Textual Conversation Archives - Page 9 of 11

Reflecting on things – Mark Powell in his Soho Store

Mark Powell, is somewhat of a modern day maverick, he can often be seen striding around the streets of Soho, almost resembling a great kindly monarch prevuing over his kingdom and acknowledging his subjects as he goes. Additionally, and in complete honesty, it has to be said Powell is one of London’s most iconic and influential bespoke tailors. Renowned for his nostalgical and classically inspired tailoring, combined with experimental cuts and styling, he was one of the first tailors to successfully bridge the gap between the traditions of Savile Row and modern street style.

Over the years he has dressed literally every leading zeitgeist celebrities including George Clooney, Harrison Ford, Mick and Bianca Jagger, David Bowie, George Michael, Bryan Ferry, Naomi Campbell, Tom Jones, Take That, The Kray Twins, Ant and Dec, Daniel Radcliffe, Usher, Frank Lampard, Morrissey, Neil Tennant from The Pet Shop Boys, The Killers, Paul Weller, Keira Knightley, Rupert Friend, Martin Freeman and Jonathan Rhys Meyers, now that’s what you call a celebrity rota and what you’d give to be at a party with all those in the room !

Away from all of this celebrity nonsense, Mark is a true craftsman and this has seen him work with everyone from Marks & Spencer to Mulberry in the past, who have sort him for his signature balance between true Savile Row tailoring and contemporary vision. Lets see what the man who is never short of a thing to two to say, makes of the questions from Clothes-make-the-man.com –

If you could have invented anything what would it be ?

Shoes, I love them.

If you had one day to live what would be your biggest regret ?

Only having one day left to live

What would be the one piece of clothing you would rescue from your home in the event of a fire ?

My brown double breasted alpaca and cashmere Ulster coat.

What inspires you ?

Great style, old Hollywood movies and Soho for its diversity.

Bunny Roger

Who is your style icon ? Why ?

Amongst many, one would be Bunny Roger for his neo-Edwardian style.

Tell us something no one else knows ?

Sorry, I can’t, it’s a secret.

What piece of style advise do you live by ?

Always wear a suit with a tie, can’t stand the current relaxed look without one.

Who would do you ideal diner guest and why ?

Ava Gardner because she was very beautiful and headstrong which I like in a person.

What piece of clothing best describes you ?

One of my bespoke suits because they’re unique, stylish and characterful, like me.

How did you get into the industry, what was your big break ?

I got into the industry from my personal interest in tailoring, people started to ask me where my suits were from so I started making them for them. My first big break was opening my first shop, Powell & Co. in Archer Street, Soho in 1985.

A young but still very dapper Mr Mark Powell

www.markpowellbespoke.co.uk

Is Christopher Raeburn the busiest man in Fashion at the moment ? Well, all signs and signals point to YES. As you read this post his Menswear Autumn/Winter 13 show for London Collections:MEN should be taking place, as he readied himself to present his womenswear collection next month, during the womenswear shows in London. Only last week it was announced by Victorinox, the creator of the Swiss Army Knife, that he has been appointed the Artistic Director of its Fashion Division. After they commissioned Raeburn to create a Remade in Switzerland capsule line for AW11. 2013 will see Christopher work with his brother Graeme, lead product designer with the Brilliant and uber trendy cycling brand Rapha, on a special edition capsule range for city cyclists.

He’s come a long way since appearing on a Fashion Design Reality TV Show, Project Catwalk. Launching in 2008, his collection was selected by the Imperial War Museum for their exhibition “Camouflage”. His signature collections consists of elegant outerwear for Men and Women which is made from decommissioned military stock, matching ethical values with cutting-edge design.

His Spring/Summer 13 Mens Collection is the embodiment of the two characteristics his designs have become known for: style and function. The collection demonstrated his commitment to supporting the British textile industry, this season features fabrics either sourced from London’s Crescent Trading or manufactured by Halley Stevenson of Dundee.

In he’s first interview since becoming the Artistic Director of Victorinox, the NEWGEN MEN and British Fashion Award winner, gives us an insight not only into his forthcoming AW13 collection but what makes Christopher Raeburn tick.

If you could have invented anything what would it be ?

Amazing question; maybe the Swiss Army Knife? It’s amazing to have invented something that so many people share an emotional relationship with and that’s so universally trusted and respected.

