José Neves

The Subject of Today’s Buyer’s Guide is José Neves, the founder and CEO of farfetch.com, ohhh but please don’t think this is José’s only accomplishment, far from it. A seasoned fashion entrepreneur, Neves has long had the vision of bringing together his interests in technology and fashion to support the creativity and diversity of the international fashion industry. José has been involved in the fashion since the mid 1990s when he launched footwear brand SWEAR. In 2001, he went
on to open the world renowned b store in London, which in itself went on to receive numerous accolades and awards including the British Fashion Award for Retailer of the Year in 2006. Then, in 2008 he launched farfetch.com, a project which brought
together all his past experiences. Having learnt first-hand of the huge challenges facing a bricks and mortar retailer wanting to expand into the online space, Neves brought to them a single portal offering independent fashion boutiques and designers an opportunity to compete in the online arena with the leaders of fashion e-tail. Today, farfetch.com comprises of 250 boutiques, spanning a total  of 17 countries and delivers globally. We asked him to select his top 10 buys for the forthcoming season;

I’m always learning of new, emerging designers. Qasimi is a cool British brand that I’ve been wearing a lot of at the moment and has recently become stocked within our network of boutiques on farfetch. It fits perfectly without being overly tailored and the combination of colours gives it an informal, relaxed feel.

These timeless black trousers are given a completely modern twist with the drop crotch and turned up hem. Plus they’re linen so are bound to be an excellent purchase for hot summer days, to taking you seamlessly from a morning business meetings to evening drinks on a London terrace.

I expect my clothes to carry me from season to season and I like to invest in key pieces. This Balmain leather jacket is a wardrobe staple and perfect for ever changing climates as I travel from country to country. The colour of this piece is everlasting and will work with any outfit.

I travel extensively, often to another of our other global offices so it’s essential that my wardrobe serves me well. A lot of my shoes are from Swear, I like the brand because their products are both stylish and comfortable. This black leather boot is very versatile and works well straight off a flight and into the office. I love how the perforated heel and contrasting beige sole gives a modern feel to the timeless shape

I cycle around London all the time, so I need my backpack to be practical. This black leather Valas looks amazing with the multiple pockets; it’s great to throw over my shoulder and makes the ideal weekend bag

Nothing beats the iconic Wayfarer.

Denim shirts are a staple of mine, they’re easy to wear and they maintain their shape. I really like this shirt because the mandarin collar makes it different from most.

Constantly travelling, I always carry my iPad to enable me to work on the move. This sleek, leather case is great for holding my iPad and the zipped front pocket keeps all my travel documents together.

I really like this Walter van Beirendonck jacket with the matching shorts. I think they’d be great to wear together with a crisp white shirt or they’d also be nice separately. I’ve just got back from Marrakesh and this is what was missing from my wardrobe!

The shorts

]]> http://clothes-make-the-man.com/2013/05/21/the-buyers-guide-to-summer-2013-jose-neves-farfetch-com-2/feed/ 0 http://clothes-make-the-man.com/2013/05/20/what-makes-a-uomo-uomo-the-new-fragrance-from-ermenegildo-zegna/ http://clothes-make-the-man.com/2013/05/20/what-makes-a-uomo-uomo-the-new-fragrance-from-ermenegildo-zegna/#comments Mon, 20 May 2013 05:00:55 +0000 anthonymcgrath405 http://clothes-make-the-man.com/?p=5126  

The House who produces the subject fragrance of today’s post are not only a mouthful to say but are the very embodiment of a fusion between tradition and luxury, Ermenegildo Zegna are one of the most renowned luxury menswear brands to hail from Italy. Founded in 1910 in Trivero, near the Italian Alps, a young Zegna dreamt of creating a renowned textile company using only the finest of materials. Today the company is still run by the fourth generation of Zegnas, the brand is available in over 100 counties globally and was the first luxury brand to venture into the Chinese market back in 1991.

Onto Uomo, the fragrance, this was developed by renowned master perfumer Alberto Morillas, who has created iconic scents for amongst others Calvin Klein, Giorgio Armani & Yves Saint Laurent. For this masculine fragrance, he went for an unusual combination of two ingredients, one from nature and one from Man. From nature there is the citrus of Bergamot, cultivated at the Zegna’s proprietary fields in Calabria, Italy. From Science floral Violettyne, this innovative molecule captures the purest essence of natural violet leaves but gives it an electrified quality, together they create an explosive combination.

This combination is then finished with a touch of elegance in Vetiver and grounded with the masculine tones of Cedarwood. The fragrance comes in a trio of grooming accessories completed with an after shave balm and a hair and body wash.

