This season sees the eighth London Collections:Men, somewhat of a testament to the standard, continual and ever increasing quality that has become part and parcel of the diverse showcase that now brings followers from the four corners of the globe.
However, a rather long shadow was cast on the last day of the proceedings, as we woke to hear the news that the thin White Duke, David Bowie, had been taken from us, all too early. Many of the creatives involved in LC:M cite Bowie as a great inspiration not only to their collections but to their career.
Moving on, this season we took the decision of rather than myself and the team giving you their opinions and musings on the shows, collections and trends that we witnessed for Autumn/Winter 16, we’ve decided to cast our net further and ask the views of some of the leading creative lights on what many believe to be the most creatively interesting city and Fashion weeks on the planet. We lets get underway. First off
“Edward Crutchley really stood out for me with a collection based on his Yorkshire roots. With a mix of beautiful traditional textiles and flowing oversize streetwear shapes I am excited to see what is to come next form this new face on the LCM scene.”
Eilidh Greig, Fashion Editor ShortList
“London Collections is going from strength to strength, and the diversity is reflected throughout LCM. If I had to choose one overall favourite show this would probably be Coach, a masculine collection that included reimagined and wearable but luxurious items influenced from the streets of New York and retaining a sense of individuality that makes the label one of my favourites at the moment.”
Gary Kingsnorth, Fashion Editor, Coach Magazine and Editor, www.thestyleking.com
“I really enjoyed JW Anderson’s show. The colour palette was pretty varied meaning you had camel and khaki green one minute, drifting into baby pink and off white the next. The outerwear was particularly strong with full length top coats in those aforementioned colours, as well as a brilliant, furry overcoat in pristine cream that looked like you could have crawled inside it and spent the rest of your life sleeping warm and soundly.”
Matt Hambly, Style Editor, Mens Health UK
“For me the highlight show of LCM this season was Dunhill. The setting of the presentation, a private members club in Mayfair, was a decedent backdrop for a collection of perfectly tailored evening wear, an innovative yet true to brand offering of daywear that is as much for the true Dunhill man as it is for new adopters of the brand. Dunhill, I think, even win the award for the best casting of the season.”
Dan Hasby Oliver, Editor & Founder of LastStyleofdefense.com
“1205 is my favourite collection. It wasn’t a ‘wow’ show in itself but every piece was just super wearable. It was understated and very versatile – you know you would just live in it”.
Jessica Punter, Style & Grooming Editor, British GQ
“Bullseye! LCM hit it right in the you know where this time round. So much “newness” – is that a word – and so much promise for the seasons ahead.
Charles Jeffrey and the MAN kids killed it for me.
But then I got to Margaret Howell (pictured) and I saw the familiar replayed and worked up into best-mate pieces you can rely on. Wardrobe wing men if you like: those two beautiful Argyle knits; the wide (but not too wide as to be silly) trousers and a duffle coat I want to have babies with.”
Richard Gray, Creative & Fashion Director, Sunday Times Style
“Topman goes 70’s grunge. Autumnal shades of oranges and brown. crushed velvet suits, velvet devore gowns, silk satin wide leg trousers. Cropped chevron print harrington jackets, printed silky longline shirts under grungy bobbly knits, faded shredded denims and Converse style footwear with slouchy beanies.”
Lee Holden, Leading Menswear Stylist & Image Consultant
“Ooh, tough. Could I have two. Margaret Howell and Christopher Raeburn?(pictured) Howell for never feeling the need to reinvent the wheel. Just beautiful, quality classics always calmly presented in her Wigmore St store. Styling macs that will keep you dry. Raeburn for taking military and not making costume. Even his finale showpieces were clearly referenced from military clothing.”
Marcus Agerman Ross, editor-in-chief of Jocks&Nerds magazine
“I really liked Katie Eary! (Pictured) Loved the prints and the pyjama robe combo.
And Richard James, it’s always a solid good show and I would wear most of the collection.”
Robert Konjic, Male Supermodel & LC:M Commitee member
“E. Tautz’s catwalk show at showcased an excellently put together collection drawing inspiration from 1980’s Edinburgh roller disco scene which maybe and unlikely source for a Savile Row Tailor, that didn’t phase Patrick Grant whatsoever”.
Harry Bradbury, Contributing Style Editor, Clothes-Make-the-Man.com
“The duo have done it again, with a more maturecollection continuing on from the past few seasons they have showcased. Agi Mdumulla and Sam Cotton let loose, literally, with a collection built on roomy silhouettes, elongated proportions, and rich Italian fabrics. Trousers were broad and swooshed as models paraded, while coats were rounded at the shoulder and roomy with utility pockets. The earthy palette consisted of mud brown, army green and navy – with minimal pattern, except for small checks that popped on a long coat with a shearling collar”.
Keanu Adorable, Contributing Style Editor, Clothes-Make-the-Man.com
OK so we come to my opinion, I think we saved the best for last as this has to be the season of Lou Dalton. She showed her signiture collection off, inspired by the Shetland Islands, a home away from home for Lou. Men, nature, history, and beauty all came together in the rich fabrics and practical designs. Silhouettes were slouched and unfussy, with baggy trousers and soft-shouldered, rich flannel outwear playing key roles. Always understated improves every season ! While this was going on her Collaboation with River Island’s Design Forum launched and if that wasn’t enough, this busy lady was launching another co-venture, this time for Autumn 16, this time with Jaeger.