If you had one day to live what would be your biggest regret?

Not seeing the Northern Lights (yet); in fact not making it that far North in the world at all (or South). Not quite sure where my obsession with the bleakness and fragility of the Antarctic and Arctic comes from but I’d like to get to see them one day.

What inspires you?

Archeology, good design, animals, print, graphic, emotion, sport, colour, textures, happy accidents, travel, collaborations, provenance, technique, skill, aptitude, Inuit survival skills, BBC documentaries, Neil Young, pressure, age, reading, listening to people, teaching.

Who is your style icon? Why?

I always find this type of question tricky – I’ve realized that my icons have changed dependent on what I’m looking for or am interested in at that point. Steve McQueen has got to be up there but I’ve got a lot of admiration for Sir Ranulph Fiennes.

If you could give your teenage self advice, what would it be?

I wish I’d happened across Fischli and Weiss advise on work a little earlier so I’d probably ask myself to have a quick read:

1.Do one thing at a time

2.Know the problem

3.Learn to listen

4.Learn to ask questions

5.Distinguish sense from nonsense

6.Accept change as inevitable

7.Admit mistakes

8.Say it simple

9.Be calm

10. Smile

In your words, describe the collection ?

Strong, masculine, textured and rich in stories.

What was the inspiration for it ?

I’ve had a long-standing obsession with the Redsand sea forts; they were build during the Second World War to defend London. Essentially they’re seven giant metal towers that were towed out to the sea and then sunk to form defensive platforms; metal bridges connect them to one another. I’ve tried to design the collection imagining what it would be like to live in them today; we’ve worked a lot to bring interesting fabrics, techniques and detailing to the collection so that each piece really has it’s own story.

What are the key pieces in it?

I’m really proud of this season’s Pop-Out Parka; it’s a duel layer garment – the outer shell is constructed from 1950’s rubberized cotton capes mixed with foul weather trousers. We completely deconstruct the original garments and then re-work them into a new, limited edition piece – they all have the labeling “Remade in England”. Other key pieces include the Breton jersey range and the new accessories – we have some fantastic new rucksacks, satchels and hold-alls.

What track would always get you on the dance floor ?

Anything by Pulp, or Joy Division (although probably not everything). Am I allowed to say Fleetwood Mac?

How do spent your free time ?

Cycling is still a must for me and I’m keen on the odd challenge – last year I did the Welsh 3000’s (climbing the 15 mountains above 3000ft in 24 hours), basically I’m happy doing anything that gets me out and about.

What piece of clothing would you relegate to Room 101 ?

I was going to say shell-suits but couldn’t banish the 1980s childhood memories completely (rose-tinted spectacles I guess). Time and a place for everything I suppose.

If you could collaborate with one brand (Who you currently aren’t) who would it be and why?

I’m always keen to collaborate with brands where it can be a true partnership and make sense for both parties – John Smedley on Knitwear would be amazing. It’s also nice to think a little leftfield; Disney would be fun or I’d quite like to collaborate with a furniture designer or even product design.

What piece of style advise do you live by?

Layer up

Spring/Summer 2013 Christopher Raeburn Menswear

christopherraeburn.co.uk

About eight years ago while on a Press trip to Manchester I found myself sat next to the subject of today’s Textual Conversation. As the dinner progressed and the vino flowed myself and James Shaw started to discuss his new business idea and I proceeded to tell him he was mad for leaving his job and thinking about starting up a new clothing brand while we were in such a bad economic climate. I can categorically state I was 110% wrong, in fact I could not have been any wronger. This little brand, that in my tiny little mind was destined to fail has, to put it mildly, come on in leaps and bounds since it was founded in 2006, in fact Albam, to give this Great British clothing brand its correct title, was recently voted ‘Best for Men’s Fashion’ at The Telegraph’s Best Small Shops in Britain awards. Albam was built on a foundation of, “to make an honest product that is well made and that uses great fabrics”. This ethos has served the brand well and has earned itself the accolade of being THE most copied, sorry inspiring, brands of recent menswear history, from multi national designer houses to humble little high Street retailers, have used Albam as their inspiration in some way, shape or form for pieces or entire collections over recent seasons, whether they’d admit it or not.