Those clever lil sportswear designers at Adidas HQ wanted us to be able to express our own individual style, through the mode of Sunglasses. Sick of when the sun, finally, shows its almost forgotten face in these parts, being confronted with a sea of Aviator style and Wayfarer-esque sunnies. They took inspiration from everyday life. Thinking, how cool would it be to coordinate your sunglasses to every outfit in your wardrobe ? They drew inspiration from the latest trends, presenting fresh takes on the styles of the 50s, 70s and 80s-(I don’t know why they disliked the 60′s and 90′s)­‐ and a new concept rapidly emerged, paving the way for millions of combinations of customize eyewear.

The online configurator on the adidas Originals eyewear website allows you to give free rein to your creativity and design your own sunglasses. Mix and match temples, frames and filters according to your preferred shapes and colours. When your design is complete, you can view the final effect in the virtual mirror. All you need is a webcam. Alternatively, you can download a smartphone app. The virtual mirror helps you to quickly decide whether you have found the perfect style or need to experiment a little more.

Alexandre Mattuissi for Ami, has created a brand, which its fair to say, has become a destination for the Style Press and Retail Buyers alike. This range is essentially based on ‘les bords du Canal Saint Martin,’ or the area where the stylish Parisian crowd hangs out on summer nights. The 13 piece capsule collection consists of tailored blazers, jackets and trousers.

Ami EXCLUSIVELY for MrPorter.com

Alexander Wang‘s nine piece collection of t-shirts, sweats, varsity jackets, and leather bombers. He says of this collaboration,     “The exclusive collection for MR PORTER.COM includes some of my favourite styles from our ready-to-wear and T by Alexander Wang collections; these pieces are essentials in my everyday wardrobe. For this collaboration with MR PORTER, it felt right to make the selection really personal and effortless, by mixing ready-to-wear with T.”

Alexander Wang EXCLUSIVELY for MrPorter.com

Next up we have Beams Plus, hailing from the Uber Trendy Tokyo district of Harajuku, who from launching a menswear line in 1999 have grown to be a tour de force in their native Japan. This collaboration for Spring 2013 is based on the ‘Ivy Surf’ concept – collegiate meets the coast. The 6 piece capsule collection consists of polo’s, t-shirts, and shorts adorned with Japanese designer Palm Graphics’ signature palm surfer.

Beams Plus EXCLUSIVELY for MrPorter.com

Lastly, MrPorter.com and Raf Simons have come together to create an exclusive 13 piece floral inspired capsule collection for spring 2013. Hand-painted prints have transformed staples such as t-shirts and sweats, and formalwear including a blazer and white shirt, as well as hi top sneakers. Terry Betts, Senior Buyer of Mr Porter says of the collection,

“Raf’s use of colour and Kurt Cobain-inspired grunge florals combined to make his SS13 show one of our favourites.This exclusive project started from new, uniquely-painted watercolours which were transformed onto fabric and then used to create a 13-piece collection for MR PORTER. We are very excited to be collaborating with one of the most creative designers currently working in the industry.”

Raf Simons EXCLUSIVELY for Mr Porter

The “Surf Shack” range by Tommy Hilfiger

American surf culture was born in the 1960s,  the band the Beach Boys’ were hitting the Billboard charts singing of  “Surfin’ USA” , ahhh life was simple, fun, carefree. Rooted in California, the surf movement was more than a trend; it offered a new approach to sport, language, music and fashion – much of which remains true today.

For Summer 13 Tommy Hilfiger has taken inspiration for his limited edition “Surf Shack” range from the warm waters of Malibu, Australia’s Gold Coast ohhh and the more chilly Atlantic swells in Biarritz. It’s sunset drinks on the beach lit by  late-night beach bonfires and après- surf clambakes while the waves lap up at your feet. Surf Shack is about vivid living. It takes the surfers’ carefree charms and attitudes – deep tans, bright colors, boho attitudes – and adds a dash of preppy flair.

In support of Tommy Hilfiger’s ongoing partnership with the Art Production Fund (a non-profit organization dedicated to producing ambitious public art projects), the limited- edition collection is complemented by a series of unique surfboards, custom- designed by five American artists - Lola Schnabel, Richard Phillips, Scott Campbell, Gary Simmons and Raymond Pettibon – to create unique, custom- designed surfboards to complement the Surf Shack capsule collection. From pop-culture portraits to mystical abstracts and chalk-on-slate paintings, the artists have each applied their innovative, individual creative visions to the boards, which a limited number of the surfboards will be available for purchase at select Tommy Hilfiger stores worldwide, via tommy.com/artofsurf 

The Richard Phillips designed board

The Scott Campbell designed Board

The Raymond Pettibon designed board

Inspired by sports and outdoors brands, functional details with consideration for urban life were considered and incorporated into key outerwear items.  The collection has developed a sharp tailored look, and designed to be easy to understand and wear – items that form the foundation of a modern man’s wardrobe.

