CLOTHES MAKE THE MAN

There are a few brands that truly sum up the epitome of luxury in today’s overcrowded market. Why only recently Gucci replaced its former Creative Director, Frida Giannini, as they were concerned that their status within this complicated and fickle arena was in danger of slipping. However, two brands that, although not Apparel brands, don’t have to worry about their luxurious status, one the pinnacle of opulence in the motoring world is Bentley and the other is synonymous with luxury timekeeping, Breitling. So much so when Bentley require clocks for their motoring objects of magnificent splendour, their was only one watch brand on their shortlist.

The latest piece in this on-going collaborative relationship is the Bentley B06 with its original “30-second chronograph” system is being rolled out in a new more compact version accentuating its sophisticated and sporty design. Obviously bound to appeal to devotees of fine mechanics offering a blend of elegance and performance. The knurled pattern on the bezel, a nod to the famous Bentley radiator grills, of course, is picked up in the motif stamped on the black or silver dial. But alongside its unusual eye-catching design, the Bentley B06 S is also distinguished by its exclusive engine. Manufacture Breitling Calibre B06, entirely developed and produced in the Breitling Chronométrie workshops, and officially chronometer-certified, boasts an ingenious “30-second chronograph” system inspired by a 1926 Breitling patent, don’t you know. It involves a central hand sweeping around the dial in half a minute and thus ensuring extremely precise eighth-of-a- second readings of the times it measures. Another worldwide exclusive feature is the “variable tachymeter” with rotating bezel, serving to calculate average speeds whatever the time elapsed, the distance covered or the speed reached. The Bentley B06 S is available in steel or red gold and comes with a choice of a bracelet or a strap in leather, crocodile or rubber with a central raised pattern matching the bezel. A perfect emblem of the Breitling for Bentley spirit. As we said, go on spoil yourself, you know its worth it !

Iceberg

As sure as night follows day, or is that day follows night, I never know, Milan follows London on the Men’s Style Calendar. Yes, all those poor fashion journalists, buyers, opinion formers and of course the all important fashion PR’s have to pack up their designer luggage, and head off to the Italian capital of cool, Milano.

Here like London we saw a whole host of trends presented to us by the likes of Dolce & Gabbana, Giorgio Armani, Versace and Pringle of Scotland, why does that last house not seem to quite fit in there ???

Missoni

The first Spring/Summer 2016 trend we picked up was the use of Autumal hues being introduced in a Summer like way. We saw traditional tones like Burgundy, Mustard, Navy blue, Moss and Brown all being used to great effect to portray the opposing season they are known for by the likes of Fendi, Missoni, Pringle of Scotland and Marni.

Bally

This trend may have been aptly assisted by the following trend, which seems at the moment to be steam rolling its way through the entire Fashion industry from Mens and Womenswear and from the High End Luxury market right the way to the fast Fashion elements of the High Street retailers. That of course being the 1970’s as a great source of inspiration. However, it has to be said some brands achieved this, notoriously marmite decade, a lot better than others. These being the ones who were a little less literal in their interpretation of this era, houses from Bally, Missoni and Salvatore Ferragamo were more covert in their appreciation. Whereas others, who shall remain nameless seemed to use Shaggy from Scooby Doo as their muse for this season.

Versace

Anyway, moving on, travel never seems to bore as a source of inspiration for designers and this season was no exception we had Donnatella Versace and her team sourcing the cuts, shapes and silhouettes of India. Dolce & Gabbana, as always, used their Italian heritage as the basis for their designs but this time China and its iconology served as its twist on their take for SS16. But it was the ever traveller, Giorgio Armani who offered us an East meets West, using his own back catalogue as reference for his Emporio Armani collection.

Dolce & Gabbana

While we are talking about cultures feeding off one and others tailoring heritage, it was the Americans who showed us how it should be done on a formal front both iconic houses of Ralph Lauren, who offered an impeccable range of suiting for his Purple label and Italo Zucchelli for Calvin Klein Collection on a more contemporary tip. Not wanting to be outdone some of Italy’s oldest and traditional houses offered a Masterclass in tailoring excellence from Brioni to Brunello Cucinelli and Boglioli.

