tea with visits to Indian markets and the distinctive smell of Green Tea with Japan – a country he’s visited nearly 100 times. Along with the other notes (the wild rose one at the heart of Portrait For Women was inspired by Paul’s memories of his uncle’s garden in Nottingham) they combine to take the wearer on an olfactory journey into the world of Paul Smith.

 

The Buyer’s Guide to Autumn 2013 – Flannels

Flannels, mightn’t necessarily mean a great deal to you just yet and a number of our loyal readers may never have experienced the delights of a Flannels boutique, but if you live in Liverpool, Nottingham, Cardiff, Leeds, Birmingham or particularly Manchester there is no doubt if you like your clothes, you’ll know about Flannels.

Flannels are the UK’s largest independent luxury retail group, specialising in contemporary men’s and women’s designer clothing, footwear and accessories. Neil Prosser, founder and independent owner of The Flannels Group, has developed the business by allowing each carefully selected brand to have their own identity and reflects the company’s philosophy of the importance of individualism and attention to detail. By providing impeccable customer service in a unique setting, Flannels strives to create a benchmark for luxury retailing.

In 2007, the Flannels website launched which has been designed to be an extension of our already successful store concepts and offers the same collection of iconic designer brands as their stores, so no excuses not to check them out. So lets see what they recommend for Autumn –

Jacob Cohen offers the ultimate in premium denim. Expect signature cuts in the finest Japanese Kurabo denim, all made in Italy and finished with the iconic pony skin patch. Be sure to look out for the limited edition collection in stores soon.

Jacob Cohen offers the ultimate in premium denim. Expect signature cuts in the finest Japanese Kurabo denim, all made in Italy and finished with the iconic pony skin patch. Be sure to look out for the limited edition collection in stores soon.

High-tops are the key footwear choice for AW13. Combining this season’s leopard print trend, these Giuseppe Zanotti’s tick all the right boxes!

High-tops are the key footwear choice for AW13. Combining this season’s leopard print trend, these Giuseppe Zanotti’s tick all the right boxes!

McQ Alexander McQueen Ghost Tartan Trim Tuxedo Jacket Update your evening look with an injection of McQ Alexander McQueen’s subversive style. Perfectly tailored, the classic single-breasted, narrow lapel jacket features McQueen’s iconic  tartan print.

McQ Alexander McQueen Ghost Tartan Trim Tuxedo Jacket
Update your evening look with an injection of McQ Alexander McQueen’s subversive style. Perfectly tailored, the classic single-breasted, narrow lapel jacket features McQueen’s iconic tartan print.

This cow skin bomber from Paul Smith is not for the faint hearted! A statement piece, it covers this seasons bomber jacket and animal print trends.

This cow skin bomber from Paul Smith is not for the faint hearted! A statement piece, it covers this seasons bomber jacket and animal print trends.

Giuseppe Zanotti Leopard Print Wash Bag The wash bag is an essential for any man – if you don’t choose to wear leopard print this season, infuse it into your accessories to stay on-trend.

Giuseppe Zanotti Leopard Print Wash Bag
The wash bag is an essential for any man – if you don’t choose to wear leopard print this season, infuse it into your accessories to stay on-trend.

This toxic garden print shirt is a highlight of the McQ Alexander McQueen AW13 collection. Fusing fashion and art, wear with tailored suit trousers for a unique evening look.

This toxic garden print shirt is a highlight of the McQ Alexander McQueen AW13 collection. Fusing fashion and art, wear with tailored suit trousers for a unique evening look.

The biker jacket is a key style for AW13. Moncler’s version offers a unique spin, with the contrast sleeves and popper and zip details. Incorporating the brand’s iconic quilted details, it is a piece which will see you through the seasons.

The biker jacket is a key style for AW13. Moncler’s version offers a unique spin, with the contrast sleeves and popper and zip details. Incorporating the brand’s iconic quilted details, it is a piece which will see you through the seasons.

Louis Leeman creates shoes that make a statement. Key pieces of the Autumn Winter collection include the nickel toe suede high-tops and these suede pyramid detail loafers, launching online and in stores soon!

Louis Leeman creates shoes that make a statement. Key pieces of the Autumn Winter collection include the nickel toe suede high-tops and these suede pyramid detail loafers, launching online and in stores soon!

Valentino is new to Flannels for AW13. This Prince of Wales check suit is a highlight of the collection – a statement piece, yet a classic to bring out season after season. Also look out for the panelled reefer jacket and camouflage trainers coming soon.

Valentino is new to Flannels for AW13. This Prince of Wales check suit is a highlight of the collection – a statement piece, yet a classic to bring out season after season. Also look out for the panelled reefer jacket and camouflage trainers coming soon.

Camouflage is a huge print for AW13. This camo print sweat jacket from Stone Island infuses the seasons big print trend with the brand’s iconic outerwear.

Camouflage is a huge print for AW13. This camo print sweat jacket from Stone Island infuses the seasons big print trend with the brand’s iconic outerwear.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Polo Ralph Lauren Autumn 2013, now here’s a collection !

Sorry, I’ve literally just been sent the below video the Autumn 2013, sorry Fall Collection by Polo Ralph Lauren it presents a season of heritage looks paired with authentic American roughwear. Key pieces include versatile tailored pieces and a range of sportswear—from estate tweeds and signature fairisle knits to a special selection of nylon and down jackets crafted by RLX and mixed with Polo. Not only is it beautifully shot, making me long to be wherever it is, but I can quite honestly say I want every single piece PLEASE !