The name FOXHALL comes from the London Borough of Vauxhall and is probably best explained by Franklin himself,           “It’s a much earlier spelling of Vauxhall, the area of London that is amazingly not famous for the spectacular Pleasure Gardens found there for 250 years from the 17th to 19th centuries. Having lived in the area for quite a few years, I learnt more about them and they were an amazing centre of urban recreation – with spectacular energy, a diversity of people, a certain hedonism – everything that makes London such a great city today. I realised 350 years on not much has changed, and because Foxhall celebrates London’s urban fabric, I thought the Pleasure Gardens were a great inspiration for the brand story”.

For Summer 2013, the brand’s collection continues on its tip of offering contemporary ready to wear and accessories in the brand’s signature style. Key developments include summer separates; creating iconic staple designs which will continually evolve with the seasons to provide trademark capsule collections.

Inspired by the various pursuits of the urban lifestyle, each design is created with attention to detail providing form and function in equal measure. Consideration towards transitional design is encompassed within the collection, creating an easy to wear day to night wardrobe. Trends include the development of light outerwear, the Wren ¾ length raincoat and Catesby technical blazer are offered in performance Teflon-coated cotton, whilst high summer sees the introduction of style essentials: jersey shorts, pure cotton fitted vests and the new utility cargo shorts.

The first store opened at 20 Earlham St, Seven Dials Covent Garden, in August 2012 with the Autumn/Winter 2012 Collection. The webstore, foxhalllondon.com, opened for business in October, and ships Foxhall merchandise globally. Anyway enough of me, what has he got to say;

In your words, describe the collection? What was the inspiration for it? What are the key pieces in it?

It’s the complete urban wardrobe. The inspiration behind the label was the plain navy crewneck T – I didn’t know where to find a good one that was neither £20 nor £80 – rather somewhere in-between.  I asked all my friends and they didn’t know either.  I developed the idea and realised that menswear was missing a contemporary mid-price brand focusing on beautifully made wardrobe essentials fitted to a lean, body-conscious silhouette. The key pieces in our SS13 collection are the Catesby Technical Blazer – it’s a style you won’t find anywhere else, it uses technical Teflon-coated cotton with sealed-seams so it weathers wind and rain well, and it has a great sleek look that can dress smart or casual.  Then the Mayhew Light – a half-lined tailored cotton jacket, which is a perfect summer weight, which can be paired with the Symes tailored smart short – to make a very elegant summer short suit.  And finally the Bentham Light hooded cotton zip-through – a fitted, lightweight summer top in great colours that will be a comfortable holiday essential.  Those three themes comprise the Foxhall collection essentially – Urban Technical wear, Sleek Tailoring and luxe Jerseywear. The urban wardrobe covered. 

If you could collaborate with one brand (Who you currently aren’t) who would it be and why?

We’re into our second season and feel confident each design has been thoroughly considered. We are definitely keen to introduce, longer term, brand extensions including footwear, eyewear, technical sportswear etc. and will want to collaborate with the leading companies in their field. It’s more about working with these experts than specific brands but we’re definitely keen to align with these longer term.

Favourite hotel in the world?

Tough choice – probably between the Sukothai in Bangkok, the Raffles in Phnom Penh or the Oberoi in Agra.  Hotels that stand out need an exotic location, a concierge who can read you perfectly, a bar with its own atmosphere, a no-holds-barred breakfast and a pool area that feels like an event in itself – and each of those hotels delivers in all areas.

If you could live anywhere where would it be & Why ?

London is unquestionably top of the list. After arriving back from anywhere in the world, London is always a good place to land and call home. It’s the capital of the world for almost everything that’s important to me.

How did you get into the industry, what was your big break?

I got into the industry because I decided to leave Procter&Gamble. I had learnt how to build a brand, and wanted to build my own.  I saw the gap in the menswear market based on my own shopping experience, and felt that would be a good place to start. My big break, I think any entrepreneur would agree, was when my investors confirmed their interest in being involved with the project and the first day of the store opening was equally momentous– that’s when it became real.

What do you have to do after this conversation?