The customer of Albam is equally diverse from Actors, Creatives, club kids, trendies or regular guys all loving a bit of what the label calls ‘Basics’ or what I would call foundation pieces. They, in my opinion, produce great, easy garments that lift whatever you’re wearing and make you feel good about yourself and what you’re wearing. As an independent clothing company, Albam are always looking for new ways to tap into their customers lifestyle, bringing them more of what they love: honest, beautifully-designed and well made products, whether that be the artisan services of barber extrordinaire Matt Raine aka Mr Natty or collaborating with mid century modern furniture website antikmodern.

Anyway, enough of me going on with oneself, lets hear from the man himself the co-founder of Albam, James Shaw;

What’s your favourite piece of clothing ?

I have three at the moment! A Western Mountaineering Down vest. Albam seamless T Shirts and a pair of Spellbound Jeans. My daily basics.

Who is your style icon ?

Cliché, but there is Steve McQueen (the actor) Simple American sportswear, great staples and just worn with his own edge. Not sure I would have liked to know him in person but he looked great. Royal Robbins (climber) looked pretty awesome when he climbed El Capitan back in the day and then nowadays I am not so sure. I like the idea that you wear the clothes rather than the other way round. Clothes should always be well made and great fitting, but I want to see the person and not the clothes first.

Can you tie a bow tie ? If yes, who taught you ?

I can after a few goes, my dad showed me many years ago and I just never have the opportunity to wear one regularly. They are fun but for me, speed is pretty important in the morning!

What piece of style advise do you live by ?

Keep it simple.

In your words, describe the collection ?

Albam AW12 has 3 points of view, which are relevant to the brand. We realized that we want different things daily and a single look/silhouette wasn’t particularly us as we live doing many and varied things. So we took this and created 3 spirits, all interchangeable but taking into consideration the basics of a wardrobe, great shirts, denim, T shirts, sweatshirts, work blazers and some technical outerwear and then looked to our sportier and more relaxed “white” label to bring in elements of sportswear whilst our “black” label brings to life some more fluid silhouettes, softer minimalism, maybe a Modern Crafted English silhouette. Honest, confident, a nod to the technical and a purity of thought.

Have you ever bought a piece of clothing and regretted it ? If so what & why ?

I bought a great Armani work jacket once, it was on sale for £50 and thought I must have it. I got it back home when I was living in Manchester and then sent it back. Twelve years later I regret sending it back, it would have been perfect for this winter!

In terms of regretting a piece because it wasn’t right, I have banished these to my Room 101!

What do you have to do after this conversation ?

Go for a run to wind down! I have cleared my inbox and my head is spinning!

What would you like to be doing after this conversation ?

Going for a run anyway, it keeps me in check with my headspace and creates a fluid energy that keeps my mind ticking.

What piece of clothing should everyman have in his wardrobe ?

Great jeans, for me at the moment anyway. Various stages of wear, Japanese denim, maybe some Albam in there for good measure!

What inspires you ?

Movement and the idea that we have to keep on moving on.

If you could have invented anything what would it be ?

Time, we all live by it, so that would have been fun!

Albam’s store on Bleak Street, London

Albamclothing.com

To say Marc Hare, aka Mr Hare, shoe designer, is a busy man and his time is truly not his own is a real understatement. This man must have more stamps in his passport then Judith Chamers, google her if your under 35. If he isn’t traveling the global, he’s proudly looking after his new shop on Stafford Street, just off Dover Street, London, like a new Father(see below), or he’s attending high brow events whether that be at 10 Downing St. to mark the Power List’s 20 most influential Black Britons or the British Fashion Council as he, “is quietly becoming one of the most important names in British menswear,” as the Guardian recently put it.

The genesis of Mr Hare is an interesting one, Marc had always been a little obsessed with footwear growing up on the mean streets of Croyden, for his eighteenth birthday he’d saved up and he was off to Bond Street to buy his dream shoes, Gucci Loafers. He noticed that when he worn these shoes peoples attitude toward him changed and they spoke to him with respect. Then after holding down a number of unfulfilling jobs in Marketing and Retail and losing one of those aforementioned jobs, breaking his leg and going through a divorce, remember bad things always happen in threes. He was sat in a Spanish restaurant, funnily enough in Spain, when he caught sight of the woven shoes worn by the señor at the next table, although the shoes weren’t prefect he did think with a few little tweaks they could be and with the help of Bally’s retired shoe genius, Siliano Salvadori, Mr Hare was born.

