CLOTHES MAKE THE MAN

In what has to be one of the most hotly anticipated collaborations for this season, we see Savile Row alnumi Gieves & Hawkes work with its Sackville Street neighbour Orlebar Brown. These two menswear colossi have drawn inspiration for their partnership from the pre-eminent Scottish explorer David Livingstone, yes, as in Dr Livingstone, I presume, Orlebar Brown has reimagined his meticulous hand-drawn maps onto a range of utilitarian clothing in an invigorating palette of navy, congo grey and limestone. Livingstone is one of the most popular national heroes of the late 19th century and owes his mythic status due to his pioneering expeditions and championing of multiple causes, from anti-slavery to social reform.

In fact a rather strange case of serendipity seems to entwine Dr Livingstone with the Savile Row Brand. When the public feared the worst for the explorer, Henry Morton Stanley was sent to find him by the New York Herald in 1871. Dressed in Hawkes & Co, Stanley found Livingstone alive and well, decked out in Gieves. Upon Livingstone’s death his body was returned to London to lay in repose at No.1 Savile Row – then the headquarters of the Royal Geographical Society – and since 1912 the home of Gieves & Hawkes. OMG !

The spirit of curiosity, exploration and discovery has been considered to provide practical functionality whilst remaining true to the precision and masculinity of Savile Row and these two brands.

The full ready-to-wear range includes a safari jacket, multi-pocket utility vest, cargo trousers, desert boots, along with T-shirts, swim shorts and, of course, because what expedition, whether that be to the Amalfi Coast or the Kalihari  desertpith helmet.

For us folk who live on these on these fair little Isles, unpredictable weather patterns and the uncertainty of what to wear is pretty much second nature. Nonetheless, it doesn’t make it any easier preparing for what the day ahead may have in store for you, particular in matters of a Sartorial nature.

With this in mind, Finisterre, the brand born out of answering the needs of hardy British surfers has for this season collaborated with Blackburn based, British denim specialists Cookson & Clegg to produce its first water repellent denim.

The brands first worked together last season on developing the Ovis merino wool blend jeans. For this season the two brands have brought together their collective expertise to continually push the boundaries of technical denim innovation by producing a product perfect for both the surfer and urban dweller alike. The new Anatis jeans feature a water repellent finish that not only mimics the way water rolls off a duck’s back without getting them wet, but are flurocarbon free and biodegradable. This finish wraps around textile fibres in a thin film that breaks surface tension, so that water droplets and mud simply run off rather than sinking in.

Jasper Conran is a designer who needs no introduction, not only does he come from one of THE most creative and artistic dynasties in living memory, well he was hardly going to become a bin man, when his Mum is Author, Shirley Conran and his Father is Design Guru Terence Conran. But he has carved a name out in his own right as one of Britain’s most well known Fashion Designers.
Celebrating over 30 years of the brand, he has since diversified from womenswear into menswear, fragrance, home, crystal, tableware and a diffusion clothing and accessories line. Continuing to expand his role in the world of design, he was recently appointed Chairman of The Conran Shop.

Conran was one of the first designers to collaborate on a high street collection with the launch of his diffusion womenswear line J By Jasper Conran – part of the Designers At Debenhams portfolio back in 1996.

For Spring 16 as part of his J by Jasper range and just in time for the all important Prom and Wedding seasons, he has introduced a micro collection of fine tailored single breasted suits which have been manufactured utilising cloth from one of Italy’s oldest and most respected mills Lanificio di Tollegno.

The heritage of this historic mill is second to none, it was established in late 19th century as a family run business and is still in operation today, due to a steadfast attention to tradition and continuing focus on innovation.

The mill, founded by the Sella family, has long been regarded as the hallmark of finest fabric production. It is revered as the last wool mill of its kind to still spin their own yarn. This wealth of skill and experience made Lanificio di Tollegno a natural choice for this collection.

The suits are each finished to an exceptional standard all with tonal linings and Columbia stitching with a very subtle pin dot pocket detail.

Conran commented on his new collection, “They will take you from a smart everyday business look to a special occasion depending on how you style them and whether you chose a 2 or 3 piece suit. The design of your shirt and the addition of a tie or pocket square can transform your look”.