Finish the financial projections for our next 2-year business plan.  But, given it’s such a spectacular sunny day in London and they’re never to be taken for granted, I would like to be meeting a few people for long cocktails somewhere outside and park like.

What piece of clothing would you relegate to Room 101 ?

The chunky collegiate graphic hoodie. It’s been so remorselessly imitated and cheapened a thousand different ways. 

What piece of clothing should everyman have in his wardrobe?

At least 3 good white shirts – in smart, casual and summer variations. When it’s a quality piece it makes anything you wear with it look sharp. I have around 15 in my wardrobe but it’s the Foxhall ones that I wear the most now. 

What piece of style advice do you live by?

Buy expensive shoes.  Never gone wrong with that.

Who is your style icon ? Why?

Probably Vidal Sassoon.  He was so elegant in what we wore, and always dressed so effortlessly appropriately – I remember meeting with him on P&G Sassoon business on a cool-ish November morning in LA and he had just come from the gym and he looked so urbane – a fitted taupe leather biker, casual shirt and jeans – expensive and elegant but understated and casual – like he had made an effort, but not a big effort – as though it happened quite naturally, which for him I suppose it did. For me that’s the best kind of style.

Tell us something no one else knows?

My first-ever fashion week experiences were in 2001 in London and New York when Sassoon was still a big sponsor. I was really nervous about what to wear and what would be considered fashionable enough for fashion week. After much deliberation I just went for black from head to toe, and it totally worked. It didn’t stand out or make a bold statement but it worked, and I felt confidently a part of everything. That was the useful lesson that fashion week taught me.

FOXHALL LONDON SUMMER 2013 COLLECTION

Silva Fendi, the Creative Director of Menswear, Accessories and Childrenswear for the house wanted to complete the chic and carefree live of the Fendi man, with a fragrance which would reflect him and his embodiment of style and charm. The scent itself, is a bracing freshness of Tangerine from the offset, this is accompanied by Bergamot. Then a fresh and aromatic top note with Basil sets the tone in turn it is spiced with Rose Hips and Cardamom. This is completed with vibrant Geranium before melting into the powerful woody tonalities of Cedar from Texas.

For a racy and stylish scent of this nature, Fendi searched for a man to embody the true meaning of Fan di Fendi Pour Homme. They needed a man, a man of talent, whose style is world class and who shared a real synergy with Fendi. For this they opted for Mark Ronson, a recognised renaissance man who’s not only award winning but whose work stretches from artists as diverse as Bruno Mars, Rufus Wainwright, Duran Duran, the Late Amy Winehouse and the Royal Ballet. Whose family like the Fendi’s are both talented and creative.

Now with the 2013 Fair a distant, but fantastic, memory, we have the opportunity to look back at the event and unveil some of the finest, most luxurious and, quite frankly, jaw-dropping timepieces that were showcased at this year’s celebrity packed event.

All the world’s biggest watchmakers came out to play at BaselWorld 2013 with the likes of Rolex, TAG Heuer, Breitling and Hublot truly showcased why they are considered the world’s most revered and prestigious watchmakers.

The event had plenty of buzz about it prior to its commencement and, it’s safe to say, it definitely didn’t disappoint on any level with some breath taking luxury watches being unveiled to an eager throng of consumers who were lucky enough to score tickets to the event.

Switzerland is the spiritual home of watchmaking so it’s no surprise that the world’s leading names wait for BaselWorld to show off what they’ve had up their sleeves and will be releasing over the next few months. Courtesy of the chaps over at The Watch Gallery, we have some exclusive photos from this year’s BaselWorld event and prepare to be blown away by a horological master class from the likes of TAG Heuer, Hublot and Rolex.

So, let’s stop talking about BaselWorld and start looking at some of the watches that were unveiled at the event – safe to say, they were all pretty amazing.

TAG Heuer MikroPendulum Watch:

TAG Heuer MikroPendulum Watch

TAG Heuer Carrera Collection:

TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 1887 41mm

TAG Heuer Carrera Jack Heuer Edition

Hublot Masterpiece MP-05 LaFerrari Watch:

Hublot Masterpiece MP-05 LaFerrari

Rolex Stand:

Rolex stand at BaselWorld 2013 – 1230 square metres, six weeks to construct

Rolex GMT Master II

Rolex 36mm Day Date with Crocodile Strap

Rolex 50th Anniversary Daytona Platinum watch

Zenith Stand:

Austrian daredevil, Felix Baumgartner, helping to launch new range of Zenith Pilot watches

The watch worn by Baumgartner during descent to earth

As you can see, BaselWorld 2013 has seen some spectacular timepieces unveiled and some of the best are showcased above. With such an exceptional array of watches showcased at the event, excitement is already high over what the world’s leading watchmakers have got in store for BaselWorld 2014.

