Milan Menswear Show Review SS14

As the sun sets on another LC:M for this season, its time to move out and move on, setting up camp in another style Capital this time it’s the turn of Italy’s Financial Capital, Milano. For Spring Summer 2014 the Italian houses seem to be in mixed moods, maybe reflective of the country wide mood, as the recession rumbles on and uncertainty is the mood du jour. So first we have some young blood who seem to be making waves in the right direction Les Homme. Continuing where London, left off and reflective of a number of their designers, Tom Notte and Bart Vandebosch of Les Homme blurred the lines of casual and formal and teamed leather t-shirts with suiting, formalised the shorts and bomber jacket all the time keeping the primary colour palette dark and sombre but highly wearable.

Calvin Klein Collection

Calvin Klein Collection

For Calvin Klein Collection, Italo Zucchelli, was all about 40 shades of blue, rather then the grey, which several of his fellow designers seemed to relish. Every hue of blue must surely have been used at some point during the show, offering, as always, his minimal, futuristic take on menswear.  Whether it be simply Navy, or Sky blue, Yves Klein blue, no relative, to Midnight blue they were all present as Zucchelli celebrates a decade at the helm of the good ship SS Calvin Klein.

Vivienne Westwood

Vivienne Westwood

Now as we mentioned in the London Show Reviews, I’ve sort the views of a number of Fashion industry soothsayers, for their opinion on their key shows and first of today’s viewpoints comes from British GQ’s Associate Editor, Mr Robert Johnston,  who has forgotten more about Fashion and style then many people will EVER know.

“I loved Vivienne Westwood. Fresh, fun and wearable while still being classic Westwood. The Indian prints took you to a chic Goan beach house mixed with the drama of a white evening cape for a modern mix of east meets west.”

Then onto an Italian Family Dynasty, who are hopefully putting the sad events of this year behind them to concentrate on more happier times. Missoni, who like many designers this season are opting for a more conservative, maybe even recession proof collection. Obviously it goes without saying the show wasn’t without the unmistakable family pattern evident on many of their key pieces, but this was made all the more wearable by mixing it with a much sober palette of navy, beige and sage.



And as almost to act as a colour interlude from all the darker tones of Milanese Designers, Prada should present to us their collection for SS14, but I will leave this to the more then capable Dan Rookwood, Style Director of Mens Health UK to expand upon.

“Every season the one show everyone expects the most from is Prada – and every season the fashion powerhouse more than meets those expectations. Prada’s HQ had once again been reinvented. This time we were transported back in time to a steamy 1950s tropicana scene. I got a sense of pre-Revolution Havana when the mob were running the casinos. All the models had been spritzed to look like they were glistening with sweat, mirroring some of those squished into the front row. The tiered seating was aqua blue like a swimming pool and the ceiling was sky blue like the, erm, sky. The models walked around the pool edge past a painted set of sunsets and palms. The colour palette was quite moody and muddy for a summer collection – burgundy, bottle green, khaki and navy – but was enlivened by bold, colourful Hawaiian print buttoned-up shirts and standout leather briefcases and overnight bags, festooned with tropical patterns. Trend-wise, we’re looking at a wider leg trouser worn with a casually tied canvas belt; generously-lapelled jackets with the sleeves turned up; and 50s-style shirts. The universal verdict: yet another Prada triumph.”



So from one great Stylish man to another, this time Fashion Director of American Esquire, the ever dapper and unflappable Nick Sullivan, give us his take on the iconic house of Gucci designed by Frida Giannini.

“Gucci was a breath of fresh air for me this time round. The glitzy side was played down in favour of a comfortable mix of romantic print and technical sportswear. Highlights were floral print cotton suits and a couple of others with simple dot prints reminiscent of pocket squares… The navy ones got my name on it. On the sports side I loved the bright yellow sailing top with its technical bonded seams and sone of the texhnical looking pants. To me the combination of romance and sport was unlikely but the sheer unadulterated quality of everything made it work just great.” 

Couldn’t have put it better myself fellas!



Italy are known for their great family Dynasties from the Borgias, to the Guccis, The Medicis to the Fendis and the latter house offered as a HUGELY wearable collection for SS14 to the point that I challenge you not to find a least one outfit that you wouldn’t like to purchase. The colour palette, the cut, everything about this collection just screamed WEAR ME ! From casual chic to fresh formal, it owned the Fendi man a complete wardrobe from dusk til dawn.



How to dress the part – AskAnt

This week’s AskAnt, covers a problem which will affect us all at some point in our life, that being what to wear for work ? But more importantly in this situation, what to wear to work for making that all important right impression. Just in case you were wondering, this isn’t a scenario I’ve just dreamed up, this week’s subject, has asked us to keep his identity anonymous, which of course is fine with us, discretion is my middle name, well it’s actually Thomas, but for the sake of today it’s discretion. So without further ado, lets get stuck in;

OK then, immediately sir your question reminds me of a wonderful piece that appeared in the Sunday Times Style at the end of January, entitled, “How to get a head in advertising”,written by the ever so talented and even more witty Richard Gray. He surmised that they guys who work in modern day Advertising and I would extend this to the general creative industries, tend to be sporting what could be classed as a uniform. A uniform ?  Pray tell, do tell more, essentially and this is a real generalisation but, these guys have taken to;

1) growing beards

2) wearing plaid (Checked) or Chambray (Denim) shirts

3) wearing Chinos

4) wearing brogues, oxford or a similar style hiking-esque boots in shades of brown

5) Certain brands are held in great esteem –  Albam, Grenson, Acne, APC, Margaret Howell, Oliver Spencer to name a few

So as always we strive to search the entire market to answer your clothing conundrum. Now the first great thing about this look is, it’s somewhat of a hardy perennial in menswear trends and has evolved over the last couple of seasons. I agree and appreciate you don’t want to appear to look as through you are a try hard. So immediately I would suggest, working in any new pieces you invest in with your existing work wardrobe. So maybe follow these simple steps to assimulating your new look into your office environment;

1) stop wearing a tie everyday with your suit

2) then start to wear your suit jacket with a pair of chinos

3) replace your plain simple work shirt with aforementioned all important check or chambray shirt

4) then start to wear it with a knitted tie

5) Start to wear a pocket square, not everyday, easy does it and as you grow in confidence let the pocket square flourish with you

6) Slowly, grow some stubble, but remember a beard doesn’t suit everyone, not everyone can bust a beard like Tom Ford, you, meaning me can end up looking little like Topol in Fiddler on the Roof (google it) or Zach Galifianakis from the Hangover. So if you don’t feel comfortable with it, don’t grow the fro.

7) A pair of brogues look equally as good with a pair of jeans as a suit

8) Fasten up your top button when your not wearing a tie, it’s OK it won’t make you David Beckham in the trendiness stakes but it does show you know your P’s & Q’s when it comes to the look.

Examples of how to do it

The King of this look, Oliver Spencer

The ever dapper Messer Nick Sullivan and Wendell Brown from US Esquire Magazine

Literally how to bust this look, J.Crew, God Bless you.

Tone it down slightly but Reiss is the word, on the street