Ralph Lauren

Lastly, we have, sorry I have to say it, probably my least favourite of the Milanese trends, ROCK STAR !!! This is something the Italians seem to love and always manage to offer up in some way shape or form. This season, as in every season, Costume National drew on their inner Rocker and they were joined by Diesel Black Gold, Neil Barrett and Phillipp Plein, who managed to come down for his finale on the back of a bike, very Evel Kenevel, yeah I know he’s not a Rock Star!

Diesel Black Gold

The idea of a regular grooming routine for some men is a complete alien concept, for others moisturising, maybe once a week or fortnight is enough of a routine. So the notion of adding cleansing is one major step to far.

Well gentlemen, let me introduce you to the wonderous benefits of cleansing and those geni over at Clinique for Men have only blooming well gone and done it again !

The first step to maintaining healthy and clear skin is cleansing. Fueled by the purifying powers of bamboo charcoal, NEW Clinique for Men Charcoal Face Wash removes dirt, debris and surface oil for tired, stressed and congested skin with these effective ingredients below:
• Charcoal: derived from bamboo, this is infused with detoxifying properties to deeply cleanse without harshly drying or irritating skin
• Glycerin: attracts water to the skin to restore suppleness while also forming a barrier against future moisture loss to refuel and revitalise skin
• Caffeine: an anti-irritant that helps to nourish and soothe skin irritation from razor burns and nicks.

But for an even deeper yet still comfortable clean, pair the Charcoal Face Wash with Clinique’s new and ingenious Sonic System Deep Cleansing Brush; its specially designed to deliver even better cleansing results than hand washing and for a closer, comfortable and less irritating shave.

So follow these instructions to get the more out of these new partners in preventing Grooming crimes;

• Apply a coin-sized amount of Clinique for Men Charcoal Face Wash to dampened brush head and press start.
• Gently cleanse the cheeks with soft, lighter grey bristles and tilt the brush head to use the darker charcoal bristles in an up and down motion to clean the oilier t-zone.
• There is no need to apply pressure; let the brush gently glide over skin like gliding a computer mouse over a mouse pad.
• Use once daily for 30 seconds at night and work up to twice a day.
• Follow with the appropriate Clinique for Men Exfoliating Tonic and any Clinique for Men moisturiser along with additional recommended Clinique treatment products depending on skin type or skin concern.

The collaboration between Massimo Vitali and Vilebrequin was inevitable : Vitali has been passionately photographing beaches all over the world for the past 20 years, and Vilebrequin has been dressing the chicest of chic bathers since 1971. Together, they conceived an exceptional capsule collection where image, subject, and object come together thanks to a unique process of image manipulation.

The two parties came together to express their mutual support of contemporary art and the preservation of coastlines. Vilebrequin, who are known for their impeccable high-end swimsuits, invited Massimo Vitali, equally known as the master of contemporary photography, to transform the beach into an open-air gallery. Just like Vilebrequin, Vitali invented a unique style, he’s been called “the oldest photographer of the young generation”, because he only started his career as a photographic artist at the tender age of 50. From the Venice Biennial to Art Basel Miami, his large-format, inescapable works transport you to beaches filled with beauiful holidaymakers, where the water is crystalline and the horizon stretches as far as the eye can see, I hope I’ve transported you to the scene, at least in mind if not in body. Vitali’s style is often imitated but never equaled. Very few have ever captured with such brilliance the beauty of a coastline and its ephemeral inhabitants.

The collaboration needed to happen in a way that made sense to Vitali. “This project was interesting because it went further than the images I usually make,” he explains. If we look closely at Vitali’s Vilebrequin photograph, we can see that the image itself appears on the bathing suits of several of the bathers, creating an endless sense of illusion. The technique is resolutely contemporary, but the atmosphere it creates is timeless. “We were looking for emblematic locales in the French Riviera that evoked the joy of the holidays in the 1970s,” He continues. He chose the island of Porquerolles, one of the few well-preserved vacation spots left on the Mediterranean that maintain a sense of authenticity. Vitali’s image appears in a capsule collection consisting of a Moorea Swimshorts, see below, the house’s iconic model, and a tote bag. The elements in the landscape are transformed in layers of color that go from azure blue to verdant green and sandy beige.