From Cow to Boot

Fancy a trip to the Dr Martens factory, to see a pair being made ? Yes I know, this may sound like Chinese water torture to some people but believe you me, you’ll never take shoes for granted or look at them in the same cavalier manner ever again ! So as I was saying I was LUCKY enough to take a little jaunt upt North, to Wellingborough, Northamptonshire. Not only the home to British footwear but the home to Dr Marten – land otherwise known as the Cobbs Lane Factory. After a brief history of the iconic DM footwear and how the Made in England range and a couple of bespoke collaborations are still created at the unique Cobb’s Lane factory, which has been producing footwear for the Griggs family since 1901. It is the home of the original Dr. Martens boot. Within these modest factory walls work a close knit family of people steeped in traditional shoe-making methods.

In and amongst the noisy industrial backdrop of pristinely preserved machinery is the unmistakable smell of freshly cut leather, here the familiar form of a Dr. Martens shoe or boot begins to take shape. The process takes the boot through various highly skilled stages of the creation process until its final arrival – laced up and spotless – in a box … ready for a life which no two pairs will have the same life experience (See the images below to see the process in action).

A piece of leather goes through a number of stages in the process to the finished article, but its life starts as carefully selected hides are stored in a small pile of just one week’s supply. They are then lifted – one at a time – on to the desk of the Clicker. This has long been one of the most prestigious jobs in a footwear factory. It is the Clicker’s task to cut the single hide into various component parts of the boot’s upper pattern; using just the right strip knife, the expertise lies in creating the minimum amount of waste while ensuring the finest sections of the hide are utilised. His knife also pricks marks in the leather to show where eyelets and seams will later be placed. To succeed to the standard required for a Made in England product, the Clicker needs experience, a steady hand and, above all, an eye for detail.

The thing a pair of Docs is probably most famous for is its air cushioned sole, this is produced using a granular compound that is melted and then injected into a mould which carries the distinctive “DMS” sole pattern and the Resistance Rectangle indicating that the compound is resistant to Oil, Fat, Acid Petrol and Alkali. When the soles have cooled, a felt strip is inserted into the cavity of the insole, followed by a comfort pad, both of which are placed by hand. The sole is then placed against the upper, temporarily joined at the toe and heel by “spotting” a hot blade between the welt and the sole ready for the real moment of inspired creation.

A highly skilled machinist places the upper and sole – which are now loosely sandwiched together – against a heated blade which is kept at 700 degrees centigrade. This blade goes in between the sole and the welted upper, melts the PVC of the sole and seamlessly fuses the two parts of the boot together.

All that is left is to finish the side wall of the sole with the distinctive Dr. Martens grooving, again done with great hand skill as the boot is pushed against a razor sharp spinning blade cut in the form of the instantly recognisable groove, and creating the two toned grooved sole edge.

With the plastic last finally removed, the finished boot gets a hand-polish and lace-up to ensure its all spick and span, before being boxed and readied for shipping to stores, literally around the world.

THE DR MARTENS PROCESS FROM START TO FINISH

The four jerseys are, the Maglia Rosa is the jersey worn by the leader of the time general classification. The Red Jersey is worn by the leader of the points general classification. The Blue Jersey, is the symbol of the King of the Mountain classification leader and finally the White Jersey is worn by the best young rider in the general classification.

In addition to the British designer’s signature on the jerseys’ collar, the left sleeves will bear the iconic Paul Smith stripes as the hallmark of his work. The race started on 4th May with the Grand Departure in Naples. The riders will then face 21 stages  finishing up on May 26th in Brescia. Paul said recently of this collaboration;

Then, we have the other European cycling powerhouse, The Tour de France, this year celebrating its centenary year and French Sports brand Le Coq Sportif have designed a unique jersey specifically for the 100th year of the tour. The 2013 yellow jersey or Maillot Jaune – is a symbol of this great, now international, bike race – brings innovation to the fore. The ever symbolic yellow of the jersey, even brighter this year, features a translucent « Moor’s Head » imprint on the main body of the jersey. This is a first, in recognition of the island – Corsica – which is to host the Grand Départ of the 100th Tour on 29th June.

Another special feature of this year’s race is the grand finish, which is to take place, for the first time, at night, inspiring le coq sportif to incorporate an array of reflective detail in the golden tunic.