Paris Menswear Shows Highlights – Spring/Summer 2016

Haider Ackermann

Haider Ackermann

And so to Paris, after the delights of London and Milan we have the city of Lights and what do they have instore for us with regard to Spring/Summer 2016 ???

Well straight off we have a couple of trends that were bubbling under, that have been confirmed via the French Fashion capital. Those being the old reliable Rock Star, no not Johnny Hallyday,  was very present and visible in the capital of LOVE. We saw Haider Ackermann and Ann Demeulemeester channel a more androgynous look whereas Maison Margiela,went for a more contemporary take on this perennial fave. The other trend that we saw peeking through in London through Christopher Raeburn and in Milan with Jil Sander and Alessandro Dell’Acqua’s No 21 was military, yes I know, what that again, but it was very different for past incarnations, much more contemporary, almost Explorer meets Military, an urban safari, one could say, done best by Balmain and Kenzo.

Balmain

Balmain

However, the overwhelming story from the Parisien shows was DENIM, and as we said last week fellas the Skinny jean is well and truly dead, RIP. The fit is far more wider, in the words of Shaun Ryder, “It’s gotta be a loose fit. Don’t need no skin tights in my wardrobe today. Fold them all up and put them all away.” Yep, from the AMAZING Louis Vuitton and Valentino to Maison Kitsuné and Paul & Joe. Denim in most definitely in for Spring 16 and in a big way. In fact the overriding look seemed to be rather reminiscent of 90’s band Stereo MC’s, yes them of the One hit Wonder “Connected”.

Louis Vuitton

Louis Vuitton

So from one extreme to the another, this time in the heavenly muse of the Priest, or to be more accurate, the trendy priest, think a little Fr Noel Furlong (Graham Norton) in Father Ted, he’s with it, he knows what’s down with the kids. No but the look of the ecclesiastical trooper was one in favour, reaffirming black is the new black. Riccardo Tisci’s new collection for Givenchy took great inspiration from his Catholic heritage, with Alexander Wang for Balenciaga and Christophe Lamaire for his signature label all following suit.

Givenchy

Givenchy

But black was far from the only colour to strike inspiration into the legion of designers showing in the French Capital, Berluti, the AMAZING Louis Vuitton, sorry have I memtioned how amazing the Vuitton show was ? Dior Homme, Paul Smith all opted for either splashes or full on in your face COLOUR.

Berluti

Berluti

Now this trend was an interesting one which we saw all over the catwalk shows from city to city to city, in London Coach probably pulled it off best in Milan Dolce & Gabbana offered us a menagerie of prints, but in Paris WOW ! Balenciaga, Dries Van Noten were in print overdrive, Lobsters (not sure why) Marilyn Monroe and Scary Spice’s fave animal print. But over at the house of Vuitton Kim Jones killed it, not only prints in many differing birds and wild cats. This is the way the 70’s should be done, SEXY,  forget the ugly 70′,s all Slade, lace and bad hair. Jones topped his show off with the help of a soundtrack supplied by Mr Chic himself Niles Rodgers !!!!!

So get yourself off now and invest in a Bomber jacket, a tasteful Hawaiian shirt, if that exists yet and some, at least, straight leg jeans in preparation for next Summer.

Dries Van Noten

Dries Van Noten

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1 Comment

  1. 02/07/2015 / 20:29

    Dear Antony,

    I came across this interesting blog accidently and I have added your blog link in my recent post on my blog.

    Have a great time.

    Regards

    R. Stephenson

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