Lou Dalton

Jeez where does the time go, we’re already half way through the year and yet another LC:M is upon us. It was promised to be the biggest, the best and drawing attention from all over the globe, now seen as a permanent and favourite fashion fixture on the style calendar, did it live up to expectations ?

Well things kicked off in a grand but intimate style. Grand in setting at the Shangri-La hotel, part of the AMAZING Shard building. Intimate, as Sir Paul Smith was in conversation with Deyan Sudjic of the Design Museum, discussing amongst other things, how he became Big in Japan and how he sustains that success.

Katie Eary

We then move into more traditional activities akin to LC:M and who said women can’t design Menswear, let’s first make it very clear, I certainly didn’t as two ladies of menswear definitely put that theory to rest this season. Both Lou Dalton & Katie Eary delivered the collections of their careers, to date. Both went for it in the colour stakes one a little more muted than the other but both like a multi coloured locomotive first stopping at the most stylish festival you could ever want to attend and then onto the tripped out, My Little Pony gymkhana.

Coach

But it wasn’t just the girls playing with colour for Spring/Summer 2016, a whole host of Shiny Happy People came out to play. Stuart Vevers over at US brand Coach mixed up animal prints with Fluro hues and managed the near impossible in doing it a desirable way. Then you had Henry Holland, for his first menswear outing for his House of Holland brand offering a straight to store exclusive to Selfridges. Unmistakably Henry and of course with a little help from his friends in the shapely form of Alexa Chung, Pixie Geldof, Daisy Lowe and new judge Nick Grimshaw.

Sibling

Keeping up the fun factor were urban collective Sibling, giving their unique take on Americana and Baartmans and Siegel with their take on the gritty open planes of North America.

Hardy Amies

Nevertheless, it wasn’t just about colour in London, the fashion capital is probably best known, thanks to its Savile Row heritage, for its tailors and their second to none tailoring skills. This was not only evident at the Jermyn Street Catwalk Show, showcasing the best in British brand including Turnbull & Asser, Jigsaw Menswear and Barbour. But outstanding collections were offered for our delectation by Gieves & Hawkes and Duchamp, on the traditional end of the spectrum and Richard James and Alexander McQueen on a more out there vibe.

Oliver Spencer

Now, I’m afraid I have some bad news for all of you guys partial to your skinny jeans, basically, bin them, chuck ,em out, throw them away as they are no longer in favour with the world of fashion. Actually, think the absolute opposite of skinny jeans. Everyone from TOPMAN, who used the 1970’s as their main source of inspiration. Patrick Grant for his E.Tautz brand chose to channel a more 1950’s silhouette and a slightly more restrained, utilitarian Oliver Spencer all opted for a loose fit.

E.Tautz

Lastly we have Belstaff and Christopher Raeburn who sort the height of masculinity as the backdrop for their collections, in that of military. Whether thats camouflage, used in that way that only Raeburn can manage to do or more desert force as Belstaff.

Belstaff

The Clothes-Make-the-Man team’s favourite shows from LC:M

Keanu Adorable, Contributor – Maharishi

“Maharishi was an experience, not only through the clothes, but also through the music. The mix prayer of chants and grime gave the pieces more context.”

Elliott Parsons, Contributor – Agi & Sam

“My favourite show has to be Agi & Sam. Their combination of utility and stylised layering with those lovely overcoats was unmatched in my opinion.”

Anthony McGrath – Editor – Katie Eary & Lou Dalton

“I’m sorry I can’t decide between to two ladies of British Mens Fashion. Both were equally colourful, fun and both turned the dial to maximum warp, in offering us the best collections of their career to date. Excellent ladies, keep up the good work.”

CLOTHES MAKE THE MAN

Go on spoil yourself, you know its worth it – Breitling for Bentley B06S

Milan Menswear Shows Hightlights – Spring/Summer 2016

Cleansing, an alien concept ? Clinique for Men NEW Charcoal Face Wash and Sonic System Deep Cleansing Brush

A Partnership made in Paradise – Vilebrequin and Massimo Vitali

London Collections: Men Highlights – Spring/Summer 2016

The Clothes-Make-the-Man team’s favourite shows from LC:M

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