Now Mr Hare boasts such names as Javier Bardem, Ronnie Wood, Robert Downey Jnr, Tenie Tempah and Amir Khan as fan and customers and rumours of a venture into Ladies footwear abound. His recent collaboration with TOPMAN, literally sold out in minutes, where even Marc couldn’t get his hands on the highly desirable High Tops he created. But he still managed to find the time to answer the questions of Clothes make the man.

If you could have invented anything what would it be ?

A better work/pay/holiday/ tax system where people work less get paid more, are applauded for travelling and learning more about other cultures and where banks/governments had to actually pay for their own fuck ups or actually pay us interest when we lend them money.

If you had one day to live what would be your biggest regret ?

It would be all the time I had lost answering interviews.

What would be the one piece of clothing you would rescue from your home in the event of a fire ?

I would welcome the opportunity to re invent my wardrobe on the insurance money. I am too pretty and too smart to run into a burning house to rescue apparel.

What inspires you ?

Curiosity.

If you could only wear one brand/Designer for the rest of your life who would it be ? Why ?

Bauhaus. Because they were trying to just make the world better and the mix of modernism and traditional craft just created great products by default. I bet their sneakers would have been ill.

Who is your style icon ? Why ?

Margin Gaye, because he was just so talented no one was even paying attention to his clothes.

Tell us something no one else knows ?

I haven’t had a shave in 23 years.

What piece of style advise do you live by ?

Wear WTF you like and eventually you will figure out what works.

What do you have to do after this conversation ?

I have to go to sleep in a Bologna hotel room then get up early and fly to London for a concierges soirée.

What would you like to be doing after this conversation ?

Going to sleep in my own bed and getting up early to fly to somewhere hot and tropical for a concierges soirée.

What track would always get you on the dance floor ?

Hypnotise – B.I.G.

Who could resist? “If deh head right, biggie deh e’ry night !!”

mrhare.co.uk

So often the term genius is banded about to describe people, but today’s subject of Textual conversations really is a true genius within his industry, if you asked, literally anybody to name a hair stylist the name Trevor Sorbie is gonna be up there.

Sorbie comes for a long line of Barbers and his name is now synonymous with pioneering hairdressing throughout the Fashion industry. From barbershop to Buckingham Palace to collect his MBE in 2004, he is the hair stylist who has won more awards than any other. Having worked with the late Vidal Sassoon himself, he in turn has trained such noted stylists as Eugene Souleiman and fellow British Hairdresser of the Year winner Angelo Seminara.

I mean there can’t be many hairdressers, who can boast they have been the answer to questions on both Who wants to be a Millionaire & the Weakest Link.

As part of his ultra successful Male Grooming range Trevor has just launched the Deep Clean Shampoo which has been specifically formulated to remove product build-up and grease. Oil based styling products, such as waxes and clays, build up in the hair making it appear dull and can result in less effective cut when you visit your barber.

I know, surely you’d think he wouldn’t have the time to answer the ponderings of Clothes make the man, but yes, of course he made the time, the man’s a true gent.

How did you get into the industry, what was your big break ?

My father was a barber and suggested I become a hairdresser and the rest is history

Sorbie & the late Vidal Sassoon

1974 – creating the wedge cut for Vidal Sassoon

Who would do you ideal diner guest and why ?

Richard Branson for his innovative business ideas, he should be a PM one day

What piece of clothing best describes you ?

Scarf

Trevor collecting his MBE in 2004

The Mullet

What piece of style advise do you live by ?

Trying to keep modern but always matching my age

If you could have invented anything what would it be ?

The computer

Who is your style icon ? Why ?

David Beckham, keeps re inventing himself, especially in hair

Tell us something no one else knows ?

No matter what event I always attend, I still get as nervous, if not more so when facing an audience

Have you ever bought a piece of clothing and regretted it ? If so what & why ?

Yes many times which has normally been after a couple of glasses of wine

A true man of the cloth – Mark Powell

Nearly as handy as a Swiss Army Knife – Christopher Raeburn

Wham, Bam, Albam – James Shaw of Albam- Textual Conversation

The Rightful Hare to the Throne – Mr Hare

Cutting it fine – Trevor Sorbie MBE

Categories