Milano Moda Uomo (Milan Menswear Shows AW14)

 Ciao Ragazzi ! we follow on from the splendiferous LC:M of last week with what hopes to be equally captivating and awe inspiring Milano Moda Uomo. Unlike London the colour palette of our stylish Italian cousins seems to be of a more somber and some might say commercial and seasonally appropriate nature, that is apart from Prada, Versace ohhh and the Brit Dame Vivienne Westwood, more on that later folks.

First off  on our whistle stop round up on the Italian style capital is Ermenegildo Zegna, capably helmed by ex YSL Creative Director, Stefano Pilati, who was inspired by the fusion of City and Nature on a global scale. The city-scapes of New York, Shanghai or Milan where Zegna suits are common place, the mixing of casual elements with the formal cuts which Zegna has made its name in.

Ermenegildo Zegna

Ermenegildo Zegna

On a more ROCKIER tip was John Varvatos, who despite worked with  Black, Navy or white was channelling a very Glam rock vibe which culminated in Kings of Glam Rock “KISS” yes Kiss coming out to take a bow with the man himself.

Crazy, crazy night with John Varvatos(far right, just in case)

Crazy, crazy night with John Varvatos(far right, just in case)

Now over to a Dolce & Gabbana, who always love a theme for their shows and boy do they know how to put on a show ! Literally all we needed was good King Goffrey sat frow (front row, God get with it) giving his Royal approval to complete this Medieval Merriment. The duo paid homage to everything of this epoch and ensured more Game of Thrones then Spamalot.

Gotta say I loved the D&G balaclava, there I said it

Gotta say I loved the D&G balaclava, there I said it

And so from the King of ROCK dressing to what has to be the Queen of dressing Rock Stars, Donnatella Versace, who was in a Wild, Wild West mood, I think can only sum it up. No one could ever accuse Ms Versace of not having a sense of humour which is often lost in the Fashion industry, where people take themselves far too serious. 

Just off down the corner shop, does anyone want anything ? Yes, this was one of the more conservative looks.

Just off down the corner shop, does anyone want anything ? Yes, this was one of the more conservative looks.

Italo Zucchelli for Calvin Klein, drew on the Urban Explorer trend we are seeing rather a lot of this season, but also explored the heritage that made Calvin Klein so iconic using the names of three of their timeless fragrances in, Obsession, Eternity(my personal fave) and Escape to be emblazoned across some of its sweatshirts.

Calvin Klein

Calvin Klein

Now we all know I hate to start off on a negative and sorry for that Prada, but what was that soundtrack all about ? I needed some heavy duty Mexican painkillers for the headache after I left ! And have to say it did interfere with the enjoyment of the show, which was my favourite Prada collection of recent years. Trademark signature colours, which so shouldn’t work but so do, lil military detailing and a move away from that skinny-Malinke silhouette.

Prada

Prada

Penultimately we have the first show from Marc Jacobs since he parted company with Louis Vuitton to concentrate on his signature line. This is a man who knows a thing or two about Fashion design and this collection has to be one of his most commercial and wearable to date. Take away the styling details of the turn ups etc this a collection that every man with a modicum of taste will LOVE, honestly, I promise.

Marc Jacobs

Marc Jacobs

Ahhh and once again we reach the end of our non stop tour of some of the biggest names in men’s style and what better way to finish then with an Italian Super brand synonymous with style, class and excellent taste, of course, Gucci. While watching this show I couldn’t help thinking of two inspirations throughout it, firstly, obviously Frida Gianinni was draw towards the influences of London’s Swinging Sixties of Carnaby Street and the Beatles but secondly and somewhat more obscurely was the Hovis boy of the TV ad fame, sorry I know but couldn’t stop referring to him.

 

By'eck son it's None other then Gucci

By’eck son it’s None other then Gucci

What makes a Uomo – Uomo, the new fragrance from Ermenegildo Zegna

 

 

ZEN_FY14_Uomo_100ml_wBox

 

 

 

The House who produces the subject fragrance of today’s post are not only a mouthful to say but are the very embodiment of a fusion between tradition and luxury, Ermenegildo Zegna are one of the most renowned luxury menswear brands to hail from Italy. Founded in 1910 in Trivero, near the Italian Alps, a young Zegna dreamt of creating a renowned textile company using only the finest of materials. Today the company is still run by the fourth generation of Zegnas, the brand is available in over 100 counties globally and was the first luxury brand to venture into the Chinese market back in 1991.

Onto Uomo, the fragrance, this was developed by renowned master perfumer Alberto Morillas, who has created iconic scents for amongst others Calvin Klein, Giorgio Armani & Yves Saint Laurent. For this masculine fragrance, he went for an unusual combination of two ingredients, one from nature and one from Man. From nature there is the citrus of Bergamot, cultivated at the Zegna’s proprietary fields in Calabria, Italy. From Science floral Violettyne, this innovative molecule captures the purest essence of natural violet leaves but gives it an electrified quality, together they create an explosive combination.

This combination is then finished with a touch of elegance in Vetiver and grounded with the masculine tones of Cedarwood. The fragrance comes in a trio of grooming accessories completed with an after shave balm and a hair and body wash.